CHAMPAGNE

JOHN GILMAN VIEW FROM THE CELLAR 92 POINTS-"It had been a few years since I last tasted a bottle of Agrapart’s lovely “Les 7 Crus” cuvée. The wine is really lovely, offering up a pure and complex bouquet of apple, tart pear, chalky minerality, citrus zest and fresh-baked bread. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a lovely core, elegant mousse, fine focus and a very long, zesty and perfectly balanced finish. This is one lower dosage bottling that is drinking with style and grace in its youth. 2016-2030."

The Avizoise is made from Les Robards and Voie d'Epernay, fermented in neutral 600-liter barrels and bottled with four grams of dosage.

PETER LEIM 1+ STARS-"It’s dark and stony on both the nose and palate, de-emphasizing its fruit flavors, yet it avoids the vegetal character typical of the vintage, instead feeling savory and strongly chalky even to the point of bitterness, albeit in an appealing way. It grows in intensity the farther back it moves on the palate, finishing with harmony and length. This is excellent, and it will be fascinating to see how it evolves with further aging. Last tasted: 2/18

Jacques Beaufort has long been one of our Champagne hero's. Back in the early 1970's Jacques was virtually alone leading the charge against the use of chemicals and herbicides and he has now been farming biodynamically for decades. Beaufort's approach to winemaking is equally stripped-down and non-interventionist. Such a strict, natural approach has its obvious risks, and over the years his Champagnes have been a bit "hit or miss" but his hits like this 2010 are often home runs. This is a bright, exuberant (dare we say hedionistic) Champagne that belies it Brut Zero configuration. The 2010 Andre Beaufort presents a delicate mousse and persistent bubbles, greeting your nose with pear, herbs de Provence and toasted hazelnuts. Expressive in character and bold on the palate, it culminates with a fine, zippy finish.

WINE ADVOCATE 90 POINTS-"Unfortunately I was only able to taste one new release from Andre Clouet this year. The NV Brut Grande Reserve emerges from the glass with layers of hazelnut, pear, spice and dried flower aromas. This rich, creamy wine impresses for its balance and sheer richness. I loved it. This is Lot L06. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014."(11/11)

Fashioned from 100% Bouzy and Ambonnay Pinot Noir form the 2009 and 2008 vintages with 30% of the base wine fermented in used Sauterenes barrels. The bouquet is open airy with inviting sourdough, yellow plum, citrus and Macintosh apple notes. This is a concentrated, but not at all ponderous, Champagne with a palate that features appetizing summer and citrus fruits seamlessly wedded to oak derived notions of honey, toast and brown spices. The low (6g/l) dosage works well here to keep everything lively while also letting Champagnes chalk and soil character to come to the fore. This intricately crafted Brut beautifully marries power and poise in way that one seldom finds at this low price point.

THE CHAMPAGNE GUIDE 95 POINTS - "I say 10% of the blend is from my blood!' declares Jean-Francois Clouet, who has changed the style of his family's rose to a fresher and more direct mood, not so soft, aiming for the lively impression of malic acidity, even though it goes through full malolactic fermentation. The result is arose that epitomises elegance and focus, in the midst of generous red fruits that characterise Bouzy and Ambonnay. This cuvee encapsulates the wonderful talent of Pinot Noir to build and rise on the finish, opening to wonderful characters of perfumed rosehip, pink pepper and pomegrate. An undercurrent of fine, chalk mineral texture, accurate line and persevering length define a pristine and enticingly priced rose."

WINERY NOTES - "Generous and plentiful foam, with numerous strings of tiny bubbles. The nose is very powerful, dominated by aromas of fruits in pastry, stewed apricot, with frank notes of sugared almond. Slight notes of pepper and aniseed. On the palate, the feeling is very ample and long, with remaining pastry feeling, ending on a spicy note."

A rich yet subtle blend ot 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay all sourced from the firm's plantings in the Grand Cru village of Ay. The blend is based on the 2013 vintage with 20% cask aged reserve wines. The wine as given a dosage of 9 grams per liter after aging on the yeast for 15 to 18 months.

WINERY NOTES-"The base wine for this Old Vines Champagne comes from our plots, Pierre Robert Haut, Tarclett, and Varmery. The vines are on average 45 years old, which is important for the selection of the plots, as each plant produces a third less than a younger plant. Hence a higher aromatic potential and an optimum maturity at harvest time. The primary aromas are typical of a Pinot Noir from Ay: blackcurrant, small red fruit, in the nose and on the palate, with a spicy note at the end of the tasting.These aromas have evolved with the second fermentation, dominated now by juicy fruit, such as white peach and stewed lemon. Despite a lively attack on the palate, this wine feels round, vinous, frank and well structured, long on the mouth without being heavy. This is a wine for lovers of varietal wines, the opposite of a blended Champagne."

Headquartered in Epernay, Aubert Et Fils Brut is a classic blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier that represent one of the best buys we have encountered from Champagne in a very long time. Pleasantly crisp with fragrant notes fruit and toasty aromas backed with hints of chalk dust and truffles. The generous palate proffers tangy orchard and citrus fruits that reveal a subtle minerality in the long-play finish. Balanced to work with or without food, this is simply a wonderfully crafted Champagne a fabulous price.

The 2012 Brut Ivoire et Ebène is another fabulous wine in this range. Powerful, ample and resonant in the glass, the 2012 is superb from the moment it is first poured. Baked apple, pear, smoke and spice fill out the wine's voluptuous frame, with a hint of French oak that add complexity without being overpowering.

JAMES SUCKLING 92 POINTS-"A smooth, gently round and nicely balanced Champagne dominant in pinot meunier, pinot noir and chardonnay to boot. It has attractive lemon citrus flavors and is really punchy, refined and gently nutty. A smooth, pastry-like texture comes to the fore on the finish. Drink now."

WINE ADVOCATE 92 POINTS - "The NV Brut Premier Cru is a gorgeous wine, and a great introduction to the house style. Lemon, white flowers, mint, crushed rocks are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass as this refined Champagne shows off its impeccable class and total pedigree. The Premier Cru is 45% Pinot Meunier, 25% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and 5% Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Fromenteau. The high percentage of red grapes is felt in the wine’s breadth, while the aromas and flavors remain fresh, vibrant and beautifully nuanced throughout. This is a fabulous entry-level offering."

The Bara property was built in 1860 in Bouzy, perhaps Champagne's most esteemed Pinot Noir village, thanks its warm, south-facing slopes. In the beginning, the estate was a farm with stables, a cow shed, and a cellar, However, in 1965, the barn was transformed into a press room and a winery. Paul Bara, the father of today's owner Chantale, was the first of the dynasty to sell Champagne under the family's name in the 1950s and he was also one of the first grower producers to export its his wares to the U.S. Crafted only from exceptional exceptiona harvests, the firm's Millesime is fermented in tank without malolactic and is aged on the yeast for at least five years. Clearly one of the great successes of the excellent 2012 vintage.LA REVUE DU VIN DE FRANCE comments: " A full and spherical expression of Pinot Noir (90%). A good classic vinified in VAT, taught, yet harmonious."

Every once in a while a champagne comes along that you can judge like you would a a great wine. Paul Bara's Comtesse Marie de France, their finest, is such a Champagne. The nose is expansive, deep, and ravishingly complex. The palate is rich and winey and incredibly long. Stock up. These don't happen very often. —Kermit Lynch

WINE & SPIRITS 92 POINTS

VINOUS 90 POINTS - "Light yellow-gold. Intense, mineral-laced aromas of blood orange, dried pear and anise, with a suave floral quality gaining power with air. Chewy and precise on the palate, offering bitter pear skin, redcurrant and honeysuckle flavors plus a suggestion of buttery brioche. Finishes sappy and long, leaving notes of toasty lees and orange pith behind.

WINE SPECTATOR 90 POINTS - "Smoky, with rich hints of lightly charred toast and nut providing a subtle base for the flavors of plum, candied lemon zest and chalk. Firm, offering a creamy texture and smoky mineral details on the finish."

This exquisitely crafted champagne is derived from a mix of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay, perfectly balanced to create a Rose champagne that is one to be consumed when celebrating a special occasion. Light crisp taste, which is fresh and fruity, with the color of delicate rose petals.
The copper casing of both the Brut and the Rose were inspired by the suit of armor worn by the knights of the palace. They are crafted from 100% second generation scrap copper and each bottle is recycled after consumption. So why the copper in the first place? Believe it or not, it’s not just bling it actually helps save energy and keeps the temperature of the wine stabilized while it’s being consumed without the use of an ice bucket.

Champagne Bertrand Senecourt is an Epernay Champagne house that sometimes makes special cuvees, such as Beau Joie Special Cuvee Brut. The Champagne is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay and it is bottled in a distinctive 100% copper wrapper that Bertrand Senecourt says is inspired by the suits of armor worn by medieval knights. The copper “suit of armor” keeps the Champagne colder for longer periods, according to Bertrand Senecourt, and the copper wrapper is made from recycled copper. In 2012 Beau Joie Special Cuvee Brut was the official Champagne for the party held after the Grammys at the Chateau Marmont in Los Angeles. Other Beau Joie cuvees have earned compliments in Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar. Bertrand Senecourt is also the maker of the prestigious Charles Ellner Champagnes.

Benoit and Valérie Lahaye registered their property as completely biodynamic in 2003, quite a big decision in such a marginal climate. Their vines cover eleven acres mostly in the Montagne de Reims villages of Bouzy (Grand Cru) and Tauxières (Premier Cru) with the balance situated in the Cote de Blancs hamlet of Vertus (Premier Cru). As one would suspect, Lahaye, with their Bouzy holdings and dexterous biodynamic farming, makes a striking Blanc de Noirs. The wine has been aged 20% in tank and 80% in vat with lees stirring to add even more depth while ample ageing further rounds things out. This is 100% Pinot Noir bottling was disgorged in October 2017 with a 5 g/l dosage.

Only the most dedicated and courageous growers would dare to practice biodynamic viticulture in a climate that is as cool and damp as Champagne’s. Benoit Lahaye is one of these brave souls, having been a practitioner of natural winegrowing since the early 1990s. Made entirely from 36-year-old Pinot Noir vines in the vineyard of "Les Juliennes" in the Grand Cru village of Bouzy, this very reddish rosé is effusively fruity on the nose, displaying deep aromas of just-squeezed strawberries and raspberries. The light (3 g/l) dosage and absence of malolactic fermentation work in concert to give the red berry flavors extra brilliance and intensity.

A blend of 35% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, and 30% Pinot Meunier drawn from the family's organically farmed vineyards in Ludes (35%), Ormes (30%), Mareuil-le-Port (25%), and Trepail (10%). The 2015 vintage makes up 65% of the cuvee with rest being a reserve mix from older vintages. it was dissgorged in January 2019 and topped with a with dosage of 7g/l.

JOHN GILMAN 92 POINTS-"2009 was the first vintage of Rosé that bore the new name of “Campania Remensis” on the label. The cuvée now takes its name from the Latin term for the countryside outside of Reims 40 that was used during Roman times here. The wine all hails from fruit grown in the village of Orme on the Petite Montagne, with the cépages sixty-five percent Pinot Noir, thirty percent Chardonnay and five percent red still wine (again Pinot Noir). The 2013 Campania Remensis was disgorged in March of 2017 and was showing beautifully a year out from its disgorgement, offering up a very refined and pure nose of strawberries, white cherries, a touch of orange zest, chalk and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is crisp, full-bodied, elegant and marvelously balanced, with a good core, fine focus and grip, lovely, delicate mousse and a very long, complex and vibrant finish. First class Rosé! 2018-2035."

JOHN GILMAN 92-93 POINTS-"The Beaux Regards bottling is made entirely from estate-grown Chardonnay from the Bérêche family’s vineyards in their home village of Ludes. This had only been disgorged in January of 2018 and was still a bit unsettled in mid-March, but the underlying quality here was still quite apparent. The complex bouquet offers up scents of pear, lemon, chalky soil tones, a hint of buttery oak, fresh almond and white flowers in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, long and elegant in profile, with pinpoint bubbles, a good core and fine length and grip on the very well-balanced finish. The precision that this wine will eventually display was not in evidence after the fairly recent disgorgement, and for that reason I scored the wine in a range, but I would fully expect it to snap into exact focus with a bit more bottle age (it probably has already done so) and rate at the top of my range. It seems likely that the 2014 Beaux Regards will blossom completely a bit ahead of the 2013 Rilly bottling, but this again, could just be an impression caused by its more recent disgorgement. 2018-2035+.

JOHN GILMAN 92 POINTS-"The soon to be released version of Bérêche et Fils non-vintage “Brut Réserve” is going to be excellent. The wine is its customary blend of one-third each of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, with the wine having been disgorged in January of 2017. As is typical of this bottling, one-third of the blend is reserve wines and the finishing dosage was 6.5 grams per liter. This is really a lovely wine in the making, offering up a youthful and classy bouquet of apple, pear, chalky soil tones, brioche and just a whisper of buttery oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and focused, with lovely mousse, excellent balance and grip and a long, zesty and nascently complex finish. A superb non-vintage bottling. 2018-2035. (07/18)

PETER LEIM 1 1/2 STARS-"It's ample in body, its creammy notes of stone fruits, orange citrus and green apple underlind by stony minerality, and it finishes with excellent length and depth." This is made of roughly equal parts Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier, and 70 percent of it was vinified in barrel. The base wine is a blend of the 2013 and 2014 vintages. It was disgorged in January of 2017 with a dosage of 7 grams per liter.