A.J. ADAM 10 DHRON HOF KABINET
WINE ADVOCATE 92 POINTSAdam’s 2010 Dhronhofberger Riesling Kabinett was plagued on the occasion of my tasting it with yeasty, cheesy overtones such as often afflict young, fructose-rich Mosel Rieslings. But things picked up – a lot – from there on! First, luscious, infectiously juicy evocations of apple, quince, honeydew melon, and grapefruit that flood the palate eventually work their way back into the nose as the wine takes on air. What’s more, the sense of inner-mouth perfume by way of honeysuckle and apple blossom is utterly beguiling, and perfectly complements the wine’s sense of buoyancy. Harvested at 88 Oechsle and possessed of 8% alcohol, this is a genuine Kabinett
This has the purest fragrance of old-school Mosel Riesling. It’s why we love it with a heart almost childlike, one we hardly know we own. This is sleeker than most recent vintages – a “mere” 87° with 10.8g acidity, which is not unnoticeable, but the slightly arch charm is beautiful for its angularity, and the wine shows absurd length.
