ANTONIO GALLONI - VINOUS - 97 POINTS The 2023 Riesling Graacher Dompropst Trockenbeerenauslese, made in used barrique with exactly 225 liters of must, offers sultana and dried fig with a touch of creaminess and candied lemon peel lift on the nose. The luscious palate is immensely sweet, concentrated, bright and very fine. An elixir of Riesling with 16 g/L of acidity and more than 300 g/L of sweetness. ***
Trockenbeerenauslese (say “TROCK-en-bear-en-OWS-lay-zeh,” or just “TBA”) is the rarest and sweetest style of German Riesling.
The name means “selected dried berries,” and it’s literal. Late in the season, a beneficial mold called botrytis, or “noble rot,” attacks some of the grapes. It pokes tiny holes in the skins, so the water evaporates and the grapes shrivel almost into raisins. What’s left inside is intensely concentrated sugar, acidity and flavor.
Pickers go through the vineyard by hand, often several times, choosing these shriveled berries one by one. It takes an enormous amount of fruit to make a small amount of wine, sometimes a single worker’s whole day for just one glass. The grapes only develop this way in certain years, so many vintages produce no TBA at all.
In the glass, TBA is golden to deep amber and tastes like honey, apricot, dried peach, marmalade and caramel. It’s very sweet, but Riesling’s natural acidity keeps it from feeling heavy or cloying. It’s usually low in alcohol (often 6–8%).
It’s typically sold in half bottles and is expensive because so little is made. It ages beautifully for decades. Serve it with blue cheese or foie gras, with a fruit dessert, or just on its own as dessert.
In short, it’s liquid gold: one of the world’s great dessert wines and a real treat for a special occasion.