There are few other estates in Montalcino with roots as deep as Lisini. The Lisini-Clementi family has owned lands in Montalcino since the sixteenth century, and the historic tower and loggia on the property has its beginnings in the 1300s. The first vines were planted here in the 1930s, well before the international craze for the area’s wines. And Lisini wasn’t just one of the founding members of the consorzio di Brunello in the 1967: The late Elina Lisini, the head of the family until her passing in 2009 was its first and only female president in 1970! Today, the estate totals roughly 150 hectares that surround the ancient farmhouse and winery, and brothers Carlo and Lorenzo, along with cousin Ludovica, continue the traditions of their forbearers. This includes not just the production of wine—which is based entirely on the noble sangiovese grape—but also of olive oil. Their location, in the hills surrounding Sant’Angelo in Colle, in the Southwest corner of Montalcino, are particularly favorable to the cultivation of both sangiovese and olives. Their 20 or so hectares of vineyards are at an average elevation of 350 meters above sea level, and open to the south, towards the Maremma area of Tuscany, making them drier and more ventilated than other locations more landlocked than Lisini.
With the history of the Lisini family running so deep in Montalcino, the current regime saw no other way to produce their wines other than with respect for tradition. This means that only sangiovese is grown, fermentations take place in glass lined cement tanks, and all wines age in large Slavonian oak casks. The winemaking at the estate was guided starting in the 1980s for many years by Franco Bernabei (of Felsina and Fontodi fame) who then trained the current staff enologist Filippo Paoletti. The late Giulio Gambelli (the original “sangiovesista”, responsible for many years at Biondi Santi and Soldera, and the creator of Le Pergole Torte), also collaborated with the Lisinis for a while, and current winemaker Filippo counts both of these as important inspirations and influences on his work.
DECANTER 96 POINTS - "With vineyards between Sant'Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell'Abate on the inner edge of the Sesta district, Lisini's vineyards are cleansed by constant breezes from the Tuscan Coast. Stony soils with an important underpinning of limestone as well as elevations over 300 metres help preserve freshness in their wines. The 2015 is beautifully fragrant, almost exotic in character. Plump red fruit and sweet summer herbs fill the mouth but rather than being heavy, this is poised and transparent. Ample powdery tannins are fine and lead to a tangy marine finish." (MM) Inner quote mark (2/2020)
WINE SPECTATOR 94 POINTS - "A serious, brooding red, with ripe cherry and strawberry flavors offsetting the beefy tannins. Loam, iron and almond notes chime in. Balanced and long overall."
ANTONIO GALLONI; VINOUS 94 POINTS - "The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino dark and rich, showing ripe black cherries and plum, with layers of haunting florals, exotic brown spice and smoky mineral tones. On the palate, a wave of polished textures wash across the senses, ushering in juicy black cherry with sweet herbal and floral undertones, with zesty spices and vibrant acidity adding a refreshing quality. The finish is long and remarkably fresh, an example of how the warmth of Sant’Angelo in Colle can be tempered by a deft hand, as fine tannins come forward, balanced by mouthwatering acidity and punctuated by residual pure red berry fruit. It’s a wine that’s very easy to love, with near term appeal and potential for the cellar."