ERIC RODEZ BRUT CUVEE DES GRANDS VINTAGES AMBONNAY GRAND CRU

PETER LEIM 2 1/2 STARS-"Rodez's prestige cuvée is made of 70 percent Pinot Noir and 30 percent Chardonnay, all vinified in barrel without malolactic. It's always a complex blend of vintages: the youngest wines in this edition are from 2004, which make up 30 percent of the total, while the rest come from 2002, 2000, 1999, 1998, 1996 and 1995. It's silky and lithe, its complex and richly fragrant aromas of strawberry, raspberry and exotic citrus feeling voluptuous yet sleekly polished, driven by an urgent undertone of chalk and finishing with long, subtly detailed length. At 4 g/l of dosage, it's expressive and complete in its depth while remaining tautly focused, and it promises to become even more expansive and seamlessly harmonious with additional post-disgorgement age. Last tasted: 2/13."