Sparkling Wine

CHAMPAGNE OF THE MONTH
 

CLAUDE CARRE BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS 1ER CRU $36.98 [#325317]  
The small Champagne estate of Claude Carre specializes in producing only Blanc de Blancs exclusively from the Premier Cru village of Trepail. The soil of Trepail is a chalky marl (with high limestone content) and the hamlet is a highly regarded “island of Chardonnay” located in Champagne’s “sea of Pinot Noir”-- the Montagne de Reims. All of Claude’s Chardonnay vines are fully mature and are blessed with a mid-slope elevation and a perfect southeasterly exposure. His cuverie is a masterpiece of design and cleanliness. The structure is built across many levels of cellars so the entire Champagne process can be totally gravity-driven. Malolactic fermentation is not blocked and no oak is utilized which all works to make his Blanc de Blancs very seductive and pure. This mono cru bottling is a blend of three vintages with the lion’s share (70%) being from the excellent 2002 harvest. In the flute steady streams of bubbles release scents of assorted citrus fruits backed by a pleasing cinnamon roll dough aroma. Lip-smacking Pippin apple and lemon custard flavors dominate the palate while the penetrating finish reveals savory accents of toast and chalk. This modestly priced Blanc de Blancs really delivers major flavor intensity and sophistication, qualities that most Big Name Houses don’t come close to creating except in their expensive tete de cuvees.

Features from Last Month

HENRI ABELE 1996 BRUT MILLESIME RESERVE $54.98 [#352177]   
While the popularity of French Champagne in U.S. has never been greater, Americans still ten to stick to the tried and true NV Bruts sadly overlooking the vintage segment where the most interesting and memorable Champagnes are to be found. With respect to vintages, 1996 is now regarded as the best Champagne year since 1985. It’s a not-to-be missed vintage that is even more important to the Champagne lover than 2000 is to a Bordeaux collector. As Importer, Terry Theise, says; “Great ‘96’s are incomparable. The essential flavors of Champagne have never been, could never be, more clearly rendered. They are ripe but galvanically urgent and sizzling.” If one ignores a few super expensive tete de cuvee bottlings, the better 1996 Champagnes have completely disappeared from store shelves. That is with the notable exception of this surprise parcel of ’96 Henri Abele that we were lucky enough to snag. Roughly equal parts Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay, this 1996 has spent 8 years aging on the yeast and another four years aging on the cork. Because of the great acid structure of the vintage, this twelve year-old has just reached the threshold of maturity. This Wine Spectator review from late 2006 describes this beauty quite succinctly: “Dry and savory, featuring biscuit, grapefruit, tobacco and dried peach notes. Vivid, with a grainy texture and a long, supple finish. As much about texture as flavor. Drink now through 2020. 94 Points.” With the recent flurry of steep Champagne price increases, this 1996 Henri Abele has become an even better buy today than it was when it was first released two years ago.

PLOYEZ-JACQUEMART 1996 BRUT “LIESSE D’HARBONVILLE” $125.99 [#325254]
While quite fresh and showing the formidable structure of the vintage, this luxury Champagne really delivers the power and the majesty that one expects in a true luxury Champagne. Ployez-Jacquemart is still very much an insider’s Champagne; however, last year the house was shoved into the European spotlight when the prestigious La Revue du Vin de France gave the firm the highest ranking of any boutique Champagne producer. The “Liesse d’ Harbonville” cuvee is the family’s shining jewel and is a rigorously selected blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes. Primary fermentation took place in 225-liter casks and the wine was allowed to work in barrel for six months without malolactic fermentation prior to bottling sans filtration. It was then aged on yeast for a decade prior to release. This patient labor of love has wrought wondrous, golden Champagne with delicate aromas of apple sauce, lemon blossoms, biscuits, and oak while lemon comfit, ginger, mineral and discreet oak undertones grace the palate. This classic doesn’t really need time but three to five years of aging will undoubtedly yield further dividends.

DE VENOGE 1996 BRUT “CORDON BLEU” MILLESIME $55.98 [#352225]
This medium-sized firm had been off our radar screen for quite a while so we were shocked and delighted by this 1996’s incredible poise, purity, and drinkabliity. With just 10% Chardonnay this De Venoge is a black grape Champagne that is dominated by Pinot Noir from top crus including Ay and Verzenay. A year ago The Wine Spectator’s Bruce Sandersen, raved: “Very fruity. Displays both the exotic aromas and the vivid structure of 1996. Lychee, pineapple and papaya aromas mingle with lemon and mineral flavors. Well-balanced, with the exotic fruit notes returning on the finish. Still needs time. Drink now through 2020. 1,250 cases made. 93 Points”

VARNIER-FANNIER BRUT ZERO BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND CRU $42.98 [#305222]
Making great Champagnes is always something of a high-wire act, but when there is no employment of sugar in the dosage, the cellar master is really performing without a net. The key to success here is to use flawless fruit with ample ripeness and ensure that malolactic fermentation is completed. In this high stakes game Avize proprietor/winemaker Denis Varnier has triumphed in producing a utterly natural Chardonnay Champagne whose lacey pear, lemon drop and limestone flavors are seamlessly woven together. This then is a real tour de force and a “must buy” for those who prize terroir, precision and finesse.

PAUL DETHUME 2000 BRUT MILLESIME GRAND CRU $51.98 [#325258]
We are big fans of Henri Billiot and Egly-Ouriet but these fine estates are in for stiff competition from their (new to us) neighbor Paul Dethune. Among the Ambonnay producers, winemaker Paul Dethune is probably the village's biggest proponent of oak for fermentation and elevage prior to bottling. That said, we must stress that the oak in this 2000 definitely takes a back seat to the wonderful exposition of Pinot Noir fruit. This majestic black grape beauty announces itself with evocative smells of raspberries, plums and just-baked baguettes. This is a round, full-framed Champagne that emits waves of mouth-watering red berry and citrus fruits that are beautifully complimented with creamy autolysis and subtle oak inflections. A great call for your Christmas goose.

CHARTOGNE-TAILLET 2000 BRUT “CUVČE FIACRE” $59.98 [#352179]
We have long regarded “Fiacre” as a classy “thinking man’s” tete de cuvee. This 2000 could be the best edition ever. It is a classic blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir utilizing only the most desirable juice from the “center cut” (i.e. coeur de cuvee) of the pressing. This beauty opens with a fabulous array of scents that are suggestive of sweet almond pastry and Bosc pears embellished by floral notes of jasmine and honeysuckle. In the mouth one encounters luminous, well-toned quince and red berry fruit essences that gradually become subsumed by lively citrus, spice and stone elements in the resounding finish.

CAMILLE SAVES BRUT “CARTE BLANCHE” $44.98 [#379136]
The Montagne de Reims village of Bouzy is famed for producing some of Champagne’s grandest, most vinous Pinot Noir based bottlings. Saves along with Jean Vesselle are arguably the stars of the village. Allen Meadows, “The Burghound”, recently inked this praise for their “white label”: “Quite fruity with an airy, even layered quality to the nose with solid depth and plenty of punch and energy to the firm but not aggressive finish that delivers ample length. This is one of those pleasant examples that could be easily approached now because of the complexity the high [75%] percentage of Pinot contributes, yet I would hold this for at least 3 years.” A couple of weeks back we tasted this along side Bollinger’s excellent Brut “Special Cuvee” and found their flavors to be remarkably similar except that the Saves had better structure and a bit more flavor intricacy.