We were lovestruck by the magnificent 2021 Petra Unger "Reid Gottschelle" Gruner Veltiner Erste Lage Reserve. This Gruner comes from a high plateau of ancient terraced vineyards in Austria's Kremstal region, in the village of Furth, along the Danube River near the entrance of the Wachau Valley; home to Austria's finest white wines. The winery stretches out towards the foothills of the historical Benedictine Göttweig Abbey established in 1072.
Soil at the Reid (single-vineyard) Gottschelle, is calcareous loess covering a mighty layer of gravel conglomerate from the last Ice Age. Harvest was at the end of October, picked by hand and finished in stainless steel.
Petra Unger is the winemaker and manages the 27-acre winery which her father, Dr. Wolfgang Unger, began in 1987. She studied Viticulture at the University of Vienna and completed an internship at a winery in Napa Valley. Petra took over the family business in 1999, and has quickly earned a name for herself. She practices organic farming, supporting a biodiverse ecosystem in harmony with the vines. No pesticides are used. Instead, Petra allows for a symbiotic relationship between the vines.
Unger has been lauded with many awards, and this vineyard is bestowed with the designation of "1OTW", which in Austrian wine terms, stands for "Erste Lage," or Premier Cru.
All rankings aside, the truth is in the glass. This is a stunning example of elegance, purity, and power, and is by no means a wimpy white. Showing a clear light straw color, the wine has aromas of green apple, snow peas, minerals, lemongrass, and papaya. A fascinating array of flavors comes forth, with notes of lemon pith, passionfruit, nectarine, papaya, and fresh herbs. There is a lovely wave of acid rolling through, along with a bracing finish that only makes you long for more.
The critics unanimously agreed!
WINE ADVOCATE 94 POINTS - "Petra Unger's 2021 Ried Gottschelle 10TW Gruner Veltliner shows a clear, subtle nose with fine and elegant fruit and soil notes. It gives a rather cool impression. Delicate and elegant on the palate, this is a medium-bodied, balanced, juicy and stimulatingly saline Veltliner with Riesling character and impressive length and substance. It's a truly remarkable wine with lots of potential. 13.5% stated alcohol. Screw-cap closure. Tasted in Grafenegg in September 2022." - Stephan Reinhardt.
FALSTAFF MAGAZINE 94 POINTS - "Medium yellow-green, silver reflections. Delicate meadow herbs, fine yellow apple fruit, a touch of apricot and tangerine zest. Powerful, nuances of white pome fruit, delicately spicy, a touch of anise, greengage and apricots, juicy, pleasant freshness, white fruit on the finish, lemony touch, good persistency, certain ageing potential." - Peter Moser.
JAMES SUCKLING 93 POINTS - "Plenty of green-pepper, green-bean and fresh-herb aromas are married to a fleshy yet focused palate. This has a positively grainy quality on the palate, which gives it a lot of interest. Impressively long finish with an excellent interplay of creaminess and fine tannins. Drink or hold. Screw cap." - Stuart Pigott.
WINE ENTHUSIAST 91 POINTS - "Well-knit and minerally-tasting, with lots of stone and sea salt before the flavors of apple, peach and raw cashew come out. It is fuller-bodied, yet shows grace and finishes with seductive notes of spice and oolong tea." — Aleks Zecevic
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