We are pleased to announce that we have just received two of Maison Taittinger's finest Champagnes directly from a European cellar with impeccable provenance. The quality of Taittinger has risen markedly lately as these new arrivals will attest. This trend can be traced back to 2008 when Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger was able, after a three-year struggle, to buy back his family's Champagne operation from Miami's Starwood Capital Group. In this era of rampant multinational corporate takeovers, it is a rare and welcomed event when a family succeeds in buying back their long-held business.
At the time of the family buy-back, a commitment was made to emphasize the best, most fruit -expressive juices, which are found in the "cuvée" section of the press, in order to burnish the vibrancy and longevity of the finished Champagnes. Under the direction of Managing Director Damien Le Sueur, an eco-friendlier approach has been taken in the vineyards. As he explains: "Our philosophy is to be sustainable and to add less and less products in the vineyards, but we are not dogmatic about an organic approach." Grasses are now planted in mid-rows of more than 80% of the firm's 800-plus acres of vines and ploughing is the preferred method of weed control. The company employs more than 700 pickers and purposefully pays them by the hour, not by volume, which is rare in Champagne. As Le Sueur notes, "We explain to them what we want in terms of quality and tell them to be selective." A myriad of other quality tweaks were instituted. Le Sueur's mindset is both zealous and meticulous as he says: "We have to be extremely focused on quality, to adapt continually and to question our practices every day. Details, details, details!"
Taittinger's resurgence has been most evident with their recent string of critically acclaimed vintage Bruts. This 2016 release could be their best ever. It is a boffo blend of 50% Cote des Blanc Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims and Vallee de la Marne. 70% of the sourcing is from Grands Crus and the rest Premier Crus.
DECANTER 97 POINTS - "(50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay). Outstanding elegance and finesse pervade this exceptional wine with its well-honed toasty sourdough, gunflint and grilled citrus notes, razor sharp acidity and mouth-filling mousse. Brilliantly poised and brimming with potential, the long and zesty finish runs and runs. Alcohol 12.5%."
At present this vintage has yet to be reviewed by the American wine press but our staff was instantly smitten. We found this eight-year-old to be very fresh and lively as it delivered crunchy, purely rendered apple and pear fruit, that was framed and embellished with snappy, salt-tinged acidity in its remarkably long, resonate finish. A word to the wise- very little Taittinger vintage Brut makes it to our shores; and what does, is mostly reserved for the restaurant trade. So, if you wait for the American reviews, you risk missing out on this elusive beauty altogether.
At the time of the family buy-back, a commitment was made to emphasize the best, most fruit -expressive juices, which are found in the "cuvée" section of the press, in order to burnish the vibrancy and longevity of the finished Champagnes. Under the direction of Managing Director Damien Le Sueur, an eco-friendlier approach has been taken in the vineyards. As he explains: "Our philosophy is to be sustainable and to add less and less products in the vineyards, but we are not dogmatic about an organic approach." Grasses are now planted in mid-rows of more than 80% of the firm's 800-plus acres of vines and ploughing is the preferred method of weed control. The company employs more than 700 pickers and purposefully pays them by the hour, not by volume, which is rare in Champagne. As Le Sueur notes, "We explain to them what we want in terms of quality and tell them to be selective." A myriad of other quality tweaks were instituted. Le Sueur's mindset is both zealous and meticulous as he says: "We have to be extremely focused on quality, to adapt continually and to question our practices every day. Details, details, details!"
Taittinger's resurgence has been most evident with their recent string of critically acclaimed vintage Bruts. This 2016 release could be their best ever. It is a boffo blend of 50% Cote des Blanc Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims and Vallee de la Marne. 70% of the sourcing is from Grands Crus and the rest Premier Crus.
DECANTER 97 POINTS - "(50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay). Outstanding elegance and finesse pervade this exceptional wine with its well-honed toasty sourdough, gunflint and grilled citrus notes, razor sharp acidity and mouth-filling mousse. Brilliantly poised and brimming with potential, the long and zesty finish runs and runs. Alcohol 12.5%."
At present this vintage has yet to be reviewed by the American wine press but our staff was instantly smitten. We found this eight-year-old to be very fresh and lively as it delivered crunchy, purely rendered apple and pear fruit, that was framed and embellished with snappy, salt-tinged acidity in its remarkably long, resonate finish. A word to the wise- very little Taittinger vintage Brut makes it to our shores; and what does, is mostly reserved for the restaurant trade. So, if you wait for the American reviews, you risk missing out on this elusive beauty altogether.
