The richest white Burgundy in the de Villaine stable, this Rully is an exercise in balance. Hazelnut and quince paste greet the nose, followed by a dense mouthful of ripe, succulent yellow fruits. Despite its voluptuousness, the wine is dry, fresh, very stony, and even salty—mouthwateringly delicious. This vintage is magnificent for Les Saint-Jacques, and ample proof of the high quality of terroir in this southern stronghold of Burgundy. The fact that it isn’t premier cru, well, that’s proof of a talented grower, because it sure does taste like it. —Dixon Brooke
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