DEVAUX 02 BT D CUVEE
As most of our readers know, the 1996 Devaux Cuvée D was our top-ranked Champagne of 2011. We sold all 300 bottles of it in little more than a week, much to the chagrin of many of our customers. Happily, we can now offer for your consideration Devaux's 2002 Cuvée D, which we believe is a most worthy successor to the dearly departed 1996. As we said last December, Devaux has come to be regarded not only as the Aube's (Champagne's southern sector) flagship firm, but also as one of the most dynamic, quality oriented Champagne houses in the entire region. The firm, which is a cooperative association of more than 900 growers, has the luxury to be very fussy about the grapes that go into this, their top Champagne. While 1996 and 2002 are unassailably classic Champagne vintages, they express themselves quite differently. The 1996s were known for their initial reticence whereas the 2002s have always been quite forthright and showy. So though six years younger, this 2002 is every bit as detailed and evolved as its predecessor and even displays a bit more broadness and creaminess on the palate. This straw-gold 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay opens with a panoply of orchard fruit, pâtisserie and wild honey aromas. A gentle perlage works to enhance this Brut's luxurious mouthfeel. Mouth-watering impressions of peaches, candied fruits and brioche lead the flavor attack while notions of nougat, red apples and baking spices rise up in its long, caressing finish. This is a singularly sumptuous, deftly crafted Champagne that should dazzle both the Champagne connoisseur and novice alike.
