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Rhone

 

2005 COTES DU RHONE SMORGASBORD!
Over these many years, we’ve learned that looking back is often more fruitful than embracing the “latest and the greatest.” Case in point, 2006 Rhone! It’s certainly not a bad vintage and eventually will have a role to play as a useful, serviceable commodity. However, don’t let anyone tell you that the wines are at the same quality niveau as 2005! We’ve tasted quite a few basic Cotes du Rhone now (as well as several Chateauneuf du Pape) and our money is still on the stellar 2005s! Not only is the vintage superior, it’s often cheaper given the ongoing decline of the US dollar vis-a-vis the Euro. We’ve managed to corral several real nice buys but move quickly as these will fly!

 

COTES DU RHONE 2005 DOMAINE GRAND NICOLET $11.99 [#360502]  
Grand Nicolet has quite rapidly emerged as one of our favorite Cotes du Rhone ambassadors based upon the wine’s penchant for high quality, well-crafted wines that deliver well beyond their price point! Their basic Cotes du Rhone is very well done with all sorts of bright red fruits along with hints of exotic spice, white pepper and garrigue.


COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES 2005 “RASTEAU” DOMAINE GRAND NICOLET $15.99 [#306008] 
Even more alluring is their Cotes du Rhone Villages which proffers all sorts of dark berry, dark cherry fruits in conjunction with supporting vectors of sundry peppercorn, smoked meats and anise. (Spectator 91)


COTES DU RHONE 2005 “CUVÈE 3 SOEURS” DOMAINE BESNARDEAU $11.99 [#360504]  
It’s second time around for this wonderful Cotes du Rhone that was a huge success all throughout last year’s holiday season! Back by popular demand!


COTES DU RHONE 2005 “CUVEE ANTIQUE-VV” DOMAINE FERRAND $15.95 [#309554]  
We love this estate’s minimalist approach which embraces a “less is more” ethos. Traditionally produced, the wine nevertheless proffers rich plum, black cherry and forest berry fruits accented with snappy hints of spice, Asian tea and licorice. It’s delicious!


COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES 2005 “3 CEPAGES” DOMAINE LES APHILLANTHES $18.99 [#306009]   
This superb Cotes du Rhone Villages is, in reality, a doppelganger for a well-done Gigondas! Wonderfully dark fruit accents solid waves of plum, black cherry and crème de cassis with hints of tar, black pepper, game and sweet earth. (Spectator 90)


COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES 2005 “CAIRANNE-FONT D’ESTEVENAS” DOMAINE ALARY $21.99 [#306010]  
Here’s another traditionally wrought wine that combines power and finesse with sundry rich flavors of mixed red and black fruits accented smartly with hints of fig, licorice, smoked meats and game. This superb wine could easily pass for a Chateauneuf-du-Pape in a blind tasting! (Spectator 90)
 
Features from Last Month

RHONE 2005…NEW ARRIVALS!
A veritable plethora of new arrivals from the Rhone’s outstanding 2005 vintage are currently awaiting your perusal on our cellar floor. We can tell you that we have already had the opportunity to sample many Rhones from the 2006 vintage and, while they are good, let’s just say they’re not quite at the same quality level as 2005. And they may be more expensive given the ongoing decline of the US dollar! It may be easy to dismiss 2005 as “just another great Rhone vintage” but the fact of the matter is 2005 resides at a quality level not likely to be seen again in the global warming era. The vintage has everything! The northern, Syrah-based wines are superb in combining luxurious fruit with well-integrated, ripe acidity and balance. The Grenache-based wines of the south explode on the palate with serious fruit; yet maintain a modicum of restraint and balance that bodes incredibly well for any kind of ageing or cellaring scenario. We urge quick and decisive action on the Rhone Valley in 2005! It may seem like an embarrassment of riches but as was recently pointed out by an astute local critic, things have a way of turning on a dime with the distinct possibility of a long string of sub par vintages. After all, it’s happened in the Rhone before!

CROZES-HERMITAGE 2005 “CUVEE PARTICULAIRE” DOMAINE REMIZIERES $19.95 [#357753]   
Those who prefer the darker cherry/plum fruits engendered by the Syrah-based wines of the north will love this classically configured Crozes that’s nicely nuanced with hints of brown spices and peppercorn.


GIGONDAS 2005 DOMAINE ST. COSME $25.99 [#321560]   
This very well done Gigondas leads off with an enticing nose of violets and mixed cherry fruit followed by an exceedingly well-balanced and sophisticated palate of mixed red and black raspberry nuanced with hints of sundry peppercorns. Really well done at a great price!


CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE 2005 DOMAINE MARCOUX $59.95 [#308987]  
Marcoux still stands as one of our favorite estates in Chateauneuf du Pape! This traditionally-styled Chateauneuf du Pape delivers classic vectors of bright cherry/cherry jubilee fruit accented with hints of mincemeat, graham cracker and sweet earth. Simply delightful!


CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE 2005 “BERGETON” PATRIC LESEC $69.95 [#305841]  
If, on the other hand, you prefer high-octane, full-throttled Chateauneuf du Pape that has a lot more in common with Aussie Shiraz from Barossa than most of the southern Rhone wines we tend to recommend and enjoy, than you will love this high-scoring production that delivers massive fruit from start to finish in conjunction with blasts of hedonism-gone-wild! Enjoy! Robert Parker 94+


ST. JOSEPH 2005 “AMARYBELLE” YVES CUILLERON $44.95 [#306359]   
Cuilleron’s “Amarybelle” is annually one of our most anticipated arrivals! There’s nothing like a good “St. Joe” for maximizing your dollar investment while settling and calming the end of a hectic day. We enjoy them on a regular basis and so should you! It’s all here! Blackberry scented, meaty rich fruit displays a depth of complexity and finesse closer to that of a Cote Rotie. Hints of pepper and sassafras deftly accent the wine’s delightful red raspberry, boysenberry fruit. Clean, balanced and a joy to behold!


COTE ROTIE 2005 DOMAINE CHAMPET $39.95 [#306545]    
From the renowned Eric Solomon portfolio comes a wine that, quite frankly, shocked us in terms of the bang-for-the-buck potential at play. We had never heard of or worked with this estate but looking at the price and the vintage were willing to roll the dice on a couple of cases! BOY IS THIS GOOD! It’s surprisingly traditional in bringing a complex palate of meaty, spice nuanced fruit into play that combines warm vectors of dark plum and blackberry. Long and focused on the finish with pleasing hints of spice and sweet earth, here’s a TRUE FIND that delivers great Cote Rotie at a reasonable price!


ST. JOSEPH 2005 CHAVE $49.99 [#304119]   
From the master himself, Jean-Louis Chave, comes a superb St. Joseph that’s simply sublime! Down in the cellars of Jean-Louis Chave, you’ll see history breathing! (Thanks to AS for that wonderful little ditty!) LIMITED!


COTE ROTIE 2005 JASMIN $59.95 [#303140]  
Jasmin delivers a Cote Rotie in 2005 that’s classic in every sense of the word! Beautiful black fruits abound with hints of anise, peppercorn and fresh leather; this wine is a connoisseur’s delight! Beautiful!
 


COTE ROTIE 2005 “TERRES SOMBRES” YVES CUILLERON $99.99 [#306362]   
This could very well be the best wine we have ever tasted from Yves Cuilleron! The wine leads off with a scintillating nose of perfume and violets followed by a ravishing palate of black raspberry, black cherry and plum. Delightful hints of sundry brown spices, maple and assorted peppercorn adds an intriguing dimension to the wine’s perfection. Yves Cuilleron has painted his masterpiece!


MUSCAT BEAUMES DE VENISE 2005 DOMAINE DURBAN $29.95 [#304589]    
Rarely do we focus on sweet dessert wines from the Rhone but this gem is worthy! Durban has long been thought to be the best producer of dessert Muscat in the Rhone and they’ve hit a home run in 2005 with an unctuous effort that combines ripe dollops of peach, nectarine, apricot and pear. This could well be the best ever from Durban! Also available in 375 ml bottles (#300174/$18.95).   


  The past 12 months marked another banner year for France’s Rhone Valley! Outstanding wines from virtually every appellation were led, of course, by the stellar Chateauneuf-du-Pape from the 2005 harvest.
   This was a difficult list to put together as there are currently so many great Rhone wines both in our store and in general circulation. Nevertheless, we’ve done our best to focus, rightfully we believe, on the southern Rhone and the tremendous bounty of richness that Mother Nature provided to us all over the course of the past year! Perhaps no other region of France delivers the bang-for-the-buck quality/price ratio that the Rhone does! We’re positive you’ll enjoy each and every one of this delightful “baker’s dozen!”


LIRAC 2005 “CLOS SIXTE” ALAIN JAUME $17.95 [#302788] 

This impeccably wrought wine came in just before Christmas and could very well be the best Lirac we have ever tasted! From Alain Jaume of Domaine Grand Veneur comes a ripe and ready, richly configured wine that delivers all sorts of blackcurrant, blackberry, mulberry, boysenberry and blueberry fruits nuanced nicely with subtle hints of spice, tea leaf and sweet smoke. The wine’s liqueur-like, regal fruit composed of Grenache (50%), Syrah (35%) and Mourvedre (15%) is not at all contrived and is instantly recognizable as coming from France/southern Rhone. It’s truly a revelation that a Lirac from the Rhone Valley can be this good! Nice wine, nice price! Wow! Don’t miss out on this!


CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2005 “REINE DES BOIS” DOMAINE DE LA MORDOREE $110.00 [#303563]
Here’s another Chateauneuf from the Fran Kysela portfolio that, in a very real sense, is in a league all its own! “Reine des Bois” translates into English as the “Queen of the Forest.” This outstanding Chateauneuf is indeed regal! It combines powerful, yet sophisticated dollops of black fruits galore with enticing elements of rustic herbs, sweet earth, truffles and spice. Meaty, structured and full-bodied, it is clearly capable of a long-term cellaring play, par excellence! “Reine des Bois” verily defines perfection as there’s not one feather out of place! It’s a natural gift for the discriminating wine enthusiast aiming to lay a cornerstone for his or her collection. The 2005 marks a “back-to-back” championship for “Reine des Bois” as they won last year’s #1 Rhone slot as well. Once again, congratulations to Christophe Delomme of La Mordoree for producing what could very well be the top wine of the vintage for the Rhone in 2005!


CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE 2004 CUVEE REINE DES BOIS DOMAINE DE LA MORDOREE [#373754] 
“A brilliant wine. Deep ruby/purple color with big sweet notes of smoky blackberries and cassis intermixed with kirsch, licorice and some roasted meat smells. In the mouth, there is an inkiness to the flavors and a profound richness that has to be tasted to be believed. It is a beauty and certainly one of the most concentrated and impressive wines of the 2004 vintage.”
Robert Parker 93-95


CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2005 “CUVÈE CLASSIQUE” DOMAINE MONPERTUIS $34.95 [#302669]
Those, on the other hand, who prefer a traditionally styled wine and believe that less is actually more, will adore this textbook example of classically styled Chateauneuf-du-Pape that speaks to the glory of Grenache and the efficacy of terroir. Balance, finesse and a refined sense of place are the hallmarks of the Monpertuis portfolio and in 2005 they’ve hit one out of the park with one of the best efforts we can ever remember! (Tanzer 91-94) We also have a limited amount of their “Cuvee Tradition” ($54.95 /#302670) that’s larger than life, almost Wagnerian in scope. This gentle giant retains, nevertheless, that sense of balance and place, which are the trademark signatures of Neal Rosenthal wines. (Tanzer 94-96)


CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2005 DOMAINE FERRAND $44.95 [#306192]
This property has become one of our favorites as they have recently strung together an unprecedented run of superb Chateauneuf-du-Pape starting back with their 2001! Proprietor Charles Bravay has done it again in 2005 with a superb Chateauneuf that Parker describes as both “impressive” and a “wine not to be missed!” The Bravay style is one of classic restraint and balance! Traditionally wrought, wines from Ferrand speak to an old-fashioned Rhone tradition in combining generous Grenache fruit with a definite sense of place.
Robert Parker 93


COTE ROTIE 2003 “BRUNE AT BLONDE” GUIGAL $59.99 [#306098]
This past year saw the release of Guigal’s superb 2003 Cote Rotie. It’s not often that we can include northern Rhone goodies in these compilations as, more often than not, the quantities simply aren’t there. Here’s an outstanding Cote Rotie that’s classic in every sense of the word! Yes, 2003 was a very ripe vintage! However, the high elevations of the vineyards from which Guigal sources as well as a judicious triage in the cuverie has produced a stunning wine that speaks to the exquisite nobility of the Syrah grape! Robert Parker 93


CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2005 CHARVIN $59.95 [#306193]
Charvin’s wines are prized for their longevity and we still recall fondly a luncheon enjoyed here at which some really incredible old bottles were pulled for all to enjoy! Perhaps the most underrated superstar of the entire Rhone Valley, Charvin’s wines defy logic in the sense that they are accessible yet age extremely well. Delicate and balanced, they are nevertheless powerful and complex. Charvin’s wines do not always give up everything upon first taste! They need to be decanted, aged and cellared; in short, romanced! They evolve wonderfully both in glass and bottle! Very classical and quintessential old school, they are always underscored. We would add 2 to 3 points to Mr. Parker’s very conservative score!  Robert Parker 93


HERMITAGE 2003 GUIGAL $79.95 [#304560]
Here’s another northern Rhone beauty that speaks to the venerable regality of the Syrah grape. There are always so many options for our annual “Top Rhone” list, yet so few of them are from the north that we felt compelled to include this gem along with the above noted Cote Rotie from Guigal. It’s a fantastic effort that will definitely reward with a bit of cellar time. It’s a bit more linear than the rounded Cote Rotie but still delivers ripe, clean and ample Syrah fruit that speaks to the generosity of the vintage as well as that hallowed piece of earth known as Hermitage.  Robert Parker 94

 
Rhone Whites
THREE TERRIFIC WHITES!
In no particular order, we recommend three white Rhone for your holiday edification!

CONDRIEU 2005 GUIGAL $44.95 [#315000]
This superb effort (100% Viognier) delivers sophisticated streams of sundry tropical fruits nuanced with hints of litchi, honey butter and floral. Parker calls it, “a home run!” 
Wine Advocate 91


CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 2006 DOMAINE VIEUX TELEGRAPHE $54.95 [#307989]
This is, in our opinion, the best Vieux Telegraphe Blanc ever! It’s delightfully clean with wonderfully refreshing flavors of white stone peach, apricot and dried nectarine. Hints of cashew nut, acacia and fresh flowers add additional complexity to this superb effort that’s quite buoyant thanks to its well-integrated, riveting acidity. Parker says, “Don’t miss it!” 
Wine Advocate 92


HERMITAGE BLANC 2003 GUIGAL $39.95 [#309664]
Unctuous, rich and oily, try this with seafood or poultry preps utilizing butter or creme sauces. It’s a powerful white that delivers exotic flavors of acacia, honey, anisette, apricot and candied white peach. Parker calls it, “the best white Hermitage ever produced by Guigal!” 
Wine Advocate 94

 

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Hi-Time Wine Cellars | 250 Ogle Street | Costa Mesa, CA 92627
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