Just inland from the chaos of Naples, Taurasi is one of the most idyllic and historic wine regions in Italy. Winemaking has been a popular thing to do since at least 800 B.C. in this elevated hill-country formed by ancient volcanos. Today, this is prime territory for Aglianico, an ancient red variety known for making some of the finest, quintessentially Italian wines with bold structures, wild and savory aromas and an appetizingly dry finish. It might have been a different story if not for the heroic efforts of Antonio Mastroberardino, who championed traditional grape varieties, and helped to lift his home region out of obscurity.