This medium-bodied red was made by the Blue
Danube Winery in the Dealu Mare region of
Romania from 100% Feteasca Neagra, an indigenous
grape variety also known as Black Maiden. The
wine was aged for 12 months in a combination of
French and Romanian oak. It has a dark color
with hints of bramble or forest on the nose; in
the mouth, you find really good fruit with
flavors of black cherries/plums and a subtle
minerality on the finish. Fruit forward enough
to drink by itself, this red will also accompany
meat dishes and casseroles.
$8.95
750ml [372431]
Spain
Barbadillo palomino fino
JEREZ
Barbadillo is a family-owned business in the
Upper Jerez region in Spain and the largest
producer of Manzanilla in the whole of the Jerez
region. They own 500 hectares of vineyards, have
a rich tradition dating back centuries and,
judging by the outstanding quality of this
little Palomino, have an even brighter future.
Palomino Fino is a grape used mostly in the
production of Sherry. But, it can make an
enjoyable un-fortified wine with the right
touch. What touch is that, you may ask? Aye,
there's the rub. The grape is generally low in
both acidity and sugar, which doesn't affect its
use in Sherry but can make it tricky for making
standard wine from it. The Barbadillo version,
however, stands out. The nose starts with a
light minerality and straw notes and a
beautiful, refined cellared stone fruit essence.
The palate begins crisp with a rush of brisk
acidity balanced with upfront fruit and a light
sweetness in the background. Flavors of Asian
pear blend with a mélange of stone/orchard
fruits. The mouthfeel is rounded but not fat.
All in all, a very tasty, versatile white at a
great price that will work wonders solo or pair
with clean, simple dishes (cheeses, white meats,
pork, fish, etc.).
$6.95
750ml [380892]
BOTANI 2009
MOSCATEL malaga
“Botani” is
light, but fills the mouth with flavor. Since
“Botani” is made with Muscat of Alexandria it
suggests sweetness on the nose and mid-palate
but finishes clean and on the dry side of
off-dry. This is also a stunning wine to pair
with any number of seafood dishes, from sea-bass
with mango relish to ahi tuna or simply-prepared
shrimp. The amazing part is these grapes were
grown on slopes up to 60%, nearly vertical. The
neighbors make only dessert wines, in part
because sweet wines demand more money, so this
crystalline and pure dry Muscat is the only wine
of its kind in the region.
ROBERT PARKER 91 POINTS
"The 2009
Botani was sourced from organically farmed
70-year-old Moscatel de Alejandria vines
producing tiny yields. Thirty percent of the
wine was barrel-fermented in neutral French oak,
the rest in stainless steel. Medium
straw-colored with a green tint, it displays a
nose of mineral, spring flowers, acacia, and a
hint of tropical aromas. The 2009 vintage has
produced a wine with extra density and
concentration. Although the aromatics suggest
sweetness, the wine is dry but very fruity,
refreshing, and exceptionally long. It is an
outstanding value that over-delivers in a big
way."
$16.95
750ml [380527]
Celler Cal Pal 2007 "Black
Slate" d.o. priorat
"This is the debut vintage of this “Vi de Poble”
(village appellation) wine from the village of
Porrera. There are 1000 cases of 2007 Black
Slate, a blend of 60% Garnacha from vines over
60 years of age and 40% Carinena from vines over
100 years of age. Dark ruby-colored, the nose
exhibits lots of spice, mineral, underbrush,
black licorice and blueberry. Elegant on the
palate, it has tons of sweet black fruit, ripe
flavors, outstanding depth and concentration,
and several years of aging potential. However,
this finely rendered, moderately priced Priorat
can be enjoyed now as well as over the next
eight years." ROBERT PARKER 91 POINTS
$16.98
750ml [380885]
Tarima Monastrell 2009 D.O.
Jumilla
This Spanish
red is succulent, juicy, and
very impressive for the price.
Tarima is a brand new winery from Jumilla that
brings together the Gil Family and Jorge Ordonez
on another winning project. Some of you may
recall the feature we did in February on the on
exciting wines this partnership has been
launching over the last few years (Clio, El Nido,
Shaya, and La Cana to name a few). The new
Tarima Monastrell shows waves of fruit with
blueberry, raspberry, and pomegranate that turns
pretty and floral in a way that is surprising
for the variety. Monsatrell (aka Mourvedre) can
sometimes be massive, meaty, and tannic, but
Tarima goes a for a medium-weight style with
great purity and supple tannins. The much
discussed and truly great 2009 vintage shows
promise throughout Spain with early samples
showing added depth, acidity, purity, length,
and finesse—more of everything in a way that
reflects Mother-Nature’s favor rather than
winemaker manipulation. There couldn’t be a
better vintage to begin a new brand and this
2009 Tarima is a flashy and delicious debutant.
We think it would be hard to find a more
pleasurable way to spend $6.98.
$6.98
750ml [380888]
Papa Luna 2007 ,
D.O. Calatayud
Papa Luna
begins as bush vine grapes in the slate studded
Jiloca valley at 2,600 feet elevation. The blend
consists of 70 % Garnacha ( 70 to 100 year old
vines), 25 % Syrah, and 5 % Mazuelo. The wild
mountain herbs amongst the vineyards give rise
to the distinctive varietal aromas and garrigue
character in the wine. This Calatayud D.O.
offers one of the most unique areas in Spain for
old vine Garnacha and is set to follow Priorat
as a cutting edge region for Garnacha bases
wines and world class winemaking. After
individual varietal fermentation, the blended
wine spends 5 months in French and American
barrels. When the wine is poured, you are struck
by the deep purple color and crimson rim. The
nose provides aromas of raspberry and cherry
punctuated by herbs and vanilla. This is a
full-bodied wine with plenty of ripe fruit, fine
velvety tannins and crisp acidity.
Papa Luna
takes its name from Pedro Martinaz de Luna, born
near the Calatayud vineyards, who served as the
last Pope to reign in Avignon during the dual
Papacy of the 15th. century.ROBERT
PARKER gives this hedonistic
effort 90 POINTS.
$16.95
750ml [380890]
Pico Madama 2006, D.O. Jumilla
The region of
Jumilla is characterized by broad valleys and
plains crossed by mountains, which lie between
the Mediterranean coast and Castilla La Mancha.
The vineyards are planted at altitudes between
1,200 and 2,400 feet. 34-year-old Monastrell
vines provide 50 % of the blend, with Petit
Verdot making up the remaining 50 %. The
Monastrell spends 13 months in American oak,
while the Petit Verdot rests the same amount of
time in French oak. In the glass, this wine
displays a deep and intense red color with a
violet edge. Hints of dried flowers, paprika and
fruit notes of blueberry and blackberry work in
unison to create a striking nose. The palate
offering consists of soft yet firm tannins and
complex spices with a hint of tobacco.This rich
and full-bodied wine has a fine lengthy finish.
Robert Parker 93 points.
$ 29.98
750ml [380891]
Triton Prieto
Picudo 2008 Tierras de Leon
First of all
the grape here is Prieto Picudo—one of the most
obscure wine grapes from Spain. Second, this
wine floored us when we tasted it nearly 4
months ago. Nearly the entire wine staff was
together for dinner with the importer, and the
most eloquent description we came up was “...estupido
good!” The Trition Prieto Picudo comes from
altitudes nearing 3,000 feet from vines that are
60-80 years old, with mindboggling yields of
0.38 tons/acre. That’s the lowest tonnage
numbers we can remember. That crazy farming is
reflected in the wine with incredible depth and
massive black raspberry and boysenberry
liqueur-like fruit. Surprisingly, it never gets
heavy as all that richness is balanced by a core
of fine minerality. We did get a second look at
this wine recently and it is starting to open up
more layers. The Triton Prieto Picudo should be
fascinating to track through its development,
but with only 388 cases produced it will be very
limited.
$29.95
750ml [380886]
Italy
BRESSAN MASTRI VINAI:
RE-DISCOVERING TRADITION IN FRIULI
“These are wine drinkers’ wines.” This
comment came from John Downing, our
long-time Italian wine buyer, upon recently
encountering this astonishing line-up from
Friuli’s Bressan Mastri Vinai. Our
staff, immediately smitten, recognized
instinctively what he meant: to say the very
least, these superb wines are
traditionally-crafted, absolutely singular
in terroir expression, and quite unlike
anything else from Friuli, or Italy for that
matter. Almost more evocative, if you can
believe it, of the great wines from Rioja’s
R. Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia or
France’s greatly-missed Didier Dagueneau,
these astonishing wines belong to a certain
arch-traditional, hyper-naturalist, and
anachronistic school of wine-making that
vehemently resists things like technological
innovation, international style, and, well,
anything other than what they’ve
done, quite successfully, since 1726.
From the village of Farra di Isonzo in the
heart of Italy’s Collio and Isonzo D.O.C,
Bressan Mastri Vinai was founded in 1726 and
has been family-owned and operated for ten
generations. Often mentioned in the same
breath as cult, reactionary producers Josko
Gravner and Stanko Radikon, Bressan typifies
the ultra-old-school approach to Friulian
winemaking. The following is an abridgement
of their extraordinary manifesto:
• Everything is done by
hand – vine selection, harvest, cultivation,
even labeling
• Everything is done
naturally – no herbicides, pesticides,
fungicides, or synthetic chemical substances
of any kind
• No sulphur used in the wine-making process
• Only natural, indigenous yeasts
• Preferential use of indigenous grape
varieties
• No filtration, no irrigation
• No new oak – only un-toasted Slavonian
large casks, tonneaux, barriques
• Old vines – many of the vines on the
estate are over 100-years-old, and no vine
may produce wine until at least seven years
old
• No wine is released until it’s ready.
Some wines are held back as long as ten
years before release.
In
short, Bressan is one of the most-exciting
discoveries we’ve made in quite a while, but
certainly something that must be tasted to
be believed and understood – in fact, we
invite you to do so at the wine bar on
Tuesday, September 21st,
as part of our $10 Tuesdays series, with
Bressan representative George Pavlov.
BRESSAN MASTRI VINAI 2003
VERDUZZO FRIULANO
Closely-related to
the Verduzzo Giallo used in Friuli’s great sweet
wine, Ramandolo, this wine, from Verduzzo
Friulano, is completely dry. Offering up an
incredibly complex bouquet of apricots,
paraffin, citrus zest, lanolin, sea-salt and
oyster shell supported by a nuanced touch of
almond oil and sandalwood from a little time in
old Slavonian casks, this is a white vin de
garde that will actually improve for another
10-15 years in the bottle. Quite unlike the
squeaky-clean, stainless-steel fermented whites
that Friuli has become known for, this is a
monumental example of the old-style approach.
Try it with a dish of sautéed scallops or a few
slices of Prosciutto di San Daniele. Limited.
$21.98
750ml [380049]
BRESSAN MASTRI VINAI 2004
SCHIOPPETTINO
Also known as
Ribolla Nera, this grape varietal is notoriously
difficult to ferment properly. In the old days,
wine that hadn’t completed its fermentation
would begin to re-ferment in the bottle once the
weather warmed up, causing bottles to explode
with the pressure from carbon dioxide. This is
how the grape gained its nickname,
Schioppetino, or “little rifle.” And this
wine is an absolutely remarkable example of
Schioppettino – with an incredibly complex nose
of tobacco, black pepper, leather, and black
raspberries supported by notes of sea-salt,
musk, and sandlewood, this wine delivers all
this plus more – miso, green tea, dark
chocolate, etc. – on the remarkably long,
satisfying and impeccably-balanced palate. A
truly remarkable discovery. Try it with roasted
duck or a hunk of Reggiano right off the wheel.
Limited.
$33.98
750ml [380050]
BRESSAN MASTRI VINAI 2003
PINOT NERO
Pinot Noir has been
grown on this estate since 1726. And this
example, from very old vines grown on a
remarkably complex, ferrous soil called
ferrettizzato, shows a side of Pinot Noir
quite unlike anything else in the world. Rich,
full-bodied, and laden with dark, brooding spice
tones, this wine delivers an intense nose of
stony wild raspberries, Sarawak peppercorns,
porcini powder, and a dark earthiness that
transforms in the glass into a complex perfume
of dried roses, oolong tea, and toasted herbs,
finishing finally with a mysterious umami
savoriness. Extremely complex, and something
for the Pinot fan who thinks he’s tried
everything. Excellent with game or roasted
lamb. Limited.
$33.98
750ml [380051]
BRESSAN MASTRI VINAI 1998
PIGNOL
The world’s
slowest-fermenting grape variety, Pignolo is
something of a specialty of the area and a
rarity, with prices to match. Sought after by
connoisseurs, Pignol can produce intensely
complex, age-worthy wines that sell for prices
well into the triple digits. This example,
already twelve years old (Bressan never releases
their Pignolo until it is at least ten years
old), can compete with the best of them.
Offering up a mind-numbingly complex bouquet of
black plums, heirloom tomato, and somewhat
juicier, rounder fruit than the Schioppettino,
the palate is supported by subtle notes of
black-strap molasses, more black plums, and a
high, lifted acidity. Finishing with a
mysterious, smoky/savory minerality, this wine
is something to wonder at. And while it
performs beautifully now, this wine will improve
for decades. Extremely limited.
$59.98
750ml [380052]
Previously Featured...
Chillin’ reds & summer
sippers
When it comes to
chilling down wines, whites and rosés are the
usual suspects. There are, however, a number of
red wines that shine with a bit of a chill and
we thought it would be fun to offer you a few
outstanding value selections that are perfect
for the warmer months of August and September.
And, while we're at it-- a few delicious wines
perfect to help keep summer's heat at bay.
Cheers!
BERGER
2009 ZWEIGELT, AUSTRIA
So you’ve tried the amazingly popular and
iconoclastic GrüVe from Berger and loved it?
Well, now it’s time to try its red-wine sibling!
Once again, in the perennially-popular (and
crown-capped!) liter format (33% more wine = 33%
more fun!), comes this delicious, quaffable
rendition of Austria’s favorite and
most-consumed red variety, Zweiglet (pronounced
“tsv eye gelt”), AKA Blauer Zweigelt. Fresh and
unoaked, medium-bodied, and moderate in alcohol,
this wine is the antithesis (in fact, the polar
opposite!) of the all-too-common oaked-up,
opaque, purple, alcohol-and-fruit-bomb you find
so prevalent these days in homage to the taste
preferences of Mr. Parker. Clean, tangy,
resplendent with red fruits, spice, and subtle
herbal notes, this a red wine for drinking in
the purest (and most enjoyable) sense. An ideal
Summer quaff that is especially refreshing on a
warm evening or at afternoon outdoor affair.
Give it a chill and enjoy!
$12.95
750ml [311315]
MUMELTER 2008 SANTA MADDALENA, ALTO ADIGE, ITALY
While some wines are best on their own, others
shine at the table and really make food come
alive. The latter definitely applies to Santa
Maddalena. This wine is produced in Italy’s Alto
Adige region and is made from the Schiava grape.
In our opinion, Georg Mumelter makes one of the
best and we were fortunate to have enjoyed this
with him and his family at their dinner table.
We couldn’t help but notice that they began the
meal with this wine and after tasting it we
understand why it went so quickly and why the
locals drink a lot of it.
Mumelter’s Schiava is fermented entirely in
stainless steel and he adds a dollop of Lagrein
to round it out. The wine is pale red in color
and boasts intriguing aromas of wild
strawberries with just a hint of white pepper
while the palate is richer and broader than the
color would suggest. We love this wine with
pork, ham, salmon and a wide variety of cured
meats and cheeses. Give this one a slight chill
and be prepared for a wonderful treat from Alto
Adige.
$15.98
750ml [303118]
LA
CASACCIA 2009 GRIGNOLINO DEL MONFERRATO, ITALY
Grignolino is a very distinctive grape variety
that is native to Piedmont and not as well known
here in the US. It combines pale, Pinot-like
color (almost like a dark rose), delicious
strawberry and rhubarb fruits, grippy tannins
and a medium-bodied palate. As a result, it’s a
classic match with salumi and a wonderful
complement with a broad range of rich and
flavorful foods. This particular bottling is
fermented and aged in stainless steel for a
direct, fresh, straightforward style. Twenty
minutes in the refrigerator brings out the
fruit.
$13.98
750ml [301173]
DREI
DONA NV DRY LAMBRUSCO “BLACK LABEL”
Our long-time friend Enrico Drei Dona has
established himself as one of the top white and
red wine producers in Italy’s Emilia Romagna
region but we were recently surprised to
discover that he is also producing outstanding
Lambrusco. He was one of a number of Italian
winemakers who took part in our recent Italian
wine event at Antonello Ristorante here in Costa
Mesa and this wine really stole the show. That’s
saying a lot for a Lambrusco but we can assure
you that this one is simply delicious. It offers
rich, concentrated dark berry and plum fruits,
fresh acidity, great balance and a refreshing
effervescent finish. Bring this one to the next
bbq, picnic or party and it’s sure to be a hit.
An outstanding sparkler that’s versatile with a
wide variety of foods and great on its own.
$12.98
750ml [303251]
VILLIERA “DOWN TO EARTH”
Sauvignon Blanc / Semillon 2009
South Africa
South Africa is very topical these days with a
successful World Cup and a young man named
Oosthuizen making some news in Scotland
recently—so, it’s only fitting to have an
outstanding summer white wine to add to the list
of good stuff going on down south. The nose of
beautifully fresh green melon, guava, lime zest
and lemon grass notes leads to more tropical
fruits on the palate enwrapped in a lush, fat
mouthfeel that retains a nimble touch with
balancing acidity. If you like some of the big,
brash Sauv Blancs out of New Zealand, this one
is right up your alley. This will help keep
those hot summer days tempered and in a tasteful
way. Try with sea foods, picnic goods, tempura,
sushi.
$9.99
750ml [379069]
William Févre Chile 2008 La
Misión Chardonnay
William Févre is most known for his work in
Chablis and, tasting what he and his team are
doing down in Chile, that may change. This
awesome little $6.95 Chardonnay blew a few of us
away one afternoon in the cellar-- how can so
much complexity, flavor and class make it into a
sub-$7 bottling? We're not sure, but we are more
than happy to shout about it to you, our
faithful reader. The nose starts softly, subtly
with light notes of river water minerality and
young stone fruits. It was a bit cold when we
first poured so a little time in glass really
allowed this to express itself in terms of the
freshness of fruit and reality of terroir
the best of the Maipo Valley can showcase.
Tropical fruits abound: guava, pineapple,
lime/citrus, honey dew. This blends with a fresh
green apple note layered in a beautiful
minerality-- not the chalky, flinty type but
more river rock. The finish is lengthy, the
mouthfeel is fat and luscious, the underlying
acidity is refreshing.
La Mision will pair wonderfully with many summer
fave foods: fresh fish, sea food in general
(scallops, crab legs), white meats, tofu dishes,
margherita pizzas, white-sauce pastas. Wine Bar
Manager Todd Johnston, not a Chardonnay fan,
stated, “This is delicious!”
$6.95
750ml [380867]
Casa
Marguery 2008 Mendoza Malbec
Malbec is all the rage these days which,
overall, we think is a good thing. It's a very
versatile grape and can take on a variety of
expressions depending on pedigree and style it's
made in. The Casa Marguery 2008 is a beautiful,
easy-going Malbec that blends a bit of
prettiness with a solid backbone. The nose is
purple and gorgeous with strong violet and
boysenberry tones and a bit of fruit roll-up
(raspberry, mixed berry) in the background. The
palate continues the mélange of berries adding
some blueberry to the strong Boysen presence
then brings in some classic Malbec flavors:
smokiness, pencil lead, ironstone minerality.
The lengthy finish goes on and on-- this is a
young but complex easy-drinker that really shows
and shows off how good high altitude fruit can
be.
$13.95
750ml [380869]
Prieler 2007 Blaufränkisch
Johanneshöhe Burgenland, Austria
The Prieler winery is located in the Schützner
Stein area of Burgenland along the western shore
of Neusiedler Lake. The family has been farming
in this area for at least 150 years. Falstaff
Magazine, the leading Austrian wine guide,
choose Prieler as their 2009 Vintner of the
Year.
Their 2007 Blaufränkisch was sourced entirely
from the Johanneshöhe vineyard. The grapes are
sustainably farmed and were manually harvested
in the beginning of October. Fermentation was
temperature controlled in stainless steel and
the wine was aged in large oak barrels. The
result is a classic expression of this
light-bodied, elegant grape variety with dark
berries backed by herbal spice, white pepper and
deep forest berry fruit. This red is elegant,
juicy, well-structured with plenty of finesse,
and has a very long and persistent finish. A
perfect accompaniment to food on hot days, this
will stand up to a slight chill.
$20.95
750ml [311403]
Reds, Whites & Beat The Summertime Blues!
Muralhas de Moncão Rosé Vinho Verde
Along with more beautiful dry French rosés this
month on page 5, like last month, we have
another worthy rosé to throw into the mix. This
little Portugese beauty is a gorgeous, fruit
punch mélange of flavor and immediacy. The nose
has scents of brilliant Ruby Red grapefruit
blended with bright berries that lead to a
palate of more in-your-face fruitiness: red,
ripe berries again (raspberries, loganberry).
This is a good warm-weather chiller to enjoy by
the pool/beach/patio-- it's very easy going and
tasty with that little hint of citrus-like
acidity to keep it refreshing and a slight
spritz that makes it even more uplifting.
Sometimes you want something dry and serious,
like an Islay whiskey or cup of black coffee;
but, sometimes something simple is called for
and this semi-dry summer "punchy" rosé is just
perfect in that role.
$9.99
750ml [380866]
Goats do Roam 2009 White South Africa
It certainly is a clever name-- the play between
Goats do Roam and Côtes du Rhône. But if that
was the only thing behind this wine, a little
play on words gimmick to hopefully catch your
eye, it really wouldn't be worth writing up.
Fortunately for all, as we like a little
wordplay as much as the next wine staffer, this
is a tasty and affordable white that's perfect
for the season. A blend of 54% Viognier, 40%
Grenache Blanc and 6% Roussanne, the Goat has a
nose of stone fruits and light chalk that leads
to a tasty palate that starts sweet and fat,
with more peach and stone fruits and gorgeous
viscosity, but brightens up mid-palate with a
crisp river rock element and light minerality/acidity
that keeps it refreshing.
$6.98
750ml [377985]
Wolftrap 2009 Blend
Another awesome summer wine that won't break the
bank, The Wolftrap is a blend of Syrah,
Mourvèdre and Viognier that is unpretentious as
it is tasty. Both the Syrah and Mourvèdre come
from a Malmesbury vineyard with the Viognier
sourced on Boekenhoutskloof (Boekenhoutskloof,
the parent winery, was founded as a small farm
in 1776 in the Franschhoek valley, about a
40-minute drive northeast from Cape Town, South
Africa). This is a clean, simple wine with tasty
black fruit flavors mixed with a hint of red
berry and a light spiciness tempered by a touch
of violet. The tannins are smooth and you could
serve this one at cellar temperature for a nice
refreshing red wine for a hot summer day. The
name comes from stories of wolves in the
Franschhoek valley-- though they've never seen
one; they did, however, find an ancient wolf
trap that they decided to leave undisturbed,
just in case.
$8.98
750ml [377012]
Zaumau 2008 Tinto D.O. Priorat
Primarily Grenache (Garnacha) with Carignan (Samsó),
the 2008 Zaumau has a lot going on that will
definitely put it in the running for your wine
to grill or chill with. The nose of black
licorice, black pepper and ripe red plum/berry
fruit leads to an incredibly smooth palate that
starts sweet but has balanced tannic acids at
play with red rasberry fruit flavors, a plummy
fruit roll-up note and a good dose of earthy
minerality (river rocks meet sea salts). This
makes Zaumau a rocking little BBQ or patio wine.
It's not heavy but has enough tannins to pair up
well with summer fare-- it's also not a fruit
bomb but can stand alone as a good summer red
that will be very well enjoyed sans food.
$16.95
750ml [380839]
Joan d’Anguera Garnatxa 2009 D.O. Montsant
The red wines most enjoy in the summertime are
so fun to taste-- they're generally not heavy,
have good fruit and can go with a myriad of
foods or solo (like the ones on this page). This
little Garnatxa (Grenache) has a bunch of stuff
going on that really entices the palate--
there's a great abundance of sweet, ripe red
fruits (blackberries, mixed red berries, ripe
plum) that intermingle with a charming spicy (garrigue
or Provençal herbs) character. The palate
showcases more of the red fruit scents evident
in the nose but also adds a brilliant watermelon
streak and even a hint of sarsaparilla in the
mid-palate that bring back childhood summertime
tastes (Watermelon and Root Beer? Yes, please!)
that make for a good wine when the sun
shines.
$13.95
750ml [380831]
Musar 2008 Cuvée Rouge
Château Musar was established in Lebanon in 1930
by Gaston Hochar, and the winery is presently
run by his two sons, Serge and Ronald. The
vineyards are located at an altitude of over
3,000 feet in the Bekaa Valley where the vines
are sheltered by the surrounding mountains
running parallel to the Mediterranean coast.
Musar’s red wines are made from a blend of
Cinsault, Carignan, and Cabernet Sauvignon.
The Musar Cuvée is the second wine of Château
Musar, meant to be drunk in its youth. The 2008
is composed of Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Syrah. Tank fermented, the wine was not aged in
oak. This red will match well with Mediterranean
or Middle Eastern cuisine.
$15.99
750ml [365526]
Two Wines from Hungary
Following up on the success of our June wine of
the month, the Szõke Mátyás 2008 Pinot Gris, we
want to draw your attention this month to two
more wines from Hungary.
Patricius 08 Furmint (Dry), Tokaji,
Hungary
Winemaking in Hungary dates back to the Roman
Empire. By the Middle Ages Hungary’s wines were
well known across Europe, particularly the sweet
wines from Tokaji (Tokay). Furmint, the
principal grape variety used to make Tokay, can
also be delicious when fermented totally dry.
The Patricius 2008 Furmint displays aromas and
flavors of citrus, green apple and a hint of
gooseberry. Good fruit and a rich mid-palate
lead to a long finish with crisp minerality.
This delicious white is a versatile food wine
which will accompany fish, poultry and many
vegetarian dishes.
$14.95
750ml [372415]
Pfneiszl 2007
Kékfrankos, Sopron, Hungary
The Pfneiszl Winery, on the south bank of Lake
Neusiedl in Sopron, is owned and managed by two
sisters: Birgit and Katrin Pfneiszl. They are
part of a winemaking family based both in
Hungary and Austria. Their vineyards in Hungary
were seized by the former communist regime in
the name of collectivization. After that
happened, they had to “make due” with the 70
hectares that the family kept in Austria just on
the other side of the border. In 1993, their
Hungarian property was reclaimed by the sisters
who have converted the vineyards to organic
farming.
Kékfrankos is the Hungarian name for the grape
known as Bläufrankisch in Austria. The grapes
were vinified in stainless steel and aged 70% in
stainless steel with 30% in used Hungarian
barrique. This ruby-colored red displays aromas
and flavors of bright cherries, cranberries,
black tea, savory herbs and a trace of minerals
on the finish. Try this with beef or lamb off
the grill, stuffed peppers or goulash.
$13.95
750ml [372422]
Summer in Italy
GIOVANNI ALMONDO 2009 ROERO ARNEIS
Almondo is unquestionably one of the
greatest producers of Arneis in Italy and we are
excited to report that after an extended period
he has new representation in California. His
latest releases are outstanding as always and we
wanted to get them in print as soon as we could.
The 2009 Arneis offers a nose of fragrant apple
leaf, florals and minerals and a crisp,
refreshing palate with a delicious finish. It’s
the ideal Spring/Summer white that’s wonderful
on its own and versatile at the table. A
wonderful apéritif wine and great all-around
white. Outstanding!
$14.98
750ml [303231]
GIOVANNI ALMONDO 2009 ROERO
ARNEIS “BRICCO DELLE CILIEGIE”
As great as the above Arneis is,
there are occasions when a bit more richness and
complexity is called for and that’s where
“Bricco delle Ciliegie” comes in. It offers a
bit more of everything and a portion of the wine
is fermented in neutral oak for greater
complexity. The palate is slightly creamy yet
fresh throughout and long on the finish. Open
this with fish dishes, light pastas and white
meats and enjoy one of the very best Arneis made
$13.98
750ml [303058]
FATTORIA MONTICINO ROSSO 2009
ALBANA DI ROMAGNA
For those unfamiliar, Albana di
Romagna is an ancient white grape varietal grown
in Italy’s Emilia Romagna region that is often
considered a wine of lesser importance.
Regardless, there are a handful of producers
like Fattoria Monticino Rosso that consistently
produce excellent versions. This one offers rich
flavors of honey and pear fruit along with notes
of minerals and a nice zip of acidity. There’s
also just a slight touch of sweetness making
this an especially good warm weather white
that’s great alone or with food. A very pleasant
taste of Emilia Romagna at a very nice price.
$12.98
750ml [303234]
VENICA 2009 SAUVIGNON “RONCO
DELLE MELE”
We’ve said it before and we’ll
say it again that this is one of Italy’s finest
Sauvignons. It’s simply outstanding and although
there may be nothing new to report, this wine
always seems like a revelation each year when we
open a bottle of the latest vintage. It opens
with powerful, intoxicating aromas of
gooseberry, lemon, minerals and a whiff of mint
and continues on with a fleshy, fresh and
intensely flavored palate of lemon/lime citrus,
saline and a very long finish. A sublime white
wine.
$29.98
750ml [373036]
FEUDO D’ELIMI 2007 NERO
D’AVOLA
Named after an ancient population known as the
Elimi who migrated from Greece to Sicily in the
7th
Century B.C. and lived in the western Sicily for
400 years. It is believed they began the
winemaking of today having brought cuttings of
vines from Greece. This awesome value red opens
with aromas of blackberry, plum and dried
tobacco and continues on the palate with warm,
plummy berry fruit flavors layered with hints of
licorice and spice. It’s medium-to-full-bodied
with soft tannins and perfect with a wide
variety of foods. It’s tough to find higher
quality, unmanipulated table wines at this price
and we’re sure you’ll love this outstanding
value red.
$9.98
750ml [303236]
TORRE QUARTO 2007 UVA DI TROIA
Although Puglia is one of Italy’s
largest producing wine regions, we are far more
selective when it comes to this zone for a
number of reasons. Although the wines continue
to improve as vineyard and cellar practices are
upgraded and newer wineries arise, there are
still far fewer wineries here that hold our
attention and Torre Quarto is definitely among
them. Their outstanding Uva di Troia is fresh
and juicy with loads of savory, peppery berry
fruit flavors with notes of spice and dried
herbs. It’s a well-made table red that is an
intriguing alternative to the sweeter California
Zins or the Côtes du Rhône style reds out there
and represents just what so many of our
customers appreciate about great regional
Italian reds. A treat from Southern Italy.
$13.98
750ml [302457]
GIOVANNI ALMONDO 2007 ROERO
ROSSO
We’ve been on the lookout for a
good, under $20 Nebbiolo and we finally came
across one we liked during our recent travels in
Piemonte. Many of the Roero Nebbiolos made today
are now being aged in new small French barrels
and are definitely over-oaked. This is mainly
due to the fact that this sub-region of Piemonte
has very sandy soils which yield lighter, more
elegant wines that do not respond well to
excessive new oak. Fortunately, some wine
producers (including Almondo) recognize this and
are crafting excellent Nebbiolos like this one.
This irresistible red is juicy and fresh with
very tasty cherry fruit flavors, bright acidity
and ripe tannins. It’s classic Nebbiolo from
start to finish and is a fantastic introduction
to those who’ve never tried this varietal.
$13.98
750ml [303237]
GIUSEPPE GABBAS 2007 CANNONAU
DI SARDEGNA “LILLOVE”
Since the publicizing of areas of
the World categorized as “Blue Zones.”
“Scientists and demographers have classified
these longevity hot-spots by having common
healthy traits and life practices that result in
higher-than-normal longevity. The name Blue zone
seems to be first employed in a scientific
article by a team of demographers working on
centenarians in Sardinia in 2004.” As a result
we thought we’d offer one of the better value
Cannonaus from Sardegna as we’ve had numerous
recent requests. Gabbas vinifies this delicious
wine in stainless steel and the result is a
wonderfully aromatic red with polished, round
black raspberry fruit laced with notes of exotic
spices and a savory fruit-driven finish. It’s
the ideal Summertime red that’s perfect with
pizza, grilled meats, BBQ, pastas and cheeses.
$19.98
750ml [303235]
VILLA DORA 2005 LACRYMA CRISTI
ROSSO “GELSONERO”
There are a number of Lacryma
Cristi whites in the market but we haven’t come
across a really good Lacryma Rosso until this
gem arrived recently. Volcanic soils make for
interesting wines, and many of Campania’s famous
terroirs are of volcanic origin. Mount Vesuvius
is an active volcano just east of Naples, and
the organically farmed vineyards of Villa Dora
are on the lower slopes of the volcano, inside
the national park that surrounds it. The soil,
ground-up pumice really, looks like black
Grape-Nuts, and the wines are strikingly
flavorful and distinctive. “Gelsonero” is
produced from (organically grown) 80% Piedirosso
and 20% Aglianico. It’s a very charming regional
red with a broad reddish-black color and a
subtle smoky aroma with a hint of tar along with
delicious flavors of blackberry and black cherry
on the palate accented by savory herb notes.
Although it’s medium-weight it’s light on its
feet and it’s a terrific red for almost any
occasion. Especially great with meats.
$21.98
750ml [303238]
FONTALEONI 2009 VERNACCIA DI SANGIMIGNANO
This Vernaccia sold like wildfire last year so
we are pleased to inform that the 2009 is
another winner. Fontaleoni manages to produce an
exceptional value Vernaccia with a bit more
richness and depth than most wines produced from
this varietal. There’s no shortage of freshness,
however, as the wine has ample acidity and cut--
making it clean and crisp on the finish. Fresh
aromas of pear, citrus and florals accompany a
refreshing palate offering a hint of salinity
and excellent length. Perfect with seafood
pastas and grilled shrimp, the wine also pairs
well with lighter meats, fish and is delicious
on its own.
$13.98
750ml [303058]
CANTINA DEL TABURNO 2008 FALANGHINA
Considering the number of growers
this winery sources fruit from we’re always
impressed with the quality of this consistently
well-made Falanghina from Italy’s Campania
region. It’s one of those wonderful regional
Italian wines that our customers can’t get
enough of. Whether it’s the pleasing aromas of
acacia flowers and white peaches or the fresh
and tasty palate, this terrific white is hard to
beat on a warm afternoon. Ideal with fish,
vegetable dishes, sandwiches, cold cuts and
lighter soups.
We featured this wine in a recent
email offering and thought it deserved another
mention. Tenuta Luisa continues to turn out very
exciting value-packed white wines and their 2008
Pinot Grigio is simply irresistible. Considering
the myriad of Pinot Grigio labels that have
flooded the US market in recent years, it’s a
bit more work for us to cull out the gems,
especially under $20. However, a few exist and
this is definitely among them.
2008 was an especially great year
for white wines in Italy and the Luisa family
managed to exploit those ideal conditions and
produce some really outstanding wines. This
opulent, rich-yet-fresh Pinot Grigio boasts
inviting aromas of roasted nut, tropical fruit
and sage and a round, creamy palate with just
the right touch of acidity to balance it out.
As we mentioned, there are many
average Pinot Grigios out there but Tenuta
Luisa’s is outstanding and worth every penny.
It’s a great accompaniment to fish, poultry and
vegetable dishes, appetizers, ham and fresh
cheeses yet is simply delicious on its own.
$14.98
750ml [304003]
Musella 2008 Bianco del Drago Verona
This delicious, easy to drink dry
white is a blend of low yield Garganega (90%)
and Chardonnay (10%) from the hills northeast of
Verona (you may know Garganega as the best of
the grape varieties used to make Soave in the
Veneto). The two varieties were harvested and
vinified separately, both in stainless steel.
The wines were aged on their lees in stainless
steel tanks. This white is fresh and aromatic
with apple and pear flavors followed by a crisp
minerality in the finish. It will accompany
appetizers and lighter fish, seafood or chicken
dishes.
The history of the Musella
family, the first owners of the estate, dates
back to the 16th century. In the second half of
the 19th century Count Cesare Trezza di Musella
introduced innovative systems for planting and
growing vineyards. The current owners began a
thorough and meticulous restoration of the
vineyards, villa and surrounding property in
1995. They found the dragon design on a wall
sconce intended to hold a torch in the old wine
cave. Now this dragon is their logo.
$15.95
750ml [303186]
MANINCOR 2007 PINOT BLANC CHARDONNAY
SAUVIGNON “RISERVA DELLA CONTESSA”
You’ll rarely come across a classier wine
producer than Count Michael Goëss-Enzenberg,
proprietor of Manincor. His winery is situated
in the Bolzano area of Italy’s Alto Adige region
and is among the best estates in this alpine
zone where some of Italy’s top and most
long-lived white wines hail from. We had the
pleasure of tasting this classy blend during his
recent visit to the US and it met with unanimous
staff approval!! We were surprised to discovery
that it is fermented and aged entirely in large
oak barrels as it’s not the least bit oaky. The
wine opens with lifted aromas of minerals,
saline and subtle fruit notes and continues on
to a creamy yet fresh palate with great
intensity and length for a wine at this price.
There’s far more we’d like to say here but
there’s just not enough room so we recommend
checking out his website
www.manincor.com!
$20.98
750ml [303996]
PUNTA CRENA 2008 PIGATO “CA DA RENA”
For those interested in venturing
farther north to Italy’s Liguria region, we are
pleased to offer this outstanding Pigato from
the Kermit Lynch portfolio. A number of
customers who’ve tried this wine have made it a
point to let us know how much they enjoyed it
and we definitely share their sentiments. It’s
one of those really well-crafted local Italian
whites you’d be lucky to come across on a
vacation in Liguria that offers that extra
dimension of pleasure that makes you hope it’s
available back in the US. In this case it is!
We like what Kermit had to say
about it: “Contrary to popular belief, Pigato is
not the same grape as Vermentino/Rolle but a
sort of cousin variety cultivated only in
Liguria and named after its pigmented, freckled
skin. Lively and fresh like the Vermentino,
Pigato has a bit more depth and dimension, more
punch and an irresistible friendliness. Like all
of Punta Crena’s wines, it is wickedly easy to
down. When I open this Pigato for French
winemakers, they are dazzled, especially by its
complex aromatics.”
$15.98
750ml [303977]
TERENZUOLA 2009 VERMENTINO “COLLI DI LUNI”
We’ve enjoyed the wines of this young estate in
recent years but their 2009 Vermentino made us
take notice. In our opinion the wines of this
property have really taken a jump in quality of
late and this wine is proof. Terenzuola is
located in Tuscany in the vacinity of Liguria.
The maritime influences along with the soils of
the area yield a wine with regional flavor and
subtlety. Mineral and floral aromas complement a
light to medium-bodied palate with delicious
fruit, crisp acidity and a long finish. You’ll
want to roll out the grill and cook up some fish
or shellfish with this one or have a glass while
your readying brunch or dinner. Either way it’s
an exciting regional white that brings a taste
of Tuscany to your table.
$17.98
750ml [303225]
TENUTA SAN FRANCESCO 2008 BIANCO D’AMALFI
This small, artisan estate was
founded by three families committed to the
preservation of some of the oldest existing pre-phylloxera
vines along the Amalfi Coast. Many of the grape
vines planted on the coastal hillsides had been
abandoned and left to grow wild and these
dedicated friends decided to revive and preserve
them before they were lost. This fantastic
Amalfi white is produced from Falanghina,
Biancolella and Pepella grapes and is a real
treat indeed. It offers distinctive minerally
aromas nuanced with notes of florals, honey,
saline and soft fruit and an intriguing
medium-bodied palate of minerally fruit with
crisp acidity. This rare white is simply a
pleasure to drink with or without food and
represents what is so special about Italy’s
diverse landscape.
$18.98
750ml [302975]
Spain – The Eguren
Family
Look who's coming to Hi-Time... Eduardo
Eguren of Spain’s famed Eguren family. While
you might not know their names, if you are a
Spanish wine lover you’ve probably run
across the wines of the Eguren family—from
the value and dependability of Protocolo, to
the venerable Rioja estate of Sierra
Cantabria, to the critically acclaimed
single vineyard wines San Vicente, El
Puntido, La Nieta and more. The Egurens were
the ones who purchased several small parcels
of old vines and established Termes/Numanthia
in Toro. In 2008, the Eguren family sold
their famous Toro Bodega, but by that time,
the family had purchased 26 small vineyards
in the appellation and had already built the
winery for their next project in Toro: Teso
de la Monja. The 2007s we are offering from
Teso de la Monja are the first vintage of
these new wines. Please join us at the Wine
Bar on Saturday 6/19 to meet Eduardo Eguren
and taste a range of the family’s wines, or
if you prefer, sit back and read here and
we’ll give you a quick tour of their many
fine wines.
The Rioja Estates - The Egurens are known as excellent farmers
and vineyard hunters. Today they own five
small winery facilities in Rioja and over
420 acres of vineyards in the region. The
Egurens have been growing Tempranillo in the
limestone-clay soils of the Rioja Alavesa
zone since 1870, slowly building their
vineyard holdings parcel by parcel.
Guillermo Eguren, the family’s 3rd
generation, was the first to bottle the
family’s wine instead of simply selling it
in bulk, creating the Sierra Cantabria label
in 1957. Winemaker, Marcos Eguren, notes
that despite the many holdings those five
separate wineries help keep things
decentralized and boutique in scale, “Big
things always end up worse. I don’t like
big. I like small, exclusive,
well-considered. The big way is for big
businessmen. We’re farmers.”
Sierra Cantabria Crianza 2005, Rioja
With 140 years of history, the
Eguren family has seen the wine industry change
many times in Rioja and they make wines in both
the “traditional” and “modernist” styles. This
Crianza stays close to tradition with a slight
brick-orange color at the rim and fine spices
(think ginger and cardamom) on the nose. Look
for that beautiful spiciness to flow neatly into
hints of earth, sandalwood, and moderate oak
complimenting a core of blackberry and plumy
Tempranillo fruit. The “modern” style of Rioja
is often bigger, but we really enjoy the length,
balance, and layers of aroma in traditionally
styled Rioja like this Crianza.
$14.99
750ml [377143]
Señorio San Vincente 2006, Rioja
This is consistently our favorite
single vineyard bottling from the Eguren family.
Planted in 1985, the “La Canoca” vineyard was
developed to highlight virtues of the rare
Tempranillo Pelludo clone, known for tiny
berries and complex aromatics. The clone is
temperamental and low yielding so when San
Vincente debuted with the 1991 vintage, it was
the only wine of its kind. The 2006 bottling
recently received 93 points from the Wine
Advocate, noting, “it offers up a brooding
bouquet of wood smoke, pencil lead, licorice,
plum, and blackberry. Opulent and rich on the
palate with layers of succulent fruit, it has
6-8 years of aging potential and should be at
its best from 2016 to 2026.”
$54.99
750ml [380858]
Protocolo—La Mancha & more
We’ve sold the Protocolo
wines for many years at Hi-Time and the
value has always been excellent. The estate
is in the appellation of La Mancha, but the
label reads “Vino de la Tierra de Castilla.”
This designation allows for blending from
the family’s younger vine holdings in Toro
and Rioja—an interesting twist that allows
for a bit of extra quality in the winery.
Protocolo Rosado 2008
We like this advice from Jay
McInerney, novelist and converted wine writer:
“Anyone who starts analyzing the taste of a rosé
in public should be thrown into the pool
immediately.” This Protocolo is unfussy and fun
with a mix of rose petals, strawberries and
summery zest. If you’ve always wanted to throw
your favorite critic in the pool, chances are
they deserve it, as we’ve seen many
complimentary reviews from serious critics
writing about this little rosé.
$4.98
750ml [301570]
Protocolo Tinto 2007
As we noted above, a Protocolo has been a
fixture at Hi-Time for many years and at the
price it’s easy to see why. The Protocolo
delivers roasted herbs, pepper and black
cherries in a smooth and satisfying glass of
wine. We pulled out the calculator, converted
the winery’s numbers on hectoliters per hectare
numbers to good old American measurements, and
discovered the yields on the estate are less
than 2 tons/acre. Moreover, the estate is at
2,700 feet of elevation, ensuring a balance of
acidity that keeps the wine fresh and sustains
the perfume. No wonder we always like this wine!
$5.98
750ml [378447]
Protocolo “Codice” Tinto 2007
Like the regular Protocolo Tinto
the “Codice” is 100% Tempranillo. The primary
difference is a darker color from longer skin
contact in the cellar and more noticeable oak.
Codice shows a darker shade of black cherry with
more fine spices and a smoky, mineral thread.
$9.95
750ml [380860]
Toro—Announcing Teso de la Monja
It seems most American
consumers had their first exciting
experience with the Tempranillo wines of
Toro with the Termes/Numanthia collection of
wines. Guillermo Eguren, the family
patriarch at 77 years of age, has continued
buying vineyard land every year as a hobby
or compulsion or present to himself. When
the Egurens sold Termes/Numanthia in 2008,
they owned 26 vineyards in Toro, they had
already completed a new winery in the
region, and they already had the first
vintage of the new Teso de la Monja wines in
barrel. But with so many distinct parcels,
Termes/Numathia and Teso de la Monja are
very different. Termes/Numanthia aims always
to achieve maximum power and depth in a “I
didn’t know Tempranillo could be so inky”
kind of style. Teso de la Monja is plenty
big, but shows softer tannins and more
elegance and subtle perfume.
Teso de la Monja “Almirez” 2007 Toro
We don’t usually write up wines
twice in one vintage and Teso de la Monja
“Almirez” got plenty of ink in December as one
of our top wines of the year. So at the risk of
repeating ourselves… this wine is really, really
delicious. There is a liqueur-like texture to
the fruit here—satiny, ripe and long—with
raspberry and black cherry notes. The nose
delivers a mix of spices and high-tone hibiscus
flower perfume that reappear and weave nicely
throughout the flavors on the palate. Robert
Parker and The Wine Advocate gave this
first release of “Almirez” 91 points, noting “It
is an excellent value that over-delivers in a
big way.”
$29.95
750ml [380781]
Teso de la Monja “Victorino” 2007 Toro
While Almirez is all satin and
spice, Victorino is darker, smokier and more
minerally. Victorino is amazingly open for such
a big, structured wine. All that blackberry
fruit and richness can’t be wrong, can it? But
with proper cellaring this is the kind of wine
that can go another 15-20 years and still not
show you all its secrets. Part of the story here
is un-grafted vines. Like most places in the
world, the vineyard-pest phylloxera is in nearly
every vineyard in Europe, meaning nearly every
vine in Spain (as elsewhere) is grafted for
protection. Toro’s sandy soils ensure that there
are pockets of land where phylloxera cannot live
and the vines can be “own-rooted.” We’ve heard a
handful of top producers speak reverently about
the aromatic complexities of un-grafted vines
and perhaps this explains the immediate beauty
and “wow” factor of this wine. Then again, it
could be the intense hand-de-stemming practices
of the Eguren family or the ridiculously low
yields of 0.6 tons/acre. The Wine Advocate
score for this wine is 92+ points, a very good
showing for a first vintage, but we think this
wine may even be better than its score.
$59.95
750ml [380471]
Spanish
Rosé
Quo 2009 Grenache Campo De Borja, Spain
This is the time of year for rosé and, though we
have a pageful of excellent French rosés in the
front of the newsletter (see
here), this little
Spaniard endeared itself to us quite readily
(and easily, we must add). How? Quite simple--
Quo charmed us. The color is a vivid ruby, ripe
strawberry red that instantly catches the eye.
The nose is redolent with strawberry and cherry
fruits, rose bud and a hint of lemon zest. The
palate continues the show-- the mouthfeel is
luxuriously viscous and fat and, with the
brilliant fresh fruit flavors (more mixed
berries, strawberry), might make you think this
is more of a sweet rosé. It is, instead,
pleasantly dry and will go well with a myriad of
summer foods from light grilled fare to meats
and cheeses to a grand aioli fête. The
finish lingers and leaves a wondrous flavor of
strawberries with a hint of cream-- simply
delicious and perfect for the season.
$8.95
750ml [380836]
Greece
MERCOURI ESTATE 2009 FOLOI WHITE PISATIS, GREECE
This charming dry white, named after Mount Foloi,
is made from a blend of Roditis and Viognier
grown on a plateau that is 650 meters above sea
level. Pale in color, this white is highly
aromatic. The nose displays fruits and flowers;
on the palate you find very pleasant stone fruit
flavors (white peaches or nectarines); the
finish is clean and dry with crisp acidity. This
will accompany appetizers by the pool or light
fish, seafood and chicken dishes.
Located in the Western Peloponnese, the Mercouri
Estate was founded in 1860 and the first vines,
cuttings from Italy, were planted in 1870. In
1990, the third and fourth generations of the
Mercouri family began replanting the vineyards
and renovated and modernized the winery. Their
white and red wines are becoming well known on
the international market.
$16.98
750ml [300036]
Visiting Australia
By Ann Doyle Stephens
I
was fortunate to spend the last two weeks of
September 2009 visiting Australia. It is a big
country, so my friend and I had to choose what
we most wanted to see. We flew from LAX to
Melbourne where we spent a few days overcoming
jet lag and enjoying that city. We took a
commercial tour to the nearby Yarra Valley to
visit some wineries. The best winery the tour
visited was Domaine Chandon Australia. We
next flew to the outback to see Uluru (Ayers
Rock) and the surrounding desert. That was
fascinating. Next stop was Adelaide where we
rented a car so we could visit the surrounding
wine areas. Driving on the other side of the
road was definitely a challenge!
First stop was McLaren Vale where
were very impressed by the wines of d’Arenberg
and Hugo Estate. The next morning, we drove
through the Adelaide Hills where we stopped at
the Bird in Hand Winery. Then on to the Eden
Valley where we visited Yalumba, Australia’s
oldest family-owned winery. From there we
dropped down into the Barossa Valley where we
visited Penfold’s and Turkey Flat. The next day
we drove about an hour and a half to the Clare
Valley where we stopped at the Jim Barry winery
and then had lunch with Mall Lawson and his
family. Then it was a race to the Adelaide
airport (two hours or so away) to get the rental
car returned on time.
We then flew to Kangaroo Island
just off the coast from Adelaide. Fantastic
wildlife viewing there! We spent just an
afternoon in Sydney before flying back to LAX. A
whirlwind trip but most enjoyable. I fell in
love with Australia and definitely hope to
return.
This month we are featuring wines
from just two of the outstanding wineries I
visited. We hope to spotlight the other wineries
in the future.
LAWSON WINES
Lawson Wines is a very small, family-owned,
boutique wine company. Matt Lawson is a
viticulturalist who manages vineyards in several
wine growing regions across Australia. He
couldn’t resist making some wine on his own and
managed to borrow space at a friend’s winery to
work on his project.
He sources his Barossa Valley Shiraz from select
low yielding vineyards (only 1 to 3 tons per
acre!). He believes in minimal intervention and
letting the fruit speak for itself. The grapes
are fermented in small open fermenters, hand
plunged, and left on the skins for as long as
possible. He tries to match the power of the
fruit with oak to find a balance that will
combine to age gracefully for at least 10 years.
The wines are bottled without filtration.
We had carried Matt’s wine several years ago and
loved the quality and rich flavors. When I
recently visited Matt Lawson and his family at
their vineyard-adjacent home in the Clare
Valley, I was blown away by how well the 2004
and 2003 Reserve have developed and how
delicious they are now. Upon my return, we set
about sourcing these wines for the store as we
think our customers will love these reds.
Lawson Wines 2004 Barossa
ShiraZ The 2004 vintage was exceptional. Thanks to a
mild summer and long dry autumn, Shiraz achieved
optimum ripeness. The wine is powerful, fruit
driven, full bodied and very smooth. Robert
Parker gave this a 93 point rating and praised
its power and density but also its nuances,
elegance and sweetness.
ROBERT PARKER 93
POINTS - "The 2004
Shiraz reveals an opaque purple color as well as
more nuances, elegance, and sweetness than the
Reserve, but just as much power, muscle, and
density. It should drink well for 10-15 years."
$22.98
750ml [378202]
Lawson Wines 2003 Barossa Valley Vintage
Reserve Shiraz
The fruit for this icon wine was sourced from
the Ebenezer vineyard in the northwest corner of
the Barossa Valley. This is a 50-year-old
vineyard of hand-tended and handpicked Shiraz
vines. Mild temperatures and a long, dry autumn
allowed the grapes to reach perfect ripeness and
exceptional color.
ROBERT PARKER 92 POINTS
- "This limited (approximately 250 cases) cuvee
of Shiraz from 50-year-old vines in the Ebenezer
Vineyard is aged 30 months in primarily American
wood, and is bottled with minimal filtration.
The result is a terrific, ageworthy Shiraz. The
dense purple-hued, full-bodied, deep 2003 Shiraz
Vintage Reserve possesses loads of flavor, great
intensity, super richness, and a long, heady
finish. Drink it over the next 10-15 years."
It is a real treat to drink
Australian reds that have some bottle maturity.
Both these wines will accompany beef and lamb
dishes beautifully.
$27.95
750ml [379906]
HUGO 2002 RESERVE SHIRAZ McLAREN VALE One of our stops was with the Hugos where I had
a chance to taste through upcoming releases and
some of their library wines. Hugo Wines is
situated in the McLaren Vale wine region about
40 minutes south of Adelaide and not far from
the sea. We are delighted to bring this Reserve
bottling to our customers.
The winery is owned by John and Elizabeth Hugo,
two of the nicest people you will ever meet.
They and their two sons work the vineyard/winery
and run a few head of cattle too. John’s father,
Colin Hugo, planted the original vines starting
in 1950. John took over the family vineyard in
1970 and produced his first Shiraz in 1979.
The Hugo vineyard of approximately 30 hectares
is planted to Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay,
Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and
Grenache. John and Liz strive for consistent
high quality and the fact that all of the fruit
is estate grown makes that job easier. The soils
are predominantly red loam over a subsoil of
clay. The climate, influenced by their proximity
to the coast, is a major factor in maintaining
the quality of the wines produced by the Hugo
family.
The Reserve Shiraz is made from the oldest dry
grown Shiraz vines on the property. When the old
vine Shiraz grapes are processed the wine is
kept separate, and barrel fermented in new
American and French oak hogsheads that have been
seasoned for two years. The decision to bottle
that wine under the Reserve Label is not made
until the finished product is assessed.
The 2002 vintage was relatively cool giving this
wine great aging ability. This Reserve bottling
was praised by Robert Parker for its dark
color and “...aromas of sweet plum, black
currant and cherry fruit interwoven with notes
of licorice, scorched earth and vanilla.” Parker
suggests the wine will drink well now and hold
until 2014.
$22.98
750ml [379907]
Australia -
Aramis
Looking at
the category of Australian wine today, you’d
think that nearly everyone has given up on
them in favor of other areas in other
countries, especially those who’ve never
bothered to try them. The flood of
low-priced, high production wines as well as
an obsession with high-scoring, monolithic
style fruit bombs discouraged most from
really discovering what Australia has to
offer. We were once again reminded of this
when Lee Flourentzou of Aramis vineyards
dropped by recently to share his latest wine
releases with us.
Lee pursued his passion to produce rich and
intensely flavored red wines when he
purchased a 70-acre plot of land, 7 km
outside of the township of McLaren Vale back
in 1998. He now has 64 acres planted, the
majority of which is dedicated Shiraz and
Cabernet Sauvignon vines. His goal is to
make wines with ripe (not overripe or
port-like) savory fruit with fresh acidity
and good aging potential that over-deliver
at their price point. After sampling his
reds we’d have to agree that he’s
accomplished his goal.
Admittedly we love California reds as much
as anyone but we’d like to point out that
Australia has some seriously great wines to
offer at very affordable prices. Considering
the rise in domestic wine prices of late, we
encourage any and all Shiraz and Cabernet
fans to venture out. Any of the wines of
Aramis would be a great place to start.
ARAMIS 2007 SHIRAZ
CABERNET “WHITE LABEL”
This impressive blend packs more than
expected into a bottle at this price and we
like the way the winery describes it:
“Exhibits a deep ruby/purple colour. The
nose offers mulberries, blackberries and
plums with layers of dark chocolate, toasty
oak and wafts of fresh mint. On the palate
blueberry, black raspberry and tarry
characteristics, wonderful intensity, supple
integrated fruit, tannins and a long finish,
all in balance with the alcohol.” A really
tasty red at a very affordable price. What
else can we say?
$13.98
750ml [380005]
ARAMIS 2005 SHIRAZ
“BLACK LABEL,” MCCLAREN VALE
WINE ADVOCATE 91 POINTS
- "The 2005 Black Label Shiraz is a
saturated purple color. It offers a
captivating nose of balsam wood, smoke,
spice box, scorched earth, and blue fruits.
On the palate it is sweetly fruited, dense,
and layered, with a pure, lingering finish."
This is a knockout deal under $20! A classic
McClaren Vale with intensely layered black
fruits with delicious notes of cherry and
chocolate enveloped by smooth tannins and a
savory freshness. The palate is rich and
round with great length on the finish and
simply impressive at this price. One of the
best Aussie Shiraz deals we’ve come across
in some time. A STAFF FAVORITE for sure.
$16.98
750ml [379908]
ARAMIS
2005 CABERNET SAUVIGNON “BLACK LABEL,”
MCCLAREN VALE WINE
ADVOCATE 91 POINTS
- "The purple-colored 2005 Black Label
Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits a nose of earth,
tar, spice box, black currant, and
blackberry. This leads to a medium-bodied
Cabernet with plenty of savory fruit,
serious depth, and impeccable balance.
Already showing some complexity, it will
continue to add nuance with several more
years of cellaring. Drink it from 2011 to
2020."
Regardless of how many great wines are
available today, Cabernet arguably remains
king in terms of popularity by a long shot.
That’s why when we come across one this good
under $20 we’re quick to get the word out.
Aramis has crafted a beauty that boasts
seriously delicious black currant and
blackberry flavors in a
medium-to-full-bodied frame with wonderful
balance and complexity. Considering the tab
these days for good domestic Cabernet, we’re
all over this one.
$16.98
750ml [379909]
Discovering GrUner Veltliner
In the words of iconic importer Terry Theise,
Grüner Veltliner (pronounced:
groo-nuhr-velt-LEE-nuhr) occupies "a
permanent place in the pantheon of important
grapes, and a prominent place among food's
best friends." Austria's most-planted grape
variety, it is well-beloved the world over
for its singular, unique personality: white
pepper, flowers, citrus fruits, lentils and
an often bracing minerality. It's one of the
world's most outstanding values in dry white
wine and one of its most distinctive.
Something of a wonder among white grape
varietals for its near preternatural ability
to pair successfully with everything you’re
not supposed to be able to pair wine with –
asparagus, artichokes, avocado, shrimp,
peppery greens, vegetarian cuisine, etc. –
this noble varietal is still relatively
unknown to most American wine drinkers.
We, of course, think this is a shame. With
its incredible versatility at the table, its
outstanding value, and its ultra-hip caché
(particularly in the 90s, GrüVe was the hot
thing with the sommelier set), there's
simply nothing like it in the world of wine.
We have, therefore, chosen to highlight four
Grüner Veltliners, three from importer Terry
Theise and one from Blue Danube. So, see for
yourself- and perhaps soon, as Terry Theise
once notoriously predicted, you'll be asking
yourself: "What did we used to drink before
we knew about this stuff?"
Berger 2009 Grüner Veltliner 1L
Yes, folks, this wine comes in a (1.0) liter
bottle, which means you get to have 33% more
fun! Representing the fresh, crisp and
refreshingly tangy side of Grüner Veltliner
in the perennially-popular liter format,
this is the bottling that Terry Theise calls
the "class of the [liter] category." And
although Terry actually has several
excellent GrüVe liters to choose from, this
is our favorite. Dry, crisp, and impeccably
clean, this wine delivers delicious flavors
of white flowers, pepper, and pink
grapefruit, underscored by an attractive
leesiness - quintessential value Grüner
Veltliner. And we love the
un-ceremoniousness of the crown cap!
$12.95
750ml [306004]
Hirsch 2008 Grüner Veltliner “Veltliner #1”
Hannes Hirsch used to be considered
something of a Wunderkind in Austria's
Kamptal region, but no more- he is now
unanimously considered one of the best
producers in all of Austria. Producing only
Riesling and Grüner Veltliner according to
bio-dynamic principles, he consistently
achieves critical acclaim for his much
sought-after single-vineyard bottlings from
Gaisberg, Heiligenstein, and Lamm.
The Grüner Veltliner #1 is Hirsch's
entry-level Grüner, from a selection of
organically-cultivated sites, including some
fruit purchased from local growers. Always
with a whimsical cartoon deer featured on
the label ("Hirsch" is German for "deer"),
the #1 is an outstanding example of Grüner
Veltliner in a sort of intermediate category
- deeper and more complex than the typical
liter bottling, but still fresh, young and
vibrantly citrusy. This wine also offers
interesting smoky-mineral notes, hints of
toasted pine-nut and mouth-watering stone
fruit flavors, which offer additional layers
of complexity. A great example of Grüner in
its price category.
$16.95
750ml [307007]
Nikolaihof 2007 Grüner
Veltliner Im Weingebirge Federspiel
Last, but certainly not least, of the Terry
Theise three, comes this outstanding Grüner
Veltliner from the legendary estate whom
many consider to be the greatest in Austria.
Nikolaihof, on the south side of the Danube
in Austria’s famous Wachau region, was
founded in 985, and was actually the first
winery to be certified as biodynamic by
Demeter. One of Austria’s most traditional
estates, many of their wines are fermented
in large wooden vats, and a few are even
pressed in a restored 300-year-old tree
press, the largest of its kind in all of
Europe.
The 2007 Grüner Veltliner Im Weingebirge
Federspiel (Federspiel is a measure of
must-weight used in the Wachau roughly
equivalent to Kabinett) comes from a famous
vineyard called "Im Weingebirge" that has
been cultivated continuously since the
eleventh century, making it the oldest
vineyard in central Europe. Terry Theise
singled this wine out as his “wine of the
vintage” in his catalog, and David
Schildknecht of The Wine Advocate awarded it
93 points, commenting: “The 2007 Gruner
Veltliner Federspiel Im Weingebirge is
another remarkably buoyant and poised
Nikolaihof triumph. Lentil, rhubarb, lemon,
white peach, plum distillate, and tobacco
are among the elements that come wreathed in
flowers and smoke, and underlain by savory,
saline, scallop-like suggestions. That
striking mineral melange, combined with
sheer extract, give this wine a mysterious
sense of sweetness, even though it is
analytically as dry as it is delicate. If
you think lightness isn't compatible with
profundity of flavor, this -little- wine
will set you straight! 93 Points.” Limited
supply.
$34.95
750ml [308007]
Geyerhof 2008 Grüner Veltliner Rosensteig,
Austria
This bottling, sourced entirely from the
organically farmed Rosensteig vineyard, was
chosen as a Wine of the Week by Los Angeles
Times restaurant critic, S. Irene Virbila:
“Fresh and crisp with classic notes of green
apple, pear and white pepper, the …
‘Rosensteig’ is a tremendous buy at less
than $20 and a great introduction to this
Austrian varietal. Its flavor profile means
it drinks beautifully with raw shellfish,
Dungeness crab, and seafood salads and
pasta”. She also suggests that sushi and
steamed mussels or clams would go well with
this delicious, dry, flavorful white. Like
many wines finished with a Stelvin closure
to avoid the risk of cork taint, this white
blossoms with a few minutes of air.
The Geyerhof Winery is located on the
southern slopes of the Danube Valley in the
Kremstal appellation. The winery was founded
in 1600. Ilse Maier took over her family’s
property in 1986. She and her husband,
Joseph, have converted their 19 hectares to
organic viticulture. All their wines are
vineyard designated, dry farmed and hand
harvested. Lees contact, barrel aging in
neutral oak and malolactic fermentation are
employed judiciously to add complexity to
the wines without masking the clean, fresh
apple and pear flavors of the grape variety.
$14.99
750ml [372419]
South
America
CUVELIER LOS ANDES 2006 GRAND MALBEC, Uco
Valley, Argentina WINE
ADVOCATE 95 POINTS
- "The deep purple-colored 2006 Grand Malbec
has a stunning aromatic display of pain
grille, mineral, espresso, black cherry, and
black raspberry. Large-scaled yet elegant on
the palate, it has gobs of succulent black
fruits, serious depth and concentration, and
enough stuffing to unfold for another 5-7
years. This lengthy, powerful effort's
drinking window should be open from 2014 to
2036. Cuvelier Les Andes is owned by
Bertrand and Jean-Guy Cuvelier, part owners
of Chateau Leoville-Poyferre in Saint-Julien.
The estate is located in the Uco Valley at
the foothills of the Andes and encompasses
115 acres of young vines (age 5 in the 2006
vintage). The consulting winemaker is Michel
Rolland."
$54.95
750ml [380436]
DOMINGO MOLINA 2006 CABERNET SAUVIGNON,
Salta, Argentina
Domingo Molina is located in the Northern
tip of Argentina’s wine growing region
called Salta. Some of the world highest
vineyard are from Salta Domingo Molina’s
cabernet vineyards are 6,600 feet above sea
level. The result is beauty and elegance
with underlying intensity. This
mouthwatering 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is
dark scarlet in color with hues of deep
purple. Aromas are of black plum and
cherries with a touch of exotic indian
spices. Its body is Medium with a vigorous
personality, while maintaining its elegance
and a prolonged finish. Domingo Molina has
kept the integrity of pure Cabernet by using
natural yeasts, and only 30% of the wine
sees french oak for 6 months. The wine was
not filterd in order to maintain its
complexity. A new experience for Cabernet
lovers!
$15.98
750ml [377230]
Pascual Toso 2007 Alta Reserve Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina
Malbec is the hottest wine out of Argentina,
and Pascual Toso is consistently producing
the best quality Malbec in all of South
America. The 2007 Alta Reserve Malbec is a
rare, iconic gem that captures the alluring,
sensual quality of Malbec. A passionate,
rich red color, the Alta Malbec has the
fruity fragrance of blackberry and dark
stone fruit. On the palate, it has soft,
supple tannins with mocha and spice
reminiscent to a seductive Argentine tango
in your mouth. Featured as one of the Top 20
Malbecs in the February 2010 issue of Wine
Enthusiast, the Pascual Toso 2007 Alta
Reserve Malbec has the character and quality
that you deserve at your next dinner party.
Bring a taste of Argentina into your home!
Wine Enthusiast 93 Points
WINE SPECTATOR 92 POINTS
- "Offers gorgeous, dark, exotic layers of
fig sauce, melted licorice snap, crushed
blackberry and bittersweet chocolate
flavors, all laid seamlessly over
supervelvety tannins. The long finish lets
it all hang out. Drink now through 2011."
$27.95
750ml [380820]
Bodegas O Fournier “Urban” Torrontes 2008
Cafayate, Argentina
First of all, we are smitten with Torrontes
and this has all the right ingredients: an
exciting producer, very high altitude
vineyards, yummy flavors, and a great price.
Founder José Manuel Ortega Gil-Fournier left
a career in banking in 2000 and started over
in the wine business with estate vineyards
in Argentina and his native Spain. He is a
dynamic speaker and a passionate advocate of
cooler climates—we wanted to love his wines
and when we tasted through the O Fournier
line-up the quality was impossible to deny.
There are many great things to come from
this producer. The “Urban” Torrontes shows
its cool climate credentials with fruit from
Cafayate in the northern province of Salta—at
5,700 feet these vineyards are among the
highest in the world, providing extra
perfume and layers. Look for tangerine and
nectarine fruit up front with Asian spice,
and a clean mineral snap to the finish.
Stylish and sophisticated, for sure, but
also fun enough to just drink by the pool.
$6.98
750ml [380821]
Noemia de Patagonia “A Lisa” Malbec 2008,
Rio Negro, Argentina
Malbec lovers will find something different
and very seductive here. Picture a perfume
that borrows from the prettiness of Pinot
Noir with pomegranate, violets, and fresh
red plum. The wine turns richer in the mouth
with blueberry and a touch of chocolate on
the mid-palate to the finish. Noemia de
Patagonia was created by winemaker Hans
Vinding-Diers, best known as the winemaker
for Argiano, the famed Brunello di
Montalcino estate in Italy. While consulting
for another winery, Vinding-Diers discovered
a parcel of Malbec planted in the 1930s and
a second parcel from the 1950s that make up
the heart of Neomia de Patagonia. A unique
part of the story here is Argentina’s Rio
Negro region in Patagonia. This is a cooler
area that is best known for growing apples,
much like Sonoma’s Russian River. There is a
similarity between the two regions in
brightness and purity of fruit. A little
over a year ago, Wine & Spirits magazine
picked Noemia de Patagonia as one of their
Top 100 Wineries of the world. There isn’t a
lot of wine from this estate, only 700 cases
of “A Lisa,” but we are also serious fans.
$21.95
750ml [380678]
Ben
Marco 2006 Expresivo Mendoza, Argentina
What a sexy wine! Are those pheromones in
the nose? Seriously, pheromones? Wow. The
fruit alone is pretty enough for a pin-up:
boysenberry and black currant overfloweth!
Add to this a bit of light spice, a touch of
florals (jasmine) and vanilla cola and call
it a day. But don't forget the palate! Inky
black fruits (black cherries and plums)
abound, balanced by good tannins and more
echoes from the nosing: vanillins, florals
(violets, lilac), wood spice. This is really
gorgeous wine; effusive and beautiful yet
muscularly taut, lithe. Grace and power
intertwined. Not that anyone cares all that
much about a wine's legs anymore, but these
would be insured for a million. Great with
food? Yes. Rich meats, charcuterie, stews,
barbecue, ostrich. Are we a bit smitten with
this one? You bet.
WINE ADVOCATE 92 POINTS
- "The
2006 Expresivo is a blend of 60% Malbec, 10%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah, 10% Petit
Verdot, and 10% Tannat aged 14 months in 70%
new French and 30% new American oak before
bottling without fining or filtration.
Purple-colored, it delivers a fragrant,
complex bouquet of wood smoke, baking
spices, black cherry, blackberry, and
blueberry. On the palate, notes of chocolate
and sandalwood emerge accompanied by a
layered, savory wine with tons of fruit, a
forward personality, and exceptional depth
and concentration. Drink this outstanding
effort from 2011 to 2020."
$29.95
750ml [380823]
Jean
Rivier 2008 Mendoza Malbec
With wines like these, Argentina will
continue to thrive in the spotlight as one
of the major up-and-coming wine regions in
the world. This 2008 Malbec hits all the
right notes with style and finesse. The nose
starts with bright solid raspberry/cherry
fruit, a touch of cherry cola, and a nice
dusting of spice. On the palate here’s our
first impression: “Wow.” Great fruit, solid,
extracted lovely cherry/berry notes with a
touch of spiciness, a light earthy
minerality and a touch of briar. Not
heavy-handed, but deft. Incredible fruit,
but not overly done. The vines date back to
1954 and it shows—a clear winner and very
enjoyable to drink. Will fit a range of
foods from red-sauced pastas, charcuterie to
pizza, grilled meats.
$11.95
750ml [380853]
Errazuriz Wild Ferment 2008 Chardonnay,
Casablanca, Chile
The weather is warming in time to really
enjoy this one though who knows how April
will shape up ultimately? To confess, we
will enjoy this one rain or shine as it
stands tall on its own. Native yeasts were
used in fermentation (hence the name “wild”)
which causes more stress upon the yeasts,
and more yeast strains were used, resulting
in different concentrations and by-product
proportions, adding distinctive flavors—and
therefore more complexity— to the wine. And
it clearly worked in a winning way. The nose
has forward stone fruits and a nice
spiciness. The palate has great viscosity
and mouth feel echoing the fruits from the
nose: nectarine, white peach. A nice amount
of acidity cuts through the palate weight
with a dose of river rock minerality and a
lasting, tasty finish. This is a beautiful
Chardonnay and will fit any white wine
yearning or dining agenda.
$14.98
750ml [378523]
ParGua II 2006 Red Blend, Maipo, chile
Another fantastic food wine, the Pargua
II leads with a nose of cherry cola,
boysenberry and assorted Jolly Rancher red
fruits. The palate starts soft with sweet
cherry and plum fruit but builds in fruit
character as well as tannins as it hits the
mid-palate. The finish is lovely with
outstanding minerality and a light touch of
sea salt juxtaposed with the slowly fading,
but still tasty, fruit tones.
WINE ADVOCATE 91 POINTS
- "The 2006 Pargua II is a blend of 50%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Carmenere, 15%
Syrah, and the balance Merlot, Cabernet
Franc, and Petit Verdot. Also produced from
organically grown grapes, the wine is
sweeter, riper, richer, and more
concentrated than its less expensive
sibling. Already complex, with another 3-4
years in the bottle to blossom, it will
provide exceptional drinking between 2013
and 2026."
$16.95
750ml [380851]
Aduentus Medditerraneo 2006, mendoza,
argentina
40% Malbec, 30/30% Tempranillo/Syrah
With an earthy nose tinged with brilliant
berry fruits (logan-, boysen-), the palate
echoes the berry fruits then adds a bit of
black plum, black berry and lovely, earthy
spices (clove, tobacco, underbrush). The
underlying acidity and big tannins mean this
will shine best with food; further, we would
recommend opening this before the salad is
served so it will be primed for the meat
course (say lamb or fatty beef dishes) as
the air will invigorate the mélange of
fruits and spices and let it really stand
out as it meshes with the meal.
$19.95
750ml [380806]
Italy
OUR TWO CENTS…
It’s no mistake that Italian
wines continue to sell well here and we
couldn’t be more pleased. Italy remains a
virtual breadbasket when it comes to
viticulture and anyone who has traveled
outside the bigger cities and into the
country knows that vines and wineries exist
throughout Italy. In every zone there are
numerous grape varietals and winemaking
practices along with local cultural
traditions and cuisine that make Italy more
than a little intriguing. The magic for us
is not only in offering the hallmark premium
wines like Barolo, Barbaresco, Brunello and
the like, but also in providing you with the
best possible regional wines and encouraging
you to explore them at the table. Since the
number of quality regional wines continue to
increase in availablility, the time for
Italian wines has never been better.
That being said, we’ve had
quite a lot of questions concerning the
current and upcoming vintages relating to
Tuscany and Piemonte and wanted to briefly
address them.
When it comes to Tuscany, the
2004 vintage was outstanding in Chianti but
a bit less so on Montalcino in our
estimation. There are certainly some
excellent Brunellos but they are fewer in
number and we bought accordingly. We think
some wine journalists were a bit generous
here in overstating the vintage. The 2005
vintage was a bit more problematic. There
are some wonderful Chiantis that are elegant
and ready to drink but it was a more
challenging vintage in terms of weather
conditions. This is especially true in
Montalcino where the 2005 Brunellos lack the
depth and structure normally associated with
the category. The 2005 Brunellos are lighter
and drinking early. 2006 for both Chianti
and Brunello is outstanding. We predict
there will be a lot of demand for the 2006
Brunellos releasing next year and we expect
the scores to be high.
For Piemonte, 2005 was a
difficult vintage. We recently spoke with
one prominent member of the wine press who
opined that 2005 is a very good vintage for
Barolo and we have to respectfully disagree.
There are some who made good wines but the
vast majority were affected by rains at
harvest and the resulting wines lack fruit
weight and depth. Barbaresco fared better in
our opinion as the top producers made some
very nice wines. The same journalist was not
as complimentary about the 2006 Barolos and
we once again have to disagree. Yes, there
were a few wineries that were unfortunately
affected by hail but the vast majority,
especially in Castiglione Falletto,
Seralunga and Monforte made very good wines
and we’re putting our money here rather than
2005.
TORRE DI LUNA 2006 CABERNET
No matter how much we may prefer to talk
about classic Italian varietals, we still
enjoy Cabernet as much as the next person.
We had been meaning to bring this wine in
some time ago but as with many others, we
lost track during the holidays.
When our distributor brought a sample by for us to taste
recently, we also poured it for several lucky customers who
happened by the wine bar and the consensus was a unanimous
“thumbs up.”
The wine comes to us from Italy’s Trentino zone in the northeast
just below Austria and is the value label for the Lechthaler
winery. It’s mostly Cabernet with Cabernet Franc and it offers
up delicious juicy spiced berry fruit with a nice touch of
earthiness making it versatile with a variety of foods. If you
like Cabernet and are in the market for an outstanding value,
pick a bottle or two. Great case purchase for parties and
gatherings.
$9.98
750ml [303964]
ODDERO 2007 DOLCETTO D’ALBA
Christina Oddero definitely cares about her
customers and continues to make her
outstanding wines available at really great
prices. We’ve sold a lot of this classic,
unoaked Dolcetto over the past two months
and wanted to bring it to the attention of
those who are too far to visit us. This
juicy red offers some very flavorful berry
and blue fruit with a touch of almond
characteristic of this varietal. It’s a
great everyday table wine that pairs well
with a wide variety of foods which is one of
the main reasons the Piemontese drink so
much of it. Outstanding value!
$10.98
750ml [302815]
VAJRA 2008 DOLCETTO D’ALBA
Those interested in a more premium Dolcetto
with a touch more depth and complexity will
want to try this outstanding offering from
Aldo Vajra. The Vajra’s are meticulous when
it comes to both farming and winemaking and
are committed to making the very best
traditional style wines possible. They have
a special affection for Dolcetto and it
shows. Antonio Galloni at the Wine Advocate
had this to say:
“The
2008 Dolcetto d’Alba is easily one of the finer Dolcettos in
this vintage. Medium in body, the wine offers up an attractive
array of perfumed black cherries, licorice and earthiness in a
soft, refined style. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. “
$17.98
750ml [303978]
LUCIGNANO 2007 CHIANTI COLLI FIORENTINI
We, along with a good number of customers,
have a special affection for this wonderful
Chianti that comes to us from Fattoria di
Lucignano, located just outside the border
of the Chianti Classico zone. The estate
makes a traditional Chianti matured entirely
in cement vats and the result is a vibrant,
soft and juicy red with delicious mixed
Cherry fruit and a nice zip of acidity. Due
to the warmth of the vintage, their 2007 is
a bit rounder and fleshier than usual and
drinks perfectly now. There’s never much of
this special Chianti to be had so we
recommend picking some up while you can.
$14.98
750ml [301396]
MONTESECONDO 2008 ROSSO DO TOSCANA
We haven’t always liked the wines from this
estate but they have stayed committed to
excellence and it truly shows with the
release of this very soulful red. The
property is not only producing an impressive
Chianti but also offering this wonderful
blend of mostly Sangiovese with Canaiolo
that is aged entirely in steel tanks. This
Rosso boasts fragrant spiced red and black
fruits nuanced with notes of dried florals
and minerals. The palate is seamless with
sweet fruit, polished tannins and fresh
acidity that make it one of the most
impressive value Tuscan rossos we’ve come
across in some time. A real treat for Tuscan
wine lovers and those who appreciate really
well made wines offering varietal purity and
a real sense of place.
$18.98
750ml [303962]
MAJOLINI NV FRANCIACORTA BRUT
For those unfamiliar, Franciacorta is a
sparkling wine produced in the Champagne
method by mostly small estates in Italy’s
Lombardia region in and around the rolling
hills of Brescia. For many years we sold a
great deal from several producers until the
prices of their wines exceeded $35 retail.
Thanks to a local importer we are finally
able to offer an excellent value
Franciacorta at an outstanding price. The
Majolini family owns an opertates a small
winery and is committed to quality. Their
Franciacorta Brut is made from 90%
Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir and is simply
delicious from start to finish with
excellent persistence and freshness.
Majolini is ideal as an apertif or with
lighter fare and seafood dishes.
$21.98
750ml [303986]
COLLOSORBO 2004 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO
This estate had been out of the market for a
short period and customers had been
regularly requesting their wines. We had the
opportunity to meet up with them while on
business in New York this past year and
convinced them to sign on with Trilussa
Imports here in California. Due to this
direct import relationship, we are now able
to offer their Brunello at a substantially
reduced price. The 2004 is meduim-to-full
bodied with really lush, spiced blackberry
fruit that’s simply irresistible. No reason
to put this one in the cellar for any length
of time as it’s ready to go now. It’s a
really delicious Brunello at a fantastic
price.
WINE
ADVOCATE 91 POINTS
- "The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is a
deceptively medium-bodied wine that
nevertheless packs quite a punch in its
perfumed dark fruit. This Brunello exhibits
lovely balance, with notes of smoke, tar,
licorice and new leather that linger on the
refined, refreshing close. Anticipated
maturity: 2009-2019."
$39.98
750ml [302252]
Spain
Altos
de la Hoya d.o. jumilla 2008
monastrell
Altos de la Hoya is a
classic "bracket buster."
Not everyone is familiar
with their game, in this
case their grape, and
perhaps may discount them
before giving them a shot:
big mistake. When they take
over the game in the 4th
quarter with a dazzling
display of fruit and earth
balanced with acidity to
make the trifecta, it will
be too late! Scouting
Report: The grape Monastrell
is perhaps better known as
Mourvèdre. The variety was
probably introduced to
Catalonia by the Phoenicians
in around 500 BCE, came to
France sometime after the
16th Century and made it to
Southern California in the
1860s. Altos de la Hoya
starts out with a gorgeous
nose of earthiness and
briar/garrique balanced with
spicy plum notes and
peppered red fruits. The
palate starts soft and silky
with bright cherry fruit
flavors but has a nice
mid-layer of acidity. The
fruit comes to the fore
again in the finish with a
chorus of cherries,berries,
fruit roll-up, and wonderful
spiciness (sea salt, white
pepper). Very food-friendly,
this would pair beautifully
with lighter beef dishes,
pizza (think thick sauce and
mushrooms, meats), barbecued
meats and charcuterie in
general.
$9.99
750ml [377934]
Bodegas La n 2004 Culmen Reserva d.o. Rioja
Definitely one of the teams to watch in the
tourney, the press has already latched onto
this wine-- and for good reason. This
Spanish superstar is a dual threat: from
beyond the arc the grace and style is
clearly evident but Lan also has the power
to drive to the hoop. Well-rounded with the
'A game' always on display, Wine Spectator
obviously agrees.
WINE
SPECTATOR 96 POINTS
-
“This beautiful
modern red offers a velvety texture
supported by ripe, well-integrated tannins
and plenty of sweet toasty oak. Plum and
boysenberry fruit is ripe and fresh. Very
expressive, yet with great concentration.
Mineral and tobacco notes add complexity.
Powerful and complete. Drink now through
2025. 750 cases made
$64.99
750ml [378245]
Italy
PRODUTORI DEL BARBARESCO 2005 BARBARESCO
A team you can count on! In our opinion,
Produttori del Barbaresco is one of the true
gems of Piemonte. Their Barbaresco (not to
mention their exceptional single vineyard
wines) remains one of the best values in the
category and a benchmark from vintage to
vintage. When others may not always live up
to their reputation, Produttori continues to
deliver consistent quality. This 2005 is
simply outstanding, especially in light of
the price. It’s a classic from start to
finish and it will only improve with time.
$29.98
750ml [301400]
Slovenia
Batič 2005 Rosso Reserve, Vipavska Valley We came across
this excellent red and decided to feature it
despite the fact that the slick paper used
on the labels became scuffed by the
cardboard inserts in the boxes during
shipping. The damage is cosmetic only; the
wine inside the bottles is first rate. The
Batič family has been growing grapes and
making wine in the Vipava Valley since 1592.
Their winery lies on 18 hectares of land on
the westernmost edge of Slovenia, 15 miles
from the Italian border. Historically, the
Vipava Valley has undergone continuous
changes of authority. It was under the
command of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy,
Italy, Yugoslavia and now Slovenia, a member
of the European Union. Father and son team
Ivan and Miha Batič farm organically, as
their ancestors did. They have an almost
spiritual dedication to land, vine, wine and
local tradition.
In the best years Batič produces a Bordeaux
Blend simply called Rosso. The 2005 vintage
is only the third example of Rosso produced
since 1997. This is a serious - almost
voluptuous - cuvée of a selection of their
verybest Merlot (about 70%), Cabernet Franc
(about 20%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (about
10%) from their best situated and oldest
vines. The wine displays aromas and flavors
of both red and black fruits. It has good
body and a long finish. Matured for more
than 12 months in local Slovenian barrels,
it will age gracefully for another decade or
more. Although the wine is young and
benefits from thirty or more minutes of air,
it is so good that it’s hard to resist to
drinking this now with lamb and beef dishes.
$34.98
750ml [372410]
Spain
The Juan Gil Story
Jumilla, Spain, the home El Nido, Clio,
Wrongo Dongo and more.
Jumilla is one
of those small Spanish wine regions that
labored in near obscurity for generations,
but there is a wealth of indigenous vines
and sunshine and Jumilla is quickly becoming
a star. The Juan Gil family are clearly
among the best of the region and their El
Nido “Clio" is the most requested Spanish
wine in our store, but don’t forget the less
pricey Juan Gil that they built their name
upon. The Juan Gil Jumilla gets consistent
accolades including a listing in Wine
Spectator top 100 list for 2009 for the 2006
bottling.
In looking at the vineyard, you see the
magic of Jumilla—old vine Mourvedre (here
called Monastrell), grown in field of
limestone rocks that look like a quarry bed.
These gnarled, head-pruned vineyards yield
little, on average vineyards in Jumilla
yield 0.6 tons/acre--among the lowest yields
in the world. The limestone helps keep the
vigor down while elevating the natural
acidity and brightening the aroma.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape enjoys a similar
limestone subsoil which can be crucial in
warmer regions as the added acidity helps
keep these wines from tasting over-ripe.
Jumilla is also a high altitude growing area
with the Gil family’s properties grown at
700m (about 2,300ft), providing a mix of
warm days and cool nights that winemakers
look for all over the world.
Juan Gil “Wrongo Dongo” Jumilla 2008
We tasted this wine in Spring of last
year, months before it landed in America.
It tasted great as a pre-release, but it’s
showing even better today. If you want a
succulent and un-fussy introduction to
Spanish wines, this would be a great place
to start. The wine has a violet-purple
color and equally impressive saturation of
black plum, raspberry and fine spices on
the palate. In fact the richness and
texture are off the charts for $6.99. It
also doesn’t hurt that the new label is
pretty mod and cool looking—much better
than the funny yellow guy of past years.
$6.99
750ml [377132]
Juan Gil Jumilla
2007
While the newly released 2007 does not
have a rating yet, every vintage from
2002-2006 received 90 points or better
from The Wine Advocate. Look for a
brightness of fruit here like raspberries
and blueberry jazzed up with a thread of
fresh, natural acidity. There is also
more serious edge here as the wine shows
earth, toasty oak, and a hint of
mocha/coffee--a modern classic in that
we’re happy to see back in the store with
the new 2007 vintage.
$13.99
750ml [373831]
Atalaya Almansa 2007
Here is an intriguing newcomer from the
Gil Family. The first vintage of Atalaya
recently received 91 points from Robert
Parker and The Wine Advocate, “This
purple-colored wine has an expressive
bouquet of violets, spice box, leather,
game, blueberry and black cherry. On the
palate it comes off as borderline kinky
and definitely sexy with lots of
easy-going flavor, superb depth,
complexity and a 45-second finish.
Although it can be enjoyed now, it will
evolve for another 2-3 years.” While the
“kinky” and “sexy” descriptors make us
snicker a little, there is definitely
something hedonistic and flashy about this
wine. Could it be the Garnacha Tintorera
in the blend? Native to the hills of
Almansa adjacent to Jumilla, Garnacha
Tintorera is one of the rare grapes whose
juice runs red rather than simply picking
up its color from contact with the skins
and is well known for powerful color and
deep flavors.
$12.99
750ml [380659]
Bodegas El Nido “Clio”
2007, Jumilla
A big part of the success of the Juan Gil
winery and the families many projects is the
talented partners they work with across
Spain. El Nido is a project the Gil family
put together with their dynamic and creative
American importer, Jorge Ordonez. The Gil
Family and Jorge Ordonez extended the
partnership to include one of Australia’s
most talented winemakers, Chris Ringland.
“Clio” is a Jumilla with a twist as the
blend includes 30% Cabernet Sauvignon in
addition to the core of Monastrell at heart
of the other Jumilla wines. The 2007 is the
4th vintage-- the previous three scored very
highly in the Wine Advocate: 97pts for 2004,
95pts for 2005, and 95pts again for the
2006. All we can say is get the 2007 while
it lasts.
$41.99
750ml [377064]
Bodegas El Nido “El
Nido” 2007, Jumilla
The super-premium “big brother” of “Clio”
reverses the blend with 70% Cabernet
Sauvignon. There is very little produced
in a normal year and production was down
severely. We won’t get much and it’s
definitely a splurge, but the track record
is impressive: 99 points for the 2004 “El
Nido,” 98 points for 2005, and 97 points
for 2006, all from the Wine Advocate.
$124.95
750ml [379659]
New Wines—New Partnerships
More from the Gil Family and Friends
In May of
2009, we met with the Gil family’s
importer Jorge Ordonez and got our first
taste of three new exciting white wine
projects, Shaya, La Cana, and Avanthia.
Just as El Nido was built out of a very
modern cross-continental partnership,
these three new wineries include the Gil
Family, importer Jorge Ordonez, a cast of
local winemakers, local vineyard owners,
and flying international winemakers. In
fact the Gil family is a bit uncomfortable
with the spotlight and prefer to let the
talent of the winemakers and vineyard
managers come to the fore. All the same,
we found the common threads in these
projects intriguing and the wines are
certainly delicious.
Shaya Rueda 2008
This a very bright and zesty white wine.
The Rueda region’s Verdejo grape has a
flavor profile that is similar to Sauvignon
Blanc in its citrusy core of ruby grapefruit
and intense lime fruit. The Shaya Rueda
definitely shows its citrus side but also
brings aromas of blossoms and hints of riper
apricot and tropical fruit on the palate.
Australian winemaker Belinda Thompson
artfully integrates a thread of slate
minerality from some very old vines that
adds interest from the nose to the long
finish.
$12.99
750ml [380760]
La
Cana Albarino 2008, Rias
Baixas
The La Cana is a wine that
will surprise you with its
zip. It shows a mix of
nectarine and apricot that
is pure Albarino, but it is
fresher and crisper than
most with a subdued note of
minerality on the mid-palate
and finish that is just
enough to make the
wine-geeks happy. The
winemaker here is Alister
Gardner from New Zealand and
while the flavors are purely
a reflection of Spanish
soils and grapes, the wine’s
artful balance of fruit and
acidity holds the same
excitement of many New
Zealand wines.
$14.99
750ml [380768]
Avanthia Godello 2008 Valdeorras
The partnership at Avanthia includes the
Valdeorras winery Godeval as well as Jorge
Ordonez and the Gil Family. Housed in a
13th century monastery, Godeval single
handedly worked to bring the Godello grape
back from the brink, making the first
modern Godello based wine in 1985.
Avanthia is a special 400cs production
that brings together the talents of
Godeval with Jorge Ordonez, the Gil
Family, and winemaker Alister Gardner. On
first take the Avanthia is some-what like
a White Burgundy with its cream-chiffon
lemon fruit and gentle mix of cinnamon,
nutmeg, and gentle oakiness. There is
something riper underneath and wine turns
gradually towards peach and papaya
flavors. As with Alister Gardner’s
winemaking on the La Cana, there is a mix
of ripeness and crisper flavor profiles—an
intriguing winemaking tightrope of sorts.
The Avanthia is not inexpensive, but it is
pretty serious wine.
$26.99
750ml [380789]
Italy
A Bit About
2005 Barolos
Over the years
we’ve learned to take our time and make our
own informed decisions about specific
vintages and the corresponding wines that
apply rather than relying solely on an array
of wine journalist opinions. This involves
traveling, attending proper tastings and
talking with numerous growers and winemakers
in order to form more accurate opinions. We
do this in an effort to offer you the best
in selection and education as is possible.
This past year we tasted a couple hundred
Barolos, which afforded us an excellent
snapshot of the 2005 vintage for Barolo.
What is very clear is that the rains that
hit at harvest affected a large percentage
of the growers. More specifically, those who
picked after the rains were far less likely
to have richer more complex wines while
those fortunate enough to have harvested
prior to the rain made good to outstanding
Barolo. Considering the prior outstanding
string of vintages and the upcoming 2006s
and 2007s, we bought very carefully in 2005
to ensure the best for our customers. This
month we’ve chosen to mention a few
excellent 2005 values.
CAVALLOTTO 2005 BAROLO “BRICCO BOSCHIS”
We wrote about this wine in our December
newsletter as one of our top Italian Wines
of 2009 but felt it deserved another
mention. The Cavallottos have been making
great wines for a long time and their 2005
Barolo is quite an accomplishment
considering the weather challenges of the
vintage. Things we especially appreciate
about the Baroli of Cavallotto are that
they not only capture the intriguing fruit
and elegance of Casiglione but also are
somewhat approachable for drinking on
release yet age incredibly well.
WINE ADVOCATE 93 POINTS
- “The
2005 Barolo Bricco Boschis is gorgeous and
linear in its expressive aromatics and
focused core of fruit. Medium in body, the
wine reveals outstanding balance and
depth, with gorgeous inner perfume and a
long, refined close. Sweet notes of
menthol, raspberries and spices linger on
the finish. The 2005 doesn’t have the
sheer exuberance of the 2004 and the firm
tannins might make this wine hard to fully
appreciate in its infancy, but with some
time in bottle, this, too, will very
likely develop into a gem. Anticipated
maturity: 2012-2025.”
$54.98
750ml [301146]
Montenegro
Plantaze 2007 Vranac “Pro Corde” Lake Skadar,
Montenegro
Crna Gora, or Montenegro, as it is called
outside of its borders, is a small country
across the Adriatic from Southern Italy.
There is a long tradition of viticulture in
Montenegro dating back to at least the
second century BC. Montenegro, which has
only 650,000 inhabitants, just became
independent in 2006.
Vranac is an ancient red grape varietal
native to the Balkans. While not much is
known about the origin of this grape
variety, it is widely assumed that it is a
relative of Plavac Mali (Croatia) which is
the descendent of a naturally occurring
hybrid of Zinfandel (Crljenak Kastelanski)
and Dobricic.
Like Plavac and Zinfandel, Vranac displays a
dark ruby color and a fairly full body. This
red tends to be strong and savory, sometimes
pretty rustic. The Pro Corde by Plantaze
Winery is a reserve quality example of an
extremely well-made Vranac produced with
selected grape material from this sizable
estate. Pro Corde is Latin for “good for the
heart”. Vranac Pro Corde carries this name
due to its increased content of
pranthocyandiols, which are anti-oxidants
found naturally in grapes.
This crowd pleaser sports a deep, almost
purple color with deep rich black fruit
flavors. Black berries and supple cherry
tones dominate the aromas, bursting into a
pleasurable harmonious experience on the
palate. At the same time there are smoky or
savory elements, like some Rhone reds. The
Plantaze 2007 is drinking very well now.
This is great with smoked meats, sausages,
grilled vegetables and, of course, a nice
cut of steak.
$14.98
750ml [372413]
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Hi-Time Wine Cellars | 250 Ogle Street | Costa Mesa, CA 92627
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