The nose is subtle, with little to no nose-prickle. Immediately fresh and fruity notes (green bananas), overtaken by sweet tar and heather root. Some salt cod, iodine and intense fragrant smoke, with lemon juice and white pepper. Crisp oak; light vanilla. A drop of water freshens things: sea breezes, beach seaweed, drying fishboxes. Then it all settles, with light toffee and charred old wood. It is medium bodied. The palate has good texture; drinks very well at full strength. For its age, very light and simple in structure. Broader and richer than the nose and showing mature spicy notes (nutmeg). A solid, quince-like, sweet start is followed by Szechuan pepper and some salt. Water brings out the sweetness after a while, with an almost liquorous feel. A perfect balance develops between apricot Danish pastry and all enveloping smoke. Highly complex. The acidity on the nose is not evident on the palate. Finish: Slow, sweet, generously warming and richly sustained. Fine smoky chocolate gives way to charred oak wood in a drying, waxy peat-rich conclusion.
Overall Rating
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