Eric Asimov, writing in the New York Times, describes Gaia as "one of Greece’s best modern wineries." Since 1998, Gaia's winemaker and founder, Yiannis Paraskevopoulos has been trying to redefine retsina as a proud custom rather than a genre to be shunned. Mr. Paraskevopoulos makes the Gaia Ritinitis from Roditis grapes — "which can make fresh, spicy wines — grown at relatively high altitudes, 2,300 to 3,300 feet above sea level. He also paid close attention to the quality of the resin, he said, making sure it was especially fresh. The result was a refreshing, invigorating wine, with a bright pungency that seems ready-made for Greek cooking in all its garlicky, herbal glory. Though retsina is primarily a white wine (and occasionally a rosé), it goes beautifully with roasted lamb, its punchy flavors refusing to knuckle under to the savory meat. I have also found retsina to be a wonderful partner for spicy Indian food."