Véronique Bonin and Nicolas Bernard are turning out some of the most exciting white burgundy on the planet. The young couple took over the 7ha domaine, formerly known as Michelot Mère et Fille, from Véronique's family in 1999. They work exclusively in chardonnay, largely in Meursault with a few small plots in Puligny. Their strict work in the vineyard allows them to let their wines to express themselves in the cellar, with as little intervention as possible - natural yeasts, no enzymes, no chaptalization, no fining, no filtering and minimal sulfur throughout the process (à la d'Auvenay from Madame Bize-Leroy). The wines rest in mostly older barrels for 15 months and another 4 months in stainless before bottling.
Bernard believes that the buttery character in Meursault is a modern invention rather than an inherent quality, and his wines are more about minerality and energy than pure richness. That's not to say these lack concentration, but rather their weightless quality defines them.
These 50 to 60 year old vines are planted at the upper reaches of Charmes, just below Perrières, and this wine always has more in common with the stony, nervy character of most Perrières than it does with your average Charmes. This is a lifted, elegant, pure and thrilling Charmes that has length and intensity to rival the very best wines of Meursault