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North American Wine

 
 
 

HUNTINGTON 2005 CALIFORNIA PETITE SIRAH $9.95 [#231270] 
   About Petite Sirah : Developed in the 1870s in France’s Rhone region where it is known as Durif or Petite Syrah, this grape variety is more commonly known by its slightly anglicized synonym, Petite Sirah -- particularly in California. The result of a cross between the noble Syrah and a relatively minor Rhone variety, Peloursin, Durif was developed to resist Powdery Mildew, to which Syrah is susceptible. Although mildew-resistant, the tightly-bunched variety was vulnerable to gray rot in the humid southern Rhone. Fortunately, the grape has adapted well to the drier climates of California, and to those of northeastern Victoria, in Australia. In fact, the grape has succeeded better abroad than in its south of France birthplace, where it is now almost extinct.
   Huntington is lead by founder/winemaker Kerry Damskey (pictured), in truth a California notable. This bottling is charged with the scent of fresh blueberries, black fruit, chocolate, currant, blackberry and black cherry. The palate is rich and full with soft tannins. This is an amazing wine with its subtle layers of fruit and a berry intensity that shows refinement and finesse in every sip. No hyperbole here – this one has garnered quite a devoted following among both customers and staff, and what a price!


REVANA 2005 NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON $125.00 [#254480] 
   Revana’s fith vintage affirms this winery’s commitment to being one of the best Cabernet producers in the valley. After Dr. Revana purchased the property in St. Helena he hired two exemplary Napa personalities, veteran vineyard manager Jim Barbour and winemaker Heidi Peterson Barrett (Paradigm, ex-Dalla Valle, ex-Screaming Eagle).
   Robert Parker noted that this winery seems to be hitting its stride with delicious Cabernet Sauvignon. Every vintage has received critical acclaim and sold out quickly. And the 2005 vintage is arguably their finest yet! It exudes elegance. The aromas are beautifully perfumed and the palate shows layers of flavor, silky texture and explosive yet refined fruit. It is truly an exceptional wine. Heidi’s tasting notes are right on the money, “Dark ruby in color with deep aromas of black cherry, coca powder, toast, and spice. On the palate it is very elegant and silky with bright purity of fruit and medium body. The cherry flavors echo the aromas. Nice mid-palate texture without a trace of raw tannins. Good length at this tasting which will only get better with time in the bottle. Oak is used only as an accent here and adds to the layering of flavor components and complexity. Great potential.”


MERRYVALE 2006 CARNEROS ESTATE SYRAH $49.95 [#241410] 

Hi-Time Exclusive
Only 60 bottles made-- this lot was chosen by winemaker Sean Foster from his favorite barrel!

Merryvale is pure class. Across the board, from the Starmont Series through the single-vineyard bottlings to the prestige cuvees (Portfolio and Silhouette) and the decadent Antigua dessert wine, the wines are expertly crafted and vineyards managed with microscopic scrutiny. This is the first vintage of their estate grown Syrah co-fermented with Viogner. It is extremely limited and tastes fabulous – a classic example of Old World finesse and New World richness, characterized by exceptional poise and balance all the way through. Subtle aromas of raspberry, boysenberry, violets and peppermint are followed by a panoply of bright red fruit flavors including red currant and cherries. There is a slight vanillan quality and the tannins are modest. The long, delightful finish is slightly tinged with trademark Syrah notes of leather and roasted meats. A succinct summation? This is just one fine bottle of red wine!


AMAVI 2005 WALLA WALLA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON $24.95 [#200620] 
Our customers have been seeking more wines from Washington’s Walla Walla Valley; well,well – you’re going to enjoy this one. It’s a real find. Amavi (“loving life”) Cellars is a small, family- owned operation focusing on estate-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.  WINE SPECTATOR called the 2005 a “top-rated” value and awarded it 92 POINTS with the following comments: “Ripe and rich, a full-bodied, generous Cabernet Sauvignon that focuses its dark-toned berry, black olive and pepper flavors beautifully. The tannins are present on the finish but can’t stop the fruit.” We would append that the addition of Syrah adds “bonus” details of spice to the smooth and supple cassis and black cherry fruit. Focused, bright, polished and immediately delicious.


STEVENOT 2005 “DANZA ROJA” SIERRA FOOTHILLS RED $14.95 [#279700] 
We’ve raved about this adventurous Calaveras County winery before, and we’re at it again! Lead by long time winemaker Chuck Hovey, the estate vineyard holds no less than 18 different varietals. The salient point however is that many characterful wines at very attractive prices are being produced and garnering a Mother Lode of Best Buy Awards. (Bear in mind the distinctively rich soils in this area). Danza Roja takes you to a place where the plains of Spain meet the south of France. Consider the blend: 45% Garnacha (Grenache), 30% Mourvedre, 12% Tempranillo, 7% Syrah and 6% Graciano. Winemaker notes: “ Potent, complex, and aromatic, this beautiful Spanish blend is rich and fresh in the mouth with an intense dark cherry color and ruby lining. This wine bursts with aromas of ripe black cherries, blackberries, currant, nutmeg, vanilla bean, black licorice and espresso with hints of cedar and clove.” Pour the wine and bring on the paella!


SEGHESIO family: ZINFANDEL AND BEYOND!

The Seghesio Story begins in 1886 when Edoardo Seghesio departed his family’s vineyards in Piedmonte, Italy for a new life in America. Like so many immigrants, he was drawn to Northern Sonoma County and the Italian Swiss Colony, to follow his passion for winemaking. These days it seems that most articles about California zinfandel rightfully pay tribute to Ted Seghesio. (See what we mean!) Here’s an Italian colony of other varietals made by Ted which you must try!

SEGHESIO 2007 “KEYHOLE RANCH” RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY ARNEIS $14.99 [#258980]  
Arneis is a rare grape. It originates from the hills of Roero, northwest of Alba in the Piedmonte region of Italy from which Edoardo Seghesio emigrated in 1886. First noted in Italian records as far back as 1478, Arneis’ production grew as it was often planted among rows of Nebbiolo to lure hungry birds away from the more prized red grapes. Although considered difficult to cultivate, (the English translation for Arneis is “little rascal”) the Keyhole Ranch in the Russian River Valley is the perfect home for this varietal. These 8 acres, where cool but dry conditions prevail, provide a great opportunity to grow Arneis. Warm-to-hot days with cool, fog-influenced nights help this variety retain acidity and delicate fruit aromas and flavors.Pears, melons and almonds on the palate supplement an anise and mineral nose. The process of leaving the wine on its lees - sur lie - until bottling helps add complexity and texture to this wine.


SEGHESIO 2006 SONOMA COUNTY BARBERA $24.99 [#259110] 
In 1978, the family identified ancient Barbera vines on the northern tip of the Chianti Station vineyard. Five acres were replanted at the Home Ranch using budwood from vines that are almost one hundred years old. Barbera had been grown by the older generation at the turn of the century. Today’s production is a natural extension of the traditional Italian heritage program. Barbera’s naturally high acidity is well suited to the warmer Alexander Valley. A huge staff favorite, this bottling is characterized by a deep dark red color and, well, beautiful legs. After the wine opens up a bit, flavors of raspberry and blackberry dominate. Juicy and plain delicious, it’s a great Italian food wine but would also pair wonderfully with beef, lamb and game.


SEGHESIO 2005 “OMAGGIO” SONOMA VALLEY RED $44.99 [#259220]  
This rare wine was initially released in celebration of the 2005 Centennial harvest. An all-estate wine, the foundation for Omaggio is Seghesio’s best vineyard block of Cabernet Sauvignon, blended with Sangiovese grown on the steep terraces of Rattlesnake Hill. Here, the shallow volcanic soils challenge the vines to produce naturally lower yields. Extensive thinning is performed to ensure even ripening and in some vintages this procedure may be performed as often as three times. The 20-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard contributes distinctive black currant cassis flavors while providing richness and Sangiovese’s black cherry/violet essence and acidity add structure and complexity to this wine. With it’s long, silky tannins derived from optimally ripened fruit, Omaggio will drink well for years to come.


BIALE 2006 “BLACK CHICKEN” NAPA VALLEY ZINFANDEL $44.95 [#205210] 
The Biale family, immigrants from Northern Italy, began growing grapes in Napa in the 1930’s - Zinfandel only. All poultry quips aside, this bottling’s moniker originates from the waning years of Prohibition, when local residents would visit and ask for a “black chicken.” This was the code word for a jug of Zinfandel. Well, discretion is not necessary today. Come in and ask for Black Chicken as boldly as you like. We won’t mind! Frankly, this is an epic, Homeric Zinfandel. Big, BUT NOT OVER-THE-TOP. To us (with all due respect) this an essential coda because some Zins are just plain muddy and pass themselves off as complex. This one simply delivers from start to finish. Only experienced Zin producers know its secrets.


BIALE 2007 “POLLO BIANCO” YOUNTVILLE SAUVIGNON BLANC $29.95 [#205440] 
The Biale team here proves they can apply their deft touch to other varietals. The fruit source, Mike and Cathy Giovannoni’s vineyard in Yountville, is a prime site for Sauvignon Blanc and it is planted to a clonal selection of Sauvignon Blanc called Musque, a clone that emphasizes stone fruit character and tones down some of the “grassiness” of a typical Sauvignon Blanc. Using cold fermentation and eschewing oak, this wine is crisp, fresh, and zesty with juicy nectarine, white plum, and grapefruit tones. Versatile, appetizing, refreshing, and just plain delicious, Pollo Bianco is a go-to white wine to chill down and serve with olives, goat cheese, grilled summer veggies, gazpacho, fish tacos, barbecued oysters, salads, roasted eggplant, peppers, corn chowder, or just about anything from a picnic basket.


WALTER HANSEL WINERY - LOW PROFILE, HIGH QUALITY

For a winery founded only in 1996 (situated down the road from Dehlinger and Kistler), this estate is on fire, producing Burgundian-styled offerings that are the products of , among other things, natural yeast fermentations and gentle handling in the cellars. If readers have not yet tasted the wines of Walter Hansel, you’re missing out. ROBERT PARKER puts it well: “One of northern California’s “good guys” is undeniably Stephen Hansel, who fashions top-quality Burgundian-styled Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. Tom Rochioli first brought these wines to my attention, and Hansel is now one of my reference point visits in the North Coast. Known locally as a major car dealer, Hansel founded the winery in 1978 and now owns over 80 acres under vine. These are all noteworthy cuvees that remain somewhat under the radar. Moreover, prices remain unbelievably fair for wines of such quality.”

WALTER HANSEL 2007 RUSSIAN RIVER SAUVIGNON BLANC $14.95 [#228410]  
Here’s the perfect white to ease into your summer easy chair! The grapes come from a source less then a mile from the Hansel vineyard in the Russian River Valley. 100% stainless steel, it has clean aromas of mineral and hints of lime. On the palate, elegant fruit-forward flavors of fresh pineapple, Braeburn apple and Meyer lemon zest are complimented by subtle hints of lychee. Excellent balance with a bright, clean finish that lingers. This is exactly what the doctor ordered for thirsty California Sauvignon Blanc lovers.


WALTER HANSEL 2006 RUSSIAN RIVER ESTATE CHARDONNAY $29.95 [#228380] 
ROBERT PARKER – 92 POINTS: The 2006 Chardonnay Walter Hansel Vineyard is a fleshier, more opulent, tropical fruit-scented wine than any of the 2005s. It offers more up-front fruit and seems to be a quicker-term drinker than any of the Chardonnays from the preceding vintage. It is a fleshy, fruit-dominated beauty.


WALTER HANSEL 2006 RUSSIAN RIVER ESTATE PINOT NOIR $29.95 [#228370]  
ROBERT PARKER 90-92 POINTS: “The 2006 Pinot Noir Russian River has pomegranate-like notes and a sweet nose of berry fruit intermixed with some dried herbs, earth, cola, and spice. The wine has copious up-front fruit, and seems to be a candidate for drinking over the next 4-5 years.”


RED CAR 2006 “AMOUR FOU” SONOMA COAST PINOT NOIR $54.95 [#253610] 
We are loving the wines from Red Car Wine Company and love bringing them to you! In their search for cooler vineyard sites, Amour Fou is now 100% Sonoma Coast. The rather sexy 1940s romance label is a captivating harbinger of what’s to come when you uncork the bottle.  A blend of vineyards from La Boheme (60%), Zio Tony (24%), and Bartolomei (16%), the Amour Fou is sinfully good. It seduces the palate with decadent notes of framboise, fig, and crème de cassis. Aromas of truffle, cherry blossom, vanilla wafer and a hint of cedar arouse the nose. Superb concentration and elegant balance offer a sumptuous mouthful. Refined and graceful, this pinot noir drinks exceptionally well with food, or whenever you’re in the mood.


SAXON – BROWN 2006 “CRICKET CREEK”ALEXANDER VALLEY SEMILLON $19.95 [#257870]
Last month we wrote about the “Best Kept Secret” of Sonoma which is Saxon-Brown and shamelessly touted their amazing Zinfandels. Do you love white wine and want to branch out a bit? Harvest some new and exciting flavors? Here ‘tis! As you may know, this varietal’s fame rests both on it’s blending compatibility with Sauvignon Blanc and as the catalyst for the great dessert wines of Sauternes. Cricket Creek was planted about 25 years ago at the north east end of the Alexander Valley; it is dry farmed and has a yield of less than two tons per acre. Sitting on a bench that was once the Russian River – the soils are somewhat gravelly and well drained, helping to concentrate the fruit. Lively and refreshing with good food affinity, this Semillon fits the bill and then some. After fermentation, the wine was kept on the yeast for a total of five months to complement the vibrant varietal flavors with a elegant, soft richness.  In addition to vibrant white peach, citrus blossom and fig flavors, the wine offers a rich, slightly yeasty mouthfeel and a lingering creamy finish. NO OAK. Only 324 cases produced.


LUCIA 2007 “LUCY” SANTA LUCIA HIGHLANDS ROSE OF PINOT NOIR $14.95 [#238740] 
Gary Pisoni, one of the lords of California Pinot Noir, has brought us this terrific little flower of a rose just in time for summer! Lucy has aromatics that make your mouth water with a fireworks display of wild strawberries, watermelon, pomegranate, and crushed rose petals. Her delicate flavors dance across the palate, and its bright acidity proves very refreshing. Ah…..the babes of summer!

Features from May

MARK WEST 2006 CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR $9.99 [#241150]  
Nothing new here – we just wanted to refresh you. That’s because the Mark West Pinot revolution has been a rather quiet one – no gorilla tactics, no mudslinging, the rebels aren’t sneak attacking from the hills. In fact, we know their exact location – Graton, California. Lead by General Derek Benham (founder of Blackstone Winery) and first lieutenant/winemaker Alex Cose (former assistant at Joseph Phelps and Peter Michael), the goal is to bring the most elusive of grapes — Pinot — to the people, for an attractive price. Sourced mostly from Central Coast vineyards, this is pretty nice wine. The fact is, Pinot lovers are looking for haunting aroma, velvety mouthfeel, and delicate, “pretty” fruit. Indeed, here you will again find enticing aromas of cherry, strawberry, and plum followed by a fairly weighty palate of brown sugar, spice, and rhubarb. There’s also a touch of cedar and oak. Here’s the perfect red for any large breakaways you may be planning!


LULI 2007 santa lucia highlands CHARDONNAY $18.95 [#238870]  
It’s a real hoot finding delicious, modestly-priced wines to please our customers! ‘Tis the season for white wine, more or less, and we guarantee that Luli will become a household word once you sample it and grace your friends with a recommendation. Birthed by a collaboration between the Pisoni family (of Pisoni fame) and Master Sommelier Sara Floyd, this Chardonnay could hardly miss. To gain the most complexity, the fruit was sourced from the Santa Lucia Highlands in Monterey County and the Yorkville Highlands in the county of Mendocino. The individuality continues with the vinification. The wine was fermented in 60% stainless, 40% neutral oak, and malo-lactic fermentation was prevented. The bright and fresh aromatics leap from the glass with white flowers, minerality, and a tease of meyer lemon. It’s clean, refreshing, and coats the palate nicely. 3200 cases produced. Yours truly, Luli.


WALKER STATION VINEYARDS 2005 RUSSIAN RIVER ESTATE CHARDONNAY $70.00 [#275360]  
No, he does not go on vacation. As a winemaker Paul Hobbs has been called a trailblazer, trendsetter, pioneer and prospector. (He hit a rich vein when he hooked up with grower Harry Walker). We get mail about his eponymous and quite limited Chardonnays. If you’ve been dismayed before in questing, for example, Cuvee Augustina, this one’s for you! Now, he does make a Walker Station-designated Chard under his label, and it routinely gets scores in the mid-nineties from Parker and Spectator. So we were not surprised by the heights of flavor this bottling attains. It has remarkable elegance and balance, with aromas of lemon, citrus, and honeysuckle blossom. The mouth is rich and full with the nuance of minerals that seem to roll over your tongue. It shows much of it’s charming personality now, but will unfold over the coming years!


WALKER STATION 2006 RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY PINOT NOIR $74.95 [#280100]  
Planted by Harry in 2001, the Leslie Estate Vineyard is quickly establishing itself as a premier site for Pinot Noir. This is only Walker Station’s second Pinot vintage, but the high quality of the wine speaks for itself. The elegant Walker Station 2006 Pinot Noir, exhibits wild berry and spices, with notes of cedar and clove, finishing with a smooth, velvety texture. We would call this a classic California Pinot, absolutely delicious and worth every penny. Already prized by our staff, it is limited and sure to sell out quickly!


SPENCE 2004 HOWELL Mountain CABERNET SAUVIGNON $64.95 [#276770]   
After just two vintages producing a Howell Mountain Cabernet, the folks at this tiny property have produced the best and most terroir-specific Cab in its short history. Winemaker Marco DiGiulio (Lokoya, Girard) has blended the grapes from the Spence’s miniscule (one acre) vineyard and added some fruit from Dennis John’s White Cottage Vineyard next door. He managed to express the specific aromas and flavors that are inherent to Howell Mountain. Dear reader, this is one sumptuous Cabernet, but the word “finesse” is equally appropriate.
WINE SPECTATOR’S 92- POINT notes:
“Pure, rich Cabernet flavors are tight and focused, with intense yet well proportioned currant, anise, sage, mineral and dried berry fruit. The tannins are firm yet ripe and integrated, leading to a long, persistent finish. Drink now through 2013.” Extremely rare – 300 cases.


LYNDENHURST: A CHIP OFF THE OLD SPOTTSWOODE BLOCK

LYNDENHURST 2005 NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON $59.95 [#238800]  
Following on the heels of the excellent 2004 (which captured the Number Four placing in our 2007 Top Ten) is this lovely 2005. The word Lyndenhurst represents one of the earlier names given to the Spottswoode property; an image of the historic pre-prohibition winery graces the label. After a rigorous selection process for the organically farmed Spottswoode Estate Cabernet, Lyndenhurst is produced from selected blocks of young vines that possess exceptional flavor, forward fruit and approachable tannins. The selected lots give Lyndenhurst a vivacious quality - fresh, exciting and ambitious - while retaining the same rich flavors for which their flagship Cabernet is known. This 2005 begins with aromas of dark roasted coffee evolving into malted cocoa, ripe plums and chocolate-covered cherries. Supple and approachable, bright and rich, the fresh and bright mid-palate leads into flavors of lavender, pine and toasty oak. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon!


PINE RIDGE 2007 CLARKSBURG CHENIN BLANC/VIOGNIER $10.99 [#251310]  
A crisp and refreshing springtime white from Stags Leap homers Pine Ridge winery? You bet your barrel they make one! The fruity floral signature of Chenin Blanc and the fragrant bouquet of Viognier make up this unique bottling. Pine Ridge was the first California winery to develop this original blend over twenty years ago.  The Chenin Blanc grapes were sourced from the moderate river delta region of Clarksburg. Bear Creek Winery in Lodi provided the Viognier grapes this year. Floral and sweet on the nose, the wine exhibits fragrant aromas of pear, lychee and melon, with a delicate touch of grapefruit, lime and mixed citrus. Sweet, bright flavors of lively citrus and pear are offered up along with a supple texture. The slightly off-dry finish is clean and crisp, marked with notes of red grapefruit. Quintessential quaffer!


AUGUST BRIGGS 2006 “LEVERONI” CARNEROS CHARDONNAY $29.95 [#201050]  
August Briggs Winery is the culmination of owner Joe Briggs’ dream, which began in 1995 with the production of the first wines under his own label. Joe had already been a winemaker for over ten years, graduating from Fresno State in the early 80s, and working as somewhat of a Pinot Noir specialist first at Alpine Vineyards in Oregon and then at La Crema in Sonoma County. This is the 12th vintage from this highly acclaimed family-owned vineyard on the Sonoma side of Carneros, and it is delicious. Very little oak influence is evident, making way for some pretty fruit to shine through. The wine has a bright, golden straw color. Tropical fruit aromas mingle with melon and vanilla. It has a medium weight on the palate with the tropical flavors of passion fruit and pineapple, citrus flavors of mandarin orange and lime, and soft oak. This is a great food wine which would work well with almost any moderately seasoned fish or chicken dish.


PINE RIDGE 2005 “DIJON CLONES” CARNEROS CHARDONNAY $22.99 [#215490]  
It may be a cliché but it’s true: relentless dedication to quality pays off. This has been Pine Ridge Winery’s philosophy from the beginning nearly thirty years ago. Winemaker Stacy Clark has been on board since 1988, making beautifully structured, balanced and characterful wines using estate fruit from Rutherford, Oakville, Stags Leap and Carneros. (Another example of folks who are well acquainted with their grapes). This unusually complex and balanced wine is produced from grapes grown in the sloping Carneros region. Pine Ridge was one of the first wineries to pair French Dijon clones with Carneros soils. The result is a California Chardonnay that, stylistically, bears no small resemblance to a well-done Meursault from the Burgundy region of France. The wine opens with fresh tropical fruit aromas of peach and pineapple conveyed to the palate along with hints of lime. Toasty nuances of hazelnut, toffee and sundry brown spices provide additional complexity to this stylistically unique Chardonnay that is the perfect marriage.


TURNBULL 2007 OAKVILLE SAUVIGNON BLANC $14.99 [#270300]  
Mirroring Pine Ridge’s identification with Stags Leap is Turnbull Cellars with the Oakville appellation. Although justifiably associated with exacting reds from this area, winemaker Jon Engelskirger makes an excellent Viognier and this delightful Sauvignon Blanc. As Jon says, “When lively Sauvignon Musque meets fruit-forward Viognier the result is wine with a sunny disposition that both refreshes and satisfies. Add in a bit of Semillon and the creaminess derived from sur-lies aging in both tank and barrel and the result is a wine that delivers up a sunny core of citrus and tropical fruits, while pleasing the palate with mouthwatering texture. A glass of this will leave you with a sunny disposition.


SOTER 2006 “NORTH VALLEY” WILLAMETTE VALLEY PINOT NOIR $32.95 [#262570]  
Tony Soter has dedicated much of his career to producing versatile and seductively aromatic Pinot Noir by blending fruit from numerous sites. His Etude Carneros Pinot Noir has become a staple and with the North Valley bottling, he intends to transcend that achievement in Oregon. His strategy of blending from multiple sources helps ensure consistency and balance, and can often outshine many single-vineyard wines. The wine is made using similar methods as the estate wines, but the North Valley bottling sees less new oak than the flagship wines. It is made in a more accessible style with a markedly silky and supple mouthfeel. The wine features notes of blackberries, cranberries, cocoa, minerals and sweet cream that are long and lush.


SAXON BROWN 2004 “CASA SANTINAMARIA” SONOMA VALLEY ZINFANDEL $29.95 [#256410] 
“Winemaking must consume you, or your wines may not be worth consuming.”
- Jeff Gaffner, Winemaker
Saxon Brown is one of Sonoma County’s best-kept secrets, which doesn’t compute given both the wine quality and the ebullient gushing from the press. Consider these comments from the Wall Street Journal after a recent tasting of Saxon Zinfandels: “What Zin can be as a fine wine.” “Classy and structured, with plenty of character. Very fine and very elegant. Oomph and pepper, minerals and great acids, but light on its feet. The fruit shows. Really fine wine. Tastes expensive. Honest wine. Well-integrated. Not overly anything. Ageable.” See what we mean? Now, Jeff crafts two Zinfandel bottlings: one is the 100% Stonewall Block Parmalee Hill, an elegant style which we carry of course. This Casa Santinamaria is from a vineyard planted to a classic field blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carignane, Alicante Bouschet and Mataro; all of which play a complementary role in the complexity and structure of the final wine. (Field blending is a traditional practice brought to California by Italian immigrants). Due to the age of the vines and the fact that are dry farmed, the yields are well below average for Zinfandel, the clusters are very small and the fruit is very concentrated. The Santinamaria shows an intense raspberry and dried cranberry signature that seems to run from year to year, along with black cherry/berry, dark chocolate and sweet elegant oak tones. On the mouth this wine has great structure and a mélange of dried raspberry, mocha and chocolate dust reminiscent of a decadent raspberry chocolate torte. Very rich finishes long.


BOUCHAINE 2005 CARNEROS CHARDONNAY $19.95 [#206420]  
We are big fans of Bouchaine. A winery with significant historical roots, Bouchaine inhabits the oldest continually operated winery in Carneros with vines first planted in the mid-1800s. Completely renovated and updated, new ownership hired Michael Richmond as winemaker and general manager. With over 30 years experience in Carneros, (he founded Acacia), he set new standards in both the vineyard and winemaking. The modest price belies these efforts. Mike said that he wanted the oak to be “transparent”, with a “wisp of spice”, and he kept the malolactic to 50%. It showed very well upon summer release, and we were shamelessly effusive in our praise at a recent retasting. This 2005 defines balance and seamlessness. The fruit is all estate and the oak was only 30% new, which most definitely begat the desired result. This beauty is crisp and multi-tropical, coating the palate with added hints of peach, citrus, lemon crème, spice and vanilla. The wine has developed a subtle and most interesting mineral component beaming throughout. A great vintage for Bouchaine!


MINER FAMILY 2006 “SIMPSON VINEYARD” CALIFORNIA VIOGNIER $16.99 [#276932] 
We’re always amazed by Miner’s across-the-board quality. This is frankly an exceptional Viognier. Aromatically complex with citrus and honeysuckle on the nose and a satiny, fleshy feel on the palate. Vibrant flavors of tropical fruit and exotic flowers characterize this ever-so-alluringly white wine. Balanced by just the right amount of acidity, pair it with crab cakes, sushi or even stir-fry and you’ll be a believer.

Features from April

CAPIAUX, CARGASACCHI, DREW, SIDURI
EXPRESSIVE PINOTS FROM EXPRESSIVE SITES

At the risk of writing again about something which has already been discussed to death, here goes. The concept of terroir (simply put – the total natural environment of any viticultural site) informs and defines the French Appellation Controlee system. There’s quite a gap between New and Old World ideas on this matter. Although the Newbies (us) have often tended to dismiss the whole idea as mystical or commercially driven, we have also notoriously attempted to imitate the products of the great vineyards without regard to terroir and in the process “stamped” out wines which previously were stylish and distinctive in the truest sense. And of course we’ve seen a significant amount of interest and allegiance to the terroir philosophy here in California over the last few decades. Gad Zooks! An interesting, compelling, and debatable issue it is – giving us something more to talk about at the Wine Bar. Now, leaping ahead, we obviously think there is substance to this terroir talk or we wouldn’t be highlighting these particular bottlings. The Pinot Noir grape is arguably the most site conveying of varietals. And is this not at least part of the reason why so many North American winemakers have become enamored with basically becoming, if you will, agents of flavor, mediators of taste, conduits of complexity, for this noble grape? Read any Pinot producer’s bio: “I don’t know. Something came over me and I just had to make the stuff.” Seriously, here are some stellar Pinot Noirs from stellar sites and stellar producers.

 

DREW FAMILY CELLARS: AN OENOLOGICAL ODYSSEY
Jason Drew’s first vineyard experience was assisting his uncle as they planted a vineyard in Stag’s Leap. The blood and sweat (he didn’t cry) whet his appetite for agriculture so it was off to UC Santa Cruz to study dirt. Snapshots from the ensuing years show Jason at St. Supery, Carmenet, the University of Adelaide in Australia, Joseph Phelps, Corison, and Luna. Hooking up with Bryan Babcock as Assistant Winemaker was critical for Jason as he explored the intricacies of both Pinot Noir and the Santa Rita Hills. The Drew label was born in 2000. A new milestone for Jason and his wife/partner Molly is the construction of a winery in Mendocino County just three miles from the Pacific. Poised for greatness? We think so. (P.S. These are all quite limited)

DREW 2006 “GATEKEEPERS” SANTA RITA HILLS PINOT NOIR $39.95 [#215260]   


This is a blend from two vineyards located on opposite ends of the Santa Rita Hills Appellation (Rio Vista Vineyard at the East end and Ashley’s Vineyard on the West end). The wine reveals aromas of Bing cherries, boysenberry, and blackberry tea with hints of watermelon and floral spice notes with a wonderful integration of oak.


DREW 2006 “WEIR VINEYARD” YORKVILLE HIGHLANDS PINOT NOIR $39.95 [#216730]    
This relatively new appellation is situated on the Southeastern border of Anderson Valley spread out amongst the redwoods. The Weir