It is rare, indeed, to find a Champagne farmer with the patience to yeast-age a Champagne in bottle for more than a decade, especially one from a such a highly sought-after vintage like 2008. This grower tête de cuvée is fashioned entirely from old vines situated on the steepest south-facing slopes of the Aÿ Grand Cru. It sports a pale gold hue and offers up a complex, fully developed bouquet of Queen Anne cherries, candied apples and assorted bakery smells. This is a prodigious Champagne that displays a toned opulence featuring a broad core of dark and savory Pinot fruit (tempered by the inclusion of 30% Chardonnay), melded with ripe citrus and sumptuous brioche flavors. Hardly cheap, but a great value nonetheless.
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