Featured World Wines

Feteasca Neagra 2008 Special Reserve Romania

This medium-bodied red was made by the Blue Danube Winery in the Dealu Mare region of Romania from 100% Feteasca Neagra, an indigenous grape variety also known as Black Maiden. The wine was aged for 12 months in a combination of French and Romanian oak. It has a dark color with hints of bramble or forest on the nose; in the mouth, you find really good fruit with flavors of black cherries/plums and a subtle minerality on the finish. Fruit forward enough to drink by itself, this red will also accompany meat dishes and casseroles.

$8.95 750ml [372431]

Barbadillo palomino fino JEREZ

Barbadillo is a family-owned business in the Upper Jerez region in Spain and the largest producer of Manzanilla in the whole of the Jerez region. They own 500 hectares of vineyards, have a rich tradition dating back centuries and, judging by the outstanding quality of this little Palomino, have an even brighter future. Palomino Fino is a grape used mostly in the production of Sherry. But, it can make an enjoyable un-fortified wine with the right touch. What touch is that, you may ask? Aye, there's the rub. The grape is generally low in both acidity and sugar, which doesn't affect its use in Sherry but can make it tricky for making standard wine from it. The Barbadillo version, however, stands out. The nose starts with a light minerality and straw notes and a beautiful, refined cellared stone fruit essence. The palate begins crisp with a rush of brisk acidity balanced with upfront fruit and a light sweetness in the background. Flavors of Asian pear blend with a mélange of stone/orchard fruits. The mouthfeel is rounded but not fat. All in all, a very tasty, versatile white at a great price that will work wonders solo or pair with clean, simple dishes (cheeses, white meats, pork, fish, etc.).

$6.95 750ml [380892]

BOTANI 2009 MOSCATEL malaga

“Botani” is light, but fills the mouth with flavor. Since “Botani” is made with Muscat of Alexandria it suggests sweetness on the nose and mid-palate but finishes clean and on the dry side of off-dry. This is also a stunning wine to pair with any number of seafood dishes, from sea-bass with mango relish to ahi tuna or simply-prepared shrimp. The amazing part is these grapes were grown on slopes up to 60%, nearly vertical. The neighbors make only dessert wines, in part because sweet wines demand more money, so this crystalline and pure dry Muscat is the only wine of its kind in the region.

ROBERT PARKER 91 POINTS

"The 2009 Botani was sourced from organically farmed 70-year-old Moscatel de Alejandria vines producing tiny yields. Thirty percent of the wine was barrel-fermented in neutral French oak, the rest in stainless steel. Medium straw-colored with a green tint, it displays a nose of mineral, spring flowers, acacia, and a hint of tropical aromas. The 2009 vintage has produced a wine with extra density and concentration. Although the aromatics suggest sweetness, the wine is dry but very fruity, refreshing, and exceptionally long. It is an outstanding value that over-delivers in a big way."

$16.95 750ml [380527]

Celler Cal Pal 2007 "Black Slate" d.o. priorat

"This is the debut vintage of this “Vi de Poble” (village appellation) wine from the village of Porrera. There are 1000 cases of 2007 Black Slate, a blend of 60% Garnacha from vines over 60 years of age and 40% Carinena from vines over 100 years of age. Dark ruby-colored, the nose exhibits lots of spice, mineral, underbrush, black licorice and blueberry. Elegant on the palate, it has tons of sweet black fruit, ripe flavors, outstanding depth and concentration, and several years of aging potential. However, this finely rendered, moderately priced Priorat can be enjoyed now as well as over the next eight years." ROBERT PARKER 91 POINTS

$16.98 750ml [380885]

Tarima Monastrell 2009 D.O. Jumilla

This Spanish red is succulent, juicy, and very impressive for the price. Tarima is a brand new winery from Jumilla that brings together the Gil Family and Jorge Ordonez on another winning project. Some of you may recall the feature we did in February on the on exciting wines this partnership has been launching over the last few years (Clio, El Nido, Shaya, and La Cana to name a few). The new Tarima Monastrell shows waves of fruit with blueberry, raspberry, and pomegranate that turns pretty and floral in a way that is surprising for the variety. Monsatrell (aka Mourvedre) can sometimes be massive, meaty, and tannic, but Tarima goes a for a medium-weight style with great purity and supple tannins. The much discussed and truly great 2009 vintage shows promise throughout Spain with early samples showing added depth, acidity, purity, length, and finesse—more of everything in a way that reflects Mother-Nature’s favor rather than winemaker manipulation. There couldn’t be a better vintage to begin a new brand and this 2009 Tarima is a flashy and delicious debutant. We think it would be hard to find a more pleasurable way to spend $6.98.

$6.98 750ml [380888]

Papa Luna 2007 , D.O. Calatayud

Papa Luna begins as bush vine grapes in the slate studded Jiloca valley at 2,600 feet elevation. The blend consists of 70 % Garnacha ( 70 to 100 year old vines), 25 % Syrah, and 5 % Mazuelo. The wild mountain herbs amongst the vineyards give rise to the distinctive varietal aromas and garrigue character in the wine. This Calatayud D.O. offers one of the most unique areas in Spain for old vine Garnacha and is set to follow Priorat as a cutting edge region for Garnacha bases wines and world class winemaking. After individual varietal fermentation, the blended wine spends 5 months in French and American barrels. When the wine is poured, you are struck by the deep purple color and crimson rim. The nose provides aromas of raspberry and cherry punctuated by herbs and vanilla. This is a full-bodied wine with plenty of ripe fruit, fine velvety tannins and crisp acidity.

Papa Luna takes its name from Pedro Martinaz de Luna, born near the Calatayud vineyards, who served as the last Pope to reign in Avignon during the dual Papacy of the 15^th. century.ROBERT PARKER gives this hedonistic effort 90 POINTS.

$16.95 750ml [380890]

Pico Madama 2006, D.O. Jumilla

The region of Jumilla is characterized by broad valleys and plains crossed by mountains, which lie between the Mediterranean coast and Castilla La Mancha. The vineyards are planted at altitudes between 1,200 and 2,400 feet. 34-year-old Monastrell vines provide 50 % of the blend, with Petit Verdot making up the remaining 50 %. The Monastrell spends 13 months in American oak, while the Petit Verdot rests the same amount of time in French oak. In the glass, this wine displays a deep and intense red color with a violet edge. Hints of dried flowers, paprika and fruit notes of blueberry and blackberry work in unison to create a striking nose. The palate offering consists of soft yet firm tannins and complex spices with a hint of tobacco.This rich and full-bodied wine has a fine lengthy finish. Robert Parker 93 points.

$ 29.98 750ml [380891]

Triton Prieto Picudo 2008 Tierras de Leon

First of all the grape here is Prieto Picudo—one of the most obscure wine grapes from Spain. Second, this wine floored us when we tasted it nearly 4 months ago. Nearly the entire wine staff was together for dinner with the importer, and the most eloquent description we came up was “...estupido good!” The Trition Prieto Picudo comes from altitudes nearing 3,000 feet from vines that are 60-80 years old, with mindboggling yields of 0.38 tons/acre. That’s the lowest tonnage numbers we can remember. That crazy farming is reflected in the wine with incredible depth and massive black raspberry and boysenberry liqueur-like fruit. Surprisingly, it never gets heavy as all that richness is balanced by a core of fine minerality. We did get a second look at this wine recently and it is starting to open up more layers. The Triton Prieto Picudo should be fascinating to track through its development, but with only 388 cases produced it will be very limited.

$29.95 750ml [380886]

BRESSAN MASTRI VINAI: RE-DISCOVERING TRADITION IN FRIULI

 “These are wine drinkers’ wines.”  This comment came from John Downing, our long-time Italian wine buyer, upon recently encountering this astonishing line-up from Friuli’s Bressan Mastri Vinai.  Our staff, immediately smitten, recognized instinctively what he meant: to say the very least, these superb wines are traditionally-crafted, absolutely singular in terroir expression, and quite unlike anything else from Friuli, or Italy for that matter. Almost more evocative, if you can believe it, of the great wines from Rioja’s R. Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia or France’s greatly-missed Didier Dagueneau, these astonishing wines belong to a certain arch-traditional, hyper-naturalist, and anachronistic school of wine-making that vehemently resists things like technological innovation, international style, and, well, anything other than what they’ve done, quite successfully, since 1726.

From the village of Farra di Isonzo in the heart of Italy’s Collio and Isonzo D.O.C, Bressan Mastri Vinai was founded in 1726 and has been family-owned and operated for ten generations.  Often mentioned in the same breath as cult, reactionary producers Josko Gravner and Stanko Radikon, Bressan typifies the ultra-old-school approach to Friulian winemaking.  The following is an abridgement of their extraordinary manifesto:

• Everything is done by hand – vine selection, harvest, cultivation, even labeling

• Everything is done naturally – no herbicides, pesticides, fungicides, or synthetic chemical substances of any kind

• No sulphur used in the wine-making process

• Only natural, indigenous yeasts

• Preferential use of indigenous grape varieties

• No filtration, no irrigation

• No new oak – only un-toasted Slavonian large casks, tonneaux, barriques

• Old vines – many of the vines on the estate are over 100-years-old, and no vine may produce wine until at least seven years old

• No wine is released until it’s ready.  Some wines are held back as long as ten years before release.

 In short, Bressan is one of the most-exciting discoveries we’ve made in quite a while, but certainly something that must be tasted to be believed and understood – in fact, we invite you to do so at the wine bar on Tuesday, September 21^st, as part of our $10 Tuesdays series, with Bressan representative George Pavlov.

BRESSAN MASTRI VINAI 2003 VERDUZZO FRIULANO

 Closely-related to the Verduzzo Giallo used in Friuli’s great sweet wine, Ramandolo, this wine, from Verduzzo Friulano, is completely dry.  Offering up an incredibly complex bouquet of apricots, paraffin, citrus zest, lanolin, sea-salt and oyster shell supported by a nuanced touch of almond oil and sandalwood from a little time in old Slavonian casks, this is a white vin de garde that will actually improve for another 10-15 years in the bottle.  Quite unlike the squeaky-clean, stainless-steel fermented whites that Friuli has become known for, this is a monumental example of the old-style approach.  Try it with a dish of sautéed scallops or a few slices of Prosciutto di San Daniele. Limited.

$21.98 750ml [380049]

BRESSAN MASTRI VINAI 2004 SCHIOPPETTINO

 Also known as Ribolla Nera, this grape varietal is notoriously difficult to ferment properly.  In the old days, wine that hadn’t completed its fermentation would begin to re-ferment in the bottle once the weather warmed up, causing bottles to explode with the pressure from carbon dioxide.  This is how the grape gained its nickname, Schioppetino, or “little rifle.”  And this wine is an absolutely remarkable example of Schioppettino – with an incredibly complex nose of tobacco, black pepper, leather, and black raspberries supported by notes of sea-salt, musk, and sandlewood, this wine delivers all this plus more – miso, green tea, dark chocolate, etc. – on the remarkably long, satisfying and impeccably-balanced palate.  A truly remarkable discovery.  Try it with roasted duck or a hunk of Reggiano right off the wheel.  Limited.

$33.98 750ml [380050]

BRESSAN MASTRI VINAI 2003 PINOT NERO

 Pinot Noir has been grown on this estate since 1726.  And this example, from very old vines grown on a remarkably complex, ferrous soil called ferrettizzato, shows a side of Pinot Noir quite unlike anything else in the world.  Rich, full-bodied, and laden with dark, brooding spice tones, this wine delivers an intense nose of stony wild raspberries, Sarawak peppercorns, porcini powder, and a dark earthiness that transforms in the glass into a complex perfume of dried roses, oolong tea, and toasted herbs, finishing finally with a mysterious umami savoriness.  Extremely complex, and something for the Pinot fan who thinks he’s tried everything.  Excellent with game or roasted lamb.  Limited.

$33.98 750ml [380051]

BRESSAN MASTRI VINAI 1998 PIGNOL

The world’s slowest-fermenting grape variety, Pignolo is something of a specialty of the area and a rarity, with prices to match.  Sought after by connoisseurs, Pignol can produce intensely complex, age-worthy wines that sell for prices well into the triple digits.  This example, already twelve years old (Bressan never releases their Pignolo until it is at least ten years old), can compete with the best of them.  Offering up a mind-numbingly complex bouquet of black plums, heirloom tomato, and somewhat juicier, rounder fruit than the Schioppettino, the palate is supported by subtle notes of black-strap molasses, more black plums, and a high, lifted acidity.  Finishing with a mysterious, smoky/savory minerality, this wine is something to wonder at.  And while it performs beautifully now, this wine will improve for decades.  Extremely limited.

$59.98 750ml [380052]

Chillin’ reds & summer sippers

When it comes to chilling down wines, whites and rosés are the usual suspects. There are, however, a number of red wines that shine with a bit of a chill and we thought it would be fun to offer you a few outstanding value selections that are perfect for the warmer months of August and September.  And, while we're at it-- a few delicious wines perfect to help keep summer's heat at bay.  Cheers!

BERGER 2009 ZWEIGELT, AUSTRIA
So you’ve tried the amazingly popular and iconoclastic GrüVe from Berger and loved it? Well, now it’s time to try its red-wine sibling! Once again, in the perennially-popular (and crown-capped!) liter format (33% more wine = 33% more fun!), comes this delicious, quaffable rendition of Austria’s favorite and most-consumed red variety, Zweiglet (pronounced “tsv eye gelt”), AKA Blauer Zweigelt. Fresh and unoaked, medium-bodied, and moderate in alcohol, this wine is the antithesis (in fact, the polar opposite!) of the all-too-common oaked-up, opaque, purple, alcohol-and-fruit-bomb you find so prevalent these days in homage to the taste preferences of Mr. Parker. Clean, tangy, resplendent with red fruits, spice, and subtle herbal notes, this a red wine for drinking in the purest (and most enjoyable) sense. An ideal Summer quaff that is especially refreshing on a warm evening or at afternoon outdoor affair. Give it a chill and enjoy!

$12.95 750ml [311315]

MUMELTER 2008 SANTA MADDALENA, ALTO ADIGE, ITALY
While some wines are best on their own, others shine at the table and really make food come alive. The latter definitely applies to Santa Maddalena. This wine is produced in Italy’s Alto Adige region and is made from the Schiava grape. In our opinion, Georg Mumelter makes one of the best and we were fortunate to have enjoyed this with him and his family at their dinner table. We couldn’t help but notice that they began the meal with this wine and after tasting it we understand why it went so quickly and why the locals drink a lot of it.
Mumelter’s Schiava is fermented entirely in stainless steel and he adds a dollop of Lagrein to round it out. The wine is pale red in color and boasts intriguing aromas of wild strawberries with just a hint of white pepper while the palate is richer and broader than the color would suggest. We love this wine with pork, ham, salmon and a wide variety of cured meats and cheeses. Give this one a slight chill and be prepared for a wonderful treat from Alto Adige.

$15.98 750ml [303118]  

LA CASACCIA 2009 GRIGNOLINO DEL MONFERRATO, ITALY
Grignolino is a very distinctive grape variety that is native to Piedmont and not as well known here in the US. It combines pale, Pinot-like color (almost like a dark rose), delicious strawberry and rhubarb fruits, grippy tannins and a medium-bodied palate. As a result, it’s a classic match with salumi and a wonderful complement with a broad range of rich and flavorful foods. This particular bottling is fermented and aged in stainless steel for a direct, fresh, straightforward style. Twenty minutes in the refrigerator brings out the fruit.

$13.98 750ml [301173] 

DREI DONA NV DRY LAMBRUSCO “BLACK LABEL”
Our long-time friend Enrico Drei Dona has established himself as one of the top white and red wine producers in Italy’s Emilia Romagna region but we were recently surprised to discover that he is also producing outstanding Lambrusco. He was one of a number of Italian winemakers who took part in our recent Italian wine event at Antonello Ristorante here in Costa Mesa and this wine really stole the show. That’s saying a lot for a Lambrusco but we can assure you that this one is simply delicious. It offers rich, concentrated dark berry and plum fruits, fresh acidity, great balance and a refreshing effervescent finish. Bring this one to the next bbq, picnic or party and it’s sure to be a hit. An outstanding sparkler that’s versatile with a wide variety of foods and great on its own.

$12.98 750ml [303251]

VILLIERA “DOWN TO EARTH” Sauvignon Blanc / Semillon 2009
South Africa
South Africa is very topical these days with a successful World Cup and a young man named Oosthuizen making some news in Scotland recently—so, it’s only fitting to have an outstanding summer white wine to add to the list of good stuff going on down south. The nose of beautifully fresh green melon, guava, lime zest and lemon grass notes leads to more tropical fruits on the palate enwrapped in a lush, fat mouthfeel that retains a nimble touch with balancing acidity. If you like some of the big, brash Sauv Blancs out of New Zealand, this one is right up your alley. This will help keep those hot summer days tempered and in a tasteful way. Try with sea foods, picnic goods, tempura, sushi.

$9.99 750ml [379069]

William Févre Chile 2008 La Misión Chardonnay
William Févre is most known for his work in Chablis and, tasting what he and his team are doing down in Chile, that may change. This awesome little $6.95 Chardonnay blew a few of us away one afternoon in the cellar-- how can so much complexity, flavor and class make it into a sub-$7 bottling? We're not sure, but we are more than happy to shout about it to you, our faithful reader. The nose starts softly, subtly with light notes of river water minerality and young stone fruits. It was a bit cold when we first poured so a little time in glass really allowed this to express itself in terms of the freshness of fruit and reality of terroir the best of the Maipo Valley can showcase. Tropical fruits abound: guava, pineapple, lime/citrus, honey dew. This blends with a fresh green apple note layered in a beautiful minerality-- not the chalky, flinty type but more river rock. The finish is lengthy, the mouthfeel is fat and luscious, the underlying acidity is refreshing.

La Mision will pair wonderfully with many summer fave foods: fresh fish, sea food in general (scallops, crab legs), white meats, tofu dishes, margherita pizzas, white-sauce pastas. Wine Bar Manager Todd Johnston, not a Chardonnay fan, stated, “This is delicious!”

$6.95 750ml [380867]

Casa Marguery 2008 Mendoza Malbec
Malbec is all the rage these days which, overall, we think is a good thing. It's a very versatile grape and can take on a variety of expressions depending on pedigree and style it's made in. The Casa Marguery 2008 is a beautiful, easy-going Malbec that blends a bit of prettiness with a solid backbone. The nose is purple and gorgeous with strong violet and boysenberry tones and a bit of fruit roll-up (raspberry, mixed berry) in the background. The palate continues the mélange of berries adding some blueberry to the strong Boysen presence then brings in some classic Malbec flavors: smokiness, pencil lead, ironstone minerality. The lengthy finish goes on and on-- this is a young but complex easy-drinker that really shows and shows off how good high altitude fruit can be.

$13.95 750ml [380869]

Prieler 2007 Blaufränkisch Johanneshöhe Burgenland, Austria
The Prieler winery is located in the Schützner Stein area of Burgenland along the western shore of Neusiedler Lake. The family has been farming in this area for at least 150 years. Falstaff Magazine, the leading Austrian wine guide, choose Prieler as their 2009 Vintner of the Year.
Their 2007 Blaufränkisch was sourced entirely from the Johanneshöhe vineyard. The grapes are sustainably farmed and were manually harvested in the beginning of October. Fermentation was temperature controlled in stainless steel and the wine was aged in large oak barrels. The result is a classic expression of this light-bodied, elegant grape variety with dark berries backed by herbal spice, white pepper and deep forest berry fruit. This red is elegant, juicy, well-structured with plenty of finesse, and has a very long and persistent finish. A perfect accompaniment to food on hot days, this will stand up to a slight chill.

$20.95 750ml [311403]

Reds, Whites & Beat The Summertime Blues!

Goats do Roam 2009 White South Africa
It certainly is a clever name-- the play between Goats do Roam and Côtes du Rhône. But if that was the only thing behind this wine, a little play on words gimmick to hopefully catch your eye, it really wouldn't be worth writing up. Fortunately for all, as we like a little wordplay as much as the next wine staffer, this is a tasty and affordable white that's perfect for the season. A blend of 54% Viognier, 40% Grenache Blanc and 6% Roussanne, the Goat has a nose of stone fruits and light chalk that leads to a tasty palate that starts sweet and fat, with more peach and stone fruits and gorgeous viscosity, but brightens up mid-palate with a crisp river rock element and light minerality/acidity that keeps it refreshing.

$6.98 750ml [377985]

Wolftrap 2009 Blend
Another awesome summer wine that won't break the bank, The Wolftrap is a blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Viognier that is unpretentious as it is tasty. Both the Syrah and Mourvèdre come from a Malmesbury vineyard with the Viognier sourced on Boekenhoutskloof (Boekenhoutskloof, the parent winery, was founded as a small farm in 1776 in the Franschhoek valley, about a 40-minute drive northeast from Cape Town, South Africa). This is a clean, simple wine with tasty black fruit flavors mixed with a hint of red berry and a light spiciness tempered by a touch of violet. The tannins are smooth and you could serve this one at cellar temperature for a nice refreshing red wine for a hot summer day. The name comes from stories of wolves in the Franschhoek valley-- though they've never seen one; they did, however, find an ancient wolf trap that they decided to leave undisturbed, just in case.

$8.98 750ml [377012]

Zaumau 2008 Tinto D.O. Priorat
Primarily Grenache (Garnacha) with Carignan (Samsó), the 2008 Zaumau has a lot going on that will definitely put it in the running for your wine to grill or chill with. The nose of black licorice, black pepper and ripe red plum/berry fruit leads to an incredibly smooth palate that starts sweet but has balanced tannic acids at play with red rasberry fruit flavors, a plummy fruit roll-up note and a good dose of earthy minerality (river rocks meet sea salts). This makes Zaumau a rocking little BBQ or patio wine. It's not heavy but has enough tannins to pair up well with summer fare-- it's also not a fruit bomb but can stand alone as a good summer red that will be very well enjoyed sans food.

$16.95 750ml [380839]

Joan d’Anguera Garnatxa 2009 D.O. Montsant
The red wines most enjoy in the summertime are so fun to taste-- they're generally not heavy, have good fruit and can go with a myriad of foods or solo (like the ones on this page). This little Garnatxa (Grenache) has a bunch of stuff going on that really entices the palate-- there's a great abundance of sweet, ripe red fruits (blackberries, mixed red berries, ripe plum) that intermingle with a charming spicy (garrigue or Provençal herbs) character. The palate showcases more of the red fruit scents evident in the nose but also adds a brilliant watermelon streak and even a hint of sarsaparilla in the mid-palate that bring back childhood summertime tastes (Watermelon and Root Beer? Yes, please!) that make for a good wine when the sun shines.

$13.95 750ml [380831]

Musar 2008 Cuvée Rouge
Château Musar was established in Lebanon in 1930 by Gaston Hochar, and the winery is presently run by his two sons, Serge and Ronald. The vineyards are located at an altitude of over 3,000 feet in the Bekaa Valley where the vines are sheltered by the surrounding mountains running parallel to the Mediterranean coast. Musar’s red wines are made from a blend of Cinsault, Carignan, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Musar Cuvée is the second wine of Château Musar, meant to be drunk in its youth. The 2008 is composed of Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Tank fermented, the wine was not aged in oak. This red will match well with Mediterranean or Middle Eastern cuisine.

$15.99 750ml [365526]

Two Wines from Hungary

Following up on the success of our June wine of the month, the Szõke Mátyás 2008 Pinot Gris, we want to draw your attention this month to two more wines from Hungary.

Patricius 08 Furmint (Dry), Tokaji, Hungary
Winemaking in Hungary dates back to the Roman Empire. By the Middle Ages Hungary’s wines were well known across Europe, particularly the sweet wines from Tokaji (Tokay). Furmint, the principal grape variety used to make Tokay, can also be delicious when fermented totally dry.  The Patricius 2008 Furmint displays aromas and flavors of citrus, green apple and a hint of gooseberry. Good fruit and a rich mid-palate lead to a long finish with crisp minerality. This delicious white is a versatile food wine which will accompany fish, poultry and many vegetarian dishes.

$14.95 750ml [372415]

Pfneiszl 2007 Kékfrankos, Sopron, Hungary
The Pfneiszl Winery, on the south bank of Lake Neusiedl in Sopron, is owned and managed by two sisters: Birgit and Katrin Pfneiszl. They are part of a winemaking family based both in Hungary and Austria. Their vineyards in Hungary were seized by the former communist regime in the name of collectivization. After that happened, they had to “make due” with the 70 hectares that the family kept in Austria just on the other side of the border. In 1993, their Hungarian property was reclaimed by the sisters who have converted the vineyards to organic farming.

Kékfrankos is the Hungarian name for the grape known as Bläufrankisch in Austria. The grapes were vinified in stainless steel and aged 70% in stainless steel with 30% in used Hungarian barrique. This ruby-colored red displays aromas and flavors of bright cherries, cranberries, black tea, savory herbs and a trace of minerals on the finish. Try this with beef or lamb off the grill, stuffed peppers or goulash.

$13.95 750ml [372422]

Summer in Italy

GIOVANNI ALMONDO 2009 ROERO ARNEIS
Almondo is unquestionably one of the greatest producers of Arneis in Italy and we are excited to report that after an extended period he has new representation in California. His latest releases are outstanding as always and we wanted to get them in print as soon as we could. The 2009 Arneis offers a nose of fragrant apple leaf, florals and minerals and a crisp, refreshing palate with a delicious finish. It’s the ideal Spring/Summer white that’s wonderful on its own and versatile at the table. A wonderful apéritif wine and great all-around white. Outstanding!

$14.98 750ml [303231]

GIOVANNI ALMONDO 2009 ROERO ARNEIS “BRICCO DELLE CILIEGIE”
As great as the above Arneis is, there are occasions when a bit more richness and complexity is called for and that’s where “Bricco delle Ciliegie” comes in. It offers a bit more of everything and a portion of the wine is fermented in neutral oak for greater complexity. The palate is slightly creamy yet fresh throughout and long on the finish. Open this with fish dishes, light pastas and white meats and enjoy one of the very best Arneis made

$13.98 750ml [303058]

FATTORIA MONTICINO ROSSO 2009 ALBANA DI ROMAGNA
For those unfamiliar, Albana di Romagna is an ancient white grape varietal grown in Italy’s Emilia Romagna region that is often considered a wine of lesser importance. Regardless, there are a handful of producers like Fattoria Monticino Rosso that consistently produce excellent versions. This one offers rich flavors of honey and pear fruit along with notes of minerals and a nice zip of acidity. There’s also just a slight touch of sweetness making this an especially good warm weather white that’s great alone or with food. A very pleasant taste of Emilia Romagna at a very nice price.

$12.98 750ml [303234]

VENICA 2009 SAUVIGNON “RONCO DELLE MELE”
We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again that this is one of Italy’s finest Sauvignons. It’s simply outstanding and although there may be nothing new to report, this wine always seems like a revelation each year when we open a bottle of the latest vintage. It opens with powerful, intoxicating aromas of gooseberry, lemon, minerals and a whiff of mint and continues on with a fleshy, fresh and intensely flavored palate of lemon/lime citrus, saline and a very long finish. A sublime white wine.

$29.98 750ml [373036]

FEUDO D’ELIMI 2007 NERO D’AVOLA
Named after an ancient population known as the Elimi who migrated from Greece to Sicily in the 7^th Century B.C. and lived in the western Sicily for 400 years. It is believed they began the winemaking of today having brought cuttings of vines from Greece. This awesome value red opens with aromas of blackberry, plum and dried tobacco and continues on the palate with warm, plummy berry fruit flavors layered with hints of licorice and spice. It’s medium-to-full-bodied with soft tannins and perfect with a wide variety of foods. It’s tough to find higher quality, unmanipulated table wines at this price and we’re sure you’ll love this outstanding value red.

$9.98 750ml [303236]

TORRE QUARTO 2007 UVA DI TROIA
Although Puglia is one of Italy’s largest producing wine regions, we are far more selective when it comes to this zone for a number of reasons. Although the wines continue to improve as vineyard and cellar practices are upgraded and newer wineries arise, there are still far fewer wineries here that hold our attention and Torre Quarto is definitely among them. Their outstanding Uva di Troia is fresh and juicy with loads of savory, peppery berry fruit flavors with notes of spice and dried herbs. It’s a well-made table red that is an intriguing alternative to the sweeter California Zins or the Côtes du Rhône style reds out there and represents just what so many of our customers appreciate about great regional Italian reds. A treat from Southern Italy.

$13.98 750ml [302457]

GIOVANNI ALMONDO 2007 ROERO ROSSO
We’ve been on the lookout for a good, under $20 Nebbiolo and we finally came across one we liked during our recent travels in Piemonte. Many of the Roero Nebbiolos made today are now being aged in new small French barrels and are definitely over-oaked. This is mainly due to the fact that this sub-region of Piemonte has very sandy soils which yield lighter, more elegant wines that do not respond well to excessive new oak. Fortunately, some wine producers (including Almondo) recognize this and are crafting excellent Nebbiolos like this one. This irresistible red is juicy and fresh with very tasty cherry fruit flavors, bright acidity and ripe tannins. It’s classic Nebbiolo from start to finish and is a fantastic introduction to those who’ve never tried this varietal.

$13.98 750ml [303237]

GIUSEPPE GABBAS 2007 CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA “LILLOVE”
Since the publicizing of areas of the World categorized as “Blue Zones.” “Scientists and demographers have classified these longevity hot-spots by having common healthy traits and life practices that result in higher-than-normal longevity. The name Blue zone seems to be first employed in a scientific article by a team of demographers working on centenarians in Sardinia in 2004.” As a result we thought we’d offer one of the better value Cannonaus from Sardegna as we’ve had numerous recent requests. Gabbas vinifies this delicious wine in stainless steel and the result is a wonderfully aromatic red with polished, round black raspberry fruit laced with notes of exotic spices and a savory fruit-driven finish. It’s the ideal Summertime red that’s perfect with pizza, grilled meats, BBQ, pastas and cheeses.

$19.98 750ml [303235]

VILLA DORA 2005 LACRYMA CRISTI ROSSO “GELSONERO”
There are a number of Lacryma Cristi whites in the market but we haven’t come across a really good Lacryma Rosso until this gem arrived recently. Volcanic soils make for interesting wines, and many of Campania’s famous terroirs are of volcanic origin. Mount Vesuvius is an active volcano just east of Naples, and the organically farmed vineyards of Villa Dora are on the lower slopes of the volcano, inside the national park that surrounds it. The soil, ground-up pumice really, looks like black Grape-Nuts, and the wines are strikingly flavorful and distinctive. “Gelsonero” is produced from (organically grown) 80% Piedirosso and 20% Aglianico. It’s a very charming regional red with a broad reddish-black color and a subtle smoky aroma with a hint of tar along with delicious flavors of blackberry and black cherry on the palate accented by savory herb notes. Although it’s medium-weight it’s light on its feet and it’s a terrific red for almost any occasion. Especially great with meats.

$21.98 750ml [303238]

FONTALEONI 2009 VERNACCIA DI SANGIMIGNANO

This Vernaccia sold like wildfire last year so we are pleased to inform that the 2009 is another winner. Fontaleoni manages to produce an exceptional value Vernaccia with a bit more richness and depth than most wines produced from this varietal. There’s no shortage of freshness, however, as the wine has ample acidity and cut-- making it clean and crisp on the finish. Fresh aromas of pear, citrus and florals accompany a refreshing palate offering a hint of salinity and excellent length. Perfect with seafood pastas and grilled shrimp, the wine also pairs well with lighter meats, fish and is delicious on its own.

$13.98 750ml [303058]

CANTINA DEL TABURNO 2008 FALANGHINA

Considering the number of growers this winery sources fruit from we’re always impressed with the quality of this consistently well-made Falanghina from Italy’s Campania region. It’s one of those wonderful regional Italian wines that our customers can’t get enough of. Whether it’s the pleasing aromas of acacia flowers and white peaches or the fresh and tasty palate, this terrific white is hard to beat on a warm afternoon. Ideal with fish, vegetable dishes, sandwiches, cold cuts and lighter soups.

$13.98 750ml [301013]

TENUTA LUISA 2008 PINOT GRIGIO
WINE SPECTATOR 92 POINTS

We featured this wine in a recent email offering and thought it deserved another mention. Tenuta Luisa continues to turn out very exciting value-packed white wines and their 2008 Pinot Grigio is simply irresistible. Considering the myriad of Pinot Grigio labels that have flooded the US market in recent years, it’s a bit more work for us to cull out the gems, especially under $20. However, a few exist and this is definitely among them.

2008 was an especially great year for white wines in Italy and the Luisa family managed to exploit those ideal conditions and produce some really outstanding wines. This opulent, rich-yet-fresh Pinot Grigio boasts inviting aromas of roasted nut, tropical fruit and sage and a round, creamy palate with just the right touch of acidity to balance it out.

As we mentioned, there are many average Pinot Grigios out there but Tenuta Luisa’s is outstanding and worth every penny. It’s a great accompaniment to fish, poultry and vegetable dishes, appetizers, ham and fresh cheeses yet is simply delicious on its own.

$14.98 750ml [304003]

Musella 2008 Bianco del Drago Verona

This delicious, easy to drink dry white is a blend of low yield Garganega (90%) and Chardonnay (10%) from the hills northeast of Verona (you may know Garganega as the best of the grape varieties used to make Soave in the Veneto). The two varieties were harvested and vinified separately, both in stainless steel. The wines were aged on their lees in stainless steel tanks. This white is fresh and aromatic with apple and pear flavors followed by a crisp minerality in the finish. It will accompany appetizers and lighter fish, seafood or chicken dishes.

The history of the Musella family, the first owners of the estate, dates back to the 16th century. In the second half of the 19th century Count Cesare Trezza di Musella introduced innovative systems for planting and growing vineyards. The current owners began a thorough and meticulous restoration of the vineyards, villa and surrounding property in 1995. They found the dragon design on a wall sconce intended to hold a torch in the old wine cave. Now this dragon is their logo.

$15.95 750ml [303186]

MANINCOR 2007 PINOT BLANC CHARDONNAY SAUVIGNON
“RISERVA DELLA CONTESSA”

You’ll rarely come across a classier wine producer than Count Michael Goëss-Enzenberg, proprietor of Manincor. His winery is situated in the Bolzano area of Italy’s Alto Adige region and is among the best estates in this alpine zone where some of Italy’s top and most long-lived white wines hail from. We had the pleasure of tasting this classy blend during his recent visit to the US and it met with unanimous staff approval!! We were surprised to discovery that it is fermented and aged entirely in large oak barrels as it’s not the least bit oaky. The wine opens with lifted aromas of minerals, saline and subtle fruit notes and continues on to a creamy yet fresh palate with great intensity and length for a wine at this price. There’s far more we’d like to say here but there’s just not enough room so we recommend checking out his website www.manincor.com!

$20.98 750ml [303996]

PUNTA CRENA 2008 PIGATO “CA DA RENA”

For those interested in venturing farther north to Italy’s Liguria region, we are pleased to offer this outstanding Pigato from the Kermit Lynch portfolio. A number of customers who’ve tried this wine have made it a point to let us know how much they enjoyed it and we definitely share their sentiments. It’s one of those really well-crafted local Italian whites you’d be lucky to come across on a vacation in Liguria that offers that extra dimension of pleasure that makes you hope it’s available back in the US. In this case it is!

We like what Kermit had to say about it: “Contrary to popular belief, Pigato is not the same grape as Vermentino/Rolle but a sort of cousin variety cultivated only in Liguria and named after its pigmented, freckled skin. Lively and fresh like the Vermentino, Pigato has a bit more depth and dimension, more punch and an irresistible friendliness. Like all of Punta Crena’s wines, it is wickedly easy to down. When I open this Pigato for French winemakers, they are dazzled, especially by its complex aromatics.”

$15.98 750ml [303977]

TERENZUOLA 2009 VERMENTINO “COLLI DI LUNI”

We’ve enjoyed the wines of this young estate in recent years but their 2009 Vermentino made us take notice. In our opinion the wines of this property have really taken a jump in quality of late and this wine is proof. Terenzuola is located in Tuscany in the vacinity of Liguria. The maritime influences along with the soils of the area yield a wine with regional flavor and subtlety. Mineral and floral aromas complement a light to medium-bodied palate with delicious fruit, crisp acidity and a long finish. You’ll want to roll out the grill and cook up some fish or shellfish with this one or have a glass while your readying brunch or dinner. Either way it’s an exciting regional white that brings a taste of Tuscany to your table.

$17.98 750ml [303225]

TENUTA SAN FRANCESCO 2008 BIANCO D’AMALFI

This small, artisan estate was founded by three families committed to the preservation of some of the oldest existing pre-phylloxera vines along the Amalfi Coast. Many of the grape vines planted on the coastal hillsides had been abandoned and left to grow wild and these dedicated friends decided to revive and preserve them before they were lost. This fantastic Amalfi white is produced from Falanghina, Biancolella and Pepella grapes and is a real treat indeed. It offers distinctive minerally aromas nuanced with notes of florals, honey, saline and soft fruit and an intriguing medium-bodied palate of minerally fruit with crisp acidity. This rare white is simply a pleasure to drink with or without food and represents what is so special about Italy’s diverse landscape.

$18.98 750ml [302975]

Spain – The Eguren Family

Look who's coming to Hi-Time... Eduardo Eguren of Spain’s famed Eguren family. While you might not know their names, if you are a Spanish wine lover you’ve probably run across the wines of the Eguren family—from the value and dependability of Protocolo, to the venerable Rioja estate of Sierra Cantabria, to the critically acclaimed single vineyard wines San Vicente, El Puntido, La Nieta and more. The Egurens were the ones who purchased several small parcels of old vines and established Termes/Numanthia in Toro. In 2008, the Eguren family sold their famous Toro Bodega, but by that time, the family had purchased 26 small vineyards in the appellation and had already built the winery for their next project in Toro: Teso de la Monja. The 2007s we are offering from Teso de la Monja are the first vintage of these new wines. Please join us at the Wine Bar on Saturday 6/19 to meet Eduardo Eguren and taste a range of the family’s wines, or if you prefer, sit back and read here and we’ll give you a quick tour of their many fine wines.

The Rioja Estates - The Egurens are known as excellent farmers and vineyard hunters. Today they own five small winery facilities in Rioja and over 420 acres of vineyards in the region. The Egurens have been growing Tempranillo in the limestone-clay soils of the Rioja Alavesa zone since 1870, slowly building their vineyard holdings parcel by parcel. Guillermo Eguren, the family’s 3rd generation, was the first to bottle the family’s wine instead of simply selling it in bulk, creating the Sierra Cantabria label in 1957. Winemaker, Marcos Eguren, notes that despite the many holdings those five separate wineries help keep things decentralized and boutique in scale, “Big things always end up worse. I don’t like big. I like small, exclusive, well-considered. The big way is for big businessmen. We’re farmers.”

Sierra Cantabria Crianza 2005, Rioja

With 140 years of history, the Eguren family has seen the wine industry change many times in Rioja and they make wines in both the “traditional” and “modernist” styles. This Crianza stays close to tradition with a slight brick-orange color at the rim and fine spices (think ginger and cardamom) on the nose. Look for that beautiful spiciness to flow neatly into hints of earth, sandalwood, and moderate oak complimenting a core of blackberry and plumy Tempranillo fruit. The “modern” style of Rioja is often bigger, but we really enjoy the length, balance, and layers of aroma in traditionally styled Rioja like this Crianza.

$14.99 750ml [377143]

Señorio San Vincente 2006, Rioja

This is consistently our favorite single vineyard bottling from the Eguren family. Planted in 1985, the “La Canoca” vineyard was developed to highlight virtues of the rare Tempranillo Pelludo clone, known for tiny berries and complex aromatics. The clone is temperamental and low yielding so when San Vincente debuted with the 1991 vintage, it was the only wine of its kind. The 2006 bottling recently received 93 points from the Wine Advocate, noting, “it offers up a brooding bouquet of wood smoke, pencil lead, licorice, plum, and blackberry. Opulent and rich on the palate with layers of succulent fruit, it has 6-8 years of aging potential and should be at its best from 2016 to 2026.”

$54.99 750ml [380858]

Protocolo—La Mancha & more

We’ve sold the Protocolo wines for many years at Hi-Time and the value has always been excellent. The estate is in the appellation of La Mancha, but the label reads “Vino de la Tierra de Castilla.” This designation allows for blending from the family’s younger vine holdings in Toro and Rioja—an interesting twist that allows for a bit of extra quality in the winery.

Protocolo Rosado 2008

We like this advice from Jay McInerney, novelist and converted wine writer: “Anyone who starts analyzing the taste of a rosé in public should be thrown into the pool immediately.” This Protocolo is unfussy and fun with a mix of rose petals, strawberries and summery zest. If you’ve always wanted to throw your favorite critic in the pool, chances are they deserve it, as we’ve seen many complimentary reviews from serious critics writing about this little rosé.

$4.98 750ml [301570]

Protocolo Tinto 2007

As we noted above, a Protocolo has been a fixture at Hi-Time for many years and at the price it’s easy to see why. The Protocolo delivers roasted herbs, pepper and black cherries in a smooth and satisfying glass of wine. We pulled out the calculator, converted the winery’s numbers on hectoliters per hectare numbers to good old American measurements, and discovered the yields on the estate are less than 2 tons/acre. Moreover, the estate is at 2,700 feet of elevation, ensuring a balance of acidity that keeps the wine fresh and sustains the perfume. No wonder we always like this wine!

$5.98 750ml [378447]

Protocolo “Codice” Tinto 2007

Like the regular Protocolo Tinto the “Codice” is 100% Tempranillo. The primary difference is a darker color from longer skin contact in the cellar and more noticeable oak. Codice shows a darker shade of black cherry with more fine spices and a smoky, mineral thread.

$9.95 750ml [380860]

Toro—Announcing Teso de la Monja

It seems most American consumers had their first exciting experience with the Tempranillo wines of Toro with the Termes/Numanthia collection of wines. Guillermo Eguren, the family patriarch at 77 years of age, has continued buying vineyard land every year as a hobby or compulsion or present to himself. When the Egurens sold Termes/Numanthia in 2008, they owned 26 vineyards in Toro, they had already completed a new winery in the region, and they already had the first vintage of the new Teso de la Monja wines in barrel. But with so many distinct parcels, Termes/Numathia and Teso de la Monja are very different. Termes/Numanthia aims always to achieve maximum power and depth in a “I didn’t know Tempranillo could be so inky” kind of style. Teso de la Monja is plenty big, but shows softer tannins and more elegance and subtle perfume.

Teso de la Monja “Almirez” 2007 Toro

We don’t usually write up wines twice in one vintage and Teso de la Monja “Almirez” got plenty of ink in December as one of our top wines of the year. So at the risk of repeating ourselves… this wine is really, really delicious. There is a liqueur-like texture to the fruit here—satiny, ripe and long—with raspberry and black cherry notes. The nose delivers a mix of spices and high-tone hibiscus flower perfume that reappear and weave nicely throughout the flavors on the palate. Robert Parker and The Wine Advocate gave this first release of “Almirez” 91 points, noting “It is an excellent value that over-delivers in a big way.”

$29.95 750ml [380781]

Teso de la Monja “Victorino” 2007 Toro

While Almirez is all satin and spice, Victorino is darker, smokier and more minerally. Victorino is amazingly open for such a big, structured wine. All that blackberry fruit and richness can’t be wrong, can it? But with proper cellaring this is the kind of wine that can go another 15-20 years and still not show you all its secrets. Part of the story here is un-grafted vines. Like most places in the world, the vineyard-pest phylloxera is in nearly every vineyard in Europe, meaning nearly every vine in Spain (as elsewhere) is grafted for protection. Toro’s sandy soils ensure that there are pockets of land where phylloxera cannot live and the vines can be “own-rooted.” We’ve heard a handful of top producers speak reverently about the aromatic complexities of un-grafted vines and perhaps this explains the immediate beauty and “wow” factor of this wine. Then again, it could be the intense hand-de-stemming practices of the Eguren family or the ridiculously low yields of 0.6 tons/acre. The Wine Advocate score for this wine is 92+ points, a very good showing for a first vintage, but we think this wine may even be better than its score.

$59.95 750ml [380471]

Spanish  Rosé

Quo 2009 Grenache Campo De Borja, Spain

This is the time of year for rosé and, though we have a pageful of excellent French rosés in the front of the newsletter (see here), this little Spaniard endeared itself to us quite readily (and easily, we must add). How? Quite simple-- Quo charmed us. The color is a vivid ruby, ripe strawberry red that instantly catches the eye. The nose is redolent with strawberry and cherry fruits, rose bud and a hint of lemon zest. The palate continues the show-- the mouthfeel is luxuriously viscous and fat and, with the brilliant fresh fruit flavors (more mixed berries, strawberry), might make you think this is more of a sweet rosé. It is, instead, pleasantly dry and will go well with a myriad of summer foods from light grilled fare to meats and cheeses to a grand aioli fête. The finish lingers and leaves a wondrous flavor of strawberries with a hint of cream-- simply delicious and perfect for the season.

$8.95 750ml [380836]

Greece

MERCOURI ESTATE 2009 FOLOI WHITE PISATIS, GREECE

This charming dry white, named after Mount Foloi, is made from a blend of Roditis and Viognier grown on a plateau that is 650 meters above sea level. Pale in color, this white is highly aromatic. The nose displays fruits and flowers; on the palate you find very pleasant stone fruit flavors (white peaches or nectarines); the finish is clean and dry with crisp acidity. This will accompany appetizers by the pool or light fish, seafood and chicken dishes.

Located in the Western Peloponnese, the Mercouri Estate was founded in 1860 and the first vines, cuttings from Italy, were planted in 1870. In 1990, the third and fourth generations of the Mercouri family began replanting the vineyards and renovated and modernized the winery. Their white and red wines are becoming well known on the international market.

$16.98 750ml [300036]

Visiting Australia
By Ann Doyle Stephens

I was fortunate to spend the last two weeks of September 2009 visiting Australia. It is a big country, so my friend and I had to choose what we most wanted to see. We flew from LAX to Melbourne where we spent a few days overcoming jet lag and enjoying that city. We took a commercial tour to the nearby Yarra Valley to visit some wineries. The best winery the tour visited was Domaine Chandon Australia. We next flew to the outback to see Uluru (Ayers Rock) and the surrounding desert. That was fascinating. Next stop was Adelaide where we rented a car so we could visit the surrounding wine areas. Driving on the other side of the road was definitely a challenge!

First stop was McLaren Vale where were very impressed by the wines of d’Arenberg and Hugo Estate. The next morning, we drove through the Adelaide Hills where we stopped at the Bird in Hand Winery. Then on to the Eden Valley where we visited Yalumba, Australia’s oldest family-owned winery. From there we dropped down into the Barossa Valley where we visited Penfold’s and Turkey Flat. The next day we drove about an hour and a half to the Clare Valley where we stopped at the Jim Barry winery and then had lunch with Mall Lawson and his family. Then it was a race to the Adelaide airport (two hours or so away) to get the rental car returned on time.

We then flew to Kangaroo Island just off the coast from Adelaide. Fantastic wildlife viewing there! We spent just an afternoon in Sydney before flying back to LAX. A whirlwind trip but most enjoyable. I fell in love with Australia and definitely hope to return.

This month we are featuring wines from just two of the outstanding wineries I visited. We hope to spotlight the other wineries in the future.

LAWSON WINES

Lawson Wines is a very small, family-owned, boutique wine company. Matt Lawson is a viticulturalist who manages vineyards in several wine growing regions across Australia. He couldn’t resist making some wine on his own and managed to borrow space at a friend’s winery to work on his project.

He sources his Barossa Valley Shiraz from select low yielding vineyards (only 1 to 3 tons per acre!). He believes in minimal intervention and letting the fruit speak for itself. The grapes are fermented in small open fermenters, hand plunged, and left on the skins for as long as possible. He tries to match the power of the fruit with oak to find a balance that will combine to age gracefully for at least 10 years. The wines are bottled without filtration.

We had carried Matt’s wine several years ago and loved the quality and rich flavors. When I recently visited Matt Lawson and his family at their vineyard-adjacent home in the Clare Valley, I was blown away by how well the 2004 and 2003 Reserve have developed and how delicious they are now. Upon my return, we set about sourcing these wines for the store as we think our customers will love these reds.

Lawson Wines 2004 Barossa ShiraZ
The 2004 vintage was exceptional. Thanks to a mild summer and long dry autumn, Shiraz achieved optimum ripeness. The wine is powerful, fruit driven, full bodied and very smooth. Robert Parker gave this a 93 point rating and praised its power and density but also its nuances, elegance and sweetness.

ROBERT PARKER 93 POINTS - "The 2004 Shiraz reveals an opaque purple color as well as more nuances, elegance, and sweetness than the Reserve, but just as much power, muscle, and density. It should drink well for 10-15 years."

$22.98 750ml [378202]

Australia - Aramis

Looking at the category of Australian wine today, you’d think that nearly everyone has given up on them in favor of other areas in other countries, especially those who’ve never bothered to try them. The flood of low-priced, high production wines as well as an obsession with high-scoring, monolithic style fruit bombs discouraged most from really discovering what Australia has to offer. We were once again reminded of this when Lee Flourentzou of Aramis vineyards dropped by recently to share his latest wine releases with us.

Lee pursued his passion to produce rich and intensely flavored red wines when he purchased a 70-acre plot of land, 7 km outside of the township of McLaren Vale back in 1998. He now has 64 acres planted, the majority of which is dedicated Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon vines. His goal is to make wines with ripe (not overripe or port-like) savory fruit with fresh acidity and good aging potential that over-deliver at their price point. After sampling his reds we’d have to agree that he’s accomplished his goal.

Admittedly we love California reds as much as anyone but we’d like to point out that Australia has some seriously great wines to offer at very affordable prices. Considering the rise in domestic wine prices of late, we encourage any and all Shiraz and Cabernet fans to venture out. Any of the wines of Aramis would be a great place to start.

Discovering GrUner Veltliner

OUR TWO CENTS…

It’s no mistake that Italian wines continue to sell well here and we couldn’t be more pleased. Italy remains a virtual breadbasket when it comes to viticulture and anyone who has traveled outside the bigger cities and into the country knows that vines and wineries exist throughout Italy. In every zone there are numerous grape varietals and winemaking practices along with local cultural traditions and cuisine that make Italy more than a little intriguing. The magic for us is not only in offering the hallmark premium wines like Barolo, Barbaresco, Brunello and the like, but also in providing you with the best possible regional wines and encouraging you to explore them at the table. Since the number of quality regional wines continue to increase in availablility, the time for Italian wines has never been better.

That being said, we’ve had quite a lot of questions concerning the current and upcoming vintages relating to Tuscany and Piemonte and wanted to briefly address them.

When it comes to Tuscany, the 2004 vintage was outstanding in Chianti but a bit less so on Montalcino in our estimation. There are certainly some excellent Brunellos but they are fewer in number and we bought accordingly. We think some wine journalists were a bit generous here in overstating the vintage. The 2005 vintage was a bit more problematic. There are some wonderful Chiantis that are elegant and ready to drink but it was a more challenging vintage in terms of weather conditions. This is especially true in Montalcino where the 2005 Brunellos lack the depth and structure normally associated with the category. The 2005 Brunellos are lighter and drinking early. 2006 for both Chianti and Brunello is outstanding. We predict there will be a lot of demand for the 2006 Brunellos releasing next year and we expect the scores to be high.

For Piemonte, 2005 was a difficult vintage. We recently spoke with one prominent member of the wine press who opined that 2005 is a very good vintage for Barolo and we have to respectfully disagree. There are some who made good wines but the vast majority were affected by rains at harvest and the resulting wines lack fruit weight and depth. Barbaresco fared better in our opinion as the top producers made some very nice wines. The same journalist was not as complimentary about the 2006 Barolos and we once again have to disagree. Yes, there were a few wineries that were unfortunately affected by hail but the vast majority, especially in Castiglione Falletto, Seralunga and Monforte made very good wines and we’re putting our money here rather than 2005.

PRODUTORI DEL BARBARESCO 2005 BARBARESCO
A team you can count on! In our opinion, Produttori del Barbaresco is one of the true gems of Piemonte. Their Barbaresco (not to mention their exceptional single vineyard wines) remains one of the best values in the category and a benchmark from vintage to vintage. When others may not always live up to their reputation, Produttori continues to deliver consistent quality. This 2005 is simply outstanding, especially in light of the price. It’s a classic from start to finish and it will only improve with time.

$29.98 750ml [301400]

Batič 2005 Rosso Reserve, Vipavska Valley
We came across this excellent red and decided to feature it despite the fact that the slick paper used on the labels became scuffed by the cardboard inserts in the boxes during shipping. The damage is cosmetic only; the wine inside the bottles is first rate. The Batič family has been growing grapes and making wine in the Vipava Valley since 1592. Their winery lies on 18 hectares of land on the westernmost edge of Slovenia, 15 miles from the Italian border. Historically, the Vipava Valley has undergone continuous changes of authority. It was under the command of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy, Italy, Yugoslavia and now Slovenia, a member of the European Union. Father and son team Ivan and Miha Batič farm organically, as their ancestors did. They have an almost spiritual dedication to land, vine, wine and local tradition.

In the best years Batič produces a Bordeaux Blend simply called Rosso. The 2005 vintage is only the third example of Rosso produced since 1997. This is a serious - almost voluptuous - cuvée of a selection of their verybest Merlot (about 70%), Cabernet Franc (about 20%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (about 10%) from their best situated and oldest vines. The wine displays aromas and flavors of both red and black fruits. It has good body and a long finish. Matured for more than 12 months in local Slovenian barrels, it will age gracefully for another decade or more. Although the wine is young and benefits from thirty or more minutes of air, it is so good that it’s hard to resist to drinking this now with lamb and beef dishes.

$34.98 750ml [372410] 

Spain

The Juan Gil Story
Jumilla, Spain, the home El Nido, Clio, Wrongo Dongo and more.

Jumilla is one of those small Spanish wine regions that labored in near obscurity for generations, but there is a wealth of indigenous vines and sunshine and Jumilla is quickly becoming a star.  The Juan Gil family are clearly among the best of the region and their El Nido “Clio" is the most requested Spanish wine in our store, but don’t forget the less pricey Juan Gil that they built their name upon.  The Juan Gil Jumilla gets consistent accolades including a listing in Wine Spectator top 100 list for 2009 for the 2006 bottling.  

In looking at the vineyard, you see the magic of Jumilla—old vine Mourvedre (here called Monastrell), grown in field of limestone rocks that look like a quarry bed. These gnarled, head-pruned vineyards yield little, on average vineyards in Jumilla yield 0.6 tons/acre--among the lowest yields in the world.  The limestone helps keep the vigor down while elevating the natural acidity and brightening the aroma.  Châteauneuf-du-Pape enjoys a similar limestone subsoil which can be crucial in warmer regions as the added acidity helps keep these wines from tasting over-ripe.  Jumilla is also a high altitude growing area with the Gil family’s properties grown at 700m (about 2,300ft), providing a mix of warm days and cool nights that winemakers look for all over the world.

Juan Gil “Wrongo Dongo” Jumilla 2008
We tasted this wine in Spring of last year, months before it landed in America.  It tasted great as a pre-release, but it’s showing even better today.  If you want a succulent and un-fussy introduction to Spanish wines, this would be a great place to start.  The wine has a violet-purple color and equally impressive saturation of black plum, raspberry and fine spices on the palate.  In fact the richness and texture are off the charts for $6.99.  It also doesn’t hurt that the new label is pretty mod and cool looking—much better than the funny yellow guy of past years.

$6.99 750ml [377132] 

Juan Gil Jumilla 2007
While the newly released 2007 does not have a rating yet, every vintage from 2002-2006 received 90 points or better from The Wine Advocate.  Look for a brightness of fruit here like raspberries and blueberry jazzed up with a thread of fresh, natural acidity.  There is also more serious edge here as the wine shows earth, toasty oak, and a hint of mocha/coffee--a modern classic in that we’re happy to see back in the store with the new 2007 vintage.

$13.99 750ml [373831] 

Atalaya Almansa 2007
Here is an intriguing newcomer from the Gil Family.  The first vintage of Atalaya recently received 91 points from Robert Parker and The Wine Advocate, “This purple-colored wine has an expressive bouquet of violets, spice box, leather, game, blueberry and black cherry. On the palate it comes off as borderline kinky and definitely sexy with lots of easy-going flavor, superb depth, complexity and a 45-second finish. Although it can be enjoyed now, it will evolve for another 2-3 years.”  While the “kinky” and “sexy” descriptors make us snicker a little, there is definitely something hedonistic and flashy about this wine.  Could it be the Garnacha Tintorera in the blend?  Native to the hills of Almansa adjacent to Jumilla, Garnacha Tintorera is one of the rare grapes whose juice runs red rather than simply picking up its color from contact with the skins and is well known for powerful color and deep flavors.

$12.99 750ml [380659] 

Bodegas El Nido “Clio” 2007, Jumilla
A big part of the success of the Juan Gil winery and the families many projects is the talented partners they work with across Spain.  El Nido is a project the Gil family put together with their dynamic and creative American importer, Jorge Ordonez.  The Gil Family and Jorge Ordonez extended the partnership to include one of Australia’s most talented winemakers, Chris Ringland.  “Clio” is a Jumilla with a twist as the blend includes 30% Cabernet Sauvignon in addition to the core of Monastrell at heart of the other Jumilla wines.  The 2007 is the 4th vintage-- the previous three scored very highly in the Wine Advocate: 97pts for 2004, 95pts for 2005, and 95pts again for the 2006.  All we can say is get the 2007 while it lasts.

$41.99 750ml [377064] 

Bodegas El Nido “El Nido” 2007, Jumilla
The super-premium “big brother” of “Clio” reverses the blend with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon.  There is very little produced in a normal year and production was down severely.  We won’t get much and it’s definitely a splurge, but the track record is impressive: 99 points for the 2004 “El Nido,” 98 points for 2005, and 97 points for 2006, all from the Wine Advocate.

$124.95 750ml [379659] 

New Wines—New Partnerships
More from the Gil Family and Friends

In May of 2009, we met with the Gil family’s importer Jorge Ordonez and got our first taste of three new exciting white wine projects, Shaya, La Cana, and Avanthia.  Just as El Nido was built out of a very modern cross-continental partnership, these three new wineries include the Gil Family, importer Jorge Ordonez, a cast of local winemakers, local vineyard owners, and flying international winemakers.  In fact the Gil family is a bit uncomfortable with the spotlight  and prefer to let the talent of the winemakers and vineyard managers come to the fore.  All the same, we found the common threads in these projects intriguing and the wines are certainly delicious.

Shaya Rueda 2008
This a very bright and zesty white wine.  The Rueda region’s Verdejo grape has a flavor profile that is similar to Sauvignon Blanc in its citrusy core of ruby grapefruit and intense lime fruit.  The Shaya Rueda definitely shows its citrus side but also brings aromas of blossoms and hints of riper apricot and tropical fruit on the palate.  Australian winemaker Belinda Thompson artfully integrates a thread of slate minerality from some very old vines that adds interest from the nose to the long finish.

$12.99 750ml [380760] 

La Cana Albarino 2008, Rias Baixas
The La Cana is a wine that will surprise you with its zip.  It shows a mix of nectarine and apricot that is pure Albarino, but it is fresher and crisper than most with a subdued note of minerality on the mid-palate and finish that is just enough to make the wine-geeks happy.  The winemaker here is Alister Gardner from New Zealand and while the flavors are purely a reflection of Spanish soils and grapes, the wine’s artful balance of fruit and acidity holds the same excitement of many New Zealand wines.

$14.99 750ml [380768] 

Avanthia Godello 2008 Valdeorras
The partnership at Avanthia includes the Valdeorras winery Godeval as well as Jorge Ordonez and the Gil Family.   Housed in a 13th century monastery, Godeval single handedly worked to bring the Godello grape back from the brink, making the first modern Godello based wine in 1985.  Avanthia is a special 400cs production that brings together the talents of Godeval with Jorge Ordonez, the Gil Family, and winemaker Alister Gardner.  On first take the Avanthia is some-what like a White Burgundy with its cream-chiffon lemon fruit and gentle mix of cinnamon, nutmeg, and gentle oakiness.  There is something riper underneath and wine turns gradually towards peach and papaya flavors.  As with Alister Gardner’s winemaking on the La Cana, there is a mix of ripeness and crisper flavor profiles—an intriguing winemaking tightrope of sorts.  The Avanthia is not inexpensive, but it is pretty serious wine.

$26.99 750ml [380789] 

A Bit About 2005 Barolos

Over the years we’ve learned to take our time and make our own informed decisions about specific vintages and the corresponding wines that apply rather than relying solely on an array of wine journalist opinions. This involves traveling, attending proper tastings and talking with numerous growers and winemakers in order to form more accurate opinions. We do this in an effort to offer you the best in selection and education as is possible.

This past year we tasted a couple hundred Barolos, which afforded us an excellent snapshot of the 2005 vintage for Barolo. What is very clear is that the rains that hit at harvest affected a large percentage of the growers. More specifically, those who picked after the rains were far less likely to have richer more complex wines while those fortunate enough to have harvested prior to the rain made good to outstanding Barolo. Considering the prior outstanding string of vintages and the upcoming 2006s and 2007s, we bought very carefully in 2005 to ensure the best for our customers. This month we’ve chosen to mention a few excellent 2005 values.

CAVALLOTTO 2005 BAROLO “BRICCO BOSCHIS”
We wrote about this wine in our December newsletter as one of our top Italian Wines of 2009 but felt it deserved another mention. The Cavallottos have been making great wines for a long time and their 2005 Barolo is quite an accomplishment considering the weather challenges of the vintage. Things we especially appreciate about the Baroli of Cavallotto are that they not only capture the intriguing fruit and elegance of Casiglione but also are somewhat approachable for drinking on release yet age incredibly well.

WINE ADVOCATE 93 POINTS - “The 2005 Barolo Bricco Boschis is gorgeous and linear in its expressive aromatics and focused core of fruit. Medium in body, the wine reveals outstanding balance and depth, with gorgeous inner perfume and a long, refined close. Sweet notes of menthol, raspberries and spices linger on the finish. The 2005 doesn’t have the sheer exuberance of the 2004 and the firm tannins might make this wine hard to fully appreciate in its infancy, but with some time in bottle, this, too, will very likely develop into a gem. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025.”

$54.98 750ml [301146]

Montenegro

Plantaze 2007 Vranac “Pro Corde” Lake Skadar, Montenegro
Crna Gora, or Montenegro, as it is called outside of its borders, is a small country across the Adriatic from Southern Italy. There is a long tradition of viticulture in Montenegro dating back to at least the second century BC. Montenegro, which has only 650,000 inhabitants, just became independent in 2006.

Vranac is an ancient red grape varietal native to the Balkans. While not much is known about the origin of this grape variety, it is widely assumed that it is a relative of Plavac Mali (Croatia) which is the descendent of a naturally occurring hybrid of Zinfandel (Crljenak Kastelanski) and Dobricic.

Like Plavac and Zinfandel, Vranac displays a dark ruby color and a fairly full body. This red tends to be strong and savory, sometimes pretty rustic. The Pro Corde by Plantaze Winery is a reserve quality example of an extremely well-made Vranac produced with selected grape material from this sizable estate. Pro Corde is Latin for “good for the heart”. Vranac Pro Corde carries this name due to its increased content of pranthocyandiols, which are anti-oxidants found naturally in grapes.

This crowd pleaser sports a deep, almost purple color with deep rich black fruit flavors. Black berries and supple cherry tones dominate the aromas, bursting into a pleasurable harmonious experience on the palate. At the same time there are smoky or savory elements, like some Rhone reds. The Plantaze 2007 is drinking very well now. This is great with smoked meats, sausages, grilled vegetables and, of course, a nice cut of steak.

$14.98 750ml [372413]