JOHN GILMAN 92 POINTS - "Readers may recall that when I visited Aurélien Suenen in his cellars in Cramant back in the spring of 2015, he was just starting work on these single villages bottlings from the base year of 2013, as he has Chardonnay holdings in the villages of Cramant, Chouilly, Oiry and Cuis. The Oiry is the first of these wines to be released, which is made entirely from his production in the
village, so as to highlight the village’s terroir more in the finished wine. This was fermented entirely with indigenous yeasts (this is the first vintage to be entirely native yeasts, as he has been building up his yeast population in his cellars, given that his father before him used commercial yeasts, so that his 2012 wines were a combination of the two). The wine was finished with a dosage of one gram per liter and offers up a deep and complex nose of apple, nutskin, fresh-baked bread, complex soil tones, gentle smokiness and a nice touch of fresh nutmeg in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full and nascently complex, with a fine core of fruit, lovely soil signature, elegant mousse and a very long, poised and impeccably balanced finish. This is a lovely wine and probably the first I have ever tasted that is produced entirely from Oiry fruit. It is very approachable today, but it is still a young wine and should be even better with four or five years’ worth of bottle age. 2017-2040."
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