Wasenhaus is a minuscule estate-little more than a handful of old-vine parcels-run by two Germans who met years ago while working in Burgundy. Tiny production aside, the wines are nothing short of jaw-dropping. One taste is usually enough to spark obsession, and word spreads fast; today, finding these wines in meaningful quantity is nearly impossible.
Alex Gotze and Christoph Wolber focus exclusively on old vines and historic clonal selections, working with a minimalist hand: whole-cluster basket pressing followed by élevage in neutral old barrels. Their Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) pushes the grape far beyond familiar territory, redefining what it can be.
The Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder) from the Mohlin site comes from a steep, terraced limestone vineyard in a cool side valley, planted in the 1950s, and it delivers true grandeur. The 2022 shows striking purity and a racy, saline core, with taut tension, layered citrus, and a focused, persistent finish that resonates long after the last sip. Light yellow in the glass with flinty aromas, and garden herbs. The palate is young, snappy, compact, and quite taut, reduced entirely to the mineral limestone content.