JAMES SUCKLING - 92 POINTS A powerful and compact dry riesling for 2021, the pithy tannins supporting the generous body. Fascinating interplay of herbal, lime and crisp pear character with the bright acidity. With aeration it develops an incense note. From biodynamically grown grapes. Vegan. Drink or hold. Screw cap. Stuart Pigott.
WINE ADVOCATE 90+ POINTS The 2021 Ruppertsberg Riesling Village is in fact the second wine of the grand crus Hoheburg and Gaisböhl and based on rather younger vines. It opens with a pure, fresh, elegant and stony bouquet of bright fruits and crushed stones. Savory and juicy on the pure and saline palate, this is a full-bodied and tight dry Riesling that is still a bit astringent, with fine bitters on the citric and saline finish. 12% stated alcohol. Screw-cap closure. Tasted in November 2022. Stephan Reinhardt.
"2021 is a classic German vintage," says Steffen Brahner from Burklin-Wolf, remembering the cool spring with its late flowering. The summer months brought abundant rainfalls, which challenged the vineyard crew, as even more attention and precision with the vegetation was required than in a dry year. "On the other hand, after three consecutive dry years, the periodic rainfall did the soils of the Mittelhaardt good to compensate for the pronounced water deficit." A similarly wet autumn forced them into meticulously early negative selection, and then they proceeded on a vineyard-by-vineyard basis in order to achieve the ideal ripeness of the grapes. This obviously paid off, and Burklin was able to harvest healthy, ripe and flavorful grapes in all of the vineyards. When I tasted the premier and grands crus for the first time in August this year, I was still a but reserved since the wines were dense and compact but also still caged in their phenolic grip and firm structure. Some months later, in November, the wines had slightly opened up and showed promising qualities, especially in the Kirchenstück, which is again one of the most magnificent dry Rieslings produced in Germany that year. Unfortunately it is very rare and highly expensive, Pechstein and Ungeheuer are more highlights of the 2021 vintage. I also took the chance to taste the 2020 crus, which come from a much warmer and sunnier vintage represented in full-bodied, rich and concentrated but also structured and in the best cases—Pechstein and Kirchenstuck again—also tensioned wines. As always when tasting the young and the previous vintage side by side, the sympathy is with the younger. Time will reveal which is the greater vintage: the lean and classic or the richer one.
WINE ADVOCATE 90+ POINTS The 2021 Ruppertsberg Riesling Village is in fact the second wine of the grand crus Hoheburg and Gaisböhl and based on rather younger vines. It opens with a pure, fresh, elegant and stony bouquet of bright fruits and crushed stones. Savory and juicy on the pure and saline palate, this is a full-bodied and tight dry Riesling that is still a bit astringent, with fine bitters on the citric and saline finish. 12% stated alcohol. Screw-cap closure. Tasted in November 2022. Stephan Reinhardt.
"2021 is a classic German vintage," says Steffen Brahner from Burklin-Wolf, remembering the cool spring with its late flowering. The summer months brought abundant rainfalls, which challenged the vineyard crew, as even more attention and precision with the vegetation was required than in a dry year. "On the other hand, after three consecutive dry years, the periodic rainfall did the soils of the Mittelhaardt good to compensate for the pronounced water deficit." A similarly wet autumn forced them into meticulously early negative selection, and then they proceeded on a vineyard-by-vineyard basis in order to achieve the ideal ripeness of the grapes. This obviously paid off, and Burklin was able to harvest healthy, ripe and flavorful grapes in all of the vineyards. When I tasted the premier and grands crus for the first time in August this year, I was still a but reserved since the wines were dense and compact but also still caged in their phenolic grip and firm structure. Some months later, in November, the wines had slightly opened up and showed promising qualities, especially in the Kirchenstück, which is again one of the most magnificent dry Rieslings produced in Germany that year. Unfortunately it is very rare and highly expensive, Pechstein and Ungeheuer are more highlights of the 2021 vintage. I also took the chance to taste the 2020 crus, which come from a much warmer and sunnier vintage represented in full-bodied, rich and concentrated but also structured and in the best cases—Pechstein and Kirchenstuck again—also tensioned wines. As always when tasting the young and the previous vintage side by side, the sympathy is with the younger. Time will reveal which is the greater vintage: the lean and classic or the richer one.
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