AGRAPART 04 EXTRA BRUT L'AVIZOISE
WINE ADVOCATE 93 POINTS - "The 2004 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru L’Avizoise is another explosive, full-bodied wine bursting at the seams with fruit. This, too, shows wonderful shades of dimension in a style that deftly balances exuberance with cool, reserved minerality. Agrapart crafts the Avizoise from two parcels of 50-year-old vines in the lieu-dits of Les Robarts and La Voie d’Epernay. Fermentation took place in neutral oak barrels and dosage was 5 grams per liter. Disgorged: January, 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020."Rating: ** The chalky-clay soils of the Avize hillside give this wine a certain body and breadth, as well as a darkly spicy minerality that drives the flavors on the palate. Part of that breadth, though, could also be coming from the wine’s lees-aging on cork instead of capsule, as it also demonstrates toasty, mocha-like notes that are often common to cork-aged champagnes. This shows a greater subtlety and nuance than the Minéral does, even if it hasn’t got quite the same piercing clarity of expression, and it’s more reserved at the moment as well, needing some time in the cellar to bring out its full range of flavor. The finish is outstanding, persisting with confident, baritone presence. Last tasted: 10/10. -Peter Leim
