FRENCH WINE

JOHN GILMAN VIEW FROM THE CELLAR 92 POINTS-"It had been a few years since I last tasted a bottle of Agrapart’s lovely “Les 7 Crus” cuvée. The wine is really lovely, offering up a pure and complex bouquet of apple, tart pear, chalky minerality, citrus zest and fresh-baked bread. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a lovely core, elegant mousse, fine focus and a very long, zesty and perfectly balanced finish. This is one lower dosage bottling that is drinking with style and grace in its youth. 2016-2030."

1 1/2 Stars ChampagneGuide.net-"Compared to Agrapart's 7 Crus, this is both finer in texture and larger in body-you see the influence of grand cru terroir not only in finesse but in puissance as well. It's intensely chalky under the silky notes of pear, green citrus and guava, anchored by vibrant acidity, and it feels fragrant and flowery on the long finish, demonstrating a superb balance and focus. Last tasted: 11/13."-Peter Leim

WINE SPECTATOR 93 POINTS-"Rich, with smoky toasted brioche and kumquat aromas and flavors, this mouthwatering Champagne offers a fine, satiny mousse and accents of ripe yellow peach, crème de cassis, saffron and nut. Firm finish. Drink now through 2026. 16,000 cases made, 150 cases imported. (12/18)""

This non dosed Brut (except the reserve component) was all vinified in secondhand barrels, most of which are old, 228-liter barriques purchased from Chablis. The wines stay in barrel for about six months before being blended and bottled: "The idea is not to mark the wines with the wood," says chef de cave Nicolas Jaeger, "but to give them more structure, more finesse and length." This bottling is a blend of 41 percent chardonnay, 32 percent Pinot Noir and 27 percent Meunier, with 20 percent of the total made up of reserve wines.

WINE SPECTATOR 91 -"A sleek and minerally rosé, with hints of graphite and spice lacing the pretty apricot and white cherry fruit flavors as they ride the lively mousse. Racy acidity firms the finish. Disgorged November 2018. Drink now. 4,000 cases made, 1,500 cases imported. (12/19)"

WINE ADVOCATE 90 POINTS-"Unfortunately I was only able to taste one new release from Andre Clouet this year. The NV Brut Grande Reserve emerges from the glass with layers of hazelnut, pear, spice and dried flower aromas. This rich, creamy wine impresses for its balance and sheer richness. I loved it. This is Lot L06. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014."(11/11)

Fashioned from 100% Bouzy and Ambonnay Pinot Noir form the 2009 and 2008 vintages with 30% of the base wine fermented in used Sauterenes barrels. The bouquet is open airy with inviting sourdough, yellow plum, citrus and Macintosh apple notes. This is a concentrated, but not at all ponderous, Champagne with a palate that features appetizing summer and citrus fruits seamlessly wedded to oak derived notions of honey, toast and brown spices. The low (6g/l) dosage works well here to keep everything lively while also letting Champagnes chalk and soil character to come to the fore. This intricately crafted Brut beautifully marries power and poise in way that one seldom finds at this low price point.

THE CHAMPAGNE GUIDE 95 POINTS - "I say 10% of the blend is from my blood!' declares Jean-Francois Clouet, who has changed the style of his family's rose to a fresher and more direct mood, not so soft, aiming for the lively impression of malic acidity, even though it goes through full malolactic fermentation. The result is arose that epitomises elegance and focus, in the midst of generous red fruits that characterise Bouzy and Ambonnay. This cuvee encapsulates the wonderful talent of Pinot Noir to build and rise on the finish, opening to wonderful characters of perfumed rosehip, pink pepper and pomegrate. An undercurrent of fine, chalk mineral texture, accurate line and persevering length define a pristine and enticingly priced rose."

IMPORTER'S NOTES-"100% Chardonnay. Dosage 8 to 9g/L. Blend of 2009 and 2010 vintages. Located in the Côte des Blancs, Bertrand Robert's family’s plots sit on some of the most prized terroir in the world, much of it in the Grand Cru territory of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger. Aromas of yeast, apple, walnut and fresh bread complemented by hints of white flowers and acacia. Complex, subtle and pure, offering precise minerality backed by citrus, stone fruit, brioche and ginger flavors. Finishes long and with a chalky texture. It is hard not to be delighted by this bubbly’s fresh mix of white flower, acacia, and orchard fruit aromas. In the mouth this Champagne is vividly juicy and filled to the brim with ripe apple, white peach and nectarine flavors that are imbued with pervasive inflections of wet stones and seashells. The finish, which fades only with greatest reluctance, tantalizes with subtle glimmers of allspice, ginger and brioche.

The Robert family has been in the Champagne growing business for well over a century, but it wasn’t until 1961 that André Robert established the family’s own estate brand and production cellars. In 1997 André’s son Bertrand took over management of the operation. Today he farms some 27 acres split into dozens of tiny garden sized parcels. His vines average between 25-30 years of age with the lion’s share being Chardonnay planted in the Le Mesnil cru. Bertrand practices Viticulture Raisonnée, a protocol that emphasizes natural measures to control pests and rot with chemical treatments used only as a last resort. So once again, as we have seen with other top growerproducers, the quality of this Champagne is a natural outgrowth of family pride combined with generations of local knowledge along with a deep reverence for the land.

WINERY NOTES - "Generous and plentiful foam, with numerous strings of tiny bubbles. The nose is very powerful, dominated by aromas of fruits in pastry, stewed apricot, with frank notes of sugared almond. Slight notes of pepper and aniseed. On the palate, the feeling is very ample and long, with remaining pastry feeling, ending on a spicy note."

A rich yet subtle blend ot 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay all sourced from the firm's plantings in the Grand Cru village of Ay. The blend is based on the 2013 vintage with 20% cask aged reserve wines. The wine as given a dosage of 9 grams per liter after aging on the yeast for 15 to 18 months.

JAMES SUCKLING 92 POINTS-"A smooth, gently round and nicely balanced Champagne dominant in pinot meunier, pinot noir and chardonnay to boot. It has attractive lemon citrus flavors and is really punchy, refined and gently nutty. A smooth, pastry-like texture comes to the fore on the finish. Drink now."

WINE ADVOCATE 92 POINTS - "The NV Brut Premier Cru is a gorgeous wine, and a great introduction to the house style. Lemon, white flowers, mint, crushed rocks are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass as this refined Champagne shows off its impeccable class and total pedigree. The Premier Cru is 45% Pinot Meunier, 25% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and 5% Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Fromenteau. The high percentage of red grapes is felt in the wine’s breadth, while the aromas and flavors remain fresh, vibrant and beautifully nuanced throughout. This is a fabulous entry-level offering."

This exquisitely crafted champagne is derived from a mix of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay, perfectly balanced to create a Rose champagne that is one to be consumed when celebrating a special occasion. Light crisp taste, which is fresh and fruity, with the color of delicate rose petals.
The copper casing of both the Brut and the Rose were inspired by the suit of armor worn by the knights of the palace. They are crafted from 100% second generation scrap copper and each bottle is recycled after consumption. So why the copper in the first place? Believe it or not, it’s not just bling it actually helps save energy and keeps the temperature of the wine stabilized while it’s being consumed without the use of an ice bucket.

Champagne Bertrand Senecourt is an Epernay Champagne house that sometimes makes special cuvees, such as Beau Joie Special Cuvee Brut. The Champagne is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay and it is bottled in a distinctive 100% copper wrapper that Bertrand Senecourt says is inspired by the suits of armor worn by medieval knights. The copper “suit of armor” keeps the Champagne colder for longer periods, according to Bertrand Senecourt, and the copper wrapper is made from recycled copper. In 2012 Beau Joie Special Cuvee Brut was the official Champagne for the party held after the Grammys at the Chateau Marmont in Los Angeles. Other Beau Joie cuvees have earned compliments in Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar. Bertrand Senecourt is also the maker of the prestigious Charles Ellner Champagnes.

JOHN GILMAN 92 POINTS-"The soon to be released version of Bérêche et Fils non-vintage “Brut Réserve” is going to be excellent. The wine is its customary blend of one-third each of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, with the wine having been disgorged in January of 2017. As is typical of this bottling, one-third of the blend is reserve wines and the finishing dosage was 6.5 grams per liter. This is really a lovely wine in the making, offering up a youthful and classy bouquet of apple, pear, chalky soil tones, brioche and just a whisper of buttery oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and focused, with lovely mousse, excellent balance and grip and a long, zesty and nascently complex finish. A superb non-vintage bottling. 2018-2035. (07/18)

PETER LEIM 1 1/2 STARS-"It's ample in body, its creammy notes of stone fruits, orange citrus and green apple underlind by stony minerality, and it finishes with excellent length and depth." This is made of roughly equal parts Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier, and 70 percent of it was vinified in barrel. The base wine is a blend of the 2013 and 2014 vintages. It was disgorged in January of 2017 with a dosage of 7 grams per liter.

JAMES SUCKLING 94 POINTS - "A gorgeous rosé Champagne with sliced strawberries, orange peel and hints of cream and pie crust. Medium body, tight and integrated tannins and a long and flavorful finish. Tangy acidity. The texture shows a fine bead and lightness. Long and intense. Drink now."

JAMES SUCKLING 94 POINTS - "A gorgeous rosé Champagne with sliced strawberries, orange peel and hints of cream and pie crust. Medium body, tight and integrated tannins and a long and flavorful finish. Tangy acidity. The texture shows a fine bead and lightness. Long and intense. Drink now."

WINE SPECTATOR 92 POINTS "Lacy in texture, with sleek acidity, this well-knit rosé Champagne offers delicate notes of blood orange glacé, pickled ginger and oyster shell, revealing a rich hint of grilled nut. The firm, almost crunchy finish is nicely spiced and lingering. Drink now through 2023."

WINE SPECTATOR 93 POINTS - "Very elegant and refined in texture, with fresh, focused acidity finding fine integration with the layered notes of patisserie apple, black currant, smoky mineral and biscuit, complimented by hints of lemon zest and honey. Lingering finish. Drink now through 2020. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 5,000 cases imported.”

We are excited about this offering because we love nothing more than offering killer deals on great wines. While not as flashy or fashionable as some of its Grandes Marques brethren, Bollinger nevertheless possesses a legion of savvy devotees that is surpassed only by that of Krug’s. As with Krug’s Grand Cuvee, Bollinger’s reputation is anchored by their consistently splendid multi-vintage Brut Special. This is a particularly nice rendition and it is further notable because it is the first release of Special Cuvee packaged in a swanky new bottle patterned after one the company used in the 1840s. Disgorged this past summer, 45% of the blend is from 2008, while 50% is from 2007, with the rest being composed of older vintages aged in magnum.

Jacques Bollinger and Paul-Joseph Renaudin founded Bollinger in 1829. However, it was really the widow (yes, another dynamic Champagne widow) Lilly Bollinger, who guided the firm from 1941 to 1971, that is most responsible for the lofty reputation that the firm enjoys today. By all accounts this grande dame was an indefatigable and astute leader that left no stone unturned in the pursuit of bolstering the excellence of her Champagnes. Ghislain de Montgolfier, a great great grandson of Jacques Bollinger, took charge of the house from 1994 to 2008. Today, Jérôme Philipon is managing director, while Mathieu Kauffmann , who has been with the house since 2001, is Bollinger’s brilliant chef de cave. Bollinger’s 395 acres of vines provide for roughly two-thirds of the house’s needs, which permits greater control over style and quality.

Bruno Gobillard Brut Rose Sophie base is a blend of 50% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Meunier topped with 15% still red wine. Pale and very delicate, it shows fresh Queen Anne cherry character backed by wonderful acidity due to the absence of malolactice fermentation.

WINE SPECTATOR 90 POINTS - "A lively version, with bright, well-knit acidity and a lacy texture. This offers subtle notes of ripe cherry and strawberry fruit, gingersnap and red licorice. Citrusy finish."

Domaine Bruno Gobillard is in Pierry, near Epernay. The estate was created in 1994 when Bruno Gobillard, then a 28-year-old from a long-established Champagne producing family, decided to strike out on his own. Bruno Gobillard has 17 acres of vineyards located in the communes of Moussy, Pierry, Epernay, Cramant, Chatilllonsur-Marne and La Chapelle Montaudon. The vines are an average of 30 years old. The Gobillard family has been growing grapes and making Champagne in the region since the mid-19th century.

Camille Savès is a still under the radar family run Champagne house in the village of Bouzy making small quantities of fine artisanally crafted Champagne. All fruit is sourced from the family's own 25 acres of vineyards, which include Grand Cru parcels in the Grand Crus of Bouzy, Ambonnay and Tours-sur-Marne. The vines are tended according to the principles of lutte raisonée and have an average age of nearly forty years. A blend of 60% Chardonnay, and 40% Pinot Noir 12% of which is Bouzy Rouge. All the vineyard parcels for this rose are located in Bouzy and are south-facing. The base vintage is 2012 blended with 20% reserve wine. After some three years of aging on the lees this bottle was disgorged in November of 2016 with a dosage of 9 g/l. There is a delightful, delicate red berry aroma on the nose and while amply textured, harmonious palate delivers a delectable panoply of red fruits toned by ample acids and chalk inflections.

Fashioned from 45% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Meunier, this Brut Rose charms with an enticing nose of red currants, strawberries and lemon curd. The fresh red fruits spill over to the dry yet creammy palate. Here then is a well intergrated and balanced Rose that is a real pleasure to drink and a real bargain to boot.

WINE SPECTATOR 91 POINTS - "Refined, with well-meshed acidity providing a backbone for delicate flavors of dried currant, graphite, green plum, meringue and grapefruit zest. Fresh, smoke-tinged finish. Drink now through 2020. 10,000 cases made."

Bright and juicy with seamlessly integrated flavors, this bargain Brut Rose looks like a lock to make our December Best Champagnes of the Year roster. These recent Wine Spectator web notes are spot on.

Founded in Avize in 1811 by Charles-Gabriel de Cazanove, the Charles de Cazanove house rose to prominence under the guidance of his son, Charles Nicolas. Charles Nicolas was a trained botanist who gained fame for his work fighting the phylloxera scourge. Sales of the brand expanded rapidly after the Second World War and today the firm is now the largest family-owned Champagne producer as well being the second-leading Champagne brand sold in France. The firm was purchased by its present owners, the Lombard family, in 1985. The house style is a modern one emphasizing fruit, freshness and accessibility. Despite all their history and sales success in overseas, Charles de Cazanove is virtually unknown in the U.S. This anomalous situation is now being addressed by the winery through some very aggressive pricing programs that we are only too happy to pass on to you. It should be noted that the lion’s share of the juice for De Casanove’s Champagnes is sourced from the company’s own highly-rated vineyards, a factor which results in lower production costs as well more consistent quality.

Made of 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier and 10% Chardonnay, this Brut is configured more for easy cocktail quaffing, rather than for contemplation. That said, this is still an impeccably crafted and poised Champagne as these Wine Spectator notes suggest.

Founded in Avize in 1811 by Charles-Gabriel de Cazanove, the Charles de Cazanove house rose to prominence under the guidance of his son, Charles Nicolas. Charles Nicolas was a trained botanist who gained fame for his work fighting the phylloxera scourge. Sales of the brand expanded rapidly after the Second World War and today the firm is now the largest family-owned Champagne producer as well being the second-leading Champagne brand sold in France. The firm was purchased by its present owners, the Lombard family, in 1985. The house style is a modern one emphasizing fruit, freshness and accessibility. Despite all their history and sales success in overseas, Charles de Cazanove is virtually unknown in the U.S. This anomalous situation is now being addressed by the winery through some very aggressive pricing programs that we are only too happy to pass on to you. It should be noted that the lion’s share of the juice for De Casanove’s Champagnes is sourced from the company’s own highly-rated vineyards, a factor which results in lower production costs as well more consistent quality.