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2005 COTES DU
RHONE SMORGASBORD!
Over these many years, we’ve learned that
looking back is often more fruitful than
embracing the “latest and the greatest.” Case in
point, 2006 Rhone! It’s certainly not a bad
vintage and eventually will have a role to play
as a useful, serviceable commodity. However,
don’t let anyone tell you that the wines are at
the same quality niveau as 2005! We’ve
tasted quite a few basic Cotes du Rhone now (as
well as several Chateauneuf du Pape) and our
money is still on the stellar 2005s! Not only is
the vintage superior, it’s often cheaper given
the ongoing decline of the US dollar vis-a-vis
the Euro. We’ve managed to corral several real
nice buys but move quickly as these will fly! |
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COTES DU RHONE 2005 DOMAINE GRAND
NICOLET $11.99 [#360502]

Grand Nicolet has quite rapidly emerged as one
of our favorite Cotes du Rhone ambassadors based
upon the wine’s penchant for high quality,
well-crafted wines that deliver well beyond
their price point! Their basic Cotes du Rhone is
very well done with all sorts of bright red
fruits along with hints of exotic spice, white
pepper and garrigue. |
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COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES 2005 “RASTEAU”
DOMAINE GRAND NICOLET $15.99 [#306008]

Even more alluring is their Cotes du Rhone
Villages which proffers all sorts of dark berry,
dark cherry fruits in conjunction with
supporting vectors of sundry peppercorn, smoked
meats and anise. (Spectator 91) |
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COTES DU RHONE 2005 “CUVÈE 3 SOEURS”
DOMAINE BESNARDEAU $11.99 [#360504]

It’s second time around for this wonderful Cotes
du Rhone that was a huge success all throughout
last year’s holiday season! Back by popular
demand! |
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COTES DU RHONE 2005 “CUVEE ANTIQUE-VV”
DOMAINE FERRAND $15.95 [#309554]

We love this estate’s minimalist approach which
embraces a “less is more” ethos. Traditionally
produced, the wine nevertheless proffers rich
plum, black cherry and forest berry fruits
accented with snappy hints of spice, Asian tea
and licorice. It’s delicious! |
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COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES 2005 “3 CEPAGES”
DOMAINE LES APHILLANTHES $18.99 [#306009]

This superb Cotes du Rhone Villages is, in
reality, a doppelganger for a well-done
Gigondas! Wonderfully dark fruit accents solid
waves of plum, black cherry and crème de cassis
with hints of tar, black pepper, game and sweet
earth. (Spectator 90) |
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COTES DU RHONE VILLAGES 2005
“CAIRANNE-FONT D’ESTEVENAS” DOMAINE ALARY $21.99
[#306010]

Here’s another traditionally wrought wine that
combines power and finesse with sundry rich
flavors of mixed red and black fruits accented
smartly with hints of fig, licorice, smoked
meats and game. This superb wine could easily
pass for a Chateauneuf-du-Pape in a blind
tasting! (Spectator 90) |
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Features from Last Month |
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RHONE 2005…NEW ARRIVALS!
A veritable plethora of new arrivals from the Rhone’s outstanding 2005 vintage
are currently awaiting your perusal on our cellar floor. We can tell you that we
have already had the opportunity to sample many Rhones from the 2006 vintage
and, while they are good, let’s just say they’re not quite at the same quality
level as 2005. And they may be more expensive given the ongoing decline of the
US dollar! It may be easy to dismiss 2005 as “just another great Rhone vintage”
but the fact of the matter is 2005 resides at a quality level not likely to be
seen again in the global warming era. The vintage has everything! The northern,
Syrah-based wines are superb in combining luxurious fruit with well-integrated,
ripe acidity and balance. The Grenache-based wines of the south explode on the
palate with serious fruit; yet maintain a modicum of restraint and balance that
bodes incredibly well for any kind of ageing or cellaring scenario. We urge
quick and decisive action on the Rhone Valley in 2005! It may seem like an
embarrassment of riches but as was recently pointed out by an astute local
critic, things have a way of turning on a dime with the distinct possibility of
a long string of sub par vintages. After all, it’s happened in the Rhone before! |
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CROZES-HERMITAGE 2005 “CUVEE PARTICULAIRE” DOMAINE REMIZIERES $19.95 [#357753]

Those who prefer the darker cherry/plum fruits engendered by the Syrah-based
wines of the north will love this classically configured Crozes that’s nicely
nuanced with hints of brown spices and peppercorn. |
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GIGONDAS 2005 DOMAINE ST. COSME $25.99 [#321560]

This very well done Gigondas leads off with an enticing nose of violets and
mixed cherry fruit followed by an exceedingly well-balanced and sophisticated
palate of mixed red and black raspberry nuanced with hints of sundry
peppercorns. Really well done at a great price! |
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CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE 2005 DOMAINE MARCOUX $59.95 [#308987]

Marcoux still stands as one of our favorite estates in Chateauneuf du Pape! This
traditionally-styled Chateauneuf du Pape delivers classic vectors of bright
cherry/cherry jubilee fruit accented with hints of mincemeat, graham cracker and
sweet earth. Simply delightful! |
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CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE 2005 “BERGETON” PATRIC LESEC $69.95 [#305841]

If, on the other hand, you prefer high-octane, full-throttled Chateauneuf du
Pape that has a lot more in common with Aussie Shiraz from Barossa than most of
the southern Rhone wines we tend to recommend and enjoy, than you will love this
high-scoring production that delivers massive fruit from start to finish in
conjunction with blasts of hedonism-gone-wild! Enjoy!
Robert
Parker 94+ |
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ST. JOSEPH 2005 “AMARYBELLE” YVES CUILLERON $44.95 [#306359]

Cuilleron’s “Amarybelle” is annually one of our most anticipated arrivals!
There’s nothing like a good “St. Joe” for maximizing your dollar investment
while settling and calming the end of a hectic day. We enjoy them on a regular
basis and so should you! It’s all here! Blackberry scented, meaty rich fruit
displays a depth of complexity and finesse closer to that of a Cote Rotie. Hints
of pepper and sassafras deftly accent the wine’s delightful red raspberry,
boysenberry fruit. Clean, balanced and a joy to behold! |
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COTE ROTIE 2005 DOMAINE CHAMPET $39.95 [#306545]

From the renowned Eric Solomon portfolio comes a wine that, quite frankly,
shocked us in terms of the bang-for-the-buck potential at play. We had never
heard of or worked with this estate but looking at the price and the vintage
were willing to roll the dice on a couple of cases! BOY IS THIS GOOD! It’s
surprisingly traditional in bringing a complex palate of meaty, spice nuanced
fruit into play that combines warm vectors of dark plum and blackberry. Long and
focused on the finish with pleasing hints of spice and sweet earth, here’s a
TRUE FIND that delivers great Cote Rotie at a reasonable price! |
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ST. JOSEPH 2005 CHAVE $49.99 [#304119]

From the master himself, Jean-Louis Chave, comes a superb St. Joseph that’s
simply sublime! Down in the cellars of Jean-Louis Chave, you’ll see history
breathing! (Thanks to AS for that wonderful little ditty!) LIMITED! |
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COTE ROTIE 2005 JASMIN $59.95 [#303140]

Jasmin delivers a Cote Rotie in 2005 that’s classic in every sense of the word!
Beautiful black fruits abound with hints of anise, peppercorn and fresh leather;
this wine is a connoisseur’s delight! Beautiful!
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COTE ROTIE 2005 “TERRES SOMBRES” YVES CUILLERON $99.99 [#306362]

This could very well be the best wine we have ever tasted from Yves Cuilleron!
The wine leads off with a scintillating nose of perfume and violets followed by
a ravishing palate of black raspberry, black cherry and plum. Delightful hints
of sundry brown spices, maple and assorted peppercorn adds an intriguing
dimension to the wine’s perfection. Yves Cuilleron has painted his masterpiece! |
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MUSCAT BEAUMES DE VENISE 2005 DOMAINE DURBAN
$29.95 [#304589]

Rarely do we focus on sweet dessert wines from
the Rhone but this gem is worthy! Durban has
long been thought to be the best producer of
dessert Muscat in the Rhone and they’ve hit a
home run in 2005 with an unctuous effort that
combines ripe dollops of peach, nectarine,
apricot and pear. This could well be the best
ever from Durban! Also available in 375 ml
bottles (#300174/$18.95).
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The past 12 months marked another banner year
for France’s Rhone Valley! Outstanding wines
from virtually every appellation were led, of
course, by the stellar Chateauneuf-du-Pape from
the 2005 harvest.
This was a difficult list to put together as there are currently so
many great Rhone wines both in our store and in
general circulation. Nevertheless, we’ve done
our best to focus, rightfully we believe, on the
southern Rhone and the tremendous bounty of
richness that Mother Nature provided to us all
over the course of the past year! Perhaps no
other region of France delivers the
bang-for-the-buck quality/price ratio that the
Rhone does! We’re positive you’ll enjoy each and
every one of this delightful “baker’s dozen!” |
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LIRAC 2005 “CLOS SIXTE”
ALAIN JAUME $17.95 [#302788]

This impeccably wrought
wine came in just before Christmas and could very well be the best Lirac we have
ever tasted! From Alain Jaume of Domaine Grand Veneur comes a ripe and ready,
richly configured wine that delivers all sorts of blackcurrant, blackberry,
mulberry, boysenberry and blueberry fruits nuanced nicely with subtle hints of
spice, tea leaf and sweet smoke. The wine’s liqueur-like, regal fruit composed
of Grenache (50%), Syrah (35%) and Mourvedre (15%) is not at all contrived and
is instantly recognizable as coming from France/southern Rhone. It’s truly a
revelation that a Lirac from the Rhone Valley can be this good! Nice wine, nice
price! Wow! Don’t miss out on this!
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CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2005 “REINE DES BOIS” DOMAINE DE LA MORDOREE $110.00 [#303563]

Here’s another Chateauneuf from the Fran Kysela
portfolio that, in a very real sense, is in a
league all its own! “Reine des Bois” translates
into English as the “Queen of the Forest.” This
outstanding Chateauneuf is indeed regal! It
combines powerful, yet sophisticated dollops of
black fruits galore with enticing elements of
rustic herbs, sweet earth, truffles and spice.
Meaty, structured and full-bodied, it is clearly
capable of a long-term cellaring play, par
excellence! “Reine des Bois” verily defines
perfection as there’s not one feather out of
place! It’s a natural gift for the
discriminating wine enthusiast aiming to lay a
cornerstone for his or her collection. The 2005
marks a “back-to-back” championship for “Reine
des Bois” as they won last year’s #1 Rhone slot
as well. Once again, congratulations to
Christophe Delomme of La Mordoree for producing
what could very well be the top wine of the
vintage for the Rhone in 2005! |
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CHATEAUNEUF
DU PAPE 2004 CUVEE REINE DES BOIS DOMAINE DE
LA MORDOREE [#373754]

“A brilliant wine. Deep
ruby/purple color with big sweet notes of
smoky blackberries and cassis intermixed
with kirsch, licorice and some roasted meat
smells. In the mouth, there is an inkiness
to the flavors and a profound richness that
has to be tasted to be believed. It is a
beauty and certainly one of the most
concentrated and impressive wines of the
2004 vintage.”
Robert
Parker 93-95 |
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CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2005 “CUVÈE CLASSIQUE”
DOMAINE MONPERTUIS $34.95 [#302669]

Those, on the other hand, who prefer a
traditionally styled wine and believe that less
is actually more, will adore this textbook
example of classically styled
Chateauneuf-du-Pape that speaks to the glory of
Grenache and the efficacy of terroir. Balance,
finesse and a refined sense of place are the
hallmarks of the Monpertuis portfolio and in
2005 they’ve hit one out of the park with one of
the best efforts we can ever remember!
(Tanzer
91-94) We also have a limited amount of
their “Cuvee Tradition” ($54.95
/#302670) that’s larger than life, almost
Wagnerian in scope. This gentle giant retains,
nevertheless, that sense of balance and place,
which are the trademark signatures of Neal
Rosenthal wines. (Tanzer 94-96) |
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CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2005 DOMAINE FERRAND $44.95
[#306192]

This property has become one of our favorites as
they have recently strung together an
unprecedented run of superb Chateauneuf-du-Pape
starting back with their 2001! Proprietor
Charles Bravay has done it again in 2005 with a
superb Chateauneuf that Parker describes as both
“impressive” and a “wine not to be missed!” The
Bravay style is one of classic restraint and
balance! Traditionally wrought, wines from
Ferrand speak to an old-fashioned Rhone
tradition in combining generous Grenache
fruit with a definite sense of place.
Robert Parker 93 |
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COTE ROTIE 2003 “BRUNE AT BLONDE” GUIGAL $59.99
[#306098]

This past year saw the release of Guigal’s
superb 2003 Cote Rotie. It’s not often that we
can include northern Rhone goodies in these
compilations as, more often than not, the
quantities simply aren’t there. Here’s an
outstanding Cote Rotie that’s classic in every
sense of the word! Yes, 2003 was a very ripe
vintage! However, the high elevations of the
vineyards from which Guigal sources as well as a
judicious triage in the cuverie has produced a
stunning wine that speaks to the exquisite
nobility of the Syrah grape!
Robert Parker 93 |
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CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2005 CHARVIN $59.95
[#306193]

Charvin’s wines are prized for their longevity
and we still recall fondly a luncheon enjoyed
here at which some really incredible old bottles
were pulled for all to enjoy! Perhaps the most
underrated superstar of the entire Rhone Valley,
Charvin’s wines defy logic in the sense that
they are accessible yet age extremely well.
Delicate and balanced, they are nevertheless
powerful and complex. Charvin’s wines do not
always give up everything upon first taste!
They need to be decanted, aged and cellared;
in short, romanced! They evolve wonderfully
both in glass and bottle! Very classical and
quintessential old school, they are always
underscored. We would add 2 to 3 points to
Mr. Parker’s very conservative score!
Robert Parker 93 |
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HERMITAGE 2003 GUIGAL $79.95 [#304560]

Here’s another northern Rhone beauty that speaks
to the venerable regality of the Syrah grape.
There are always so many options for our annual
“Top Rhone” list, yet so few of them are from
the north that we felt compelled to include this
gem along with the above noted Cote Rotie from
Guigal. It’s a fantastic effort that will
definitely reward with a bit of cellar time.
It’s a bit more linear than the rounded Cote
Rotie but still delivers ripe, clean and ample
Syrah fruit that speaks to the generosity of
the vintage as well as that hallowed piece
of earth known as Hermitage.
Robert Parker 94 |
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Rhone Whites
THREE TERRIFIC
WHITES!
In no particular order, we recommend three white
Rhone for your holiday edification!
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CONDRIEU 2005 GUIGAL $44.95 [#315000]

This superb effort (100% Viognier) delivers
sophisticated streams of sundry tropical
fruits nuanced with hints of litchi, honey
butter and floral. Parker calls it, “a home
run!”
Wine
Advocate 91 |
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CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 2006 DOMAINE VIEUX
TELEGRAPHE $54.95 [#307989]

This is, in our opinion, the best Vieux
Telegraphe Blanc ever! It’s delightfully clean
with wonderfully refreshing flavors of white
stone peach, apricot and dried nectarine.
Hints of cashew nut, acacia and fresh
flowers add additional complexity to this
superb effort that’s quite buoyant thanks to
its well-integrated, riveting acidity.
Parker says, “Don’t miss it!”
Wine Advocate 92 |
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HERMITAGE BLANC 2003 GUIGAL $39.95 [#309664]

Unctuous, rich and oily, try this with seafood
or poultry preps utilizing butter or creme
sauces. It’s a powerful white that delivers
exotic flavors of acacia, honey, anisette,
apricot and candied white peach. Parker calls
it, “the best white Hermitage ever produced by
Guigal!”
Wine Advocate 94 |