Italy: Pala Winery & The Island of Sardinia

As the second largest island in the Mediterranean, Sardinia enjoys a long coastline and beautifully pure sunshine. The mountains rise quickly from the shore and most of Sardinia is rocky, remote, even wild. Sardinia is a bit like France’s Provence region as it's famous for the fragrant mix of herbs growing on the hills (known locally as “La Macchia”) as well as brilliant blue water and unbeatable beaches. We’ve been fascinated with Sardinia’s unique mix of grape varieties and wines for many years. We got an early taste of these wines this year when the folks from Pala Winery visited us in February, and we’re excited to finally be able to bring you this lineup.

The more we taste Vermentino the more we like it— not only because it is a bright and citrusy white, but also there are so many layers and possible expressions within the grape. The “Stellato” is Pala’s top tier Vermentino set aside from a single vineyard site; but the real interest here is the way “Stellato” builds richness and viscosity on top of bracing, mouth-watering frame. Think of an ideal blend of Chablis’ minerality combined with the creaminess, marzipan and nut-oil qualities you might find in a White Rhône blend. Look for bright lime and tangerine fruit with more exotic yellow plum and white flowers. One of Italy’s top wine guides (L’Espresso) just selected Pala “Stellato” Vermentino as the top Vermentino in Sardinia. Vermentino is far and away the most widely produced wine in Sardnia, so that’s quite an honor. We’re not surprised-- “Stellato” is delicious and quite striking!

$24.95 750ml [302001]

The Monica grape is one of “disputed origin,” but the best theories seem to be that Monica came to Sardinia with Spanish monks in the late Middle Ages. Many also believe that Monica is the same grape the Spanish brought to California as the “Mission Grape.” This is the supplest and brightest of the three classic Sardinian red varieties. Look for aromas of violets and subtle anise backed by a core of red fruit. Monica is traditionally served with fuller, fattier fish dishes, especially Sardignia’s famous Blue Fin Tuna.

$14.95 750ml [302018]

Cannanou is the standard bearer for Sardinian red varieties. It is related to Grenache and may even be the parent of Spain's and France’s Grenache vineyards as ancient Cannonou seeds have been found in Sardinia dating back to 1,500 BC. Imagine a medium-bodied Côtes du Rhone as a starting point, but with look for more dramatic notes of wild herbs from the rustic Sardinian hills: black plum, sage, thyme and subtle smoky lavender. This is a warm, ripe red that holds onto its prettiness despite the heat of the sun.

$16.98 750ml [302016]

The rarest and most robust of Sardinia’s native red grapes, the Bovale Sardo is nearly black in color, densely packed and explosively wide-ranging in flavor. For Pala, the Cannonau and Monica are grown at higher altitudes to produce better balance and aroma, but the Bovale grape is sun-loving and is grown on a hot, rocky plain. Look for blackberry fruit, luscious fig, ripe black olive and a thread of savory wild herbs throughout. There are over 4 million sheep grazing on the rugged hills of Sardinia—it’s easy to imagine a glass of this powerful red as a perfect accompaniment to a rack of lamb.

$26.98 750ml [308013]

New Discoveries - June

The Late Bottled Vintage Port category really gained traction after the Second World War as producers sought to accommodate exigencies of the fast-paced modern world. After all, there just aren’t many folks today that have the time or inclination to lay down a stash of Vintage Port for their offspring to enjoy. LBV Ports are wines from a single vintage that have most of the heft and intensity of Vintage Port. However, instead of aging for just two years in cask like Vintage Ports, LBVs are stored up to six years in wood prior to bottling-- a factor which greatly accelerates their drinkability. Another big plus is price; LBVs generally sell for twenty to twenty-five dollars which, of course, is a small fraction of the cost of a properly-aged, traditional Vintage Port. Though founded back in 1790 by Spaniard Gonzales Martinez, Martinez is not well known in the United States. Because of their “under the radar” status the firm’s Ports, which often rival the best, sell for considerably less. For example this 2003 is one the best drinking LBVs we sell and was a savvy buy for twenty dollars. Now, thanks to a distributor liquidation (to make room for the firm’s lighter bodied 2005s), what was simply a smart buy has turned into a crazy, smoking deal. This Martinez impresses with its youthful dark ruby color while the nose abounds with fresh red and black berry aromas that are accented with hints of mint and cedar. On the palate this 2003 has all the bright fruit, stuffing and intensity that Port-lovers crave while managing to retain an overall sense of polish and balance. It’s great with chocolate-based desserts, blue cheeses as well as stronger Portugese cheeses. We should also add that unlike most LBVs, this wine had a light filtration prior to bottling so it will not need decanting.

Sale $9.95 Normally $19.95 750ml [376482]

There are those rare moments when you come across a wine so dazzling and unlike anything else, that there is no better description than to call it a Unicorn. That is the case here, as we bring you a sparkling wine made by none other than Eric Texier... known by some as one of France’s most brilliant contemporary winemakers.

Texier used old vines of white and pink Chasselas growing on sandstone in a town called Flaviac in the Rhône Valley. This wine, which he named Rouletabulle, is 80% Chasselas (a white grape also known as Fendant in Switzerland) and 20% Muscat de Hambourg (red Muscat table grape) from a nearby plot.

Rouletabulle offers a copious stream of bubbles. The nose and palate deliver notes of white peach, lime and white flowers (think magnolia blossoms). There is a gentle hint of sweetness to this wine that makes it so delicious and “gulpable.” On a warm day this wine will shine as it is pure and refreshing.

There is a term in the wine business for wines that are so off-the-beaten-path for the consumer, that they are known as a “hand sell.” Yes, Rouletabulle is one of those wines. But it is also our job as wine retailers to find those rare, unique wines that we love-- and hopefully you will, too. Ladies and Gentlemen: the Unicorn. -Veronica Castro

$18.98 750ml [376228]

New Discoveries - May

DOWNES FAMILY 2012 SANCTUARY PEAK SAUVIGNON BLANC
SOUTH AFRICA

Downes Family Vineyards is situated in the Elgin Valley within the Kogelberg Biosphere with mountains on their western boundary and the Palmiet River forming the eastern boundary. The Elgin Valley which has long been regarded as the apple and pear center of South Africa, now has some of the country's most highly regarded winemakers establishing vineyards in the area, testament to its obvious winemaking potential.

They focus on viticulture principles in order to reflect their commitment to winemaking as an expression of terroir. Technological surveys ensured that the correct grape variety, clone and rootstock combination was planted in the diverse ancient soil types. The vineyards benefit from the high altitude cool temperatures, as well as an abundant rainfall throughout the year and the prevailing cold summer wind, known as the "Black South-Easter" blowing in from the ocean 12 kilometers away. Viticulture practices and canopy management, which enhance longer ripening periods, capture in the wines the broad spectrum of flavors created in the cool climate of this unique terroir!

The focus of this wine is based on a vineyard component arising from low yielding Table Mountain Sandstone soils. Using neutral yeasts, Shannon Sauvignon Blanc expresses very distinctive and concentrated primary fruit aromas of asparagus, citrus, and some capsicum in a minerally and flinty style. The clay/shale soils however, provide the Sauvignon with flavors on the riper side of the fruit spectrum and with more structure for a broader palate. The blending in of naturally fermented Semillon, matured on the lees, provides a fuller mouth feel and adds to the complexity of the wine. This wine was vinified in a style that enhances the aging potential of Sauvignon Blanc.

$19.95 750ml [382036]

One of the big pluses of summer is the pleasure of outdoor dining. Of course, there are many types of wine that work well out on the patio. However, for us nothing quite matches the magic of well-crafted rosé Champagne. A case in point is this stunning discovery from Daniel Etienne. The Etienne family has been tilling the soil above the tiny Premier Cru hamlet of Cumieres for many generations. Cumieres is situated on the Marne River a few miles northeast of Epernay. Its gentle slopes, which are overlooked by the Bois de St.-Marc and the ridge of Hautvillers to the north, enjoy a beneficial southern and southeasterly exposure. Today Daniel and Brigitte farm some 18 acres of vines practicing “culture raisonnée”-using chemical treatments only as last resort. Their brut rosé is a blend of estate grown fruit from the 2007 and 2006 harvests. It was bottled in early 2008 and was disgorged in August 2012 with a light dosage of six grams per liter. This pale salmon bubbly commences with pleasing scents of summer berries joined with hints of rose petals and watermelon. While predominately composed of Pinot Noir, the Chardonnay component (25%) keeps this rosé light-footed and lively as it proffers zingy cherry and cranberry flavors modulated by creamy autolytic notes and haunting mineral tones. A charmer from start to finish that is definitely priced right.

$39.98 750ml [376331]

We introduced Bernard Tornay’s nifty multi-vintage Carte d’Or Champagne last fall. That Champagne made a great introduction the luxuriant Tornay style and was an excellent value at just thirty-six dollars. Remarkably for a few more dollars more, we are now able to offer Tornay’s stellar 2002 Millesime which is considerably grander, more profound Champagne. It’s a 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the Grand Cru villages of Bouzy and Ambonnay. Initially fermented in stainless steel with full malolatic, this cuvée was bottled in early 2003 and was patiently aged sur lattes for eight years in the family’s cellar. The result is sumptuous Champagne whose brassy-yellow hue works nicely as a backdrop to show off its fine strands of gentle bubbles. The well-developed bouquet displays nuances that run the gamut from baked apples and white chocolate to brioche and brown spices. Its broad, silky palate presents ripe golden apple, Bartlett pear and sage honey flavors juxtaposed over a taut undercarriage of chalk-flecked acidity. Here, then, is a full-framed, but well-poised Champagne that offers a wealth to ponder and savor and one that gets our vote for the best Champagne value from the esteemed 2002 vintage. Drink now and over the next several years.

$39.98 750ml [376237]

New Discoveries - April

Nerosso is a deliciously juicy red blend from the Gulf of Taranto side of Italy’s boot made from 25% each of Negro Amaro, Primitivo, Malvasia Nera and Uva di Troia. Like a good Italian symphony, each varietal plays its role in creating an overall experience... in this case, a terrifically modern expression of southern Italian traditional varietals.

The name “Curezza” comes from the fact that this portion of Feudo San Nicola’s vineyards receives special care (curezza in Italian). Green harvest is in early spring with overnight hand-picking to ensure the fresh fruit flavors are retained. The grapes are all co-macerated in vat for 15 days with fermentation finished over 25 days in barrel. The wine then rests in neutral wood for about three months. It’s rich, flavorful, fragrant and not at all like its neighbors to the east (Salice Salentino). Nicola Biscardo, the winemaker, is purposely sourcing fruit from the slightly elevated, closer-to-the-gulf vineyards near Carosino...purposely outside the DOC so that he can employ modern techniques, create an innovative blend and stay far away from the chunky, hard, earthiness that can plague red wines from the area. If one were to attempt an analysis of this particular symphony of varietals, it might go something like this: Negro Amaro provides the bass, the rich foundation; Malvasia Nera is all cellos and violas, well-rounded black and red fruits; Primitivo brings in the violin, brightness and purity; and Uva di Troia is equal parts percussion and wind instruments… it sprinkles the whole affair with violet notes and helps define the clarity of the blend. Delicious! Nerosso will have you rethinking Southern Italian reds… and maybe even pulling out those old Vivaldi CDs!

The nose is rife with black pepper and sweet red fruit (strawberry/raspberry) with a nice base of minerality and sea salt and just a touch of black licorice. Flavors of sweet fruit follow through on the palate, with strawberry preserves in the fore amidst a chorus of mixed berry fruits. Nicely spiced again on the palate, pepper is meshed with touches of cedar and tea and deeper, darker spices in the background. Bright acidity keeps the wine balanced as fruit and spice reverberate on and on across the palate, bringing down the house with a sweet, gentle decrescendo of wondrous flavor, scent and, dare we say, harmony.

$14.95 750ml [301264]

VINS D'ORRANCE 11 CB "KAMA"

Born and raised in France, to a family of Calvados producers, Christophe Durand moved to Cape Town in 1995. Beginning as a supplier of premium French wine barrels and very much involved in winemaking, it was only a matter of time until he brought together his knowledge and passion for fine wines into creating his own. After laying his hands on a small and beautiful vineyard in the Simonsberg area, he created his own label, called “Vins d’Orrance.” We are also featuring his Chardonnay this month for our cover feature (below, right) but just had to highlight this amazing Chenin Blanc. This is as complex and rich a Chenin Blanc as we’ve had-- from pretty much anywhere. French in style, the South African terroir shows through brilliantly. A little bit about the process: for his white wines, all bunches are pressed, left for 24 hours to settle nicely, then racked straight into 225-liter Burgundian barrels where the alcoholic and malolactic fermentation will occur (this wine spent 9 months in 3rd fill French oak). All of Durand’s whites are kept on clean lees with regular battonage and soft filtration before bottling. The nose on Kama (transated from Sanskrit as ‘pleasure of the senses’) is kaleidoscopic: notes of wet stone, white florals, lemon grass, baking spices, stone fruits, a touch of petroleum and hints of creaminess captivated us. The palate was as deep with gorgeous, lush viscousity kept perfectly aloft with brilliant acidity. Flavors of white peach and mixed stone fruits, minerality, a touch of sweet spice balanced atop neutral oak, all seductively silky in texture, resolve in a flourish of flavorful depth, wondrous length and sated desires (well, perhaps taking just one more taste...)...

$29.95 750ml [382029]

BACALHOA MOSCATEL DE SETUBAL COLHEITA 2007

At one time the Moscatel (Muscat) wines of Setabul were rightly counted and priced with the world’s greatest dessert wines. Rather mysteriously they fell out of favor after the Second World War, so today even the best examples like this nectar from Bacalhoa remain woefully under priced. Bacalhoa first came to our attention in the fall of 2011 when their 2004 vintage won the International Trophy for the best sweet fortified wine under 10 pounds at Decanter Magazine’s annual World Wine Awards competition. This past fall this 2007 vintage took home a second trophy. Not surprisingly we started getting calls from people clamoring for the wine, but we didn’t have a source for it until now.

Setubal is a small peninsula located just south of Lisbon. The region is famed for its delicious caldeiradas (fish stews) as well for its scenic Arrabida Hills where the best Muscat de Alexandria vines are planted. In Setubal, much as with the Ports of the Douro, the fermentation of sweet Muscat grapes is arrested after a short time by the addition of a small dose of brandy. The wine is then kept in contact with the grape skins for six months to accentuate its floral aromatics and flavor intensity. This colheita was then aged in small oak barrels for nearly four years in a warm corrugated steel-roofed warehouse to caramelize the sugars and to further concentrate its flavors through evaporation. The result is a complex, hedonistic, and cerebral taste experience that would be a steal at twice our price!

ecanter Magazine’s judging panel gave this wine its top 5 Star rating with these gushing notes: “Wildly perfumed with a peachy, floral, apple confit, cinnamon and nutmeg nose. Beautiful nutty flavors of pink grapefruit, Marmalade and caramel mingling with honey and figs, fresh apricots, raisins and oranges. Bold and opulent.”

$9.95 750ml [376898]

While Bordeaux is arguably the world’s most beloved wine region, its sparking wines remain virtually unknown in the US. In fact this beguiling bubbly from Château de Sours is the first (to our knowledge) that we have ever featured. Château de Sours is situated high up on a limestone plateau just to the southwest of Pomerol facing the town of Saint-Émilion. The winemaking mission here is to blend traditional rigor and craftsmanship with a creative, modern approach. This bubbly was produced using the classic Methode Champenoise (secondary fermentation in the bottle) followed by 14-16 months of aging sur lattes in the château’s 18th Century limestone caves. A 50/50 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this pale strawberry-pink bubbly features a fine, steady bead that releases hints of wildflowers along with an assortment of red summer fruits on the nose. The palate features a delicate interplay of watermelon, cherry and Meyer lemon flavors underscored with notions of cream, pastry dough and limestone. This value-priced bubbly certainly impresses with its sense of balance, finesse, and flavor persistence. A very classy drink, especially at this modest tariff.

$14.95 750ml [374885]

MAX FERD RICHTER MULHEIMER SONNENLAY 2011 RIESLING

This wine rocks! In the postmodern era, in our opinion, anything with a zeppelin on it should have a certain amount of, pardon my verbal crudité, "kick-assness." This Riesling more than qualifies because it is '...the wine most often poured during the flights of the Zeppelin.' And it's very good wine; but first the history lesson: "The winegrowers of Mülheim on the Mosel were able to make this proud boast about their Riesling from the Mülheimer Sonnenlay vineyard during the ´twenties and ´thirties. From this, Mülheim gained its reputation as Zeppelinwein. Today wines from Mülheim are still marketed with the Art Deco Zeppelin label, a reminder of the days when the Zeppelin crossed the Atlantic and passengers relaxed in its luxurious restaurant sipping this delicious Riesling."

The nose is a beautiful meshing of orange marmalade, apricot preserves, peach syrup and just a touch of orange blossoms and sweet spice, muscat.
The palate is unctuous and luxurious, fruit-filled and incredibly, viscously rich; but it has plenty of underlying acidity to keep it clean and not stuck to the roof of one's mouth. Flavors of white pêche, mixed stone fruits, a touch of river rock and light, sweet spice lead to a sweet, satisfying finish. Simply lovely wine. Seafood, shellfish and sushi come to mind with this; maybe spicier Thai dishes. You might ultimately seek more acidity with your fatty seafood wine, but the flavors mesh quite well.

Do you come from the land of the ice and snow? Got a spare hammer of the gods ready to drive your ship to new lands? This Riesling will help get you there in style.

$12.99 750ml [333375]