Burgundy

• Alsace
• Beaujolais/Cru
• Bordeaux Red
• Bordeaux White

• Burgundy Red
• Burgundy White
• Loire Valley

• Rhone Red
• Rhone White
• Southern France

AUGEY 2005 BORDEAUX $6.99 [#300890]  
Straight from the “don’t judge a book by its cover” department comes a screaming Bordeaux deal that qualifies as a sure-fired Bordeaux bargain emanating from this vintage of vintages! We’ve long carried Augey (pronounced O-Jay) as kind of a standard staple to our upstairs national brand set. Upon cruising through the aisle recently, we noticed that the wine had shifted over to the 2005 vintage. As the saying goes, “a rising tide lifts all boats” so we decided to pop a bottle just for the heck of it. Boy, were we surprised! The wine is simply delightful! It’s easily the best Augey Bordeaux we’ve ever experienced surpassing even the 2000! It leads off with an enticing nose of mixed red currants and cherries reiterated to the palate in conjunction with warm hints of spice and sweet earth. Several staff members were shocked, upon tasting blind, to discover that the wine they were enjoying and lavishing praise upon was none other than good old “Augey Doggie.” Even long time wine buyer Chuck Hanson shook his head in disbelief! It’s a classic “pop and go” production that’s perfect for informal gatherings, surprise guests and large group parties. It goes without saying you can’t beat the price given the pedigree provided the wine by the superb 2005 vintage! We’re not proffering this as something extraordinary or profound or probably even that age worthy but the bottom line is that for $7.00, this “dog” will hunt! Perfect for tax season!

CORBIERES 2005 “CUVEE RENAISSANCE” DOMAINE DE FONTENELLES $12.95 [#302806] 
This wine represents one of the best Corbieres we’ve ever experienced! The wine leads off with a beautiful nose of rose petal, spice and tea followed by a delightfully rich and expressive palate of cherry/black cherry, blackberry and boysenberry fruit. Hints of white chocolate, tea leaf, sassafras, anise and fennel provide additional complexity to this well-priced gem that delivers a breed, finesse and character that goes way beyond the genre and price point! Blended from Syrah, Cinsault, Grenache and Mourvedre, this little Corbieres represents one heck of a buy!

COTES DE LUBERON 2005 DOMAINE FONTENILLE $11.95 [#360503]  
Welcome back, Domaine Fontenille! We love this estate and recall fondly a luncheon we enjoyed there many, many years ago. We purchase it just about every year and look forward to its annual arrival. The only year we can recall skipping recently was 2003 as the wine was too overtly ripe, atypical and somewhat alcoholic! Fontenille is certainly back to form in 2005 following a lovely 2004. This Cotes du Rhone-styled blend combines dark dollops of mixed plum and black cherry fruit with hints of allspice, garrigue and white pepper. Perfect for grilled meats or recipes of any kind, the wine showcases an impeccable balance and breed that goes way beyond both the genre and the price point!

FRENCH STEAL-OF-THE-MONTH:

DOMAINE FOULAQUIER 2004 COTEAUX DE LANGUEDOC PIC ST. LOUP $21.95 [#302805] 
While the Languedoc may not reside near the front page for most people, savvy bargain hunters will not want to miss this superb production that recently garnered 92 points from the Wine Advocate! Our notes reference loads of soft, plummy ripe fruit with hints of allspice and garrigue to complement the wine’s user-friendly flambéed cherry finish. The Advocate (David Schildknecht) notes, “80% Syrah vinified in barriques and demi-muids. Essence of blueberry, black cherry preserves and brown spices in the nose lead to a pure, refined, subtly sweet but intense black and blue fruit palate concentrate with inner-mouth hints of violets and pleasantly piquant suggestions of black walnut, iodine and chalk adding to the allure of a superbly long finish. I am reminded of a hypothetical marriage between the wonderfully, stylistically diverse Syrahs of Steve Edmunds and his friend John Alban. Needless to say, this wine represents a superb value!” (92 points)

CHATEAU THEBOT 2005 BORDEAUX $12.95 [#309987]  
We lead off our presentation with a superb bargain that was a huge hit with the 2003 vintage. The 2005 is every bit as good if not better. It’s albeit a different scenario in that the 2005 is far more structured and chiseled than the soft, user-friendly 2003. Having said that, we’re positive you’ll recognize that the 2005 Thebot is far more serious than the 2003 with excellent short, mid-term ageing potential. We like this wine a lot and were it not for the Lanessan deal currently in the store (read on, readers!) this would have been our Bordeaux “Steal-of-the-Month!”

CHATEAU LA GARDE 2005 PESSAC-LEOGNAN $29.95 [#305204]  
Damn, almost a good wine! All facetiousness aside, this wonderfully sculpted Pessac-Leognan delivers everything a classic Pessac should! Terroir-driven fruit is the call here capturing wonderful vectors of rocks, stones and gravel in conjunction with flambéed cherry, mixed currant fruit, La Garde is not necessarily for the “California crowd” in that its classic French profile captures all that’s wonderful about an underrated appellation that prizes a sense of place above varietal character, per se. Those with a European palate and sensibility will love this! (Wine Spectator 89)

CHATEAU FAIZEAU 2005 “VV” ST. EMILION $23.99 [#373571]  
Parker Sleeper, massive fruit, 15% natural, Michel Rolland, 100% Merlot, ‘Nuff said! (Advocate 90-92)

CHATEAU BELGRAVE 2005 HAUT MEDOC $39.99 [#375478]  
Belgrave is one of those wines we always look forward to tasting because this winemaking team refuses to make any concessions to either modernity or critics! They fashion traditionally-styled claret that one either takes or leaves! Predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, Belgrave is a 5th Growth estate that has hit the jackpot in 2005! Those with a predilection for old-fashioned Bordeaux, the kind your Dad used to drink with you, will love this! It combines the glorious fruit of the vintage with an underlying grip, tension and sense of place that only old-school Bordeaux can deliver! We flat out love this wine and at $40, it’s a steal given the context of the vintage! (Wine Spectator 91)

CHATEAU DE FIEUZAL 2005 PESSAC-LEOGNAN $39.95 [#374602]  
Here’s another classic Pessac that would make Edmund Penning Rowsell, God bless him, proud! Long a champion of Graves/Pessac-Leognan, Sir Edmund would have loved the 2005 de Fieuzal which captures everything magical about the appellation, the vintage and the estate. It’s a wine lover’s wine that combines deep flavors of black cherry/black berry fruit with hints of tobacco, forest floor, baker’s chocolate, black truffles, road tar and molten magma. Stones, rocks and gravel of all sorts abound in this terroirist’s delight that defies modernity and its penchant for overdone, overmanipulated ripe fruit. Aaah, if there were only a few more wines like this! We toast you, Sir Edmund, wherever you are! (Advocate 91-93/Spectator 90)

CHATEAU MONBOUSQUET 2005 ST. EMILION $79.95 [#376585]  
While we often question the efficacy of Gerard Pearse’s approach to Right Bank Bordeaux, there’s no denying their commercial appeal based upon an accessible, modern style and high Parker rates. This symbiotic relationship has fueled a dramatic upward spiral for prices on wines from Pearse’s stable; particularly Pavie and Pavie Decesse. So when we came upon a rogue parcel of Monbousquet priced at a niveau we thought still made sense, we put our philosophical differences aside and pulled the trigger. For the record, Parker calls it “unquestionably the finest wine Gerard Pearse has yet produced from this less than ideal terroir.” While it lasts! (Advocate 94-96)

CHATEAU BRANE CANTENAC 2005 MARGAUX $89.99 [#374525]  
Those looking for something a bit more traditional should reach for Brane Cantenac. We’ve been tracking this estate since 1999 when the Margaux renaissance began and concur with Parker’s assessment that 2005 brings us “the greatest Brane-Cantenac ever!” In a word, this wine is stunning! It delivers classic vectors of Margaux fruit for the both nose and palate in conjunction with the superb harmony and finesse so typical of wines from this regal commune. Classic in every sense of the word! (Advocate 93-95)

CHATEAU LANESSAN 2005 HAUT-MEDOC $24.95 [#305668]  
We’ve long been fans of Chateau Lanessan as this estate perennially delivers high quality at a low price. This property has been on a bit of a role lately as we had a successful run with both their 1996 and 2000 which we found after the fact at a very reasonable price. Their 2005 continues this string of success with a fab wine that combines the phenomenal fruit of 2005 with a traditional winemaking approach that stresses a sense of place and historical continuity. Throw in some marvelous complexity and an outstanding price/score ratio and you have a sure-fired, slam dunk winner! For the record, Parker comments this may be the “finest Lanessan I have ever tasted” noting, “It boasts a deep ruby/purple hue as well as scents of blueberries, blackberries, cassis and new saddle leather. Full-bodied with terrific concentration, sweet tannin and beautiful length as well as richness, this stunning wine represents fabulous value.” (WA 90-92)
 

LOIRE VALLEY REDS!
Loire Valley reds represent a bourgeoning category as high Bordeaux prices have necessitated a value category for French red wine other than the Rhone and the south. We’re increasingly enamored of these versatile reds produced (100%) from the Cabernet Franc grape! They capture a genuine sense of place while imparting a distinctive fruit character and superb price/value quotients.

BOURGEUIL 2005 “CUVEE BEAUVAIS” DOMAINE CHANTELEUSERIE $14.95 [#300706] 
It had been a while since we had tasted or carried these classics from the Kermit Lynch portfolio so when given the opportunity to sample them again, we readily said, “Why not!” Our curiosity was rewarded with two stellar examples of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc! Both capture the impeccable breed and richness of France’s wonderful 2005 vintage! Chanteleuserie’s “Beauvais” showcases a delightful mouthful of soft red fruit encompassing wild cherry/wild berry fruit nuanced with hints of tea leaf, spice and forest floor. It’s the perfect ‘red wine with seafood” wine in that the tannin and acid levels are soft and malleable for the palate. You certainly can’t beat the price!

BOURGEUIL 2005 “VIEILLES VIGNES” DOMAINE CHANTELEUSERIE $15.95 [#307700] 
Chanteleuserie’s “Old Vines” cuvee stresses such black fruits as plum, forest berry and cherry nuanced with hints of black olive, tobacco leaf, fig, loam and truffles. The wine’s label conveniently emphasizes the black fruit nature of the wine. Given this wine’s incredible fruit richness and density, it’s a steal and we heartily recommend it for grilled meats/bistro fare of any sort! C’est superb ca!

SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE 2005 “AUX CLOUS” DOMAINE CHENU $34.95 [#312111]  
This wonderfully wrought wine is a traditionalist’s delight and upon tasting, we bought every case we could get our hands on! This well-done 1er Cru leads off with a scintillating, terroirist’s nose of sweet earth and spice followed by a warm and satisfying palate of cherry/black cherry, wild berry fruit nuanced with hints of Asian tea and truffles. This fantastic bargain is a true Burgundy lover’s wine in that it represents a genuine sense of place, that certain je ne sais quoi that only Burgundy can deliver! Tired of soulless Pinot Noir that tastes more and more like Aussie Shiraz? Here’s the genuine article that delivers breed, pedigree and finesse and at a price that’s sure to make you smile. In the words of Allen Meadows, “mere hedonism is just that…empty pleasure seeking.” Burgundy is capable of delivering so much more if you keep an open mind! Trust us, this wine delivers!

FRANCE: “DISCOVERY SERIES…
DOMAINE DE LA CHAPELLE DES BOIS!”
This article could just have easily been entitled Dueling Beaujolais! We recently tasted two superb productions from the cutting-edge Neal Rosenthal portfolio. Both are fine Cru wines that definitely deserve a spot at your table. The Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois is an up-and-coming estate discovered by Neal on a recent sojourn through France and we look forward to a lot of fine wine from this newly discovered property.

CHIROUBLES 2006 DOMAINE DE LA CHAPELLE DES BOIS $17.95 [#306904]
This is easily the best Chiroubles we’ve ever had! The wine seduces from the get-go starting off with its bright magenta color in the glass followed by a complex nose of cherries and raspberries reiterated to the palate in conjunction with fine hints of sundry cooking spices and flowers. Silky, bright and satisfying, this is a classically rendered wine that not only delivers immediate pleasure but will age nicely over the next 2-5 years!

BARGAIN BURGUNDY “A BAKER’S DOZEN!”

It’s a “High Tide and Green Grass” scenario for Burgundy lovers as our store is currently inundated with some of the finest efforts we can ever remember from this hallowed region! What’s more, many of these finds are not necessarily going to break your purse or wallet. We offer for your edification a select group of bargains that recently showed very well at an in-store wine bar event. Who says great Burgundy has to be expensive?!

BOURGOGNE BLANC 2005 “FORGETS” PATRICK JAVILLIER $29.95[#305629]   
Javillier has clearly hit a home-run in 2005 with any number of outstanding wines! This is a classic “insider’s domaine” that produces stylish, traditionally wrought wines. This crowd pleaser leads off with a seductive nose of vanilla bean and white flowers followed by an enticing palate of honeyed peach and white nectarine. Nicely balanced and even-keeled, this harmonious value is strikingly Meursault-like which should come as no surprise given Javillier’s reputation as one of Meursault’s top producers.

BOURGOGNE BLANC 2005 “OLIGOCENE” PATRICK JAVILLIER $33.99 [#305625]    
Take all of the above and add the dimension of driving minerality and you have Javillier’s Cuvee Oligocene. Named after the rocky limestone soil whence the grapes are grown, this effort is truly a mini-Meursault in combining the orchard fruit richness for which the village is renowned with a crisp acidity that brings you back again and again!

BOURGOGNE ROUGE 2005 PIERRE MOREY $19.99 [#305831]    
This wonderfully wrought value is dedicated to those who like their Pinot on the sauvage side. We daresay it’s a de-classified Pommard or comes, at least, from vineyards closely located to this renowned village. There’s no mistaking the underlying grip, tension and earthiness in this wine that’s offset with soft cherry/berry, black cherry fruit. Scintillating hints of spice, truffles and game define a long, lingering finish. This superb value is readily meant for stews and heartier meat dishes such as venison or beef bourguignon.

CHOREY-LES-BEAUNE 2005 DOMAINE TOLLOT-BEAUT $29.95 [#350300]   
This sleeper pick definitely needs a bit of time but that should tell you how serious it is; particularly from Chorey-les-Beaune! We’ve long been fans of Tollot-Beaut’s traditionally styled wines and this particular bargain is superb. It leads off with an enticing nose of cola nut and sassafras followed by a tightly wound palate of wild berries, sweet earth and forest herbs. This is old-time Burgundy for sure but will definitely reward those with the patience to stash a bottle or two!

CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 2005 DROUHIN-LAROZE $49.95 [#303142]    
Here’s another superb bargain from Drouhin-Laroze! As noted above, things have improved here dramatically! Regarding the estate Allen Meadows notes, “Given the relatively reasonable prices their wines sell for, they are well worth a close look.” We loved this little Chambolle Musigny! It delivers a classic Chambolle nose and palate that combines delicious ripe fruit with a nice sense of place and terroir as well. The wine’s pedigree comes from its blend of juice encompassing 90% Les Baudes and 10% from the villages portion of Veroilles. Allen Meadows writes, “An exceptionally pretty and high-toned nose of red, blue and violet aromas trimmed in obvious mineral notes leads to rich, sweet, detailed and nicely full-bodied flavors blessed with plenty of mid-palate extract to buffer the textured but refined tannins that coat the mouth on the long finish. This is a really lovely and racy effort that is very Chambolle in style. Recommended!” [BH 89-92]

HAUT COTES DE NUITS 2005 DOMAINE BERTAGNA $24.95 [#302995]  

We had the opportunity to taste this terrific bargain over last December’s holiday season and can attest to the very favorable price/quality ratio at play. Things have never been better at Domaine Bertagna! We quote the Burghound, Allen Meadows, “A beautifully expressive and bright nose features red pinot fruit and mineral notes that continue onto the ripe, forward and pretty flavors that culminate in a delicious and sappy finish. Good quality here, particularly at this level. Recommended! [BH 85-87] (Please note that Allen Meadows is a very conservative critic and that an 85-87 score is high praise, indeed, for a wine at this price point!)

BEAUNE 2005 “CLOS DU ROI” DOMAINE RAPET $39.95 [#387467]  
Rapet’s run of success continues with an old school Burgundy that leads off with an enticing nose of flowers, spice and herbs followed by a really nice cherry/berry palate that’s somewhat Rhone-y in that it incorporates scintillating nuances of spice, sweet earth and herbs. Nice nuance and complexity and definitely for purists!

SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE 2005 “LAVIERE” TOLLOT-BEAUT $39.95 [#350297]    
Less is definitely more with Tollot-Beaut in 2005. This classically wrought, 1er Cru production is simply superb in delivering classic Savigny fruit nuanced nicely with hints of herbs, sweet earth and flowers. The wine’s wild berry, wild cherry fruit is a joy to behold! There’s a really nice understated character to this wine that’s really refreshing in this era of over-the-top, overpowering productions that do little more than pander! Outstanding juice!

MEURSAULT 2005 “DUROT” PIERRE MOREY $49.95 [#305835]    
This delicious effort needs a bit of time to completely pull itself together but upon tasting, one senses instantly the potential. Deep in color with a very rich assortment of sundry black fruit flavors, it’s rare that one encounters Meursault rouge these days. The wine’s spice/herb inflected fruit carries ripe acidity, good grip and a definite sense of place that, if pressed, we would compare to a real nice Volnay from, let’s say Santenots. It needs a bit of time to integrate all of its components but when it does in 3-5 years, this is going to be really nice. You could easily pay a lot more for a lot less!

FIXIN 2005 MONGEARD-MUGNERET $34.95 [#300609]    
This classic Fixin leads off with spicy nose of earth and wild berries followed by a solid palate of mixed cherry/wild berry fruit. As informative side bar, the village of Fixin is located in the Cote de Nuits just north of Gevrey Chambertin. This particular rendition from Mongeard-Mugneret proffers nice fruit, ripe acidity and that special sense of place that defines Fixin. This one should put on weight with a bit of time and reward amply!

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