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Wine Advocate Score: 93
WINE ADVOCATE 93 POINTS - "There are only 2,000 bottles of the 2018 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Vernays, a cuvée derived from thin, chalky soils. Unfurling in the glass with notes of green pear, wheat toast and beeswax, it's medium to full-bodied, powerful and muscular, with a racy spine of acidity and abundant chalky dry extract, concluding with a long, penetrating finish. This is well worth seeking out. Jean-Marie Guffens describes 2018 as "the most incomprehensible vintage of my career." Remembering the 1996s, which were picked based on their potential alcohol levels but before they had attained true ripeness, his intuition—shared by Julien Desplans, who so ably superintends Maison Verget today—was to wait, pursuing concentration and true maturity above all else. That resulted in a loss of potential yields amounting to some 10% to 15%, as well as lower acidities. Generous yields meant that the Verget team could afford to press selectively, taking only the highest-acid press fractions and favoring the fruit of old vines over young. Guffens and Desplans are confident that they made the right decisions, and their conviction is vindicated by a successful and consistent portfolio from Verget, on average lower in alcohol than 2015. Special mention is due to the Pouilly-Fuissé Les Combes Vieilles Vignes, a wine produced by methods as fastidious as those employed at Domaine Guffens-Heynen: multiple "tries" in the vineyard, attentive pressing and a virtuosic élevage; it is well worth a special effort to seek out."
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