Fourny’s Brut Rosé is so adaptable thanks to the harmonious blend that fifth-generation brothers Emmanuel and Charles execute so masterfully. They take equal parts Chardonnay, grown on chalky slopes, and Pinot Noir from steep, red clay parcels and craft an homage of sorts to their village’s ancient roots. Vertus, a once fortified town in the Middle Ages, used to be a Pinot Noir outpost, planted almost exclusively to the red grape. Today, the Côte des Blancs is well known for its racy blancs de blancs, but Fourny’s exquisite rosé, akin to a transparent red with a fine bead, boasts an identity all its own. The wine is both lively and mineral, as you’d expect given the Fourny house style, but comes enhanced with a festive fruit profile—cranberry, sour plum, and blood orange. If you’re looking for a Champagne to carry you from apéritif, through the main course, and into dessert, Fourny’s Rosé is the one. KERMIT LYNCH WINE MERCHANT, Jane Augustine
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