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Champagne & Sparkling Wine
by Jim "Bubblehead" Duane |
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A SUPER NATURAL CHAMPAGNE FROM FRANCK PASCAL
“Pascal’s wines have previously been excellent, but today he is taking them
to an even higher plane, and he is on the verge of making this one of
Champagne’s finest grower estates.” –Peter Leim |
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FRANCK PASCAL 2004 “HARMONIE” EXTRA BRUT BLANC DE NOIRS
We selected Franck Pascal’s luminous “Sagaesse” (now dubbed “Reliance”)
cuvée as our Champagne of Month back in November of 2011 because it was such
a great example of the quality that can be derived from fastidious (not to
mention courageous) biodynamic farming coupled with non-interventionist
winemaking. Now with the release of his 2004 “Harmonie” Pascal has raised
the bar even higher. This black grape beauty is made from equal parts of
older vine Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes. As always with Pascal’s
Champagnes, the base wine completed malolactic fermentation and was neither
fined nor filtered. This Champagne was aged on the yeast for six and a half
years prior to disgorgement (11/11) when Franck employed a light organic
cane sugar dosage of just 5 grams per liter. After eighteen months on the
cork, this edition of “Harmonie” is really living up to its name while still
displaying the freshness and vitality that one associates with the bountiful
2004 vintage. Its nose is distinguished by an inviting array of bakery
counter aromas that are complemented by hints of toasted almonds, plums and
Queen Anne cherries. In the mouth this Blanc de Noirs is at once vinous and
nervy as it dishes out multi-dimensional red berry and orchard fruit flavors
that are deftly coupled with savory inflections of nougat and half-baked
biscuits. Its long taut finish leaves a haunting sense of salinity as well
as a stealthy minerality. Already a lofty benchmark for other Valle de la
Marne producers to emulate, this stunning Champagne shows every sign of
evolving into a masterpiece.
$62.98 750ml [376114]
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DOMAINE BRAZILIER METHOD TRAD ROSÉ EXTRA BRUT
Domaine Brazilier is a small biodynamically-farmed estate tucked away in the
eastern Loire Valley appellation of Coteaux du Vendomois. The father-son
team of Jean and Benoit (pictured at left) Brazilier represent the 6th and
7th generation of their family to farm grapes in the area. One of the main
distinctions of the Coteaux du Vendomois is the presence of the arcane red
Pineau d’Aunis grape from which this sparkling Rosé is fashioned. This fizz
presents fresh watermelon and strawberry fragrances and flavors that are
reminiscent of a well-crafted Pinot Noir-based bubbly but with the addition
of a white pepper component that is the flavor signature of Pineau d’Aunis.
Sounds a little wild, we know, but the spiciness here is kept well in check
and only adds to the wine’s flavor interest. This Rosé was topped off with a
scant dosage of 3 grams/liter which helps brings out the citrus and chalk
tones in the finish. A great patio quaff or just the ticket to add a bit of
zest to lighter summer fare.
$12.98 750ml [376287] |
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Bordeaux
2010
"... I have tasted enough wines from 2005, 2009 and 2010 to realize that
these may be the three greatest Bordeaux vintages I have tasted in my
career."
- Robert Parker |
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LA CHENADE
2010 LALANDE POMEROL
WINE SPECTATOR 90 POINTS
- “Ripe and driven, with dark plum and cassis notes inlaid with a serious
graphite edge that imparts nice cut to the anise-filled finish. An echo of
spice and fruit lingers. Drink now through 2017.”
$22.99
750ml [333115]
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CHÂTEAU
GLORIA 2010 SAINT-JULIEN
ROBERT PARKER 93 POINTS
- “The 2010 Gloria is an ass-kicking, fabulous value once again from this
estate, which would probably be classified if the 1855 hierarchy of the
wines of the Medoc were ever done again. Abundant notes of cedar wood,
fruitcake, flowers, creme de cassis and kirsch are all present in this
full-bodied, opulent, dense, dark ruby/purple wine. It is slightly more
restrained than the flamboyant 2009, but equal in quality. This is a juicy,
well-proportioned, sensationally concentrated, super-ripe Gloria to drink
over the next decades. Of course, it is a sleeper of the vintage, given the
reasonable price it normally sells for.”
$62.99
750ml [333136]
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CANTENAC
BROWN 2010 MARGAUX
ROBERT PARKER 94+ POINTS
- “The greatest Cantenac Brown I have ever tasted, the 2010 is one for the
ages. Dense purple, with an extraordinary nose of sweet forest floor,
blackberry jam, pen ink and graphite, this wine soars from the glass, giving
it an aromatic dimension and intensity I have never seen from this estate.
The tannins are present, as they are in most Cantenac Browns, but the wine’s
sweetness, broad, skyscraper-like mouthfeel, dense, purple color and
spectacular length (close to a minute) make this a giant classic and a
fabulous sleeper of the vintage that still remains under-priced, considering
how great its potential may be. This is a wine for those with cold cellars
and youthful DNA. It is going to need at least a decade of cellaring and
should last for 20-40 years. A classic!”
$81.99
750ml [333146]
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LA LAGUNE
2010 HAUT MEDOC
ROBERT PARKER 94 POINTS
- “Another great success from proprietress Caroline Frey, the 2010 La Lagune
provides an essential drinking experience, with notes of Asian plum sauce,
mulberries, kirsch liqueur and black currants. The wine also exhibits a
savory, rich smokiness and subtle lead pencil shaving notes. Full-bodied and
pure, combining both elegance and power, this is a brilliant, very
approachable effort that should hit its stride in 5-7 years and last for at
least two decades. Think of it as a hypothetical blend of the 2005 and 2009.
Kudos!”
$87.99
750ml [333147]
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LA CROIX ST
GEORGES 2010 POMEROL
ROBERT PARKER 91 POINTS
- “Ruby/purple, with lots of chocolaty blackberry and black raspberry fruit
as well as hints of kirsch and toasty oak, this full-bodied, somewhat
modern-style Pomerol should drink well for 10-15 years. This small (not
quite 14-acre) property of Jean-Philippe Janoueix is located on the
Catusseau plateau, not far from Le Pin. This blend of 95% Merlot and 5%
Cabernet Franc is always consistently well-made. At 14.6% natural alcohol,
it is a big, beefy Pomerol with sweet tannin and more minerality than I
would have expected at this stage of its evolution.”
$73.99
750ml [333113]
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PRIEURE
LICHINE 2010 MARGAUX
ROBERT PARKER 92 POINTS
- “Dense purple, with loads of blueberry and blackberry fruit as well as
hints of smoke and subtle charred wood, this wine is expansive, round,
generous, lush and multi-dimensional. This beauty can be drunk now or
cellared for 15-20 years.”
$84.99
750ml [333135]
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CHÂTEAU LOUIS
2010 SAINT-EMILION
ROBERT PARKER 92 POINTS
- “The yields in 2010 were virtually nothing – a mere 12 hectoliters per
hectare – and the wine, a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc is a
big, powerful, full-bodied, rich wine that in many ways reflects the
generous cuisine of this famous bistro. Full-bodied, with a dense
opaque/purple color and notes of creosote, truffle, blackberry and black
raspberry, the wine also has a floral note and hints of crushed rock, giving
it a certain minerality. The precision of the 2010 is there because of good
acidity. Forget this dense, back-strapping, intense wine for 4-5 years and
drink it over the following two decades. It tips the scales at 14.7 %
natural alcohol.”
$67.99
750ml [333117]
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BARDE HAUT
2010 SAINT-EMILION
WINE SPECTATOR 93 POINTS
- “Still a bit compact, with blueberry coulis, fig and blackberry paste
notes tightly wound, backed by tangy black licorice, singed apple wood and
tar on the finish, which features a very sleek structure and a buried iron
note. This has good vivacity and should unwind nicely in the cellar. Best
from 2015 through 2030.”
$47.99
750ml [333148]
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HAUT BERGEY
2010 PESSAC-LEOGNAN
ROBERT PARKER 92 POINTS
- “From Helene Garcin, this blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot
displays classic tobacco leaf and smoky barbecue notes along with rich black
currants and crushed rocks in a medium to full-bodied, seductive,
attractively up-front style. Some Asian plum sauce is also noticeable in
this complex, evolved and delicious wine, which can be drunk over the next
10-15 years. It is a sleeper of the vintage.”
WINE SPECTATOR 92
POINTS - “Offers lush
fruit, with dark raspberry and boysenberry notes, good, graphite-laced
structure and bright acidity weaving throughout. The long, smoldering finish
features an appealing licorice snap and violet profile. Best from 2015
through 2025.”
$44.99
750ml [333131]
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LAFON ROCHET
2010 SAINT-ESTEPHE
WINE SPECTATOR 91 POINTS
- “Features a dark currant and blackberry coulis core, surrounded by
charcoal, singed savory and light coffee notes. The solid, firm, taut finish
should let this linger in the cellar for a decade. Best from 2014 through
2024.”
$65.99
750ml [333110]
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LA TOUR
CARNET 2010 HAUT MEDOC
ROBERT PARKER 93 POINTS
- “Probably La Tour Carnet’s best since their 2001, the 2010 La Tour Carnet
exhibits wonderful ripeness, a dense ruby/purple color, notes of licorice,
camphor and some toast as well as lots of black currant and blueberry fruit.
It is medium to full-bodied, with attractive sweetness of tannin, good
acidity, excellent delineation to its component parts, and a full-bodied,
impressively long finish. This wine may close down somewhat, given the
moderate tannins, but it seems relatively accessible despite being a 2010.
Anticipated maturity: 2018-2035.”
$49.99
750ml [333145]
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