Having supported the Grower Champagne movement for more than a quarter century, we are naturally pleased that so many more of our customers are choosing Champagnes made by family farmers instead of by multi-national conglomerates. Lately, however we are growing concerned that too many of the younger growers have become believers in the dogma of slashing or eliminating dosage in all instances. This practice has resulted in a deluge of shrill, frankly unpleasant fizz. Still in his mid-thirties, vigneron Maxime Ponson has worked at his family's Champagne estate since 2011 and he has run the operation since his father, Pascal Ponson's, suddenly passed away in 2018. Maxime is a passionate organic farmer and minimalist winemaker but he is one that rejects current trends by wisely applying appropriate levels of dosage to add equilibrium and drinking pleasure to his cuvees. It is worth noting that despite all the hype, extra-brut and non-dosed Champagnes still make up less than 2% of the Champagne world.
The Ponson family vineyards are situated in the La Petite Montagne sub-region (located directly east and south-east of Reims) and are scattered among seven different communes all of which are rated Premier Cru. While the family grows excellent Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, their Pinot Meunier is particularly expressive and dominates this "Prestige" Brut 1er Cru. Based on the 2016 vintage the "Prestige" is a blend of 80% Pinot Meunier, 10% Pinot Noir, and 10% Chardonnay. After aging a minimum of three years on its lees, it received a moderate dosage of 10 grams per liter, lending to its rich and textured style. This wine displays a brilliant straw-yellow core and a swirl reveals creamy aromas of red and yellow apples, lemon blossom, honeysuckle, and hazelnut followed by hints of chalk and wet stones. The wine's rich flavors match its bouquet, but deliver an added layer of dense and creamy fruit, giving it a textured, yet ethereal feel-that's the power of ripe Meunier. Most Pinot Meunier Champagnes are generally built for early consumption and this beauty is absolutely ready to open now, although it will drink well over the next several years. We would be remiss if we didn't also mention and applaud Maxime Ponson's very down to earth pricing policy. Do yourself a favor and compare his "Prestige" Brut to your favorite fifty-dollar Grand Marque. We think you might just find a new House Champagne.
The Ponson family vineyards are situated in the La Petite Montagne sub-region (located directly east and south-east of Reims) and are scattered among seven different communes all of which are rated Premier Cru. While the family grows excellent Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, their Pinot Meunier is particularly expressive and dominates this "Prestige" Brut 1er Cru. Based on the 2016 vintage the "Prestige" is a blend of 80% Pinot Meunier, 10% Pinot Noir, and 10% Chardonnay. After aging a minimum of three years on its lees, it received a moderate dosage of 10 grams per liter, lending to its rich and textured style. This wine displays a brilliant straw-yellow core and a swirl reveals creamy aromas of red and yellow apples, lemon blossom, honeysuckle, and hazelnut followed by hints of chalk and wet stones. The wine's rich flavors match its bouquet, but deliver an added layer of dense and creamy fruit, giving it a textured, yet ethereal feel-that's the power of ripe Meunier. Most Pinot Meunier Champagnes are generally built for early consumption and this beauty is absolutely ready to open now, although it will drink well over the next several years. We would be remiss if we didn't also mention and applaud Maxime Ponson's very down to earth pricing policy. Do yourself a favor and compare his "Prestige" Brut to your favorite fifty-dollar Grand Marque. We think you might just find a new House Champagne.
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