HUNTINGTON 2005 CALIFORNIA PETITE SIRAH
$9.95 [#231270]
About Petite Sirah : Developed in the 1870s in France’s Rhone
region where it is known as Durif or Petite
Syrah, this grape variety is more commonly
known by its slightly anglicized synonym,
Petite Sirah -- particularly in California.
The result of a cross between the noble
Syrah and a relatively minor Rhone variety,
Peloursin, Durif was developed to resist
Powdery Mildew, to which Syrah is
susceptible. Although mildew-resistant, the
tightly-bunched variety was vulnerable to
gray rot in the humid southern Rhone.
Fortunately, the grape has adapted well to
the drier climates of California, and to
those of northeastern Victoria, in
Australia. In fact, the grape has succeeded
better abroad than in its south of France
birthplace, where it is now almost extinct.
Huntington is lead by founder/winemaker Kerry Damskey (pictured),
in truth a California notable. This bottling
is charged with the scent of fresh
blueberries, black fruit, chocolate,
currant, blackberry and black cherry. The
palate is rich and full with soft tannins.
This is an amazing wine with its subtle
layers of fruit and a berry intensity that
shows refinement and finesse in every sip.
No hyperbole here – this one has garnered
quite a devoted following among both
customers and staff, and what a price!
REVANA 2005 NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON
$125.00 [#254480]
Revana’s fith vintage affirms this winery’s commitment to being one
of the best Cabernet producers in the
valley. After Dr. Revana purchased the
property in St. Helena he hired two
exemplary Napa personalities, veteran
vineyard manager Jim Barbour and winemaker
Heidi Peterson Barrett (Paradigm, ex-Dalla
Valle, ex-Screaming Eagle).
Robert Parker noted that this winery seems to be hitting its stride
with delicious Cabernet Sauvignon. Every
vintage has received critical acclaim and
sold out quickly. And the 2005 vintage is
arguably their finest yet! It exudes
elegance. The aromas are beautifully
perfumed and the palate shows layers of
flavor, silky texture and explosive yet
refined fruit. It is truly an exceptional
wine. Heidi’s tasting notes are right on the
money, “Dark ruby in color with deep aromas
of black cherry, coca powder, toast, and
spice. On the palate it is very elegant and
silky with bright purity of fruit and medium
body. The cherry flavors echo the aromas.
Nice mid-palate texture without a trace of
raw tannins. Good length at this tasting
which will only get better with time in the
bottle. Oak is used only as an accent here
and adds to the layering of flavor
components and complexity. Great potential.”
Hi-Time
Exclusive Only 60 bottles made-- this lot was
chosen by winemaker Sean Foster from his
favorite barrel!
Merryvale is
pure class. Across the board, from the
Starmont Series through the single-vineyard
bottlings to the prestige cuvees (Portfolio
and Silhouette) and the decadent Antigua
dessert wine, the wines are expertly crafted
and vineyards managed with microscopic
scrutiny. This is the first vintage of their
estate grown Syrah co-fermented with Viogner.
It is extremely limited and tastes fabulous
– a classic example of Old World finesse and
New World richness, characterized by
exceptional poise and balance all the way
through. Subtle aromas of raspberry,
boysenberry, violets and peppermint are
followed by a panoply of bright red fruit
flavors including red currant and cherries.
There is a slight vanillan quality and the
tannins are modest. The long, delightful
finish is slightly tinged with trademark
Syrah notes of leather and roasted meats. A
succinct summation? This is just one fine
bottle of red wine!
AMAVI 2005 WALLA WALLA VALLEY CABERNET
SAUVIGNON $24.95 [#200620]
Our customers have been seeking more wines
from Washington’s Walla Walla Valley;
well,well – you’re going to enjoy this one.
It’s a real find. Amavi (“loving life”)
Cellars is a small, family- owned operation
focusing on estate-vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon and Syrah. WINE SPECTATOR
called the 2005 a “top-rated” value and
awarded it 92
POINTS with the following
comments: “Ripe and rich, a full-bodied,
generous Cabernet Sauvignon that focuses its
dark-toned berry, black olive and pepper
flavors beautifully. The tannins are present
on the finish but can’t stop the fruit.” We
would append that the addition of Syrah adds
“bonus” details of spice to the smooth and
supple cassis and black cherry fruit.
Focused, bright, polished and immediately
delicious.
STEVENOT 2005 “DANZA ROJA” SIERRA FOOTHILLS
RED $14.95 [#279700]
We’ve raved about this adventurous Calaveras
County winery before, and we’re at it again!
Lead by long time winemaker Chuck Hovey, the
estate vineyard holds no less than 18
different varietals. The salient point
however is that many characterful wines at
very attractive prices are being produced
and garnering a Mother Lode of Best Buy
Awards. (Bear in mind the distinctively rich
soils in this area). Danza Roja takes you to
a place where the plains of Spain meet the
south of France. Consider the blend: 45%
Garnacha (Grenache), 30% Mourvedre, 12%
Tempranillo, 7% Syrah and 6% Graciano.
Winemaker notes: “ Potent, complex, and
aromatic, this beautiful Spanish blend is
rich and fresh in the mouth with an intense
dark cherry color and ruby lining. This wine
bursts with aromas of ripe black cherries,
blackberries, currant, nutmeg, vanilla bean,
black licorice and espresso with hints of
cedar and clove.” Pour the wine and bring on
the paella!
SEGHESIO family:
ZINFANDEL AND BEYOND!
The Seghesio
Story begins in 1886 when Edoardo Seghesio
departed his family’s vineyards in Piedmonte,
Italy for a new life in America. Like so
many immigrants, he was drawn to Northern
Sonoma County and the Italian Swiss Colony,
to follow his passion for winemaking. These
days it seems that most articles about
California zinfandel rightfully pay tribute
to Ted Seghesio. (See what we mean!) Here’s
an Italian colony of other varietals made by
Ted which you must try!
SEGHESIO 2007 “KEYHOLE RANCH” RUSSIAN RIVER
VALLEY ARNEIS $14.99 [#258980]
Arneis is a rare grape. It originates from
the hills of Roero, northwest of Alba in the
Piedmonte region of Italy from which Edoardo
Seghesio emigrated in 1886. First noted in
Italian records as far back as 1478, Arneis’
production grew as it was often planted
among rows of Nebbiolo to lure hungry birds
away from the more prized red grapes.
Although considered difficult to cultivate,
(the English translation for Arneis is
“little rascal”) the Keyhole Ranch in the
Russian River Valley is the perfect home for
this varietal. These 8 acres, where cool but
dry conditions prevail, provide a great
opportunity to grow Arneis. Warm-to-hot days
with cool, fog-influenced nights help this
variety retain acidity and delicate fruit
aromas and flavors.Pears, melons and almonds
on the palate supplement an anise and
mineral nose. The process of leaving the
wine on its lees - sur lie - until
bottling helps add complexity and texture to
this wine.
SEGHESIO 2006 SONOMA COUNTY BARBERA $24.99
[#259110]
In 1978, the family identified ancient
Barbera vines on the northern tip of the
Chianti Station vineyard. Five acres were
replanted at the Home Ranch using budwood
from vines that are almost one hundred years
old. Barbera had been grown by the older
generation at the turn of the century.
Today’s production is a natural extension of
the traditional Italian heritage program.
Barbera’s naturally high acidity is well
suited to the warmer Alexander Valley. A
huge staff favorite, this bottling is
characterized by a deep dark red color and,
well, beautiful legs. After the wine opens
up a bit, flavors of raspberry and
blackberry dominate. Juicy and plain
delicious, it’s a great Italian food wine
but would also pair wonderfully with beef,
lamb and game.
SEGHESIO 2005 “OMAGGIO” SONOMA VALLEY RED
$44.99 [#259220]
This rare wine was initially released in
celebration of the 2005 Centennial harvest.
An all-estate wine, the foundation for
Omaggio is Seghesio’s best vineyard block of
Cabernet Sauvignon, blended with Sangiovese
grown on the steep terraces of Rattlesnake
Hill. Here, the shallow volcanic soils
challenge the vines to produce naturally
lower yields. Extensive thinning is
performed to ensure even ripening and in
some vintages this procedure may be
performed as often as three times. The
20-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard
contributes distinctive black currant cassis
flavors while providing richness and
Sangiovese’s black cherry/violet essence and
acidity add structure and complexity to this
wine. With it’s long, silky tannins derived
from optimally ripened fruit, Omaggio will
drink well for years to come.
BIALE 2006 “BLACK CHICKEN” NAPA VALLEY
ZINFANDEL $44.95 [#205210]
The Biale family, immigrants from Northern
Italy, began growing grapes in Napa in the
1930’s - Zinfandel only. All poultry quips
aside, this bottling’s moniker originates
from the waning years of Prohibition, when
local residents would visit and ask for a
“black chicken.” This was the code word for
a jug of Zinfandel. Well, discretion is not
necessary today. Come in and ask for Black
Chicken as boldly as you like. We won’t
mind! Frankly, this is an epic, Homeric
Zinfandel. Big, BUT NOT OVER-THE-TOP. To us
(with all due respect) this an essential
coda because some Zins are just plain muddy
and pass themselves off as complex. This one
simply delivers from start to finish. Only
experienced Zin producers know its secrets.
BIALE 2007 “POLLO BIANCO” YOUNTVILLE
SAUVIGNON BLANC $29.95 [#205440]
The Biale team here proves they can apply
their deft touch to other varietals. The
fruit source, Mike and Cathy Giovannoni’s
vineyard in Yountville, is a prime site for
Sauvignon Blanc and it is planted to a
clonal selection of Sauvignon Blanc called
Musque, a clone that emphasizes stone fruit
character and tones down some of the
“grassiness” of a typical Sauvignon Blanc.
Using cold fermentation and eschewing oak,
this wine is crisp, fresh, and zesty with
juicy nectarine, white plum, and grapefruit
tones. Versatile, appetizing, refreshing,
and just plain delicious, Pollo Bianco is a
go-to white wine to chill down and serve
with olives, goat cheese, grilled summer
veggies, gazpacho, fish tacos, barbecued
oysters, salads, roasted eggplant, peppers,
corn chowder, or just about anything from a
picnic basket.
WALTER HANSEL
WINERY - LOW PROFILE, HIGH QUALITY
For a winery
founded only in 1996 (situated down the road
from Dehlinger and Kistler), this estate is
on fire, producing Burgundian-styled
offerings that are the products of , among
other things, natural yeast fermentations
and gentle handling in the cellars. If
readers have not yet tasted the wines of
Walter Hansel, you’re missing out. ROBERT
PARKER puts it well: “One of northern
California’s “good guys” is undeniably
Stephen Hansel, who fashions top-quality
Burgundian-styled Chardonnays and Pinot
Noirs. Tom Rochioli first brought these
wines to my attention, and Hansel is now one
of my reference point visits in the North
Coast. Known locally as a major car dealer,
Hansel founded the winery in 1978 and now
owns over 80 acres under vine. These are all
noteworthy cuvees that remain somewhat under
the radar. Moreover, prices remain
unbelievably fair for wines of such
quality.”
WALTER HANSEL 2007 RUSSIAN RIVER SAUVIGNON
BLANC $14.95 [#228410]
Here’s the perfect white to ease into your
summer easy chair! The grapes come from a
source less then a mile from the Hansel
vineyard in the Russian River Valley. 100%
stainless steel, it has clean aromas of
mineral and hints of lime. On the palate,
elegant fruit-forward flavors of fresh
pineapple, Braeburn apple and Meyer lemon
zest are complimented by subtle hints of
lychee. Excellent balance with a bright,
clean finish that lingers. This is exactly
what the doctor ordered for thirsty
California Sauvignon Blanc lovers.
WALTER HANSEL 2006 RUSSIAN RIVER ESTATE
CHARDONNAY $29.95 [#228380] ROBERT PARKER – 92
POINTS: The 2006 Chardonnay
Walter Hansel Vineyard is a fleshier, more
opulent, tropical fruit-scented wine than
any of the 2005s. It offers more up-front
fruit and seems to be a quicker-term drinker
than any of the Chardonnays from the
preceding vintage. It is a fleshy,
fruit-dominated beauty.
WALTER HANSEL 2006 RUSSIAN RIVER ESTATE
PINOT NOIR $29.95 [#228370] ROBERT PARKER 90-92
POINTS: “The 2006 Pinot Noir
Russian River has pomegranate-like notes and
a sweet nose of berry fruit intermixed with
some dried herbs, earth, cola, and spice.
The wine has copious up-front fruit, and
seems to be a candidate for drinking over
the next 4-5 years.”
RED CAR 2006 “AMOUR FOU” SONOMA COAST PINOT
NOIR $54.95 [#253610]
We are loving the wines from Red Car Wine
Company and love bringing them to you! In
their search for cooler vineyard sites,
Amour Fou is now 100% Sonoma Coast. The
rather sexy 1940s romance label is a
captivating harbinger of what’s to come when
you uncork the bottle. A blend of
vineyards from La Boheme (60%), Zio Tony
(24%), and Bartolomei (16%), the Amour Fou
is sinfully good. It seduces the palate with
decadent notes of framboise, fig, and crème
de cassis. Aromas of truffle, cherry
blossom, vanilla wafer and a hint of cedar
arouse the nose. Superb concentration and
elegant balance offer a sumptuous mouthful.
Refined and graceful, this pinot noir drinks
exceptionally well with food, or whenever
you’re in the mood.
SAXON – BROWN 2006 “CRICKET CREEK”ALEXANDER
VALLEY SEMILLON $19.95 [#257870]
Last month we wrote about the “Best Kept
Secret” of Sonoma which is Saxon-Brown and
shamelessly touted their amazing Zinfandels.
Do you love white wine and want to branch
out a bit? Harvest some new and exciting
flavors? Here ‘tis! As you may know, this
varietal’s fame rests both on it’s blending
compatibility with Sauvignon Blanc and as
the catalyst for the great dessert wines of
Sauternes. Cricket Creek was planted about
25 years ago at the north east end of the
Alexander Valley; it is dry farmed and has a
yield of less than two tons per acre.
Sitting on a bench that was once the Russian
River – the soils are somewhat gravelly and
well drained, helping to concentrate the
fruit. Lively and refreshing with good food
affinity, this Semillon fits the bill and
then some. After fermentation, the wine was
kept on the yeast for a total of five months
to complement the vibrant varietal flavors
with a elegant, soft richness. In
addition to vibrant white peach, citrus
blossom and fig flavors, the wine offers a
rich, slightly yeasty mouthfeel and a
lingering creamy finish. NO OAK. Only 324
cases produced.
LUCIA 2007 “LUCY” SANTA LUCIA HIGHLANDS ROSE
OF PINOT NOIR $14.95 [#238740]
Gary Pisoni, one of the lords of California
Pinot Noir, has brought us this terrific
little flower of a rose just in time for
summer! Lucy has aromatics that make your
mouth water with a fireworks display of wild
strawberries, watermelon, pomegranate, and
crushed rose petals. Her delicate flavors
dance across the palate, and its bright
acidity proves very refreshing. Ah…..the
babes of summer!
Features from May
MARK
WEST 2006 CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR $9.99
[#241150]
Nothing new here – we just wanted to refresh
you. That’s because the Mark West Pinot
revolution has been a rather quiet one – no
gorilla tactics, no mudslinging, the rebels
aren’t sneak attacking from the hills. In
fact, we know their exact location – Graton,
California. Lead by General Derek Benham
(founder of Blackstone Winery) and first
lieutenant/winemaker Alex Cose (former
assistant at Joseph Phelps and Peter
Michael), the goal is to bring the most
elusive of grapes — Pinot — to the people,
for an attractive price. Sourced mostly from
Central Coast vineyards, this is pretty nice
wine. The fact is, Pinot lovers are looking
for haunting aroma, velvety mouthfeel, and
delicate, “pretty” fruit. Indeed, here you
will again find enticing aromas of cherry,
strawberry, and plum followed by a fairly
weighty palate of brown sugar, spice, and
rhubarb. There’s also a touch of cedar and
oak. Here’s the perfect red for any large
breakaways you may be planning!
LULI 2007 santa lucia highlands CHARDONNAY
$18.95 [#238870]
It’s a real hoot finding delicious,
modestly-priced wines to please our
customers! ‘Tis the season for white wine,
more or less, and we guarantee that Luli
will become a household word once you sample
it and grace your friends with a
recommendation. Birthed by a collaboration
between the Pisoni family (of Pisoni fame)
and Master Sommelier Sara Floyd, this
Chardonnay could hardly miss. To gain the
most complexity, the fruit was sourced from
the Santa Lucia Highlands in Monterey County
and the Yorkville Highlands in the county of
Mendocino. The individuality continues with
the vinification. The wine was fermented in
60% stainless, 40% neutral oak, and malo-lactic
fermentation was prevented. The bright and
fresh aromatics leap from the glass with
white flowers, minerality, and a tease of
meyer lemon. It’s clean, refreshing, and
coats the palate nicely. 3200 cases
produced. Yours truly, Luli.
WALKER STATION VINEYARDS 2005 RUSSIAN RIVER
ESTATE CHARDONNAY $70.00 [#275360]
No, he does not go on vacation. As a
winemaker Paul Hobbs has been called a
trailblazer, trendsetter, pioneer and
prospector. (He hit a rich vein when he
hooked up with grower Harry Walker). We get
mail about his eponymous and quite limited
Chardonnays. If you’ve been dismayed before
in questing, for example, Cuvee Augustina,
this one’s for you! Now, he does make a
Walker Station-designated Chard under his
label, and it routinely gets scores in the
mid-nineties from Parker and Spectator. So
we were not surprised by the heights of
flavor this bottling attains. It has
remarkable elegance and balance, with aromas
of lemon, citrus, and honeysuckle blossom.
The mouth is rich and full with the nuance
of minerals that seem to roll over your
tongue. It shows much of it’s charming
personality now, but will unfold over the
coming years!
WALKER STATION 2006 RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
PINOT NOIR $74.95 [#280100]
Planted by Harry in 2001, the Leslie Estate
Vineyard is quickly establishing itself as a
premier site for Pinot Noir. This is only
Walker Station’s second Pinot vintage, but
the high quality of the wine speaks for
itself. The elegant Walker Station 2006
Pinot Noir, exhibits wild berry and spices,
with notes of cedar and clove, finishing
with a smooth, velvety texture. We would
call this a classic California Pinot,
absolutely delicious and worth every penny.
Already prized by our staff, it is limited
and sure to sell out quickly!
SPENCE 2004 HOWELL Mountain CABERNET
SAUVIGNON $64.95 [#276770]
After just two vintages producing a Howell
Mountain Cabernet, the folks at this tiny
property have produced the best and most
terroir-specific Cab in its short history.
Winemaker Marco DiGiulio (Lokoya, Girard)
has blended the grapes from the Spence’s
miniscule (one acre) vineyard and added some
fruit from Dennis John’s White Cottage
Vineyard next door. He managed to express
the specific aromas and flavors that are
inherent to Howell Mountain. Dear reader,
this is one sumptuous Cabernet, but the word
“finesse” is equally appropriate. WINE SPECTATOR’S
92- POINT notes:
“Pure, rich Cabernet flavors are tight and
focused, with intense yet well proportioned
currant, anise, sage, mineral and dried
berry fruit. The tannins are firm yet ripe
and integrated, leading to a long,
persistent finish. Drink now through 2013.”
Extremely rare – 300 cases.
LYNDENHURST: A CHIP OFF THE OLD
SPOTTSWOODE BLOCK
LYNDENHURST 2005 NAPA VALLEY CABERNET
SAUVIGNON $59.95 [#238800]
Following on the heels of the excellent 2004
(which captured the Number Four placing in
our 2007 Top Ten) is this lovely 2005. The
word Lyndenhurst represents one of the
earlier names given to the Spottswoode
property; an image of the historic
pre-prohibition winery graces the label.
After a rigorous selection process for the
organically farmed Spottswoode Estate
Cabernet, Lyndenhurst is produced from
selected blocks of young vines that possess
exceptional flavor, forward fruit and
approachable tannins. The selected lots give
Lyndenhurst a vivacious quality - fresh,
exciting and ambitious - while retaining the
same rich flavors for which their flagship
Cabernet is known. This 2005 begins with
aromas of dark roasted coffee evolving into
malted cocoa, ripe plums and
chocolate-covered cherries. Supple and
approachable, bright and rich, the fresh and
bright mid-palate leads into flavors of
lavender, pine and toasty oak. 100% Cabernet
Sauvignon!
PINE RIDGE 2007 CLARKSBURG CHENIN
BLANC/VIOGNIER $10.99 [#251310]
A crisp and refreshing springtime white from
Stags Leap homers Pine Ridge winery? You bet
your barrel they make one! The fruity floral
signature of Chenin Blanc and the fragrant
bouquet of Viognier make up this unique
bottling. Pine Ridge was the first
California winery to develop this original
blend over twenty years ago. The
Chenin Blanc grapes were sourced from the
moderate river delta region of Clarksburg.
Bear Creek Winery in Lodi provided the
Viognier grapes this year. Floral and sweet
on the nose, the wine exhibits fragrant
aromas of pear, lychee and melon, with a
delicate touch of grapefruit, lime and mixed
citrus. Sweet, bright flavors of lively
citrus and pear are offered up along with a
supple texture. The slightly off-dry finish
is clean and crisp, marked with notes of red
grapefruit. Quintessential quaffer!
AUGUST BRIGGS 2006 “LEVERONI” CARNEROS
CHARDONNAY $29.95 [#201050]
August Briggs Winery is the culmination of
owner Joe Briggs’ dream, which began in 1995
with the production of the first wines under
his own label. Joe had already been a
winemaker for over ten years, graduating
from Fresno State in the early 80s, and
working as somewhat of a Pinot Noir
specialist first at Alpine Vineyards in
Oregon and then at La Crema in Sonoma
County. This is the 12th vintage from this
highly acclaimed family-owned vineyard on
the Sonoma side of Carneros, and it is
delicious. Very little oak influence is
evident, making way for some pretty fruit to
shine through. The wine has a bright, golden
straw color. Tropical fruit aromas mingle
with melon and vanilla. It has a medium
weight on the palate with the tropical
flavors of passion fruit and pineapple,
citrus flavors of mandarin orange and lime,
and soft oak. This is a great food wine
which would work well with almost any
moderately seasoned fish or chicken dish.
PINE RIDGE 2005 “DIJON CLONES” CARNEROS
CHARDONNAY $22.99 [#215490]
It may be a cliché but it’s true: relentless
dedication to quality pays off. This has
been Pine Ridge Winery’s philosophy from the
beginning nearly thirty years ago. Winemaker
Stacy Clark has been on board since 1988,
making beautifully structured, balanced and
characterful wines using estate fruit from
Rutherford, Oakville, Stags Leap and
Carneros. (Another example of folks who are
well acquainted with their grapes). This
unusually complex and balanced wine is
produced from grapes grown in the sloping
Carneros region. Pine Ridge was one of the
first wineries to pair French Dijon clones
with Carneros soils. The result is a
California Chardonnay that, stylistically,
bears no small resemblance to a well-done
Meursault from the Burgundy region of
France. The wine opens with fresh tropical
fruit aromas of peach and pineapple conveyed
to the palate along with hints of lime.
Toasty nuances of hazelnut, toffee and
sundry brown spices provide additional
complexity to this stylistically unique
Chardonnay that is the perfect marriage.
TURNBULL 2007 OAKVILLE SAUVIGNON BLANC
$14.99 [#270300]
Mirroring Pine Ridge’s identification with
Stags Leap is Turnbull Cellars with the
Oakville appellation. Although justifiably
associated with exacting reds from this
area, winemaker Jon Engelskirger makes an
excellent Viognier and this delightful
Sauvignon Blanc. As Jon says, “When lively
Sauvignon Musque meets fruit-forward
Viognier the result is wine with a sunny
disposition that both refreshes and
satisfies. Add in a bit of Semillon and the
creaminess derived from sur-lies aging in
both tank and barrel and the result is a
wine that delivers up a sunny core of citrus
and tropical fruits, while pleasing the
palate with mouthwatering texture. A glass
of this will leave you with a sunny
disposition.
SOTER 2006 “NORTH VALLEY” WILLAMETTE VALLEY
PINOT NOIR $32.95 [#262570]
Tony Soter has dedicated much of his career
to producing versatile and seductively
aromatic Pinot Noir by blending fruit from
numerous sites. His Etude Carneros Pinot
Noir has become a staple and with the North
Valley bottling, he intends to transcend
that achievement in Oregon. His strategy of
blending from multiple sources helps ensure
consistency and balance, and can often
outshine many single-vineyard wines. The
wine is made using similar methods as the
estate wines, but the North Valley bottling
sees less new oak than the flagship wines.
It is made in a more accessible style with a
markedly silky and supple mouthfeel. The
wine features notes of blackberries,
cranberries, cocoa, minerals and sweet cream
that are long and lush.
SAXON BROWN 2004 “CASA SANTINAMARIA” SONOMA
VALLEY ZINFANDEL $29.95 [#256410] “Winemaking must consume you, or your
wines may not be worth consuming.”
- Jeff Gaffner, Winemaker
Saxon Brown is one of Sonoma County’s
best-kept secrets, which doesn’t compute
given both the wine quality and the
ebullient gushing from the press. Consider
these comments from the Wall Street Journal
after a recent tasting of Saxon Zinfandels:
“What Zin can be as a fine wine.” “Classy
and structured, with plenty of character.
Very fine and very elegant. Oomph and
pepper, minerals and great acids, but light
on its feet. The fruit shows. Really fine
wine. Tastes expensive. Honest wine.
Well-integrated. Not overly anything.
Ageable.” See what we mean? Now, Jeff crafts
two Zinfandel bottlings: one is the 100%
Stonewall Block Parmalee Hill, an elegant
style which we carry of course. This Casa
Santinamaria is from a vineyard planted to a
classic field blend of Zinfandel, Petite
Sirah, Carignane, Alicante Bouschet and
Mataro; all of which play a complementary
role in the complexity and structure of the
final wine. (Field blending is a traditional
practice brought to California by Italian
immigrants). Due to the age of the vines and
the fact that are dry farmed, the yields are
well below average for Zinfandel, the
clusters are very small and the fruit is
very concentrated. The Santinamaria shows an
intense raspberry and dried cranberry
signature that seems to run from year to
year, along with black cherry/berry, dark
chocolate and sweet elegant oak tones. On
the mouth this wine has great structure and
a mélange of dried raspberry, mocha and
chocolate dust reminiscent of a decadent
raspberry chocolate torte. Very rich
finishes long.
BOUCHAINE 2005 CARNEROS CHARDONNAY $19.95
[#206420]
We are big fans of Bouchaine. A winery with
significant historical roots, Bouchaine
inhabits the oldest continually operated
winery in Carneros with vines first planted
in the mid-1800s. Completely renovated and
updated, new ownership hired Michael
Richmond as winemaker and general manager.
With over 30 years experience in Carneros,
(he founded Acacia), he set new standards in
both the vineyard and winemaking. The modest
price belies these efforts. Mike said that
he wanted the oak to be “transparent”, with
a “wisp of spice”, and he kept the
malolactic to 50%. It showed very well upon
summer release, and we were shamelessly
effusive in our praise at a recent retasting.
This 2005 defines balance and seamlessness.
The fruit is all estate and the oak was only
30% new, which most definitely begat the
desired result. This beauty is crisp and
multi-tropical, coating the palate with
added hints of peach, citrus, lemon crème,
spice and vanilla. The wine has developed a
subtle and most interesting mineral
component beaming throughout. A great
vintage for Bouchaine!
MINER FAMILY 2006 “SIMPSON VINEYARD”
CALIFORNIA VIOGNIER $16.99 [#276932]
We’re always amazed by Miner’s
across-the-board quality. This is frankly an
exceptional Viognier. Aromatically complex
with citrus and honeysuckle on the nose and
a satiny, fleshy feel on the palate. Vibrant
flavors of tropical fruit and exotic flowers
characterize this ever-so-alluringly white
wine. Balanced by just the right amount of
acidity, pair it with crab cakes, sushi or
even stir-fry and you’ll be a believer.
Features from April
CAPIAUX,
CARGASACCHI, DREW, SIDURI
EXPRESSIVE
PINOTS FROM EXPRESSIVE SITES
At the
risk of writing again about something which
has already been discussed to death, here
goes. The concept of terroir (simply put –
the total natural environment of any
viticultural site) informs and defines the
French Appellation Controlee system. There’s
quite a gap between New and Old World ideas
on this matter. Although the Newbies (us)
have often tended to dismiss the whole idea
as mystical or commercially driven, we have
also notoriously attempted to imitate the
products of the great vineyards without
regard to terroir and in the process
“stamped” out wines which previously were
stylish and distinctive in the truest sense.
And of course we’ve seen a significant
amount of interest and allegiance to the
terroir philosophy here in California over
the last few decades. Gad Zooks! An
interesting, compelling, and debatable issue
it is – giving us something more to talk
about at the Wine Bar. Now, leaping ahead,
we obviously think there is substance to
this terroir talk or we wouldn’t be
highlighting these particular bottlings. The
Pinot Noir grape is arguably the most site
conveying of varietals. And is this not at
least part of the reason why so many North
American winemakers have become enamored
with basically becoming, if you will, agents
of flavor, mediators of taste, conduits of
complexity, for this noble grape? Read any
Pinot producer’s bio: “I don’t know.
Something came over me and I just had to
make the stuff.” Seriously, here are some
stellar Pinot Noirs from stellar sites and
stellar producers.
DREW FAMILY CELLARS:
AN OENOLOGICAL ODYSSEY Jason Drew’s
first vineyard experience was assisting his
uncle as they planted a vineyard in Stag’s
Leap. The blood and sweat (he didn’t cry)
whet his appetite for agriculture so it was
off to UC Santa Cruz to study dirt.
Snapshots from the ensuing years show Jason
at St. Supery, Carmenet, the University of
Adelaide in Australia, Joseph Phelps,
Corison, and Luna. Hooking up with Bryan
Babcock as Assistant Winemaker was critical
for Jason as he explored the intricacies of
both Pinot Noir and the Santa Rita Hills.
The Drew label was born in 2000. A new
milestone for Jason and his wife/partner
Molly is the construction of a winery in
Mendocino County just three miles from the
Pacific. Poised for greatness? We think so.
(P.S. These are all quite limited)
This is a
blend from two vineyards located on opposite
ends of the Santa Rita Hills Appellation
(Rio Vista Vineyard at the East end and
Ashley’s Vineyard on the West end). The wine
reveals aromas of Bing cherries,
boysenberry, and blackberry tea with hints
of watermelon and floral spice notes with a
wonderful integration of oak.