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Featured Sparkling Wines

CHAMPAGNE OF THE MONTH

THE RETURN OF TARLANT

TARLANT BRUT “TRADITION”

It has been seven years since we were last able to sell Tarlant Champagnes. We must say that they are even better than we remember. This family-run estate has to be one of the most dynamic firms in the Marne Valley. Jean-Mary Tarlant and his son, Benoit, carry on the family’s Champagne tradition that started back in 1687. The family organically farms 28 acres of vines including Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier hillside plantings from the outstanding Notre-Dame and Longue Attente plots. The fruit from these sites is an important component for their “Tradition” cuvée, which is a blend of 55% Pinot Noir, 45% Pinot Meunier and 10% Chardonnay. This Brut was aged on the yeast for five years prior to disgorgement, a costly practice that has, no doubt, contributed to this Champagne’s impressively opulent texture and flavor nuance. This, then, is a full-bodied, richly textured cuvée that seamlessly showcases pleasing notions of spice cake, honey, mature red fruits and vanilla. Despite its considerable richness and maturity, this Tarlant possesses an underlying vibrancy and finesse. A super Champagne value that fans of full-throttle bubbly will adore.

$36.98 750ml [325736] 


FIZZ FIND

NOT YOUR MOTHER’S PROSECCO

COSTADILA PROSECCO “330 SLM”

With the Prosecco category's increasing popularity we are seeing more and more bottlings vying for shelf space. Most of the new contenders taste very much alike and are pleasantly forgettable. One big exception is this highly original Costadila “330slm.” The “330slm” designation refers to the average altitude (over level of the sea or Sopra Livello del Mare in Italian) of Costadila’s vines in meters. The estate is located in Serre, a village situated in the central Trevisan hills and historically an important Prosecco area. The vineyard is a mix of Prosecco, Bianchetta, Perera and Verdiso vines with average age of 30 years planted on a bed of limestone, clay and marlstone. This ingeniously made bubbly is not made with a second tank fermentation like most other Proseccos. For the “330” most of the grapes are pressed and made into a still dry wine while a second portion of the crops is left out to dry and shrivel achieving dessert wine sweetness. Juice from the sweet batch is then added to the dry wine. The bottle is then capped and left to re-ferment. The entire process takes place without the addition of commercial yeasts, sugar or enzymes. Because the yeast sediment remains in bottle one has the option to enjoy this bubbly clear or cloudy. If one lets the sediment settle on the bottle’s bottom and pours slowly, the taster encounters a delightfully fresh fizz filled with the peach and orchard fruit characteristics that one associates with a good Prosecco but with the added benefit of enhanced minerality and flavor length. If you decide to turn the bottle upside down and mix the yeast sediment with the wine, the bubbles become less apparent (they are felt not seen) and intriguing bread-like and smoke inflections are added to the ensemble. Rarely does one find so much flavor interest and drinking pleasure at such a modest price.

$16.98 750ml [325738] 


Previously Featured...

Champagne Value Duo

Last month, we held two well-attended wine bar tastings focusing on the terroir of Champagne. The first event focused on the Côtes des Blancs while the second one investigated the Montagne de Reims region. While all the bottles showed well, we felt that two Champagnes (one from each event) really stood out as best buys. Both really held their own against excellent Champagnes costing twice their price and they certainly deserve to be spotlighted again for your consideration. By the way the third and last installment of our Terroir of Champagne survey will be held at our wine bar Thursday, August 12th.

LE MESNIL BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND CRU
We introduced this co-op-produced Champagne from the famed Côte des Blancs village of Mesnil-sur-Oger about 18 months ago and quickly sold it out. That Champagne was fashioned entirely from 2002 Chardonnay juice, while this successor is mostly drawn from the 2004 and 2005 vintages. If anything, this sequel surpasses the 2002 as it represents a richer, more mouth-filling expression of Le Mesnil’s noble terroir. One of the unique aspects of Le Mesnil Champagnes is that the vineyards of the village are planted with a special clone of Chardonnay that is noted for its pronounced apple-like varietal flavor and for its penetrating perfume. This Blanc de Blancs honors its noble origins by offering up billowing aromas of wisteria and apple blossoms followed by vibrant tastes of pippin apples and bosc pears interlaced with inflections of chalk and lemon meringue. A deliciously authoritative aperitif that works well with or without food.

$35.98 750ml [325462] 


ANDRE CLOUET BRUT “GRAND RESERVE” GRAND CRU
We weren’t too surprised about how well this Bouzy Brut held up to the other powerhouse bottlings in our Montagne de Reims shootout since winemaker Jean-Francois Santz-Clouet is known for his fanatical devotion to quality. Thanks to an ancestral land grant from Napoleon, Jean-Francois has the privilege of working with some of the best-situated vines on the sweeping slopes of Bouzy. His “Grande Reserve” is a 100% Pinot Noir Cuvée that was aged six full years on the yeast. Styled along the lines of Bollinger’s Special Cuvée (but with less oxidative toastiness) this Clouet really grabs one’s attention with its full-throttle strawberry, wheat kernel and stone flavors that are graced with a pleasing touch of cream in the mid-palate and finish. Definitely a “food” Champagne that will work wonders with creamy pastas, poultry and richer seafoods.

$37.98 750ml [305520] 


 

L. AUBRY BRUT PREMIER CRUT
We’ve long been supporters of estate-bottled or “grower” Champagne for the quality, value and singular individuality that the best among them have to offer – and there are none better than those from iconic importer Terry Theise. One of best and perhaps most iconoclastic producers in Terry’s portfolio is Aubry, a family firm best noted to be one of the only growers to commercially produce Champagne from the extraordinarily rare varietals: Petit Meslier, Arbanne and Fromenteau. We recently had a chance to get reacquainted with Aubry’s more mainstream (50% Pinot Menuier, 25% each Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) Brut Premier Cru cuvée at our wine bar and we were absolutely floored by its richness and complexity. There are a lot of impressive Champagnes in the Terry Theise book, but none that’s a better value. If you don’t believe us here is what the Wine Advocate had to say last December: “...wonderfully expressive on the nose. Exotic passion fruit, dried apricots, spices and mango emerge from the creamy textured, mid-weight frame. The wine continues to blossom on the palate in an utterly captivating display of class. Quite simply, this is an incredible wine at this price point. 91 Points.”

$34.98 750ml [378247] 


Fizz Find - Natural Sparkle, Pet’nat and All That

ROCHER DE VIOLETTES 2006 MONTLOUIS PETILLANT NATUREL
Throughout the wine world a new generation of winemakers is pursuing a more natural, non-interventionist approach to their wines. This rather courageous rejection of modern winemaking remedies requires pristine grapes and consequently a lot more care and cost in the vineyard. The payoff, if all goes well, is a more delicious wine that is truly expressive of a sense of place. In France, one of the leading centers of this new natural wine scene is the Loire Valley. It was here in the early 1990s that Christian Chaussard first made a sparkling Vouvray by simply letting his wine re-ferment in the bottle. Today, across the river from Vouvray in Montlouis, a growing band of Chaussard’s disciples is zealously applying his gospel of naturalistic sparkling production forming the vanguard of the Petillant Naturel (or Pet’Nat) Movement. Our favorite to date of this nascent Pet’Nat genre is this bone-dry beauty from Xavier Weisskopf. Here fully ripe, organically-grown Chenin Blanc was naturally re-fermented without the addition of commercial yeasts, sugar, sulfur compounds and enzymes. What the taster does encounter is a luminous, pale gold liquid with a very gentle mousse (CO2 pressure is about half of that found in Champagne) that releases a parade of aromas that are suggestive of pastry dough, Nilla Wafers and butter. The palate is luxuriant with subtle notions of apple, sourdough, casaba melon and chalk. The way this sparkler changes and evolves in the glass is a marvel to behold and is likely a function of the diverse mix of indigenous yeasts that were employed. Definitely a must for bubbleheads with inquiring palates. Look for additional Pettilant Naturel releases latter this summer.

$18.95 750ml [325711] 


New Releases

Andre Beaufort Brut Rosé Ambonnay Grand Cru
One of the most spectacular Rosé Champagnes we acquired last year is finally back in stock. This is lot 06R that was just disgorged this past March. It is composed primarily of Ambonnay Pinot Noir from the superb 2002 vintage. Like its predecessor, this is a dense, food-oriented Rosé that is chockablock with aromas and flavors of flambéed cherries, citrus, smoke and wet stones. Truly a Champagne of tremendous depth, it could even get better with another year on the cork to display its true splendor.

$84.98 750ml [325528] 


Jacques Selosse Blanc de Blancs "Initial"
Anselme Selosse is, of course, one of the most lionized winemakers in France and his Champagnes have been "cult" collectibles for over a quarter century. We just received a tiny allocation of Anselme's classic Brut "Initial". It is an assemblage of three vintages aged 2 years before disgorgement and is a good representation of the Selosse style. Very limited.

$129.98 750ml [325423] 


Wedding Bell Bubbles

Our goal this month is to assist harried party hosts on tight budgets that are planning events to launch new brides and grads. Of course these value-oriented sparklers are also just the ticket for summer’s casual patio dining and entertaining scenarios.

JAUME SERRA CRISTALINO CAVA BRUT
We know that we are hardly breaking new ground with this recommendation, but any roster of value fizz would be sorely lacking without this ever-so-consistent player. This Brut is a blend of three Catalonian white varietals (50% Macabeo, 35% Parellada, and 15% Xarel-lo) all grown in Jaume Serra’s own vineyards. Cristalino is made by the Metodo Tradicional (i.e. the classic Champagne process) and aged on the yeast twice the minimum nine month term required for official Cava designation. It is always pleasantly devoid of the earthy/coarse flavors that are so common in fizz at this low price point. On the contrary, this budget bubbly offers attractive apple/pear fruit aromas and flavors that are nicely complemented by a hint of bread dough while its aftertaste is clean and not overly tart.

$6.99 750ml [377288] 


GUINOT BRUT 'IMPERIAL TENDRE' CREMANT DE LIMOUX
While part of Langeuedoc-Rouissillon Appellation of Southern France, the vineyards of Limoux are much higher and cooler than others in the region. Interestingly, the history of sparkling wine production in Limoux predates that of Champagne. Documents show that the town’s Abbey of St.-Hilaire developed cork-stoppered sparkling wine in 1531, more than a century earlier than Dom Perignon. This staff favorite is a blend dominated by crisp Mauzac fruit (the local grape) rounded out with Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. This bubbly presents an impeccably fresh apple fruit demeanor toned with gentle acidity and light touch of vanilla and yeast flavors. Probably the most impressive feature of this Guinot offering is its silken texture which is a by-product of a four-and-a-half year regimen of aging on the lees.

$11.98 750ml [325673] 


MARQUES DE GELIDA 2005 CAVA BRUT “EXCLUSIVE”
This Cava represents a considerable step up in price from Cristalino, but it also presents a very price-worthy step up in quality. All its grapes are drawn from the firm’s own vineyards in the Superior Penedes, a district that is blessed with predominately calcareous soil and the highest altitude in the region. The juice for this 2005 is strictly selected from the best first pressing (about 50% of the selected harvest). In this cuvée, local Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo grapes are augmented with 15% Chardonnay. Rather than the minimum nine months aging sur lattes, this Cava spent 42 months in the bottle prior to release. The result is a very classy bubbly that presents a very fine bead in the glass and offers a luxurious creaminess to complement its lip-smacking orchard fruit flavors. Finally-- a Yellow Label bubbly we can all afford.

$12.98 750ml [325704] 


GRAHAM BECK BRUT CAP CLASSIQUE
Here is an elegant, deftly-crafted New World bubbly that has a distinctly Old World aura to it. It was made using the traditional Methode Champenoise, which is called Methode Cap Classique in South Africa. It is a blend of 53% Chardonnay and 47% Pinot Noir all from the Western Cape Province. Sporting a pale golden shimmer followed by inviting aromas of nectarines and peach cobbler; this mouth-watering bubbly really impresses with its fine mouthfeel and its graceful interplay of raspberry fruits with citrus and biscuity undertones. A great Champagne substitute for alfresco entertaining if there ever was one.

$12.59 750ml [325538] 


CHATEAU DE L’AULEE CREMANT DE LOIRE BRUT ZERO
Arnaud Heraud and his wife Myriam, who learned her craft working as the winemaker at Champagne Bollinger for fifteen years, own this small Loire Valley château. Their sparkler is made from 100% estate-grown Chenin Blanc grapes all from the 2007 vintage. Fashioned via the traditional Champagne method, this Brut was aged on its lees for 20 months prior to disgorgement and was bottled without the addition of sugar in the dosage. Clearly bone-dry but not austere, this sparkler presents a fine gossamer texture and proffers exceedingly fresh aromas and flavors of pears, apples and white peaches. This bubbly makes a great foil for shellfish and sashimi and is a very savvy choice for the budget-conscious epicure.

$13.95 750ml [325547] 


TRIBAUT SCHLOESSER “LE BRUT”
This is a great call for those occasions when money matters (doesn’t it always) but nothing but real French Champagne will do. Champagne Tribaut Schloesser is a blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier and 30% Chardonnay with 20-40% reserve from older blends. This micro-marque Brut is a very approachable Champagne whose flavor profile is dominated by citrus and orchard fruits flavors such as apples, pears and lemon curd. Its forward fruit is enhanced with a creamy, doughy component that makes this an ideal party Champagne.

$25.99 750ml [325653] 


ROEDERER BRUT PREMIER
There is no denying that pouring a big name Champagne at functions really makes a memorable statement. Bollinger, Krug, Veuve Clicquot and Roederer, for example, all make Champagnes that are synonymous with class and quality. In our judgement, of these prestigious brands, Roederer’s Brut Premier currently offers by far the best quality/price ratio. Brut Premier has always been the embodiment of the rich Louis Roederer house style, one that combines all the fruitiness and freshness of youth with the vinosity of a fully mature wine. It is truly an important yardstick by which all other muti-vintage Bruts should be measured.

WINE SPECTATOR 91 POINTS - "Light and lively, featuring apple, toast, ginger and light vanilla flavors. Balanced and on the dry side, with a creamy texture and a lingering butter pastry aftertaste. Drink now through 2011."
This also was one of the few Champagnes to grace the magazine’s 2009 Top 100 list.

$33.98 750ml [358750] 


FRESITA
This new offering from Chile is really a perfect call for bridal/ baby showers and elegant brunches. It’s sort of like a pre-mixed Bellini that’s made with strawberries instead of peaches. Robert Parker writes: “A curiosity, but one that is fun to smell and taste, is this sparkling blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay that has been infused with hand-harvested Patagonia strawberries... An aperitif-styled offering that exhibits a wonderfully crisp, refreshing note of... not surprisingly... strawberries. An alluring eccentricity, it is aromatic, light-bodied, crisp, fresh and lively with a delicate rose color.” Note that it is best to gently invert the bottle before serving so that the strawberry pulp is evenly dispersed.

$15.98 750ml [325559] 


FOREST-MARIE BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS
Of course, we are big fans of the taut, mineral-laden Chardonnay Champagnes of the Cote de Blancs and sell many excellent examples. However, while quite rare, outstanding Blanc de Blancs can also be produced from small islands of Chardonnay vines situated in that ocean of Piont Noir known as the Montagne de Rheims. A great example is this Forest-Marie Blanc de Blancs which presents the genre in a deliciously accessible, dare we say, hedonistic, guise. This cuvee, which is a blend of 2004 (45%) and 2005 (55%), reveals developed aromas of apple pie and nougat which accurately presage its luxuriant, spicy apple and brioche-tinged palate. This is a true “show stopper” that works really well with or with out food and is a tremendous value to boot.

$35.98 750ml [325699] 


ALMA NEGRA 2007 SPARKLING MALBEC ROSE
This month’s fizz find hails from Argentina where Malbec rules supreme. While the Malbec grape is famed for its inky color and robust flavors that are just the thing for barbecued carne asada, it is hardly the material that one would expect to use to make a refined, world-class sparkler. Well, the skilled team at Catena Vineyards has done just that. Though the name Alma Negra means “dark soul,” this amazingly refined sparkler perfectly captures Malbec’s pale, free run essence or, “Alma Rosa.”

WINE ADVOCATE 90 POINTS - "It is medium pink-colored with lovely strawberry, rhubarb, and raspberry aromas. Elegant on the palate, it has surprising grip and length. Both of these sparkling wines are excellent values for drinking over the next 1-2 years.”

$15.98 750ml [325686] 


Champage, and sparkling wines in general,  will always have a certain je ne sais quoi that will keep opposing teams on their toes or heels. Part of it is the bubly nature of its being, but part is also rooted in the tradition and fundamentals stretching back over centuries that helped make Champagne what it is. Champagne can floor you with grace, freeze you with style or blow by you with power-- in any case, Champagne is always one to watch (in this case, one Champagne, one  Jura).
 

ANDRE ET MAREILE TISSOT BRUT CREMANT DU JURA
From France’s remote region of the Jura, sandwiched between Burgundy and Switzerland, comes the biodynamic (a vigorous form of organic viticulture) estate of André et Mireille Tissot. David Schildknecht, of The Wine Advocate, calls the estate’s sparkling wine “...among the finest traditional method sparklers for the money grown anywhere in the world.”  We might even go so far as to say that, outside of Champagne, it is probably the finest French sparkling wine we’ve ever encountered.

Produced in the classic, bottle-fermented method, Tissot’s Crémant de Jura is comprised of 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir. An aromatic dead-ringer for good Champagne, the wine has, nonetheless, its own distinctive Jurassien personality—with a nose of toasted semolina, lemon oil, cider, baker’s yeast and apricot pith, it expands beautifully on the palate with almonds, walnuts and orchard fruits, underscored by more lemons, chalk and a deliciously persistent, salty minerality. Very Brut with only .6% of residual sugar, this outstanding sparkler is an 'as good as it gets' short top-flight grower Champagne and is a remarkable discovery to say the least.

$22.98 750ml [325677] 


ULYSSEE COLIN (2005) EXTRA BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS
A protege and former apprentice of Anselme Selosse, Oliver Collin is one of Champagne’s most passionate and charismatic grower-producers. This Blanc de Blancs is only Oliver’s second commercial vintage but it’s a knockout nonetheless. It is a product of the 2005 vintage made entirely from a special two-and-a-half acre plot called “Les Perrieres” whose Chardonnay vine’s age averages 30 years. The site slopes to the southeast and features thin topsoil over a foundation of soft chalk and carbonated silex- a rare combination in Champagne. Collin farms organically and keeps yields exceedingly low to better express the vineyard’s terrior. The grapes were pressed in a traditional (1950s era) Coquard Press and were slowly fermented with indigenous yeasts over a three month period. Elevage took place in seasoned (5-year-old) Burgundian barrels for 12 months and was neither fined nor filtered prior to bottling. This ’05 was disgorged without dosage after two and one-half years on the yeast- six months less than the time required for an official vintage Champagne designation. These practices have wrought a stunningly fresh Chardonnay Champagne that deftly juxtaposes intense fruit, vivid acidity and light oak with a distinctive streak of sea shell-like minerality. Antonio Gallioni, of the The Wine Advocate, is spot on with his glowing remarks: “[It] is a striking wine loaded with a mineral-laced expression of Chardonnay fruit. This taut, focused wine reveals a notable inner tension, showing awesome focus and clarity. Notes of salinity on the finish recall great Chablis…93 Points.”

$64.98 750ml [325679] 


PLOYEZ-JACQUEMART EXTRA BRUT “PASSION”
This small family operation, which is nestled in Ludes in the heart of the Montagne de Reims, is a definite “must see” for anyone touring Champagne. The firm has one of the deepest, most picturesque cellars in the region and offers accommodations at their very elegant B&B. P-J’s non-vintage Brut has long been one of our faves, but her new “EBP” limited edition Laurence Ployez-Krommydas has really taken the NV Brut genre to the next level. It is three-quarters Grand and Premier Cru juice from the excellent 2004 vintage. To add structure, a third of the wine was aged in aged in oak without undergoing malolactic fermentation. Further complexity was imparted by the addition of 25% reserve wines. After 4 years aging sur-lees, the “EBP" was disgorged and topped off with an ultra low dosage. This “Passion’s” style is dryer and more subtle than Claude Carré’s (see below), but it is a real charmer nonetheless. It is fresh and complex, honeyed (not toasty) and is impeccably dry without being the least bit austere. All in all, a remarkable tour de force at it modest price point.

$39.98 750ml [325595] 


J. LASSALLE 2002 BRUT “CUVEE ANGELINE”
While grower Champagnes are rightly all the rage these days, we have been in the game since the early '80s when we first fell in love with the exuberant Champagnes of Olga and Chantal Lassalle. “Angeline” is the firm’s prestige cuvée and is a classic blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. “Angeline” is created with an old-fashioned wooden basket press, aged on the yeast for 6 years, and is finally riddled by hand in the traditional manner. These practices, along with the family’s impeccable fruit, have wrought a Champagne with excellent depth and complexity. Aromas of ripe Macintosh apples mingled with hints of strawberries and bakery scents dominate its bouquet. In the mouth this Brut is creamy yet firmly structured as it showcases highly focused red berry notions in the front palate, while lip-smacking citrus and nougat inflections emerge in the finish. With a few more years aging on the cork, this ’02 will certainly rival the legendary 1996 “Angeline.”

$49.98 750ml [325516] 


CHARLES GARDET BRUT SELECTED RESERVE
Situated in the Montagne de Reims hamlet of Chigny-les-Roses near J. Lassalle, Gardet is a small (5,000 cases per year), family-run firm that produces a range of wonderfully expressive Champagnes at prices that are way under the market. Their offerings are so remarkable that we included two in this year’s “best of” roster. This Brut’s full-tilt Edwardian style is as nostalgic as the bottle’s retro label. It is a golden, broad-shouldered Champagne that has an almost chewy texture along with heaps of toasty baguette, honey and baked apple flavors. This rich mouthfeel and complexity is the result of a costly eight-year aging regime and enables this modesty priced Brut to outsize, if not outclass, Bollinger’s Special Cuvée.

$34.98 750ml [325591] 


ANDRE JACQUART BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS “EXPERIENCE”
Andre Jacquart is a family-owned Champagne operation based in Vertus on the Côte des Blancs. “Experience” is a new endeavor that is made from 100% barrel-fermented and -aged (8 months) Chardonnay from the family’s Grand and Premier Cru vineyards. Wisely, a light hand was applied with the oak so the Chardonnay and mineral flavors take the spotlight while the wood just contributes fascinating background atmospherics of ginger, vanilla and spice. Oodles of sophistication and flavor interest for the money.

$39.98 750ml [325483] 


VEUVE FOURNY 2002 BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS 1ER CRU
The Fourny brothers, Charles and Emmanuel, are definitely one of the Côte des Blancs' most dynamic duos. Organic farming, well-situated old vines and the judicious use of seasoned oak barrels are the key reasons for this firm’s meteoric rise to prominence. The brothers believe in keeping their dosage levels as low as possible to better enable the Vertus terroir to be expressed in their wines. Situated in the Côtes des Blancs next to Mesnil-sur-Oger, the village of Vertus is a bit higher and cooler than its neighbor. This climatic factor gives the Fourny Champagnes their signature high-toned acidity and floral aromatics. For this 2002, Emmanuel allowed the malolactic fermentation to proceed creating a Champagne that that is at once elegant and pure while at the same time redolent with the rich fruit that is the hallmark of this outstanding vintage.

$45.98 750ml [325545] 


CHARLES GARDET 2002 BRUT ROSE DE SAIGNEE 1ER CRU
This 2002 is a blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Meunier from mature grapevines that average 30 years of age. Its striking salmon pink hue is achieved by macerating or “bleeding” color from the skins of the grapes. This is a tricky, labor-intensive method that is rarely practiced today. Most producers simply adjust their rosé’s color with still red wine. This is a weighty, well-evolved rosé that offers appetizing aromas and flavors of flambéed cherries, carob, stones and smoke. Lingering hints of sweetness on the finish enable this Champagne to pair well with the richer fare found on the Holiday table.

$35.98 750ml [325592] 

   
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Hi-Time Wine Cellars | 250 Ogle Street | Costa Mesa, CA 92627
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