WINE SPECTATOR 91 POINTS - "Firm and smoky, this tightly knit Champagne is dense and focused, showing a subtle mix of patisserie apple, toast, plum compote and mandarin orange peel flavors. This should open with some short-term cellaring. Disgorged November 2015. Best from 2017 through 2020. 3,000 cases made."
The corporate changes that have swept through Champagne in recent years seem sure to rob many old houses of their connection to the past. But one small jewel of a house is moving ever closer to its roots: Philipponnat.
It is one of the last houses to be run by a member of its founding family. And Charles Philipponnat is a true Champenois, descended from winemakers, cellarmasters and growers dating back nearly 600 years.
Champagne is in Charles’ blood, and this helps to explain Philipponnat’s recent resurgence. Twenty years ago, the house was known largely for its iconic Clos des Goisses—the majestic tête de cuvée made from Champagne’s single greatest vineyard.
But under Charles, Philipponnat is gaining reverence for its entire portfolio of richly expressive Champagnes.