FRENCH WINE

There are few winemakers in history as bullish or brazen, roguish or renegade, as the Loire Valley's Didier Dagueneau. High-standards, incredible risk-taking, impeccable attention to detail, zealous allegiance to his terroir, and a willingness to take a stand against convention made this once-professional motorcycle sidecar racer the stuff of legends.

However dare-devilish in both winemaking and in life, Didier's untimely death in a plane crash in 2008 shook the wine community to its core. Fortunately for all who love Didier's wines, his oldest son, Louis-Benjamin, is now steering the domaine with the audacity, passion and talent that many critics and wine-lovers agree equal those of his father.

Famous in the Loire and throughout the world for perfumed Sauvignon blanc, Pouilly-Fume sits due east, across the Loire River from Sancerre. Limestone soils with clay and flint (also called silex) contribute to the wines' freshness and often times smoky, flinty, mineral character.

From the single vineyard Buisson Menard, renamed Renard (fox in French) to get even at a wine critic who had mistakenly named it that way while criticizing Didier Dagueneau, this wine is vibrant and crisp, with firm acidity and flavors of pear, citrus and herb. Great minerality and raciness in the finish, with some hints of melon and vanilla.

Dagueneau are renowned for being one of the most innovative estates in the Puilly-Fumé appellation, pushing the boundaries of winemaking to obtain superb results with Sauvignon Blanc. Only very tiny allocations of this wine are available, so grab them while you can. Citrus and grapefruit aromas dominate with a tinge of smoky gunflint; beautiful texture and roundness.