CHAMPAGNE

JOHN GILMAN VIEW FROM THE CELLAR 92 POINTS-"It had been a few years since I last tasted a bottle of Agrapart’s lovely “Les 7 Crus” cuvée. The wine is really lovely, offering up a pure and complex bouquet of apple, tart pear, chalky minerality, citrus zest and fresh-baked bread. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a lovely core, elegant mousse, fine focus and a very long, zesty and perfectly balanced finish. This is one lower dosage bottling that is drinking with style and grace in its youth. 2016-2030."

ANTONIO GALLONI 93 POINTS - "A big, rich wine, [it] brings together the radiance and intensity of the vintage, with the freshness that is so typical of the Agrapart Champagnes. Today, the 2009 looks like it will also offer readers quite a bit more early gratification than is often the case. Almonds, pears, spices, mint and dried flowers are some of the notes that are laced into the finish. The Minéral emerges from old-vine parcels [in Cramant] the Champboutons and Les Bionnes lieux-dits. Dosage 5 grams/liter; disgorged June 2015."

PETER LEIM 2 STARS - "True to its vintage, this is forward and fruity, showing an ample ripeness. At the same time, it’s underlined by a piercing core of chalky minerality, turning more tense and pointed on the long, fragrant finish. It’s an excellent version of this cuvée, and a fine successor to the brilliant 2008. Last tasted: 11/15."

Brothers Arthur and Fabrice Agrapart have guided the rise of their family’s Champagne estate since 1984. Blessed with a patrimony of outstanding Côte des Blancs vineyard parcels (mostly Grand Cru rated) the duo has maximized the potential of their land through rigorous biodynamic viticulture practices and non-interventionist winemaking techniques. Their hard work and skill has resulted in consistently high critical acclaim and, as one would expect, a burgeoning fan base. While it is great to see the family’s dedication and hard work pay off, their success has caused our allocations to grow smaller with each new release. These latest vintage bottlings are in particularly short supply.

The Avizoise is made from Les Robards and Voie d'Epernay, fermented in neutral 600-liter barrels and bottled with four grams of dosage.

PETER LEIM 3 STARS-"From chalky soils in the vineyard of La Fosse, which Agrapart works entirely by horse, this is sleek and pure, with a silky texture and a racy, elongated build. Like Agrapart’s other 2010s, this is surprisingly rich and ample for the vintage, yet its energetic ripeness is firmly anchored by salty, briny chalkiness. It’s superbly complete for a non-dosé, already showing a nuanced complexity and subtle, graceful length, and it promises to become even more expressive with additional age. I’m not sure that there’s a better 2010 in all of Champagne than this one. Last tasted: 1/17."

PETER LEIM 2 STARS-"Half of this is from Les Champs Boutons in Avize and fermented in tank, while the other half is from similar terroir in Bionnes and Buzons in Cramant, just 100 meters away, and vinified in barrel. It feels unusually concentrated and ripe for the vintage, showing a subtle richness and depth on the palate, yet it’s held within a sleekly chalky frame, its salty, briny minerality increasing in intensity on the finish. It’s a superb edition of this cuvée, warranting at least another five to six years of post-disgorgement age to allow it to show its best. Last tasted: 1/17."

1 1/2 Stars ChampagneGuide.net-"Compared to Agrapart's 7 Crus, this is both finer in texture and larger in body-you see the influence of grand cru terroir not only in finesse but in puissance as well. It's intensely chalky under the silky notes of pear, green citrus and guava, anchored by vibrant acidity, and it feels fragrant and flowery on the long finish, demonstrating a superb balance and focus. Last tasted: 11/13."-Peter Leim

ANTONIO GALLONI 93 POINTS-"The NV Extra Brut Complantée Grand Cru is bright, intensely floral and lifted, with plenty of jasmine, white orchard fruit, chalk and white pepper overtones. Floral notes continue to develop into the finish in what is a very delicate and gracious Champagne. Even so, I would prefer to give the Complantée a bit more time in bottle, as it is compact and tightly wound today. As the name states, the Complantée emerges from a parcel planted with seven verieties that are authorized in Champagne: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc and Arbanne, all vinified together. The current release is a blend of 2013 and 2012 vintages done in tonneaux, with full malolactic fermentation. Dosage is 5 grams per liter." Disgorged June 2016.

This is a field blend of Pinot Noir, Meunier, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Arbanne and Petit Meslier, all harvested and pressed together. It’s rare to find these varieties planted in a grand cru terroir as exalted as Avize. Tiny productions. Extremely limites!

The Clos here is a walled old-vine Pinot Noir vineyard that is situated between the Clouet family's house and the cuverie at the base of the Bouzy ampitheater. Made entirely from this site the Clos de Bouzy is made only in exceptional years and is bottled exclusively in Magnums to ensure optimum development of time.

ANTONIO GALLONI 93 POINTS-"The 2006 is the first release of Clouet's Clos de Bouzy, a 100% Pinot bottled only in magnum. Considering the year and the richness of Pinot from Bouzy, the Clos de Bouzy is surprisingly bright and floral in its aromas and flavors. The Pinot is mostly felt in the wine's richness and texture. Dried pears, flowers, spices and anise emerge over time, but the 2006 is first and foremost a wine of subtlety. It will be interesting to see if the 2006 puts on additional weight in bottle. .Magnum only. (05/13)."

WINE ADVOCATE 90 POINTS-"Unfortunately I was only able to taste one new release from Andre Clouet this year. The NV Brut Grande Reserve emerges from the glass with layers of hazelnut, pear, spice and dried flower aromas. This rich, creamy wine impresses for its balance and sheer richness. I loved it. This is Lot L06. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014."(11/11)

Fashioned from 100% Bouzy and Ambonnay Pinot Noir form the 2009 and 2008 vintages with 30% of the base wine fermented in used Sauterenes barrels. The bouquet is open airy with inviting sourdough, yellow plum, citrus and Macintosh apple notes. This is a concentrated, but not at all ponderous, Champagne with a palate that features appetizing summer and citrus fruits seamlessly wedded to oak derived notions of honey, toast and brown spices. The low (6g/l) dosage works well here to keep everything lively while also letting Champagnes chalk and soil character to come to the fore. This intricately crafted Brut beautifully marries power and poise in way that one seldom finds at this low price point.

THE CHAMPAGNE GUIDE 95 POINTS-"'I say 10% of the blend is from my blood!' declares Jean-Francois Clouet, who has changed the style of his family's rose to a fresher and more direct mood, not so soft, aiming for the lively impression of malic acidity, even though it goes through full malolactic fermentation. The result is arose that epitomises elegance and focus, in the midst of generous red fruits that characterise Bouzy and Ambonnay. This cuvee encapsulates the wonderful talent of Pinot Noir to build and rise on the finish, opening to wonderful characters of perfumed rosehip, pink pepper and pomegrate. An undercurrent of fine, chalk mineral texture, accurate line and persevering length define a pristine and enticingly priced rose.

The wine shows a complex range of aromas from white flower to fresh fruit. The wine is long and refreshing in the mouth, balanced with underlying minerality. A vintage with a great aging potential.

Champagne Andre Robert was born in 1960 with the purchase of the Robert estate but winemaking goes back several generations in the family. Henry Robert, an officer during WWI, came back to a devastated land. Most of Champagne's vineyards were either war torn or disease ridden. With not much more than a horse, he acquired a small plot of land and nursed the vines back to health. Persistence paid off and in the 1930's, Henry founded the first wine cooperative in Champagne.

During WWII, Andre Robert, who was just a teenager at the time, joined his father and the horse. Toward the end of the 1950's, a tractor replaced the horse and Champagne Andre Robert's first commercial wines were released in 1962.

Bertrand Robert took over the property in 1981 after studying enology in Reims. Over the last three plus decades, he has remained committed to the principles that were first forged by his grandfather ninety years ago. No insecticides or anti-decay products are used. As if reciting a mantra from the French Revolution he proclaims, "We practice 'viticulture durable.' Respect the water, respect the earth, respect the air."

A member of the Independent Wine Producers Federation, Robert does not purchase any fruit and all of the wines are made on the estate. This may not sound like a big deal but while there are a lot of small growers in Champagne, the vast majority of the wines are made by very large houses that buy fruit and often use a variety of production facilities.

IMPORTER'S NOTES-"100% Chardonnay. Dosage 8 to 9g/L. Blend of 2009 and 2010 vintages. Located in the Côte des Blancs, Bertrand Robert's family’s plots sit on some of the most prized terroir in the world, much of it in the Grand Cru territory of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger. Aromas of yeast, apple, walnut and fresh bread complemented by hints of white flowers and acacia. Complex, subtle and pure, offering precise minerality backed by citrus, stone fruit, brioche and ginger flavors. Finishes long and with a chalky texture. It is hard not to be delighted by this bubbly’s fresh mix of white flower, acacia, and orchard fruit aromas. In the mouth this Champagne is vividly juicy and filled to the brim with ripe apple, white peach and nectarine flavors that are imbued with pervasive inflections of wet stones and seashells. The finish, which fades only with greatest reluctance, tantalizes with subtle glimmers of allspice, ginger and brioche.

The Robert family has been in the Champagne growing business for well over a century, but it wasn’t until 1961 that André Robert established the family’s own estate brand and production cellars. In 1997 André’s son Bertrand took over management of the operation. Today he farms some 27 acres split into dozens of tiny garden sized parcels. His vines average between 25-30 years of age with the lion’s share being Chardonnay planted in the Le Mesnil cru. Bertrand practices Viticulture Raisonnée, a protocol that emphasizes natural measures to control pests and rot with chemical treatments used only as a last resort. So once again, as we have seen with other top growerproducers, the quality of this Champagne is a natural outgrowth of family pride combined with generations of local knowledge along with a deep reverence for the land.

This is the hip ultra-luxury cuvee made by Cattier. It is packaged in a gold bottle with a pewter card-spade with an A on it instead of a label, giving rise to the nick-name ace of spades. It is a favorite of many musicians and has been popping up in celebrity circles and music videos. It is made exclusively from Premier and Grand Cru-rated villages in three different terroirs: Montagne de Reims, Vallée de la Marne and Côte des Blancs. The blend is 40% Chardonnay, 40%, Pinot Noir, and 20% Pinot Meunier.The original de Brignac name was registered by the Cattier family in the late 1940s or early 50s, according to Jean-Jacques Cattier. It was chosen at that time by his mother, who had been reading a novel featuring a character named de Brignac. In naming the new Champagne itself, Cattier states those involved came up with Armand, it sounded kind of noble.

Headquartered in Epernay, Aubert Et Fils Brut is a classic blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier that represent one of the best buys we have encountered from Champagne in a very long time. Pleasantly crisp with fragrant notes fruit and toasty aromas backed with hints of chalk dust and truffles. The generous palate proffers tangy orchard and citrus fruits that reveal a subtle minerality in the long-play finish. Balanced to work with or without food, this is simply a wonderfully crafted Champagne a fabulous price.

JAMES SUCKLING 92 POINTS-"A smooth, gently round and nicely balanced Champagne dominant in pinot meunier, pinot noir and chardonnay to boot. It has attractive lemon citrus flavors and is really punchy, refined and gently nutty. A smooth, pastry-like texture comes to the fore on the finish. Drink now."

WINE ADVOCATE 92 POINTS - "The NV Brut Premier Cru is a gorgeous wine, and a great introduction to the house style. Lemon, white flowers, mint, crushed rocks are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass as this refined Champagne shows off its impeccable class and total pedigree. The Premier Cru is 45% Pinot Meunier, 25% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and 5% Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Fromenteau. The high percentage of red grapes is felt in the wine’s breadth, while the aromas and flavors remain fresh, vibrant and beautifully nuanced throughout. This is a fabulous entry-level offering."

JAMES SUCKLING 95 POINTS-"A superb vintage rosé dedicated to the 2008 harvest, this has an impressively composed style. It's really smooth and supple building excellently and delivering a seamlessly composed impression. The aromas are of fragrant red cherries but in bright, fresh and gently spicy mode. The palate's precisely cut and has supple, tangy acidity underpinning some very pliable fruit flesh, a silky texture and a velvety finish. Impressive length and carefully delivered power here! Drink now and through to 2020+."

Crafted exclusively from the Grand and Premier Cru vineyards of the Montage de Reims, picked during the exceptional harvest of 2008. The blend is 51% Chardonnay (commune of Rilly-la-Montage) and 49% Pinot Noir (Verzy, Ay, Verzenay) The number 8 is very auspicious in China because Eight "Ba" in Chinese has a similar pronunciation with "Fa" meaning wealth or fortune.

WINERY NOTES-"A light shade of powder pink, clear and bright, with abundant bubbles. Subtle, it is fresh and refined, revealing delicate aromas of strawberries, raspberries, blood orange and blackcurrant. The attack is precise and sharp, leading to a subtle, tightly knit palate, featuring a lot of freshness and finesse. Notes of red berries and Bartlett pear, showing remarkable minerality through chalk and graphite notes. Delicate and fine, it is elegant with a sophisticated finish, like a finely crafted, mineral lace."

Champagne Bertrand Senecourt is an Epernay Champagne house that sometimes makes special cuvees, such as Beau Joie Special Cuvee Brut. The Champagne is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay and it is bottled in a distinctive 100% copper wrapper that Bertrand Senecourt says is inspired by the suits of armor worn by medieval knights. The copper “suit of armor” keeps the Champagne colder for longer periods, according to Bertrand Senecourt, and the copper wrapper is made from recycled copper. In 2012 Beau Joie Special Cuvee Brut was the official Champagne for the party held after the Grammys at the Chateau Marmont in Los Angeles. Other Beau Joie cuvees have earned compliments in Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar. Bertrand Senecourt is also the maker of the prestigious Charles Ellner Champagnes.

CHAMPAGNE GUIDE 95 POINTS-"Lahaye's aspiration here is richness and minerality and the wine delivers on both fronts empahatically. The power of the red fruits here is monumental, oozing with red cherries, red berry compote and fruit cake, accented with nutmeg and hints of cocoa. Such fleshy exhuberence commands structural support, which it offers abundantly in textured minerality, vibrant acid line and excellent lenght. This is a distinctive, characterful and beautifully crafted blanc de noirs that proclaims the exuberence of Bouzy without the heaviness that this village can sometimes exude."

Only the most dedicated and courageous growers would dare to practice biodynamic viticulture in a climate that is as cool and damp as Champagne’s. Benoit Lahaye is one of these brave souls, having been a practitioner of natural winegrowing since the early 1990s. Made entirely from 36-year-old Pinot Noir vines in the vineyard of "Les Juliennes" in the Grand Cru village of Bouzy, this very reddish rosé is effusively fruity on the nose, displaying deep aromas of just-squeezed strawberries and raspberries. The light (3 g/l) dosage and absence of malolactic fermentation work in concert to give the red berry flavors extra brilliance and intensity.

PETER LEIM 2 STARS-"This feels golden and rich without turning oxidative, remaining fresh and lively even with a significant percentage of old wine. There’s a brisk acidity under the voluptuous fruit, giving this a sleek tension, and it finishes with plenty of length and complexity, feeling open and inviting. Last tasted: 1/16."

ANTONIO GALLONI 92 POINTS-"The NV (2010) Rive Gauche is utterly beguiling from the very first taste. Dried rose petals, cinnamon, sage and mint are laced together in a Champagne of impeccable finesse and total class. Here it is the wine's nuance and detail that are most striking. The Rive Gauche is quite a bit more open than the Beaux Regards and nearly as compelling, although it is fabulous just the same. This bottle was disgorged in December 2013. Dosage is 3 grams per liter.

Rive Gauche is a pure Pinot Meunier from the vineyard of Les Misy in Port à Binson, near Mareuil-le-Port on the south bank of the Marne River. The Meunier vines in this north-facing, chalky-clay parcel were planted in 1969, giving the resulting wine an uncommon depth and resonance of flavor. "Meunier is great for its fruit," says Bérèche, "but it tends to be a little heavy. With these old vines, we get this concentration of fruit without overripeness, so it retains freshness as well." This was first made in the 2007 harvest, vinified in barrel with indigenous yeasts and without malolactic, and as with most of Bérèche's upper-tier wines today, its lees aging is carried out under cork rather than capsule.

PETER LEIM 3 STARS -"This is a blend of 70 percent Pinot Noir and 30 percent Chardonnay, with five percent red wine from the village of Ormes. It’s the second release of Campania Remensis, after the 2009, but it really has its origins in the Instant Rosé No. 1, which was a one-off cuvée that Bérêche made in 2006. The 2010 is a fine successor to these, and in fact, it ultimately surpasses both of them: it’s unbelievably elegant and lithe, complementing its subtly fragrant fruit with a silky, sophisticated texture, and its delicate flavors unfold on the palate with precision and grace. For all its charms, it’s an exceptionally discreet champagne, and one that’s easily overlooked—spend some time with it, though, and you’ll find a wine of unusual finesse, harmony and expression of place. Last tasted: 9/14."

The The Bérêche family farms 22 acres of vines in several different sectors of Champagne, with the three primary areas being the immediate vicinity around Ludes and Craon de Ludes (Montagne de Reims), the gravelly terroir of Ormes in the Petite Montagne, and the area around Mareuil-le-Port, on the left bank of the Vallée de la Marne. Small parcels in Trepail and Mailly complete the collection. Raphael Bérêche completely stopped using chemical herbicides in 2004 and has planted cover crops in all of the vineyards, and since 2007 a portion of the vineyard has been converted to biodynamics.

ANTONIO GALLONI 93+ POINTS-"Just disgorged a few weeks before my visit, the 2012 Extra-Brut Les Beaux Regards is another winner from Bérèche. The racier, richer side of Chardonnay comes through loud and clear in a wine built on density and creaminess. Lemon confit, wild flowers and spices are fused together in a deeply expressive Champagne to enjoy over the next handful of years. Another few months in bottle (at least) will only help. The breadth and power of the Montagne de Reims gives the wine much of its personality. Disgorged February, 2016. Dosage is 4 grams per liter."