One of the Montagne de Reim’s brightest young stars is Alexandre Chartogne who is headquartered in the once overlooked village of Merfy situated about four miles north of Reims. Alexandre once worked with famed Champagne cult vigneron Anselme
Selosse (his "wine father") and he applies many of Selosse’s methods in his vineyards and cellar: an emphasis on healthy soils, reduced yields and a very hands.off approach to wine making.
In recent years he has gained fame himself, especially for his single parcel bottlings. These limited-production gems are unfortunately divvied out to the trade with eye droppers. More plentiful and much more affordable is Chartogne’s nifty "Sainte Anne" cuvée which he blends as an expression of the whole village of Merfy. This latest iteration is a mix of 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 10% Meunier with 50% drawn from the 2018 harvest and the rest from reserve stocks. Pale straw color with a fine bead, the nascent nose opens slowly to reveal inviting red apple, peach and baguette scents. In recent years Alexandre has upped the use of oak to 80% in the elevage which has contributed an additional layer of flavor as well as a sense of gravitas.
On the palate the wine is medium-bodied, with focused orchard fruits, key lime and roasted almond notions lifted by bright acidity and topped off with a haunting minerality. A wonderful bottle that will only get better with a little more cellar rest. Honestly, we can’t think of a better Champagne for under fifty dollars.
JOHN GILMAN 92+ POINTS - "Alexandre Chartogne’s Sainte Anne bottling hails from several different lieux à dits in Merfy and is fermented in stainless steel tanks, with indigenous yeasts and the current release is comprised of a fifty-fifty blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The current release is excellent, offering the tactile seriousness on the palate that is the calling card of all of Alexandre’s wines that I have had a pleasure to taste so far, along with superb, racy structure and impressive nascent complexity. The bouquet is a blend of apple, white peach, complex minerality, gentle brioche, white flowers and a bit of high-end smokiness. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, young and beautifully focused, with a rock solid core, great cut and grip, very refined mousse and outstanding length and grip on the primary finish. This is still very early days for this superb wine, so tuck it away in the cellar for at least a couple of years and let it blossom. Fine, fine juice."
In recent years he has gained fame himself, especially for his single parcel bottlings. These limited-production gems are unfortunately divvied out to the trade with eye droppers. More plentiful and much more affordable is Chartogne’s nifty "Sainte Anne" cuvée which he blends as an expression of the whole village of Merfy. This latest iteration is a mix of 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 10% Meunier with 50% drawn from the 2018 harvest and the rest from reserve stocks. Pale straw color with a fine bead, the nascent nose opens slowly to reveal inviting red apple, peach and baguette scents. In recent years Alexandre has upped the use of oak to 80% in the elevage which has contributed an additional layer of flavor as well as a sense of gravitas.
On the palate the wine is medium-bodied, with focused orchard fruits, key lime and roasted almond notions lifted by bright acidity and topped off with a haunting minerality. A wonderful bottle that will only get better with a little more cellar rest. Honestly, we can’t think of a better Champagne for under fifty dollars.
JOHN GILMAN 92+ POINTS - "Alexandre Chartogne’s Sainte Anne bottling hails from several different lieux à dits in Merfy and is fermented in stainless steel tanks, with indigenous yeasts and the current release is comprised of a fifty-fifty blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The current release is excellent, offering the tactile seriousness on the palate that is the calling card of all of Alexandre’s wines that I have had a pleasure to taste so far, along with superb, racy structure and impressive nascent complexity. The bouquet is a blend of apple, white peach, complex minerality, gentle brioche, white flowers and a bit of high-end smokiness. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, young and beautifully focused, with a rock solid core, great cut and grip, very refined mousse and outstanding length and grip on the primary finish. This is still very early days for this superb wine, so tuck it away in the cellar for at least a couple of years and let it blossom. Fine, fine juice."
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